This is old news, but in case you haven’t heard…

Wolf Appliance Recalls Gas Ranges Due to Burn Hazard WASHINGTON, D.C.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of Product: Wolf Appliance Gas Ranges Units: About 24,000 Manufacturer: Wolf Appliance Inc., of Madison, Wis. Hazard: Delayed ignition of gas in the 18-inch oven can cause a flash of flames to be projected at a consumer when the range door is opened, posing a burn hazard to consumers. Incidents/Injuries: Wolf has received 97 reports of units experiencing delayed ignition, including 15 minor burns. There have been no reports of fires or property damage.

Description: This recall involves the following Wolf Appliance 48-Inch gas ranges with model numbers: P48, PS48 and R48. The gas ranges are stainless steel with a double oven. A “Wolf” appliance logo is on the front of the larger oven door. Sold at: Home builders and appliance stores nationwide from January 1998 through June 2008 for between $5,000 and $9,000. Manufactured in: United States Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled gas range 18-inch oven and contact the manufacturer to schedule a free, in-home repair. The large oven and all cooktop burners are not affected and may be used. Consumer Contact: For more information, consumers can contact Wolf Appliance toll-free at (866) 643-6408 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. CT Monday through Friday or visit the firm’s Web site at http://www.wolfappliance.com/recall.aspx

Start with the simple stuff first (and, in this case, the easiest): the water supply tube that runs inside the door. This has been a common problem with these units. So, how do you check a water tube that’s inside the door? Well, you don’t. Just follow this sage advice from the talented and lovely Sublime Master of Appliantology Pegi:

Most likely the water line is frozen inside of the door…can turn up the temp in the freezer to see if it thaws in a couple of days, turn on the disp light and leave it on, will thaw the line and keep it thawed, can order and install a heater kit to thaw the line and keep it thawed, or you can replace the whole door if this line is in fact frozen….or the water tank is frozen in the food side, or the fill valve went bad on the water thru the door side…switch went bad in the dispensor for the water side,…..lots of reasons….my bet is on a frozen water line…

If’n that don’t git it fer ya, come see us in the Samurai School of Appliantology. Start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum and we’ll dazzle you with some other tricks.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

This is one of the simplest katas in the ancient martial art of Fixite Do. All is revealed in this parchment of Appliantology scriptures.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

The lower arm is held in place by a large diameter plastic furled nut right in the middle of the lower arm, as shown below. (There’s a large hole in the middle of this nut.) Undo that and the whole lower arm assembly will come out. This exposes the torx bolts that you need to undo to get to the mesh filter. There may be some minor variations among model numbers on this procedure which are explained in this repair forum topic. Piece of pie, tovarish!

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

And now, for all you fixit freaks out there who surf into sites like this one just ‘cuz you like to see how stuff gets fixed, I present the Samurai Fixit Cam for your viewing pleasure. When you mouse over the player, you’ll see little arrows on each side of the screen. Click either one to go to another repair video. Enjoy!

This problem is a good illustration of how there’s just no substitute for actual hand-to-hand combat with broken appliances. Here’s an excerpt from the service manual on this fault code:

EXPLANATION AND RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE
F21 LONG DRAIN

If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes the water valves turn off.
NOTES:After 4 minutes the “Sd” error will be displayed, then
4 minutes later the “F/21” error code will be displayed. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL two times to clear the display.

Possible Causes/Procedure
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or
kinked.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure
the pump is running.
4. Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. If the above does not correct the problem, go to step 7.
7. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
8. Replace the pump.

I’ve worked on dozens of these washers and have only found the above service manual solution to apply once or twice. The vast majority of the time, I’d arrive and all the washer would do is drain and flash F-21 in the display. I couldn’t even get the control board to go into diagnostic mode.

Using my keen Samurai Insight®, I unplugged the washer and removed the molex connector from the water level switch (also called a pressure switch). To get to it, remove the top panel by taking out the three screws in the back of the washer. The pressure switch is right there on top, as seen in the picture below:

Anyway, I plugged the washer back in and, lo!, the washer did enter diagnostic mode and the people did sing and the Lord did grin. And there was much rejoicing. Especially after I replaced the water level switch whereupon appliantological harmony was restored.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

This nugget of Appliantological wisdom applies to the Whirlpool-built dryers with the “Even Heat” control board, also sold under the Kenwhore label. The typical problem description runs thusly:

My dryer runs for about two minutes and then shuts down. The timer continues to run down to the end but but it does it really fast. For example, 70 minutes will run down to the OFF position in five minutes. I checked the vent and its clear. I replaced the timer and I still have the same problem. Help!

Ahh, grasshoppah, this ain’t yo pappy’s timer. In yo pappy’s dryer timer, there was a little motor that got 120vac and advanced the timer cycles in a steady, uniform manner. But that ain’t the case with this bad boy, nawsir.

Y’see, Hoss, in this dryer, with all its over-blown electronical garbage, we have what’s called a step timer.

“What’s a step timer, o mighty and omniscient Samurai?” Well, no one knows. But I can tell you a little about how it works.

Like I already said, conventional timers are controlled by the little motor built into the timer which acts just like a clock. Things just plod along, it runs the cycle for the time indicated on the dial and that’s pretty much it.

The step timer in this dryer is controlled by the electronic control board, not the timer motor. So the board makes decisions about when to send power to the timer and for how long. It does this in steps so as to advance the dial and switch contacts as needed. Once the board decides that the clothes are dry enough, it sends steady power to the timer to rapidly advance it to the OFF position. Now we come full circle to the original complaint: dryer shutting off prematurely and rapidly advancing the timer to OFF.

Let’s connect the dots: the rapid advance seen in the timer is a result of the control board thinking the cycle is done (when, in fact, it ain’t).

“Aha!” you exclaim triumphantly, “it’s a bad control board!” You then run out, skipping and frolicking, to buy a new control board, slap that sucker in the dryer, start a cycle and… same problem. And you’re out a Benjamin. Now, siddown and keep reading.

Maybe the board thinks the clothes are dry because one of the components it relies on for “feeling” the clothes is broken. Fer ezzample, the board thinks the clothes are dry when the sensor bars do not short to ground (as it would if the clothes were wet) or if the thermistor stays hot (since the thermistor is cooled down by wet clothes and heats up when the clothes are dry). Experience in the field is that the thermistor is the more common problem so try replacing it first. And the good news is that they cost waaay less than a control board. Ya hey, come git you one.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

A common complaint about front loading washers is mildew odor, or Das Schmeel. We professional appliantolgists refer to this condition as Funk from Within Syndrome (FFWS). So, here are some causative factors and other Fun Facts to Know and Tell (FFTKAT) about FFWS:

1. Using conventional detergent instead High Efficiency (HE) detergent.

Why would someone spend the extra money to buy an expensive front loading washer and then try to pinch pennies using conventional detergent? Even though you and I immediately recognize this as the penny-wise, dollar-moron type thinking so in vogue among the Great Unwashed, this is exactly what many people do. I dunno, I reckon they think they’re being clever and wise by disregarding the manufacturer’s explicit instructions about this. Open your Appliantology Hymnal to the Book of Washers and sing along with me now:

But the truth is that the ichiban killer of drum bearings in any front-loading washer is non-HE detergent. HE: High Efficiency. And no, using a smaller quantity of conventional detergent is not the same as using HE detergent, as explained below.

Y’see, HE detergent is not simply a concentrated formulation of the regular stuff. Since front loaders use much less water than top loaders (about 12 gallons per wash load vs. about 56 gallons in a conventional top-loader), front-loaders require a detergent with a whole different chemistry. So let’s answer some common questions and dispel common myths about front-loaders and HE detergents. [read more]

Ahh, nothing like a good, rousing hymn to really get me going on my soapbox (I know, I know, but I just couldn’t resist).

So, using the wrong kind of detergent in your fancy front loader is a great way to funkify your washer and impart some o’ dat funk onto your clothes. And it accelerates the mechanical deterioration of your washer. Smooth move, Ex Lax!

2. Using too much fabric softener and/or detergent.

Liquid fabric softener does not break down very well in cold water and the residue collects on the outer tub and basket along with the lint left from the wash. We professional appliantologists refer to this accumulated grunge as Gookus (that’s a professional term, please don’t use it at home as I cannot be responsible for your safety). Once formed, this gookus collects ever more additional soap, dirt, grease, human waste, mites, flea doo-doo, parasites… and then some really bad stuff.

As it turns out, this gookus makes a perfect substrate for microbial life forms. Over some time– not very much time in warmer climates– those little bacterial colonies build up lots of microbial sewage, just like we do (bacteria are kinda like people that way) until one day you open the door to the washer and exclaim, “Lord, he stinketh!”

Bonus FFTKAT: Using too much fabric softener will waterproof your clothes. Pop Quiz: How clean do you think your clothes will get if they repel water inside the washing machine?

3. Doing all your wash loads in cold water only.

Detergents don’t dissolve as well in cold water. As a result, cold water washes leave behind more gookus. So… do an occasional wash in hot water. OK, maybe more than occasional. Like, I hope you at least wash your skivvies in hot water. Oy!

4. Leaving clothes in the washer at the end of the cycle.

Front loaders don’t have as much access to open air as top load machines. Consequently, leaving clothes in the washer for more than eight hours will increase mold and mildew build up. Think warm, dark, moist and you’ll get inside the brain of a mold spore. Visualize the spore; BE the spore!

:::

Now that we have a vast and awesome under-stinking-standing of FFWS, I’ll offer some of the preferred Samurai-Approved Maneuvers for Front-Loader Olfactory Bliss (SAMFOB). These sacred techniques are three ancient Hot Bath Washer Purification Rituals (HBWPR) referred to as Ichi, Ni, and San:

1. Ichi: Add one additional gallon of hot water to the unit before sending it into a hot wash. This will raise the water level high enough to remove the Gookus Hiding Behind the Basket (GHBB).

2. Ni: Same as Ichi, but with bleach added to all dispensers. Clean the fabric softener cup with a rag first (bleach will not break up fabric softener since it is introduced in the rinse cycle with the fabric softener).

3. San: Same as Ichi and San but with a cap full of pine cleaner added to the wash water (NOT the dispenser). Add some old rags (they don`t need to be dirty) and select the extra rinse cycle. The wash action will help remove the accumulated gookus from the components

Once again, make sure you’re only using high efficiency (HE) detergents in your front loader. See this page for the gory details on why dis be.

And here’s a bonus tip from a loyal reader of these hallowed pages:

Jo, moderate fix-it-myselfer, maximum beer drinker, wrote:

If it please the Samurai, a great way to keep front load washers smelling sweet and also clean is to add up to one cup of vineagar every couple of loads. Economical, and a nice mild disinfectant as well. Can be added during wash cycle, or rinse if you don’t mind a mild vineagar smell.

Awwite, go whup up on some stanky!

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

If you have one of the Whirlpool-built dishwashers (also applies to Kitchenaids and some Kenmores) with the dinky wash motors, then one day, maybe someday very soon, you’ll need to replace the wash motor assembly. Here’re some resources that’ll hepya:

• Step-by-Step Instructions on Replacing the Wash Motor Assembly
• Anatomy of a Whirlpool-Kitchenaid-Kenmore Dishwasher
• Installation Tips for Replacing the Wash Motor Assembly

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

This Tip ‘O Da Day applies to newer KitchenAid dishwashers with model numbers like KUDI02FR.

The flashing Lock light problem is caused by a stuck key on the touchpanel console.

If the control board detects that a key is stuck in the “mashed-in” position, then the dishwasher will suspend operation and maddeningly flash the light for that key until the condition is fixed. If a key without a light is stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the Lock light.

The cure is to replace the touchpanel console. Easy job and, conveniently, here’re the part links. Click it to git it, Hoss:

Black Console

White Console

Stainless Console

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

1. Keep your big stuff at the sides and back, so that they don’t hog all the water and detergent and keep it from reaching the other dishes. This will also keep them from blocking the detergent door.

2. Load the grungy side of the dishes toward the center so they get blasted more directly by the spray arms.

3. Use the top rack for plastic and delicate items, like beer steins and wine glasses.

4. Place glasses upside down on prongs to prevent breakage… and profuse adult language once discovered.

5. Silverware goes in handles down except for knives– load them handles up so you don’t slice your hand open when you pull ‘em out. If your dishwasher has a big open basket, mix spoons, forks, and knives so they don’t stick together.

6. If some of your dishes have baked-on food, set ‘em in the rack facedown and toward the sprayer in the bottom rack so they can get blasted clean.

For more details on how to load a dishwasher, including water hardness issues, download this file.

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums are where you can get interactive help with your appliance problem. I get lots of emails from folks who are new to compooters and/or new to online forums and can’t figger out how to get help in the repair forum. Since he is compassionate and of great gootness, the Samurai made a short video for his precious grasshoppers on how to get started using this forum. It includes how to register and how to post a question.

To watch the video, download it from the link below:

http://www.mediafire.com/?h3pn9eo1z3z

It’s less than 10 minutes long and it’s full screen so you can easily see what’s going on. You’ll need Quicktime to view it, which you can download for FREE ratcheer.

Gas ranges use one of two types of ignition systems for the oven: pilot flame ignition or hot surface. You can read about each kind and how they work in this scroll from the Appliantology scriptures. Here’s an excerpt:

Within the the world of pilot ignition ovens, two types of pilot flame systems are used:

1. the pilot flame is either always on (called a “standing pilot”) or

2. a spark lights up the pilot flame when you turn on the oven (called a “spark-assisted pilot”).

Today, I’m gonna ’splain how to replace the thermostat in the first type of pilot ignition oven listed above, the standing pilot ignition.

Lots of these old gas ranges are still out there in use today. I actually prefer these ranges to the newfangled electronified junk they’re making these days. The other distinguishing characteristic of this type of range is that it requires zero electricity to operate. No electrical outlet is required because there’s nothing electric on this range. That makes this type of range a popular choice for homes (and camps) which aren’t connected to the power grid. In fact, the pictures in this article were taken during a repair I did for some friends of ours in Vermont who live off-grid.

This article deals with replacing the thermostat in a standing pilot range. One of the symptoms that the thermostat is bad is that the oven won’t fire up but the stove burners still work. So, does this mean that the thermostat is the only thing that can cause the oven to quit firing up? Nyet, tovarish. You may have a bad gas valve or a fouled pilot assembly. So, how do you verify that the thermostat is the problem? I refer you, once again, to my timeless tome on this topic. Here’s another excerpt from that seminal work:

But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat. This is important to know because it leads to a couple of fine diagnostic points:

• If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn’t shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
• If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It’s also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.

Now, slowly re-read the pearls above several dozen times and savor them like fine saké. It helps to also burn incense and chant “Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man” at least 100 times while meditating on this arcane wisdom.

Once you’re posilootely, absotively certain that the thermostat is the bad actor here, then you may proceed with the pictorial guide that tip-toes you ever-so-gently through the tulips of this repair. And you remember the deal with thumbnail pics, da? That’s right, grasshoppah: you gotta click ‘em to see the larger picture with the enlightening annotations.

And if you need to buy a new thermostat for your range, type your model number into the parts search box below and you you can buy it right there. It may give you a warm, fuzzy feeling in your navel to know that when you purchase parts through the links at my website and repair forum, it lets me write how-to articles like this one and save you wads of cash on service calls. Domo!

OK, when you’re ready, grab ‘hold of those two large lumps at the base of your spine and let’s romp…

On this range, the thermostat is located in the middle of the control panel. You can access it by removing the grills and lifting the hood, as shown here.

The thermostat temperature sensing bulb is connected to the thermostat via a copper capillary tube. This tube is bonded with the thermostat body at the factory and pressure charged with a gas that expands in response to the temperature. OK, you can uncross your eyes now ‘cuz that’s about as techie as I’m gonna git in the article. The take-away point is that you cannot replace the thermostat separately from the sensing bulb and the new thermostat comes with a factory-fitted sensing bulb.

Notice how the thermostat capillary tube is routed through the top of the range and into the oven and the bulb is mounted on the side of the range. You’ll copy this when you install the new one.

When working on an electric appliance, the first thing you do is unplug it before disassembling it. Similarly, when working on a gas appliance, you need to shut off the gas supply before taking it apart. In a properly installed gas range, the shutoff valve is located behind the range, as shown here. Note that the gas supply line here is copper. This is an older installation where this was the norm. Nowadays, the preferred practice is to use steel flex tube.

Shown here I’m starting the disassembly. The burners are removed and the two aluminum gas tubes are unscrewed from the back of the thermostat body.

To remove the thermostat body from the gas manifold, you’ll need to remove its mounting bolts. In this case, the mounting bolts are located underneath the thermostat. A piece of gasket material between the thermostat body and the manifold tube creates a gas-tight fit. Remember: any connection that passes gas () must be leak-checked when you’re finished.

Here’s the manifold with the old thermostat removed. The gasket material that I mentioned above is stuck to the underside of the old thermostat. The new thermostat kits usually come with a new gasket. That’s about it for the thermostat.

While we have this beast torn apart, let’s feast our bloodshot squinties on the gas valve as an enriching excercise. Here it be. Notice that it has its very own capillary tube and bulb. Wassup wit dat, yo? That’s the flame sensing bulb. It’s a safety feature that prevents the gas valve from opening (and letting gas through) if there’s no flame present. In other words, that bulb has to sense a flame before the gas valve can open. Does this sound like diagnostically useful information? Ya sure, ya betcha! Tuck that away and ponder it during your next morning constitutional.

And here’s a closeup of the pilot assembly itself. This can be another source of problems, as mentioned in my prolegomena comments.

On the back side of the pilot assembly is a plug with a small, precision drilled hole in the middle of it. If this hole gets dirty or partially clogged, which it will on occasion, then the pilot flame will not put out enough heat to open the gas valve.

If the pilot assembly seems to be in good shape otherwise, you can simply clean out this orifice with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air (about 50 psig will do it). Use an air nozzle with a rubber tip so can get a good seal when you squirt compressed air through it.

OTOH, if the pilot assembly looks too boogared up to use any longer, then just replace it.

Here’s the pilot assembly reinstalled and re-connected to its gas supply tube.

Here I’m checking my work by firing up the oven to make sure it fires the burner tube. This is an exciting action shot showing the pilot assembly in the ready position, just waiting for the oven thermostat to be turned on.

Needless to say, we had normal ignition and all systems were go. The Samurai whupped-up on another insolent appliance and restored its design function. Now, go and do likewise.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Before you even think about undertaking this repair, you’ll want to read this excerpt from The Complete DIY Refrigerator Repair Reference:

If you’ve confirmed a Freon leak and you think you have the huevos to do the sealed system work yourself, you absolutely need this refrigeration service training DVD from Electrolux. (The compressor, its associated tubing, the evaporator, the condenser, and the Freon charge in the tubing are collectively referred to as the “sealed system.”) It takes you through all the procedures you’ll need to master in order to do your own sealed system work. If you have an older refrigerator, you may need to convert from R-12 to R134a.

“But, Samurai, shouldn’t we get an EPA license to buy the Freon so that we can be obedient to the gubmint and do everything they tell us to do?”

Ahh, Grasshoppah, your bootlicking question reminds me of a story… what was it?… ah yes, The Story of O.

For written sealed system service procedures and a list of tools you’ll need, download this reference.

And this topic in the Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum has a good discussion about recharging tips.

Note that the pictures included in this post are just thumbnail pics. Pop quiz: What are “thumbnail pics”? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Thumbnails are reduced-size versions of a full-scale picture. To see the full-size version, along with the illuminating annotations, click the thumbnails.

Armed with this essential background information, you’re ready to strut through a pictorial guide. Photos courtesy of my comrade-in-arms and brother-in-the-Craft, Jedi Appliance Guy.

This is a typical location for a pinhole leak in the evaporator. Can be very hard to spot visually; they’re usually located using a freon sniffer or bubble solution.

Once the leak is located, then you apply “The Patch.”

And here’s the special patch goo that you use. This is a specialty item that you won’t find at your neighborhood hardware store. But I just happen to have an extra tube that I can spare– come git you one.

Here’s a look at some of the special toys, er, I mean, tools that you’ll need to do refrigeration sealed system work.

After the leak is patched, you have to pull a deep vacuum on the sealed system to remove as much water vapor as possible. If you don’t, you could clog the filter-dryer, create ice plugs at the junction where the capillary tube enters the evaporator, and all kinda other bad stuff that results in warm beer.

Check the current draw on the compressor as the system is recharging. The current draw should increase as more refrigerant is added to the system. If not, well, something ain’t right. Could be another leak or a bad compressor. Either way, there’s trouble in Paradise (or, as we professional appliantologists like to say, “Vees badden”… that’s a little German lingo fer ya).

Here’s a closer look at the manifold gauge set that’s part of every refrigeration tech’s bag o’ tricks. In addition to recharging the sealed system, manifold gauges are essential for diagnosing sealed system problems. By measuring the high side and low side pressures, the highly-skilled yet woefully-underpaid appliantologist can draw various diagnostically-useful conclusions about what’s wrong with the refrigeration system.

After the system is recharged, we run it and measure freezer temperature. Lookin’ good here. It’s Miller Time!

If you need a more detailed tutorial specifically on repairing and replacing refrigerator evaporators, download this file.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Jerry wrote:

We added a fourth story to our house, which is attached on both sides. There is a bathroom there with a washer and a gas dryer. The contractor wants to vent it into a “wet box.” It’s some sort of venting kit. The architect says it should be vented up through the roof. The contractor says you can’t vent a gas dryer up. What’s the best way to vent this gas dryer?

When your contractor says, “you can’t vent a gas dryer up,” he’s implying that the venting requirements for a gas dryer are somehow different than those for an electric dryer. This is false. All dryers, gas or electric, have the same venting requirements, details of which are discussed in this post.

In general, all dryers should be vented completely outside the building but especially gas dryers because of the poisonous by-products of combustion, notably the silent killer, carbon monoxide.

When your contractor says that “you can’t vent a gas dryer up,” what he’s really saying is, “Aww, geeze, I don’t wanna get up on the roof and drill a hole for a stinking dryer vent. I just wanna finish the job and go to the next one because I’m running behind schedule.”

I’d love to hear your contractor’s tortured reasoning for saying, “you can’t vent a gas dryer up” just so I could watch him squirm while his nose grows about two feet long. There is no reason whatsoever that any dryer exhaust, gas or electric, can’t be vented straight up through the roof… provided it’s done correctly, which I’ll explain in minute.

First, let’s take a moment and meditate on why we should even bother to properly exhaust dryers. And let’s not just take my word for it, either. According to Whirlpool, a company that manufactures more dryers than anyone else on the planet, there are at least four compelling reasons to exhaust a dryer through a properly configured vent that removes the dryer exhaust completely from the building:

And for gas dryers, we have the additional reason mentioned above: to keep from waking up and finding yourself dead.

As for venting a dryer through a roof, as your architect wisely suggested, this is a perfectly legitimate configuration and, as in your case, may be the only practical way to exhaust a dryer to the outside. Once again, we turn to the Appliantology scriptures on this subject. Please open your dryer venting hymnal to the Book of Whirlpool, song 10… no, 11 (it’s one bettah) and sing along with me:

Now go sing your admonishments to your contractor for talking out of his derrière. And give your architect a kiss from me (if she’s cute) or a manly nod of the head (if he’s not).

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.