Thanks

1. Bad air flow. This can be caused by vents that are too long, too many bends or turns, kinked, or the vent hood outside is blocked.

2. grounded heating element making the heating element stay on when the timer is not on the Off position.

If your guy didn’t check these things out, then you are being ripped off by a parts changing monkey.

I had a intermittently dim display clock on a JennAir W256B. I recapped the ERC board (Y04100264) with high temp capacitors (found some 135 C caps!) but the problem wasn’t fixed. I tracked it down to a bad solder joint on the transformer/relay board (Y04100260) in the back of the oven. The transformer on this oven provides 21 VAC and 4 VAC to the ERC board. Resistance of the 4 VAC was about 1.1 and the 21 VAC was about 5.0. Flexing the board and the 4 VAC would open circuit. I refluxed all the solder joints on the board and the oven now works properly, with beefier capacitors!

As you state, the heat working on the capacitors will eventually get them to dry out and fail. Likewise, after 20 years of use, the solder develops micro-fractures and fails.

Repair cost was still $10. ;^)

I realized that I had originally posted all of this info years ago and wanted to offer up a follow up, long-term (6 year) report for those that may be interested.

Since we originally bought the washer, we moved across the country. I was really happy that I had held on to the foam block that prevents the motor from moving around in transit. It arrived with no issues whatsoever.

It has never let us down and has received no maintenance at all. I plan to replace the belt and grease the bearings soon as a preventive measure (anyone else done this before? Please share anything that you learned). We are a family of 4 (2 adults and 2 boys 13 & 10) and we use it constantly.

The only small down-side (as mentioned before) is when loading non-clothing items (pillows, blankets, quilts, rugs, sleeping bags, etc.). You must load them in a balanced way – meaning that if you put in a pillow, you must put another pillow across from it in the basket. If it’s a quilt or rug, put it in a circle so the load is balanced. If you don’t, you will hear a banging as it goes in to its first spin cycle.

The other possible down-side (if you’re not careful) is that small items (about 1″ or less) can fall down between the top of the washer and the basket. The basket is surrounded by a plastic bin with a drain in the bottom. If that happens, it can be tricky to fish it out. This has only happened to us once, but it meant that we had to fish the item out before we could run a load because it could have blocked the drain hole.

Looking back, I feel that we made the right decision on this purchase and hope to have it for much longer. I’ll try to remember to re-post in the future.

John

the unit is an integrated unit ie the the panel is in the top inside of the door – any one know how to get the the control module that controls the heater?

Thanks

FYI, a delta of 86 deg Fahrenheit would indicate a microwave oven outputting 1668 watts of cooking power for 1 liter of water.

Frank

2.) The Problem:
7/1/2011 It started getting the F35 error.

3.) The Troubleshooting:
I was able to open the top of the washer and go through some of the troubleshooting that I saw online (disconnecting the hose, blowing back into the washer) which seemed to fix it for about 10 loads but then again it started SUDS / F35 non-stop. I called a local repair service and found that I needed the “analog water pressure level sensor” which apparently had been discontinued by Whirlpool and replaced with a re-engineered part.

4.) The Part needed out of stock and backordered for months:
Old Part: W10156252
New Part: W10415587

The local repair service said that the part was on national backorder and according to their main supplier it had been so for 2 months. The new shipment of these parts was supposed to arrive 7/18/2011. On 7/18/2011 nobody called me to tell me whether or not they were in, so I called Whirlpool and escalated the issue with them.

5.) The call to Whirlpool:
First I spoke with Emma, she confirmed the part was now on a preliminary delivery date of 7/29/11. I shared my frustrations and she transferred me to a “specialist”, who, spoke as if she was chewing her own face – her name was “Candy” from Tennessee. I knew that I wasn’t going to get anywhere with her so I escalated to her manager “Austin”. “Austin” tried or said he tried to find the part from a couple of sources but couldn’t. He said:

“Sir, in this case what we need to do is get this to our Product Review Board who may offer you a replacement unit. They will call you within 24 hours”.

6.) The call from the Whirlpool Product Review Board:
The next day 7/19/2010 a woman named Tihate called me and said that I qualified for a new replacement machine. She went on to explain that it was a newer model but would still fit on my pedestals that I purchased and would be white like my old model.

6a.) One Small Thing:
Tihate added that there would be a small fee for the new washer of $578.57

7.) The final resolution.
I politely declined her offer. I will now wait for the part, fix the washer and sell it along with every Whirlpool, GE and Maytag appliance in my home.

My new LG washing machine will be here tomorrow, with a standard 10 year warranty which costs about $150 more than the replacement from Whirlpool.

P.S.
Tihate’s direct number is 1-866-640-7146 ext 6496