Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man: Appliance Repair Wisdom for the Ages

New RSS Feed Address

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 09 Mar 2006 14:16:00 +0000

Way back in October, when I switched my website from Blogger to WordPress, the address for the RSS feed changed, too. Well, I'm embarrased to admit that I'm just now realized this and so I'm updating the link for the current RSS feed for my site. Ok, here it is, wait for it... New RSS Feed ! Please update your RSS readers and catch up on all the latest and greatest pearls of appliance wisdom at Fixitnow.com. Thanks!

The Story of "O!" (that being our painful exclamation as we get screwed again and again by Big Gubmint and Big Corporations)

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sat, 29 Oct 2005 21:50:00 +0000

Awwite all you cool grasshoppers, go grab you a beer and the Samurai'll tell you a story.

Once upon a time, in a place that was called the "land of the free," there was a big ol' company called Dupont. Now, Dupont made a thang that we old timers held near and dear to our hearts and that was R-12, a refrigerant used in just about every type of refrigerator ever made, including beer coolers. But Dupont had a problem: their patent on R-12 was about to expire and everyone else and their momma was gonna start making it, too. Well, it don't take a rocket scientist, like yours truly, to figger out that once this happened, the price of R-12 was gonna take a nose dive.

Now, Dupont, being a company with lots of money to throw around, paid off a bunch of fancy-pants scientists and engineers at these high-dollar universities to show that R-12 was reeeel bad and needed to be banned. So these fancy-pants university types cooked up some numbers showing how all them nasty little molecules in R-12 was eatin' up the orzos in the atmosphere...er somethin' like that.

Anyway, Dupont goes and presents all these high falootin' studies to one of the fourth branches of the gubmint, the EPA. The EPA said, "Hmmm, we can't be eatin' up all them little orzos like that there. Gubmint has to do something about that!" So they came out with a big ol' riot act of new regamalations where they said everyone what works on beer coolers has to have a new-fangled recovery unit to catch all them bad molecules.

Well, I didn't know no better and besides, I didn't wanna hurt them little orzos 'cuz, heck, they ain't never done nothin' to me. So I lined up with all the other suckers, er, I mean, tradesmen and plunked down a bunch of money for a fancy new recovery unit.

Funny thang happened though. When the EPA got into the bidness of regamalating refrigerants, their prices all went sky high. So the cost to replace the compressor on your average beer fridge went from $150 to, oh, say $400, once you figger in the higher refrigerant cost and a refrigerant recovery charge. Well, at that price, people were just hauling their old fridges off to the landfill and buying new ones. Lots of good fridges piling up in landfills today. But, hey, the gubmint knows what's best 'cuz they here to help!

Meanwhile, Dupont is back in bidness, happily raking in the big bucks selling it's new line of R-12 replacement refrigerants. Ain't gubmint great? I think everybody awwta own one!

And so the gubmint and the big shot corporations who benefit from their regamalations all lived happily ever after.

The End

I can tell you that my recovery unit makes a reeel spiffy footstool in my workshop 'cuz that's all I ever use it for. Never even used it once. Wanna buy one cheap?

Frigidaire (or 417 Kenmore) Front Load Washer Leaking from the Bottom; washer leak; washer repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sat, 29 Oct 2005 05:24:00 +0000

Sue wrote:

We saw what you said about a Leak from a Frigidaire (Kenmore 417.xxxxx) Front Loading Washer. It appears the door is holding water. There is a slow trickle of water leaking out. Would this more likely be the door seal boot?

THANK YOU!!!!

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In vexing times like these, I turn my furrowed brow to Samurai's 12 Laws of Appliance Repair. In accordance with the 7th Law, "All leaks are visual." To aid your visualizations, click the washer breakdown diagram shown here for an interactive tour of the very bowels of your washer. Go ahead, I'll wait ...

Back so soon? Ok, with that crash course in washer anatomy, let's light this candle with the simple stuff, first.

We'll start behind the washer... oh, cut it out! ... where the two water fill hoses connect. They'll connect from the shutoff valves at the wall to the water inlet valve on the back of the washer. Lay some heavy-powered eyeball action, aided by the brilliant illumination from the halogen search beam you're using, on both ends of those fill hoses looking for any sign of water. And, by the way, if your fill hoses look like this, well, you and ol' Brother Noah 'bout to have something in common... 'cept he had forewarning; but now you do, too!

Awwite, ever-thang looks good with the fill hoses, so now we pop that front kick plate, like ahso. We're looking for evidence of leaking from either the tub boot or from the tub gasket. Here's a thought question: since the tub boot is right up front, and if it were leaking, where would we see signs of leaking? Ooo, you're good! If your tub boot is leaking, this excerpt from the service manual should hepya replace it.

Ok, here's a tougher one: given that the tub gasket goes all the way around the tub, where would you expect its characteristic leak pattern to be? That's a little less obvious, but this post explains what to look for and a minimally-invasive procedure that may fix it.

Finally, I have also seen, on rare occasions, where a bra wire pierced the pump suction boot and created a leak.

Smile! It's a Friggidaire! (yes, I meant to spell it that way)

How to Replace the Water Inlet Valve on Most Washers; Maytag, Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Roper, Kenmore, Estate, GE, Hotpoint, Frigidaire

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sat, 29 Oct 2005 01:17:00 +0000

A handy compilation of water inlet valve replacement procedures from our friends at RepairClinic. Tear 'em up, Hoss!

Maytag, Top Loader
� Remove the screw holding the inlet valve mounting plate to the washer.
� Remove the two screws holding the valve to the mounting plate.
� Lift the plate up slightly and pull it out of the washer.
� Label the wires and remove them.
� Disconnect the water feed tube from the valve.
� Install the new valve.
� Flush out the water fill hoses.
� Reassemble in reverse.
� Turn on the water supply valves.
� Check for and correct any leaks.
� Restore power and test operation.

Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, after 1985
� The valve will be mounted to the back of the washer with two screws. However, you must remove the valve from inside the washing machine, and this requires you remove the entire washer cabinet, which consists of the top, front and sides.
� Remove the two screws in the lower corners of the control panel.
� Lift the control panel up high enough so it stays up and back.
� Disconnect the wire harness connector.
� Using a flathead screwdriver, snap out the two gold-colored spring clips at the top of the cabinet on the left and right sides.
� The cabinet will now lift up at the back. Pull the cabinet up 10-12 inches and then slide it forward 2 inches.
� Remove the cabinet completely and set it aside.
� The valve will be on the right side of the washer at the back. It�s the device to which the water fill hoses are attached.
� Label the wires from the valve and remove them.
� Remove the water feed tube(s) from the valve.
� Remove the screws holding the valve to the back panel.
� Install the new valve in the reverse order.
� Reinstall the cabinet. (Note: As you follow this procedure, do not force the cabinet in any way. When done properly, the cabinet will go back together very smoothly.) First, tilt the cabinet toward you 10-12 inches while you �walk� the cabinet back onto the lower frame of the washer. (This will be easier if you have the washer lid open so you can see inside the cabinet at the same time.) The front edge of the cabinet slides underneath the base frame, and the sides of the cabinet rest on top of the base frame.
� When the cabinet is resting on the frame squarely, check to be sure the back of the washer is aligned with the cabinet. There are two plastic strips attached to the back of the washer that must line up with the sides of the cabinet as you set the cabinet down.
� Reinstall the two spring clips at the top.
� Reattach the wire harness connector.
� Rotate the control panel back down and reinstall the two screws.
� Flush out the water fill hoses.
� Reattach the water lines.
� Turn on the water.
� Check for and correct any leaks.
� Restore power and test.

GE, Hotpoint, (valve on middle right side of washer)
� The water inlet valve is attached to a metal plate, which is attached to the washer.
Remove the screws holding the metal plate to the washer.
� Remove the screws holding the inlet valve to the metal plate.
� Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
� Remove the water feed tube from the valve.
� Install the new valve.
� Flush out the water fill hoses.
� Reassemble in reverse.
� Turn on the water supply valves.
� Check for and correct any leaks.
� Restore power and test operation.

GE, Hotpoint, (valve inside upper control panel)
� Open the main control panel by removing two screws.
� Remove the two screws holding the valve down.
� Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
� Disconnect the water feed tube.
� Install the new valve.
� Flush out the water fill hoses.
� Reassemble in reverse.
� Turn on the water supply valves.
� Check for and correct any leaks.
� Restore power and test operation.

Frigidaire, Top Loader - Valve Inside Upper Control Panel
� Open the main control panel by removing two screws.
� Remove the two screws holding the valve down.
� Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
� Disconnect the water feed tube.
� Note: The new water inlet valve mounting screw holes may not be threaded. That is because the screws that hold the valve in place are self-threading. It may be easier for you to twist the old screws into the valve while the valve is out, rather than wait until it is in place. Then, remove the screws from the valve for installation.
� Reinstall the new valve in the reverse order.
� Flush out the water fill hoses.
� Reinstall the fill hoses in the proper order.
� Turn on the water supply valves.
� Check for and correct any leaks.
� Restore power and test operation.

Frigidaire, Top Loader, Valve in Main Body of Washer (not in control panel)
� Use a putty knife to press in the two spring clips at the front of the washer top near the sides. (You may need a flashlight to see the clips.) While you�re pressing in on the clip, lift up on the top, and will lift up like the hood of a car. Be sure to support the lid properly so it doesn't fall backward or forward.
� The valve will be to your left behind the washing machine tub.
� Remove the two screws, which are on the back of the washer, holding the valve.
� From the inside of the washer, carefully pull the valve up toward the top with the wires and feed tube still attached.
� Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
� Remove the water feed tube from the valve.
� Note: The new water inlet valve mounting screw holes may not be threaded. That is because the screws that hold the valve in place are self-threading. It may be easier for you to twist the old screws into the valve while the valve is out, rather than wait until it is in place. Then, remove the screws from the valve for installation.
� Reinstall the new valve in the reverse order.
� Flush out the water fill hoses.
� Reinstall the fill hoses in the proper order.
� Turn on the water supply valves.
� Check for and correct any leaks.
� Restore power and test operation.

Others:
If you didn't see your brand and model above, and you're sure you need to replace your water inlet valve, come see us in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums. Fix ya up. Whatever.

How to Replace the Tub Boot on a Frigidaire-built, front-loading Washing Machine; Frigidaire washer repair; tub boot

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 27 Oct 2005 21:39:00 +0000

1) If the machine has a dryer stacked on top of it or is positioned in such a way that it would be too much bother to move, just leave it where it is. However, if it is possible, it would be easier to do this job if the machine could be leaned. If leaning it back is not possible, then a 6 or 8 inch block of wood will be handy to use to wedge between the front panel and the tub to hold the tub back out of the way.

2) The boot is attached to a lip around the perimeter of the opening in the front panel and is glued on in spots about three inches apart, all the way around. Use a razor blade as shown in illustration #1 to carefully slice the glued spots on the boot away from the front panel.

3) Once the boot is loose from the front panel, push it into the opening of the tub and out of the way as shown in illustration #2. At this point, if the machine is not leaning back, take your block of wood and while pushing back on the tub through the opening, wedge the block between the front panel and the tub about ten inches to the bottom - right of the opening. This will give you more space to work with the boot.

4) Notice that the boot is still attached to the duct that is located just inside the front panel at the upper left corner from the opening. This is where the water, soap, bleach and fabric softener enter the tub. To remove (and later on, reattach) the clamp holding this in place on the end of the duct you will have to make yourself a tool from a three inch piece of 3/8 inch soft copper tubing. In illustration #3 you will see that the end of the tube is flattened somewhat so that it can be slipped over the twisted ends of the clamp as shown in illustration #4. Twist the tube counterclockwise to slip the clamp and set both the tool and the wire clamp aside. Pull the boot free from the duct.

5) Using both hands, grab onto the boot at the top of the opening to the tub and pull downward and toward you with slow steady pressure. As the boot is pulled free from the outer lip of the tub (at the top), the coiled spring that holds the boot from the groove behind the lip around the opening to the front shell will become visible. You can either continue pulling on the boot until it comes off or you can hook the spring (with a piece of coat hanger fashioned into a hook) and pull it off and then pull the boot off separately.

6) Once the boot is off, examine the lip that extends around the entire perimeter of the front opening of the front shell of the tub (the front shell and the rear shell are so named because when bolted together, form the outer tub that surrounds the inner tub). The boot has a lip that will have to be folded into the groove behind the lip on the front shell. To start this, examine the new boot and locate the groove in front of the lip that corresponds to the similar lip and tab on the tub shell. It will make this job a lot easier if you can get some liquid dishwashing soap from the consumer, and sparingly lubricate this groove on the boot to make it easier to slip onto the lip of the shell (see illustration #5). No soap is preferable to too much soap. Have a cloth handy to wipe the soap from your fingers.

7) Once the groove in the boot is lubed with soap, locate the arrow as shown in illustration #6 that is located on the top of the boot (located to the right of the extrusion that slips over the duct). This arrow must point up when the boot is installed.

8) With the boot in one hand and the other hand spreading the lip and groove (on the boot near the arrow), force the lip into the groove behind the lip at the top of the opening on the tub shell (see illustration #7).

9) With one hand holding the boot so it does not slip off, use the other hand to continue spreading the lip and groove of the boot further to the right. In this way, you continue this action 360 degrees around until the boot is mounted onto the front shell ( illustration #8). Your fingers will take a beating while you do this and may become quite tired. Do not give up. Just pop a cold one (without letting go of the boot) and keep at it. Rest one hand at a time if needed. Whatever you do, do not remove both hands until the boot is on (unless you want it to fall off and then you get to start all over with it).

10) Now is the time to put the spring back on. Included in the BOOT KIT is a set of three spacers (an example of which is shown in illustration #9). These spacers are to be used to hold the spring in place in the groove on the outside perimeter of the boot. As it will take both hands to stretch this spring into place, these spacers will prevent the spring from popping out when you let go of it to use both hands to stretch it further around the boot. Begin by pushing the spring down into the groove just forward from where the boot contacts the front shell at about the 12 o'clock position. While holding it in place with one hand, use the other to tightly wedge the spacer above it, between the spring (in its groove) and the weight ring above it as shown in illustration #10.

11) Working your way to the right, push the spring down into the groove. When you have placed the spring about 90 degrees around the opening from the first spacer, the spring will begin to get tight. Push in another spacer at that point (making sure to keep checking the first spacer, if it pops out - the spring will pop out).

12) Continue working your way around (while checking both spacers, you don't want them to slip out) until you reach 180 degrees from the first spacer. Install the third spacer.

13) The spring will be extremely tight now as shown in illustration # 11. Once you have gone more than half way around, the spring will be easier to roll into the rest of the groove (so long as all three spacers are holding tight). When you have the spring in place, make sure to remove the three spacers before proceeding to step # 14.

14) Replace the boot extrusion back onto the duct and pull it up over the ridge on the duct near the top of the opening. Reinstall the clamp in such a way that the clamp sits between the ridges on the extrusion and above the ridge on the duct. Snap the clamp closed with the copper tubing tool that you used previously.

15) Before attaching the new boot to the front panel, clean the surface of the front panel with alcohol or household cleaner. Also clean the flat surface of the new boot that will be contacting the front panel. This step is needed to remove the mold release material used in the manufacturing process and will allow the adhesive to stick.

16) Remount the boot onto the front panel as shown in illustration #13, making sure that the boot is not wrinkled. If large wrinkles exist, they may pool water in the boot and dribble onto the floor when the door is opened. If this is the case, pull it loose from the front panel and remount it slightly more clockwise or counter clockwise as needed.

17) Using the adhesive supplied in the kit, sparingly apply dots of glue under the edge of the boot as shown in illustration #14. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening. Caution: you will need to wait a couple of hours before using the washer to allow the adhesive enough time to dry.

Yes! Some of You DO Grok this Site!

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 27 Oct 2005 02:32:00 +0000

Mark wrote:

As Tommy Lee Jones would say, "Excellant work young man" The site is great, the info is right on target. Been there, done that. Reminds me of a friend of mine that we never let use power tools or touch anything electrical. I am constantly telling him the same things so profoundly posted on your site. Keep it UP!

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Thank you, mah bruthah! I've always tried to make this site informative as well as entertaining and it's always cool when I hear from kindred spirits, like yourself, who "get it." Mucho domos and keep thinking your own thinks!

Is Your Washer a Flood Waiting to Happen?

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Wed, 26 Oct 2005 06:17:00 +0000

Went on a service call the other day for a refrigerator. And, in one of those, "While you're here..." things, I ended up checking out the washer and dryer. Something I always, always check when working on a washer are the fill hoses. The cheap, stamped-brass fittings on the black rubber fill hoses were badly rusted and, in that weakened condition, were more prone to snap or split, causing a huge flood in this million-dollar lake house.

So I pulled those hoses off... actually, the fittings were so badly rusted that they no longer rotated so I had to cut 'em off with the big serrated-edge knife in my Leatherman Wave that I keep on my belt when I'm running service calls. Then I installed a beautiful, brand-new pair of stainless-steel braided fill hoses with stainless steel fittings. The only additional charge was for the retail price of the new hoses. Cheapest flood insurance you can buy!

Mailbag: Washing Machine with a Case of the Drips

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Wed, 26 Oct 2005 03:58:00 +0000

Doctor K wrote:

Your holiness,

washing machine question. (KitchenAid model#622874) I suspect the water inlet valve is faulty since water is dripping when the machine is "off".

Where is the valve located? How do I access to replace?

With all do admiration,

Michael

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Yep, sounds like your water inlet valve can't quite pinch it off anymore. The valve is mounted to the washer's rear bulkhead (that's Navy talk for "wall" or "panel" -- don't let it throw you), as seen here to the right.

Hey, don't run off and start taking off the back panel like a kid opening a Christmas present-- take a breath and read this short missive on how to disassemble your washer. You'll be glad you did.

As you probably suspected, the valve can no longer be trusted to control 40 to 60 psi of water pressure every day, all day long; you have to replace the valve. And, if you purchase the new valve here within the next five minutes, I'll confer a special blessing upon you.

Nolo contendere, e pluribus unum, my child.

Frigidaire Dryer Squealed then Stopped Running; dryer noise; dryer drum bearing; dryer repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Tue, 25 Oct 2005 03:12:00 +0000

Went on a service call the other day on a Frigidaire dryer with the complaint of being very noisy and then stopped tumbling altogether. I opened up the dryer and saw that the back of the drum had actually dropped down several inches. Hmm, this was weird.

Looking between the back of the drum and the heater can with my flashlight, I saw that the drum bearing had broken clean off! You can see what I'm talking about in this picture that compares the old and new drum bearing. You can also see a closeup of the failed bearing here.

Incidentally, for instructions and pictures on disassembling this dryer as well as other dryer brands, see this illuminating tome on dryer disassembly.

Anyway, when the bearing on this dryer needs to be replaced, it makes one helluva racket. The noise will go on, getting progressively louder and more skull-piercing, for several weeks before some type of catastrophic failure occurs. I don't know how they could put up with the noise all that time. When the dryer finally stopped working altogether, then it was time to call for service. Enter the Samurai.

To get an idea of how long the dryer must've been screeching and howling, check out how the round drum bearing ball got lathed into a cylinder by the worn bearing ball socket-- picture.

Anyway, I installed a brand-spanking new drum bearing kit and harmony was restored to both the dryer and the household.

Gas Oven Goes Boom When It Starts; gas oven ignition problems, gas oven repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Mon, 24 Oct 2005 05:03:00 +0000

rvancott wrote:

I have a kenmore stove. Inconsistantly after the stove is turned on after several minutes I heard a boom from the stove. The kitchen smells like gas, but the stove is on. I would assume from your trouble shooting guide that the ignitor was the case. Do you have any insights/surgestions....Master

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This is caused by delayed ignition of the gas. You didn't include a model number so I can't be sure of who the real manufacturer is (RE: Who made my Kenmore?) But this was a known problem with the ignition ports on the bake burner tube in some Whirlpool-built gas ranges, including some of the ones made for Kenmore.

The ignition ports are special holes in the burner that line up with the hot-surface ignitor (the "glow plug"). When the valve opens, gas gushes through the ignition ports and hits the ignitor where it ignites. The ignition flashes back into the burner tube and ignites the gas in the remaing burner tube holes.

The problem was a manufacturing defect with the gas ignition ports on the bake burner where the ignition ports where offset just enough that it delayed the efficient ignition of the gas; instead, the gas had to flow for a few moments before it finally found the ignitor. The result was a BOOM when all that extra gas outside the burner tube ignited.

The fix was to install the new, corrected burner tube, which you can acquire here.

What to Check When Your Refrigerator or Freezer is Warming Up; refrigerator warm; refrigerator repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sun, 23 Oct 2005 07:16:00 +0000

Whenever I'm on a warm refrigerator complaint, here's the fire drill I follow:

Instruct the customer to step away from the refrigerator as I walk into the kitchen so she can show me how gawd-awful warm it is. Within seconds of opening the door, refrigerator space temperature jumps. See, I'll use my infrared thermometer to get an instant temperature reading the moment I open the door. Getting an accurate temperature read on the two compartments both forms the empirical basis for proceeding and helps to define the problem. For example, if the freezer is at 0ºF or below but the fresh food compartment is at 53ºF, I'll bet you my last warm can of Bud that the problem is with air distribution and I'm going straight for the air supply or air return ducts. Oh yeah, I got lots o' little tricks like that. Stick around and I'll show you a few.

Is the condenser fan running and the condenser clean? The condenser is the dirty, icky black coil-thingy at the very bottom of your fridge, right above the floor (unless your refrigerator cools its condenser by natural-convection, in which case, the condenser would be mounted on the back of the refrigerator cabinet and you wouldn't have a condenser fan). If the condenser fan ain't running or the condenser is matted up with Rover's hair, well, hope you like warm beer, that's all I gots to say.

Is the evaporator fan running? That's the one in the freezer; you won't see it but you can hear it. On some models, it stops running when the freezer door is opened, but you'll hear it when the door is closed. Turn down Shania Twain and Garth Brooks long enough to really listen to the sounds your appliances make. You know, when you're troubleshooting, you're using all five of your senses. Does something smell different? Does something sound different? Well, how you gonna know if'n you don't listen to them when things are running well? Hmmm? Ok then. Y'see, Slick, all your cold air is made in the freezer and that little fan in there blows some of it into the beer compartment. No fan == warm beer. Is simple, da tovarish?

Does the evaporator itself look abnormal: either too much frost build-up or too little? Too much frost indicates a defrost system failure == easy, inexpensive fix that's definitely worth doing. Too little frost means either a freon leak or a worn compressor; either way, junk the refrigerator and get a new one... unless you got suckered into buying a Sub-Zero and now you're married to the beeotch. The one exception to this would be if the problem is the compressor start relay-- easy fix.

How to Open a Whirlpool or Kenmore Direct-Drive Washer; how to take apart washer; washing machine disassembly; washer repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sun, 23 Oct 2005 06:16:00 +0000

Doc wrote:

How do I open a Kenmore Washer Model# 110.28932790

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This is a Whirlpool-built direct drive washer. It opens up a little differently from what you might expect. Many people, thinking the top panel pops up, begin ruthlessly prying on the seam between the top and front panel and only end up with a disfigured washer. I've seen more adventurous types actually remove the entire back panel, getting them no closer to what they were trying for. Let the Samurai enlighten you.

The entire cabinet removal procedure is illustrated in this diagram. Even though the procedure is very straight forward, a couple of fine points are worth mentioning:

Some Kenmore-branded versions of this washer use plastic endcaps to cover the console screws. Just remove the console end caps and the console retaining screws are right there. This technique is illustrated in this photo.
Once you've removed the console screws, flip the entire control console up and back to reveal the cabinet retaining braces, shown here.
After you pull the cabinet back and away from the washer, here's an illustrated anatomy of your naked washing machine. The lid switch is screwed to the inside of the cabinet top panel and is easily accessible with the cabinet removed.
Replacing the cabinet is usually very straight forward but sometimes little snags can arise. Some helpful hints for replacing the cabinet are explained here.

How to Make Electrical Measurements; how to use a volt-ohm meter; how to measure electricity

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sun, 23 Oct 2005 05:27:00 +0000

recinos wrote:

I have a GE Dryer, DDG6580GDLAD which quit working. I bought a multimeter (Craftman 3482141) to help me find the parts that are not working. However, reading the instructions for the multimeter is completely foreign to me. What I need is a crash course on how to use it. I read some of your information on it use and now have a vague idea. What I need is an Instructions for Dummies.

Thank you!

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Come in, grasshopper, and find shelter from the storm. I've written an easy-to-understand primer on making basic electrical measurements for your ineffable inflatus.

Amana Gas Oven Won't Fire Up; Oven Ignitor Wires; Oven Repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sat, 22 Oct 2005 13:50:00 +0000

Oven Ignitor Wires
Originally uploaded by Zenzoidman.

Went on a service call for an Amana gas oven that wouldn't fire up. When I arrived, I turned on the oven to verify the complaint-- the ignitor (the thing pictured here) glowed but didn't fire up. I measured the current draw on the ignitor (see this page for more details on that) and read 2.8 amps-- too low to open the gas valve. When I turned off the range and removed the ignitor, I saw that its wires had been pinched so badly that it appeared the wires were intermittently making contact with the cabinet and arcing. While this wasn't the direct cause for the oven not firing up in this case, it could have eventually become a cause for other problems, such as nuisance breaker tripping.

Anyway, installed a new ignitor and they lived happily ever after.

Using Archived Pearls of Wisdom from the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum to Fix Your Insolent Appliances

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 20 Oct 2005 06:12:00 +0000

Pearls of Wisdom
Originally uploaded by Zenzoidman.

Jedi Appliance Guy refers to archived pages of wisdom from the World-Famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums as he prepares to do battle with a Maytag Neptune washer to replace the boot seal.

Whirlpool-Built Direct Drive Washer: Pump Removed from Motor

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 20 Oct 2005 06:04:00 +0000

Pump Removed from Motor
Originally uploaded by Zenzoidman.

With the cabinet removed and the pump pulled off, you're looking straight at the motor. The pump is pulled off to the left and held back by a screwdriver pegged into the frame.

Maytag Neptune Washer with Top Panel Raised, Accessing the Door Latch Assembly

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 20 Oct 2005 05:58:00 +0000

Popping the Hood
Originally uploaded by Zenzoidman.

To raise the top panel on this dishwasher, you have to first remove the door and then the front panel to expose the top panel latch bolts, located on each side, just below the top panel. With the top panel raised, you have access to the lid switch, water fill valve and injection assembly, dispenser assembly, and the top part of the tub boot. This can all be done with a #2 Phillip's screwdriver, but I like to use a 5/16" nut driver on the top panel latch bolts. Just another one of my bad habits. ; )

The Naked Truth about being an Appliance Repair Tech

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Mon, 17 Oct 2005 07:52:00 +0000

Somedays, after running service calls and dealing with one or two USDA Grade A pricks, I conjure up images of my day where all I do is go to unoccupied homes, fix the appliance, take the check left for me on the counter and then head off to the next job. Even though most folks are really cool to work for, about one customer in every hundred is a real ball-buster-- they're the ones that make you wanna leave humans outta the repair picture.

One of my readers, J. "Dusty" Tingstrom, captures this spirit perfectly in her ode to appliance techs:

Just for the Samurai Repairman:

As a fixer I'm hoping to see
Less need for to fix the fixee
May the good mechanized
Just be less eulogized
So more time for more beer there will be.

J. Tingstrom
9/05

Did she capture every tech's on-the-job prayer, or what? But it don't work that way in the real world now does it? Nope, there's other people involved every step of the way, from the initial call for service to the collecting payment and leaving. And this reveals a fact of life about doing professional appliance repair that many techs just don't get:

You don't just fix appliances-- you also fix customers.

You could be the best tech in the world, with an encyclopedic knowledge about the innards of all appliances, ranging from the low-end to the exotic, but if the customer thinks you're a 'tard, what have you gained? Once the customer puts you under the technician microscope, they'll find some reason to think you're incompetent and didn't fix the appliance right. Maybe they'll think it sounds funny or smells funny after you fixed it. Whatever. The point is, you gotta fix the customer-- fixing the appliance is only part of the job while you're there in the house.

How do we fix the customer? By communicating with them in a straight-forward manner; by not bullshitting when you don't know something; by doing everything you said you'll do, when you said you'll do it; by taking care not to crap up the customer's home while you're in there; and, of course, by fixing the broken appliance and standing behind your work with a meaningful warranty.

Using the Concept of Appliance Half-Life to Determine When to Replace an Old Dryer (or any other appliance)

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Sat, 15 Oct 2005 07:42:00 +0000

Susan wrote:

Thank you, Samurai, for your table of the half-life of appliances. The Maytag gas dryer in my rental unit wouldn't heat. The pilot light wouldn't stay lit and following the instructions on the access door for lighting the pilot didn't help. The dryer was not new when I bought the property 17 years ago. Your table helped me to decide that, this time, it is probably not worth it to spend the money and aggravation to try to repair it. I'll check with you next time one of my appliances is "on the fritz".

Honor to you!

Susan

_______________________________
Message sent from IP: 68.253.208.116

Your visit to my website seeking appliance wisdom honors me!

The problem with your dryer was most likely a fouled pilot assembly. I don't even know if burner parts are still available for pilot-ignition gas dryers. Nevertheless, let's do a repair benefit analysis from the superior persepective afforded by reading my enlightening tome, "How Long Should Appliances Last?" which you mentioned in your email.

Looking up dryers in the appliance half-life table, we see that dryers have a half-life of 13 years. Since your 17-year old dryer is four years older than the half-life, your chances for a successful repair on this dryer is approximately 35%. Lemme put it this way: If one of my local customers were to call me to schedule a service call for this dryer, I would encourage them to get a new one.

You made the right decision.

Gas Dryer No Heat; dryer troubleshooting and repair, gas dryer won't fire up; dryer repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Fri, 14 Oct 2005 00:02:00 +0000

Filomena wrote:

I have a Whirlpool gas dryer model # LGC8858EQ2 that isn't working. It runs, but isn't heating. I have replaced the gas valve, the thermostat, and the ignitor and still nothing. I can use some advice. I have two kids and one is a toddler with a disability and really need a working dryer.

Thanks for any advice you may give.

Filomena

_______________________________
Message sent from IP: 66.81.136.231

The most important advice I can give you is Samurai's Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair, "Never replace a part unless you have proof that it is bad."

But people tell me, "Yo, Samurai, we don't know how to test stuff and use those fancy instruments like you do, so how we gonna get the 'proof,' smart guy?"

Ah, grasshoppah, seek and ye shall find. But you gotta seek. And you gotta be honest with yourself about knowing what you know as well as what you don't know. In the long run, you'll save time and money, and you'll gain the satisfaction of learning something, too (they say that continual learning is the key to avoiding old-age dementia).

Now, let's apply these principles to fixing your dryer using the information freely and readily available on the Internet... like at this website, for instance. Easiest way to find the information you need ratcheer to fix your dryer is to do a site search using Yahoo!™. In your case, fer ezzample, I'd use a moderately specific search term such as, "gas dryer no heat." Let's pop that little gem into the Yahoo! site search box below:

and clicking the search button reveals this page-full of gas dryer repair wisdom.

What's that you're saying, "How 'bout makin' them fancy electrical measurements, like they talk about on some of those pages pulled up by the Yahoo! site search?" Great question! It shows you're really thinking. Let's apply the search principles we've just learned to this new nugget of knowledge needed to complete our Illumination. Plugging the term electrical measurements into the Yahoo! search box gives this excellent and mercifully short primer on making simple electrical measurements, such as measuring resistance, voltage, and current.

I'd like to summarize the foregoing discussion with a haiku that I wrote just for you and rendered in traditional 5-7-5 meter:

Gas dryer won't dry.
Shotgunned parts but still no joy.
Search Samurai's site.

How to Find the Exact Appliance Repair Help You Need Right Here at FixitNow.com

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 13 Oct 2005 23:44:00 +0000

Did you know this website, Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man, has over 2,000 pages of free, easy-to-understand appliance repair help for the do-it-yourselfer? Oui, oui, I shi'ite you not. While I do have a site map that I keep updated, it's just not an efficient way to find what you need if you're on a mission to fix a specific problem with one of your appliances.

Fortunately, you have a way of jumping through the vast universe of information at this site and landing on exactly what you need to fix it now. Just use one of the site search engines found on every page of this website; it's either a Yahoo! or a Google site search box. Because I'm such a thoughtful and oh-so-damned-good-looking guy, I've included both below.

Happy searching!

Bosch Dishwasher Diagnostic Procedures; dishwasher repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Thu, 13 Oct 2005 03:21:00 +0000

And now, a special treat for you Bosch dishwasher owners out there...

SHI/U 43�MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

WASH = Heater fault

RINSE/DRY = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

CLEAN = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), RINSE/DRY light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), CLEAN light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 4322 & 4326 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ �20� = version 0 without jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.

To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ �6� = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ �21� = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.

To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ �6� = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

SHI/U 68-- MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ �20� = version 0 without jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.

To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ �6� = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

SHV 43/48 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. NOTE: TO ENABLE LIGHTS TO COME ON, DOOR MUST BE OPENED.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When SCRUB WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN and REFILL RINSE AGENT lights also come on (for SHV 4803 models) or CLEAN light also comes on (for SHV 4303 models). NOTE: TO ENABLE LIGHTS TO COME ON, DOOR MUST BE OPENED.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

SCRUB WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

REGULAR WASH = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), SCRUB WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating. NOTE: TO ENABLE LIGHTS TO COME ON, DOOR MUST BE OPENED.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 9902/9905/9906 (Millennium) MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When SCRUB WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

SCRUB WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

REGULAR WASH = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), SCRUB WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 991x/992x (Integra) MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When SCRUB WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on andan audible tone (�beep�) also occurs.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

SCRUB WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

REGULAR WASH = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), SCRUB WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

SHU 33 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.

To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.

To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:

POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault

REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)

RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Subscribe to Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:18:00 +0000

Yes, Grasshopper, now you, too, can receive the Samurai's secret pearls of appliance repair wisdom delivered to your email in a discreet brown wrapper. Taunt your friends and delight your enemies with your amazing new knowledge! Just enter your email address below. And, no, the Samurai would never stoop to selling or sharing your email address and you can opt out at any time.

Whirlpool Washer wont spin - The Laundry Shack - Appliance Repair Hut - The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums; washer repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Mon, 10 Oct 2005 06:08:00 +0000

This post in the repair forum illustrates a clever use for a digital camcorder in helping to diagnose the problem with this washer. Turns out the washer wouldn't spin because the coupler was stripped out. For someone who has no idea about how these machines work to try to describe the sound is tough. After viewing and listening to just two seconds of the clip, I could tell the problem was a stripped out drive coupler-- heard it many times. Easy repair, too. Got complete instructions here.

Removing timer knob on KitchenAid washer KAWE777BWHI - The Laundry Shack - Appliance Repair Hut - The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums; washer repair

Zenzoidman Apocalypse — Mon, 10 Oct 2005 05:59:00 +0000

Removing a washer timer knob can be tricky and you could cause more damage if you're not careful. For the Whirlpool, Kenmore, or Kitchenaid top loading washer, there's a good explanation of how to remove the timer knob in the repair forum. You can read it here.

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