Model numbers starting with GSD, such as GSD6660G00SS.
Most “no-pump-out”? issues are solved by cleaning out a plugged air gap, drain hose or disposer. However, on GE dishwashers with a rear filter, “no-pump-out”? may also be caused by a malfunctioning piston and nut assembly, located underneath the rear filter. To save time, effort and repeat service calls, always inspect the piston and nut assembly when diagnosing a “no-pump-out” complaint.
The piston and nut assembly has an integral check valve, shaped like an umbrella, which closes the collection chamber inlet during pump out. If the check valve is damaged, held open by debris or assembled upside down, water will circulate inside the tub instead of going down the drain. Cleaning a clogged valve or replacing a defective one will solve the problem. This check valve is very inexpensive, especially given that it’s a GE. Come git you one.
If the piston and nut check valve assembly is functioning normally, verify operation of other parts of the drain system. Those parts include the dual pump check valve on models with a three port collection chamber, the adapter check valve at the outlet of the collection chamber, the solenoid/gate valve mechanism on the main pump and both the main pump and dual pump, if equipped.
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
Service Flash from Electrolux on the 30″ Frigidaire Free-Standing Ranges with lower mini oven and warmer drawer combination:
Beeping sound coming from the control panel area with no fault code displayed in the Electronic Oven Control (EOC). The consumer can set the oven lock out feature and the beeping stops.
Possible open or shorted mini oven sensodprobe circuit, or mini oven control. The mini oven control will beep constantly when it detects a fault condition in the temperature sensor/probe circuit. This may be caused by a runaway heat condition, open or shorted temperature sensor/probe, or faulty sensor/probe connection or harness.
The technician should test the temperature sensor/probe circuit by disconnecting the P3 connector at the mini oven control board and then measuring the resistance between the two purple wires. The resistance of the mini oven temperature sensor probe should read the same as that of the main oven temperature sensor/probe. If the sensor/probe circuit and harness are good, then replace the mini oven control board.
Thanks to our forum moderator, Pegi, for sharing this with us.
You wanted another all listener emails episode. You’ve flooded us with email demanding it. And a surprising number of you have actually immolated yourselves and had your cousins mail me photos of your smoldering, sizzling carcasses. That got our attention. So, here it is, another all listener email episode! (Now, stop with the photos, please.) And, best of all, it’s less than 15 minutes short.
Bob has a Kenmore electric range that doesn’t heat; the lights work and a warming burner, but the main oven and stove elements don’t get hot. What are the things to check?
As a result of Euclidean geometry, Doug is contemplating venting his dryer into the crawl space of his house. To do otherwise would require a very long dryer vent with multiple turns. What’s the problem with venting a dryer into a crawl space?
Ah, grasshoppah, listen and learn!
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If you suspect the transmission in your Maytag Atlantis or Performa is bad (and it wouldn’t be first… or the hundredth… you get my drift?) this topic in the repair forum will help you determine with certitude whether or not it really is bad.
You may need to know this little trick when trying to repair a Maytag dishwasher with a drain problem. This trick applies to Maytag dishwashers with model numbers starting with PDB, such as PDB2430AWE.
After checking the usual suspects, check the drain solenoid. Two tests are required here: first, check the continuity of the solenoid coil; second, make sure it’s getting 120vac during the drain cycle. If either condition fails, then replace the drain solenoid.
Now, here’s where the trick comes in. You may find that, after replacing the solenoid (or before!), the solenoid plunger flings out when it’s time to drain. Dontcha hate when that happens? The solution is stunningly simple and, best of all, the part costs less than a buck. How’s that for the deal of the day?
The problem is a broken lifter; you can see it in this diagram as item 23.
To replace this humble little part, first take off the top cover on the dishwasher motor. Do this by unscrewing the tower, removing the spray arm and pulling the cover off. Again, refer to this diagram. Once you get all that schtookus outta the way, you’ll expose the lifter linkage. You can tell the lifter is bad (or as we professional appliantologists like to say, “Vees badden”… that’s a little German lingo fer ya) because it should be in the shape of an “L.” If’n it ain’t, then the metal arm of item 34 will have too wide a range of motion and, as a result, the solenoid plunger will drop out.
You can buy the all-important lifter here.
Been a whole slew of air damper control problems with these fridges. Affected model numbers start with PLHS.
When you turn the thermostat on and off you should be able to hear the damper open and shut. If not, the damper is probably stuck wide-azz open, which will freeze your beer and veggies. Bummer, dude!
What’s a grasshopper to do? Piece of pie, tovarish: simply replace the damper control assembly with this upgraded kit from Friggidaire (no, that’s not a typo).
More background discussion about this problem in this repair forum topic.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
Installing a new motor-pump assembly into this dishwasher can be a difficult job for the limp-of-wrist and wet-of-bed. But gird up your loins like a man and the Samurai, lo, even the Samurai himself, shall lead you unto the Promised Land.
Can I hear an “Amen?”
Yeah, whatever. Freak.
If the icemaker in your 2005 Frigidaire refrigerator won’t make ice unless you jiggle the ejector arm, then you need to replace the icemaker hold switch and cam. There’s a “dead spot” between one contact opening and the other contact closing that causes the icemaker to stop because both contacts are open at the same time. The cams are also out of tolerance and should be replaced. Here’s your shopping list:
To learn more about your ice maker, or to order parts, click here.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
Couple common causes for this little nuisance which I discuss ad nauseum ratcheer.
Common model numbers are MCE8000AY and MCG8000AW. These models have been out long enough for something to break and need fixing. Here’s the Cliff Notes tear down procedure:
- Remove the two screws that connect the front panel to the lint trap housing.
- Open the upper cabinet dryer and unscrew the four screws that span across the rear of the control panel.
- Move the control panel up and be aware that you will have to detach at least one electrical connector to get the panel out of the way. This will allow you to swing the control panel to the left.
- Remove the five screws located across the top of the bottom panel– previously hidden by the control panel).
- Swing the top of the panel out and gently pull up to remove the bottom of the panel from the brackets.
- Unhook the electrical connector on the lower right side which will allow you to swing the panel to the left.
- Sit back and reward your self with a cold one. Hey, grab me one while you’re at it. Domo!