Monthly Archives: July 2006

Whirlpool / Kenmore Refrigerator with Chronic Water Leaking Problem Inside the Beer Compartment

This problem is on the top-and-bottom refrigerators (as opposed to the side-by-side). What’s going on here is that the condensate drain hole in the freezer gets plugged with ice. Once this happens, all the frost melted off the evaporator during subsequent defrost cycles can no longer drain and so spreads out on the freezer and dribbles down into the beer compartment below, as shown here (click for larger view). So, here’s whatcha do…

Unplug the refrigerator and pull everything outta the freezer, and I mean everything. Then, remove the bottom panel inside the freezer so you can see the condensate trough in the back of the freezer as shown here, click it for a larger view. Notice that the condensate trough is filled with ice– all that has to be cleared out. Take it easy back there, delicate parts are exposed– don’t start hacking at it with an ice pick because chances are you’ll just end up puncturing the evaporator and you’ll turn a simple, inexpensive repair into a majorly expensive one.

Once all the ice is cleared away and the condensate drain opening is cleared, then you’re ready to apply the fixite el permanenté, as they say down in Ol’ Mehico. Here’s the three-step repair procedure:

1. Come git you a defrost drain strap.

2. Install according to the supplied directions.

3. Pop a cold one and buy me one, too. Domo, compadre. 🙂

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Temperature Regulation Problems in a Sub-Zero 642 (600-series) Refrigerator

GE Refrigerator Class Action Lawsuit Update

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Here’s an update on this on-going lawsuit from our friends at BringGoodThingstoLife.org:

Most people across the country are unaware of the National Class Action lawsuit and Settlement Argreement pertaining to 304 models of GE defective refrigerators. Consumers are for the most part totally unaware that their GE refrigerator is included in a lawsuit. The Settlement Agreement provides for refunds for previously paid repairs, refunds to those who replaced their refrigerator at their own expense, free replacement refrigerators to those who have had three moisture related repairs and continue to have problems, and free extended warranties. GE is doing everything they can to hide this information from the public and slip this lawsuit and Settlement Agreement quietly through the court. We were able to get the deadlines for registering extended to Sept. 4, 2006. Once final approval happens in court, anyone who did not get registered in time will be forever barred from any claim against GE for losses or damages. Please do what you can to help us spread the word!

Our website has been updated with the latest information. http://www.BringGoodThingsToLife.org We do have an entire new website (much better) that will be uploaded within a day or two.

We know that there are more than 304 models affected, we know that the defects are not limited to just the Bloomingtion, Indiana factory, and we know that the defects continued into 2003 models. Defective doors appear on 2004 and 2005 models. Anyone who has a model not included in the current class action – we want to hear from. We have accumulated substantial evidence of additional models that should have been included in this lawsuit. Please help to spread the word, only 7 weeks remain for hundreds of thousands of people to get their claim forms submitted in time.

We did not initiate this class action; we more or less have been “bird dogging” it so to speak as a Boston Globe reporter put it. If you check out our site, you will get picture.

Cathy Cannivet

GE has posted a webpage on this class action lawsuit as well.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

GE Dishwasher Drainology

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If your GE dishwasher isn’t draining, this cheat sheet will step you through the most common causes.

First check is underneath the sump entrance screen (item 4 in this thumbnail — click for a larger view). Remove the one or two screws on the cover to remove and check for gookus– anything that shouldn’t be there. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter (item 3) inside the basin, at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. For additional information on this filter plunger/piston check valve assembly, see this post. Part link for the piston check valve assembly is ratcheer.

The next obstacle for draining water is the back flush valve (item 2 in this thumbnail– click for a larger view). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. You’ll need to get to the drain port to check this flapper valve– it simply untwists from the self clean filter body. All hoses between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor; the older models, however, used a drain solenoid valve (item 1 in the above thumbnail). If this solenoid fails, the dishwasher won’t drain, plain and simple. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. Use your ohm meter to test the continuity of the solenoid coil. You should also test to see if it’s receiving 120vac when the dishwasher is supposed to be draining. For help using a meter to make simple electrical measurements, see this post.

Some additional phun photos for you to gaze upon lovingly: