So, you pulled the door off your Thermador range because you and your buddy were doing shots of cheap vodka and, well, it seemed like a good idea at the time. Or maybe you had another reason that sounds almost as good as that one. Whatever. But now, you can’t figger out how to get that half-ton piece of stainless steel back on the hinges. Never fear, grasshopper-dear, for the repair wisdom you seek is ratcheer.
So, how do we deal with water leaks in appliances? Let us open our hymnals to the 7th Law of the Prophecy, wherein it is written, “All leaks are visual.” In observance of the prophecy, remove the kickplates from the dishwasher and run it while peering intently underneath with a flashlight. If you see the leak coming from the location shown below…
Then you just need the drain valve shaft seal. Piece of pie, tovarish! But if you need more help, see this topic and this one at the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums.
Plug n’ chug, bud-row. 
And I do mean literally flakey. Apprentice Appliantologist billccm posted this question in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums:
Hello All:
I have a six year old KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDR01TJBL0, serial FL5125226.
It is a very mediocre product, but that is a subject for another day.
What I am experiencing is flaking of black, crusty coatings from the heating element. It seems to be cracking off and blasting itself throughout the dishwasher.
I have researched this issue, and it seems that the ’round’ elements are the issue, and Whirlpool has an upgrade kit.
So, kind experts, is this all I need to fix my problem? Is it a job I can tackle in a Saturday afternoon, or shall I call a service company?
Finally, do you recommend that I cut my loss on this very mediocre product and invest in a new Bosch dishwasher?
Sincere thanks for your time in replying, and have a nice day,
Bill
This repair is very worthwhile doing. On new appliances today, you’ll be doing some type of repair every two to four years. So, buying a new one just because something is broken on Old Faithful is not a silver bullet. Just bite the bullet and do the repair. Here’s the upgrade kit you’ll need. The repair is straight-forward; here’s the service manual if you need it.
One of the New Year’s resolutions I made was to try five new beers this year. Yeah, I like to set a low hurdle so as to build up my self esteem, an’ all. Anyway, given my legendary penchant for the sacred fermented nectar, it didn’t take long to fulfill that one. Here are the five new brews I road tested:
Wicked Pablo Picasso Rauchbie
This beer comes pre-shaken, so point it away from your face when you open it.
Ace Ventura’s Moronic Golden Ocelot American Light Lager
Ever wondered what carbonated kitty urine tastes like? I don’t… anymore.
Santa’s Grunting Lemur Barley Wine
After you kill a six-pack of this stuff, you’ll know why those poor lemurs were grunting. Santa awwta be arrested for animal cruelty.
Ardvaark-Swill Bière de Garde
The “swill” portion of the name is really misleading. But then again, I’ve always had a soft spot for beers flavored with ardvaark roadkill.
Beelzebub’s Portentious Vampire Bat Extra Special Bitter
This is one bad hombre. Two swigs of this stuff and I was doing a Vulcan mind-meld with Dick Cheney and wanted to bomb the hell outta everything.
Cheers!
Not to be confused with the famous burned R11 on the Machine Control Board, this little nasty is on the board down inside the machine, below the drum. You can’t just replace the fuse– nawsir, you ain’t gettin’ off that easy…. or cheap. You’ll need to replace the motor and motor control board upgrade kit. Yessir, it’s just one of the many exciting common problems included with these washers at no additional charge!
To make sure you’re ordering the right kit, you’ll need the first two digits of your serial number in addition to your model number. You’ll find both of these stamped on the model number tag on your washer.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.