my whirlpool washer do not spin, it is about two years old.
No model number given so I don’t know if this washer is a top-loader or a Whirlpool Duet front-loader. However, based on the improper conjugation of the verb “to do” in your problem statement and my razor-sharp Samurai insight, I intuit that you have a top-loading washer. Here, then, are some choice selections of past posts I’ve written on this very problem:
Whirlpool-Kenmore Direct-Drive Washer with a Lazy Spin
Haikus for Appliance Repair
Whirlpool Washer Won’t Spin
Is it Worth Replacing a Broken Coupler on a Whirlpool or Kenmore Direct Drive Washer?
Kenmore Washer Won’t Spin
Mailbag: Making Simple Repairs Complicated
Mailbag: Whirlpool Washer No Spin Problem
Once you figger out what’s wrong, you can come git your parts ratcheer. If you’re still confoosed and need more help, come see us in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums and we’ll hepya some mo’.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
So, you’ve determined that your oven sensor is bad. You did this by getting an error code on the ERC and then looking up the code with a little help from your Master Appliantologist friends at the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums. As a dutiful Apprentice Appliantologist, your next step is to test the sensor resistance using this pearl of appliantological wisdom as your Spirit Guide. You know how to measure resistance with an ohm meter because you’ve read this basic primer on making simple electrical measurements. But now a new problem confronts you: which wires do you put your meter probes on to measure the resistance?
Ahh, grasshoppah, unfurl that brow and unbunch those panties while you swill your flavorite fermented beverage. Then let the Samurai take your trembling hand and gently guide you to Appliance Nirvana®.
First, open the door to your oven and peer intently at the upper left hand and right hand corners of the oven cavity. There, nestled discreetly and out of the main view, ye shall find something looking like unto this picture (click it for a larger view). Behold the sensor! In this picture, it’s shown dangling from its wires because I already removed the two mounting screws. Normally, it’s pointing strait out toward the door. Notice the color and diameter of the two wires attached to the sensor. Notice also how they run back behind the oven cavity. On some models (most Maytags, for example), you can ever-so-gently coax the wires through the hole and a quick release connector will come through, allowing you easy access to the ends of the wires from which you can make your resistance reading and even replace the entire sensor without having to pull the range out from the wall.
On other models, whose engineers were not as thoughtful (notably GE), you’ll need to pull the entire range out from the wall, presenting a significant scratching hazard to your floor and eliciting one or more adult words from your lips. After removing the back panel you’ll see where the sensor wires connect to another pair of larger wires that run up to the ERC in the control panel. The connection will either be a quick connect harness or wires nuts, like the ceramic ones shown here. Either way, simply undo the connection and then you have the free ends of the sensor wires on which to make your resistance measurements (and to replace the sensor).
If you need to buy a new sensor for your oven or range, come git you one ratcheer.
To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.
So you’re happily running your Maytag dishwasher one day, getting the Alpo scrubbed off of your dinner plates when your nostrils are assaulted by a burning smell. You quickly check the pair of skivvies you’re wearing and, finding them to be (reasonably) clean, you discover that Da Schmeel is indeed wafting from your Maytag dishwasher. Your mind shifts from peering intently into your britches and snaps into troubleshooting mode as you open the control panel on the dishwasher, seeking the source of the burning smell. Your keen Vulcan squinties immediately spot a group of burnt wires on the timer harness, similar to what’s shown here:
“WTF?” you exclaim, in astonishment and horror.
Turns out that there is a recall on this dishwasher for a problem with the rinse aid dispenser. Although the depicted problem was not caused by this, but was instead due to loose connections at the timer wire harness, there’s still a good chance that Maytag will cover it for you. Worth a call, right? Here’s the number to the Maytag Recall Team: 1-800-675-0535.
And in case they don’t cover it, here’s the part link to the timer if you want to replace it yourself. Easy job, half a mug on the world-famous SUDS-o-meter.
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
Living up here in New Hampshire, I do service calls in some remote places. Here’s a picture of a service call I did at a high mountain cottage in the White Mountains. Carrying all my tools up the mountain was tough on my bad back. And then those hikes all the way back down the mountain to get parts out of my van… OY! I think maybe I’m getting too old for this bidness.