Monthly Archives: October 2010

Jenn-Air W30400W wall oven with a F5 error code

According to the service manual for this wall oven, the F5 error code pops up when the power to the heating element relays (either the bake or broil element) is disabled while in cook mode. This can happen when one of two things are going on with the oven:

1) Intermittent sensor or wire harness connection.

2) Intermittent contact on power relay board (PRB).

Check the sensor wire harness, undo and reconnect. If the F5 code re-appears, replace the PRB, here’s the part link==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Relay-Board/905230?modelNumber=W30400W

Got a pictorial guide for this job ratcheer==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/05/16/jenn-air-svd48600-range-power-relay-board-and-electrode-changeout-a-pictorial-odyssey/

Not sure that’s the problem? Don’t trust ol’ Samurai? Tell you what: you buy the part through that link and, if that doesn’t fix it, you can return it within 30 days for a full refund, less shipping, even after you already installed it. That’s about as close to risk-free as you’re gonna get!

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
http://fixitnow.com

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://applianceguru.com
Facebook==> http://facebook.fixitnow.com
Twitter==> http://twitter.fixitnow.com
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com

KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDI24SE — No power

Sublime Master Reg succinctly points out the two most common causes for this problem:

Check your Nuts …

click on picture

There is also a small Thermal Fuse in the Console …

repair kit comes with extention wires (for thermal safety)

click on picture

 

Read more: http://applianceguru.com/forum1/28055.html#ixzz130xeSTur

 


Need parts for your dishwasher?  Get ’em here==> http://parts.fixitnow.com

Dryer repeatedly blowing thermal fuses? Here are some things to check.

The number one cause for this is poor dryer venting. We professional appliantologists are always telling people this but they never believe us. As Sublime Master kdog so wisely observed, “We get to explain poor dryer venting situations to non-believing consumers on a daily basis.” http://applianceguru.com/forum2/27937-2.html#ixzz12xe1tMnD

I’ve got a dozen or so posts on this site dealing with dryer venting problems and explaining why proper venting is Numero Uno importanté for your dryer to run properly. Come check ’em out.

If your dryer vent exhaust looks like this, don’t be surprised if that thermal fuse keeps blowing over and over again…

Clogged dryer vent exhaust
(click to enlarge)

Need parts for your dryer? Get ’em here==> http://parts.fixitnow.com

Kenmore Oasis HE, Whirlpool Cabrio HE, Maytag Bravos HE: Full Disassembly/Outer Tub Replacement Guide

First step, buy the replacement tub and bearing assembly here:


Click image to purchase.

This Repair Guide™ photo essay was written by Sublime Master Tronicsmasta (shown in the Guide) and originally posted in the Samurai School of Appliantology.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
http://fixitnow.com

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://appliantology.org
Facebook==> http://facebook.fixitnow.com
Twitter==> http://twitter.fixitnow.com
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com

From Evernote:

Kenmore Oasis HE, Whirlpool Cabrio HE, Maytag Bravos HE: Full Disassembly/Outer Tub Replace Guide

Kenmore Oasis HE, Whirlpool Cabrio HE, Maytag Bravos HE
Full Disassembly/Outer Tub Replace Guide

Part to Replace:Outer Tub Assembly
Difficulty:2/3 out of 5 beers.
Time:
Professional: 40-60 mins.
Grasshopper: 2-hours+

Here is the machine:

This is me:

1. Open the top lid by depressing the tabs with a butter knife or putty knife between the top and cabinet. The picture below shows the top opened and the clips that you need to depress.

2. Prop the lid up against the wall so it stays at a 90 degree angle.

3. Remove the tub ring by releasing the tabs on the side and removing the recirculation hose by releasing the clamp.

4. Remove the wash plate bolt cover. There is a slot that meets with one of the wash plate "fins". Remove the wash plate by removing the 7/16in bolt. Pull up on the wash plate with a pair of pliers to remove it from the shaft. This will expose the wash plate shaft and basket hub.

5. Remove the basket by holding the inside of the balance ring and pulling straight up. Sometimes, corrosion gets stuck on the shaft making it very difficult to remove the basket. If you have this issue, fill the machine with a hose and the basket will start to float. keep filling it while pulling up on the basket then pushing it down again. BE SURE your drain hose is still in the stand pipe or you will have a mess. Eventually, the pressure of you pulling up and down and the pressure of the water lifting the basket should free up the corrosion and allow you to free it. then drain the water by putting the machine in a drain/spin only mode or by using a Wet/Dry vac. In the field, we use a Pony Pump.

7. Remove the sump cover by removing the 2-1/4in screws and lifting it.

8. You now have to options on servicing the bottom of the machine. I prefer to tilt it on the left side about 45 to 60 degrees from the floor or you can lay it on its left or right side.

9. Remove the rotor by using a 1/4in Allen Wrench or 1/4in to 1/4in hex screw driver bit on a 1/4in socket. You can lock the rotor by placing a small screw driver in one of the large holes and line it up with a hole on the stator under it.

10. Loosen up and disconnect the harnesses from the 2 pumps and black retainers first. You will not be able to disconnect the stator until you remove it. Using a permanant marker, mark the tub where end of the white RPS sensor is(See the top most arrow in the pic below) so you can properly re-align it during re-assembly. Remove the 4 bolts holding in the stator. On some Kenmore Oasis Models, they will be 3/8in bolts. Whirlpool Cabrio/Maytag Bravos will be 5/16in bolts. Disconnect RPS Sensor harness. If your RPS sensor has been replaced after June 2008(estimated date) or your machine was made after June 08, your RPS Sensor and connector might be black and have a different plug than what is in these pics.

11. Remove the pumps by removing the 5/16in screws and clamps. In the picture, I still have the rotor and stator on. Your rotor and stator should be off by now. Disconnect the pressure switch hose, clip and screw, and separate the bracket from the shock shaft.

Beer break…

12. Stand the unit up. Tilt it to the side a bit and place a small bucket, bowl, or 4×4 block of wood under the rotor shaft. I keep a tire stop in my truck for this purpose. In the picture, I used a small thermostat recycling bucket that we keep in the office.

13. Stand the machine up slowly while holding the tub in the center. This will allow the tub to clear the top of the cabinet. It should look like this after your done.

14. Release the shocks by depressing these tabs and push these rings down and clear the shocks from the tub.

15. Remove the tub from the cabinet. Remove any parts that need to be transferred to the new tub. Depending on the model parts might include insulation and retainers, heaters, recirculation tube and bracket.

16. Have a beer and reassemble.


Read more:Kenmore Oasis HE, Whirlpool Cabrio HE, Maytag Bravos HE – The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum – Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help – ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forumshttp://applianceguru.com/forum2/27867.html#ixzz12rGLiCvL

Get appliance parts at http://parts.fixitnow.com

Maytag Performa washer dancing around and banging during spin cycle? You need to replace the snubber assembly. Some tips…

In addition to the washer dancing around and the top banging during the spin cycle, another sure sign that the snubber assembly is bad in your Maytag Performa washer is a bunch of white shavings around the main drive pulley.

The photo below shows an example of what you might see if your Maytag Performa washer snubber assembly is worn down:

Maytag Performa washer with a bad snubber ring assembly

What you see in the photo above are the snubber ring shavings. There is a small raised bead around the ring and when it wears away, it allows the milkstool to drop down an extra 1/4 inch which, in turn, makes the spring tension way to week to keep any type of load balanced without the machine beating itself to death or trying to walk out of the house.

While this isn’t a very difficult job, it does require a complete tear down of the machine.

Sublime Master Willie, from the Samurai School of Appliantology, offers these sage pearls of wisdom to assist you in your repair odyssey:

When I do this job, I remove all the motor wiring and pull the drain hose back into the cabinet and remove the complete outer cabinet.

Then to remove the springs I use metal electric outlet boxes, (6 of them, one for each spring), wedge a box into each spring so they will stay stretched when you remove them. Then gently pull the tub towards each spring as you carefully remove it being carefull not to pull the boxes out of the springs. When you reinstall each spring make sure you get the spring hook in the base plate back up thru the holes and lean the tub towards each spring as you reinstall each one.

Once the wash tub and milkstool assembly is out, turn it upside down on two 4×4’s so it sits nice and sturdy to work on.

Now this is where you need to be very carefull. The brake stator that holds the snubber ring in place is held on by 6 5/16″ bolts and that brake is under like 200pounds of pressure. Carefully back out each screw just a couple of turns, (you will need to back them all out about halfway, just go slow and even and make sure none come all the way out), until you can wiggle the snubber ring out from under the stator and reinstall the new one, tighten the six bolts back down.

Clean the snubber ring surface and the base plate real good with rubbing alcohol and then sprinkle some corn starch on the base plate where the snubber ring rides and put it all back together.

Here’s the part you need: CLICK HERE to see and/or order

Read more: Maytag Performa Washer Tub VERY loose. – http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=11689&forum_id=2#ixzz12r7WJbTr
Get appliance parts at http://parts.fixitnow.com

Here’s the part link to the snubber ring==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Snubber-Ring/1055142?modelNumber=PAV2200AWW

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
http://fixitnow.com

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://applianceguru.com
Facebook==> http://facebook.fixitnow.com
Twitter==> http://twitter.fixitnow.com
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com

How to manually start the harvest cycle on an LG icemaker

Sometimes, you need to manually start the harvest cycle in an ice maker when you’re troubleshooting a problem. Examples would be a mystery leak in the ice bucket or no ice. In the LG ice makers, manually starting the harvest cycle is as simple as pressing a button.

To start the harvest cycle, press and hold the fill key for 3 seconds. The icemaker will run thru:
harvest –> fill –> ice making.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
http://fixitnow.com

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://applianceguru.com
Facebook==> http://facebook.fixitnow.com
Twitter==> http://twitter.fixitnow.com
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com

Dishwashers and hard water: getting the best possible results

Sublime Master Trying to help reveals a few secrets for getting good cleaning results in your dishwasher in hard water conditions:

Contrary to popular belief, you do not want too hot of water in hard water conditions. If you use any of the water heating options (Sani, Temp boost, etc.) try turning them off. If you are in a hard water area you can get flash drying. The water will evaporate off the glasses and plates instead of rinsing off leaving behind grit and all the hard water deposits. You want the water to be at least 125 degrees or so to activate the detergent, but that’s about it. Use a good POWDER detergent (Recommended amount I believe is 1 Tb-spoon per grain of hardness, if you are 10 or more, fill the cups) and boost your rinse aid up to Max.

I describe flash drying to people with this scenario. If you had a GORGEOUS black car, would you wash and wax it in the heat of the day in direct sun? When they say no I ask them why and they state it would leave all the those white spots all over it. This is what happens in the DW. Glasses look like they were rinsed in milk, and fine food particles are left behind. To prove you glasses have hard water (can be cleaned) and not etched (live with the white or chuck them) try filling one up with white vinegar half way and let it soak. If when you rinse it the white is gone from the area the vinegar was, it’s hard water. DW’s need 3 things, Mechanical action (Arms, you state they are spinning fine), Thermal (120-125 to activate detergent) and Chemical (Good quality POWDERED detergent matching the amount to the hardness and use rinse-aide.

Also make sure you are not skipping a fill during the cycle, or have the water siphoning out from the drain line not being looped up high enough or the lack of a siphon break if draining through the floor. If you know the filters are clean, and the arms are all clean and the water is there, and the motor turning, it might just be one of the things I listed.

Also, be sure to check out this post on phosphates and dishwashing detergent==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/22/coping-with-phosphate-free-dishwashing-detergents/

And this one on handling hard water and mineral buildup problems==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/06/handling-hard-water-and-mineral-buildup-in-todays-dishwashers/

Need parts or accessories for your dishwasher? Get ’em here==> http://parts.fixitnow.com

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Manually starting a defrost cycle in newer model Frigidaire/Electrolux refrigerators with ADC

Jargon: ADC = Adaptive Defrost Control. If you don’t know what that means, this post will give you a quick background on it==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/06/27/adapting-to-adaptive-defrost/

This procedure applies to the newer model Frigidaire/Electrolux refrigerators with ADC. Example model number: PHSC39EESS

To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key
while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds.

A “d” in the freezer temperature window and “F” in the refrigerator temperature window
will display when the heater is activated.

“d” and “F” will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)

To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key
while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds.

Buy parts for your refrigerator here==> http://parts.fixitnow.com

Handling the U1 error code on a Fisher-Paykel DD602 dishdrawer

The U1 error code on these early-model F-P DD602 dishdrawers means that you need to set the water pressure to be either HP (high pressure) or LP (low pressure). Here’s how to do that:

– Turn on the drawer and open it

– Press the PROGRAM CHANGING and ECO buttons at the same time, wait about five seconds and the screen will show HP or LP

– Press the START/PAUSE button and the setting will change, the sound pitch will also sound high or low

– Turn off and test

Free appliance repair help via Twitter

After the stunning success of the Repair Manuals via Twitter experiment started a couple weeks ago (see http://fixitnow.com/?p=5395), I am bloated with pleasure to announce that we are expanding the program to include all appliance repair help. Just tweet your most intimate appliance repair questions to @FixitnowSamurai and he’ll reply ASAP via Twitter. Here’s how:

1. Get a Twitter account (if you don’t already have one), it’s FREE: http://twitter.com
2. Tweet me your appliance repair questions– just start your message with “@fixitnowsamurai”
3. You don’t need to follow me on Twitter unless you want a repair manual. Read more: http://fixitnow.com/?p=5395. But if you’d like to follow me on Twitter, you can do so here==> http://www.twitter.com/FixitnowSamurai

Most questions can probably be successfully handled via Twitter. If it’s not a problem amenable to the Twitter venue– for example, needs photos, videos, diagrams to explain or answer– then I’ll let you know and we can take it up in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums==> http://applianceguru.com

Follow FixitnowSamurai on Twitter

RepairClinic launches new state-of-the art website with a new parts search engine and expanded product line

On Wednesday, Oct. 6, 2010, RepairClinic.com launched a new state-of-the-art website to provide customers with the highest quality service. This new site features, among other innovations, a new part-search engine loaded with additional part information; a more refined, but customer-friendly checkout process; and expanded product lines.

RepairClinic.com new product lines include outdoor power equipment, and vacuum cleaners. They offer both OEM and after-market parts for 24 brands of walk-behind lawn mowers, riding lawn mowers, zero turn radius (ZTR) lawn mowers, and small engines. They are also offering an entire inventory of OEM replacement parts and accessories for seven brands of vacuum cleaners.

New Features of RepairClinic.com:

Part Replacement Videos
RepairClinic.com has revolutionized the do-it-yourself world by producing step-by-step, high-definition part-replacement videos. Each video demonstrates complete disassembly, part replacement, and reassembly of the appliance. If a part-replacement video is available, a video icon will appear below the part description. We currently offer over 100 part-replacement videos and are producing over 40 new videos each month.

Search No Further
RepairClinic.com newly enhanced “Shop for Parts” search engine is unlike any other in the appliance-parts industry today: it unites customers with their parts more quickly and easily than ever before. The part selections are titled more clearly for easier identification and there inventory of parts are re-categorized for more accurate search results. Searches can be generated from menus or keywords, and customers can select or deselect search criteria at any time and in any order; generating a new set of results each time.

It’s All In the Details
Identifying parts is made easier with there “Part Detail” page which gives clear and precise part descriptions and displays larger part images. Most part images appear on a 1-square-inch grid, and can be viewed at twice their size for a more detailed view of the part. Many parts also have a “RepairGuru® Tip” offering additional helpful information about the part. They assign a skill-level rank to many parts: “one wrench” means an easy repair; “four wrenches” means a difficult repair and may need a repair technician.

Location, Location, Location
Providing a model number generates the most accurate result when searching for a part. RepairClinic.com exclusive “Model Number Identification” videos help customers identify the product’s model-number tag and its location on the product. Each video displays a rotating 3-D computer-generated illustration of the product showing clear views of possible tag locations. Also available for quick reference are static 3-D illustrations of each product for possible tag locations.

The Buck Stops Here
RepairClinic.com new and innovative checkout process allows customers to view, modify, and complete their order with ease. They have combined all of the checkout information onto one page to simplify the process. Customers complete each section, and review their order before submission to prevent any errors. A clear, concise order-confirmation page appears for printing for the customers’ records.

No Need For a Bloodhound
Tracking an order is now available directly from there website. Customers click on “Order Tracking” from any page on the website, “Log In” to their account, and click on the order number they want to track. Customers will view the ship date, shipment method, and the tracking number linked to the carrier. Customers can still contact “Customer Service” for order information, but online access is now much quicker and easier.