The LG front loading washers don’t use your typical belt and motor drive arrangement to move the wash basket. Instead, they use an ingenious, magnetic drive system consisting of an stator and a rotor; more about these in this post.

A Hall Effect sensor is used to let the control board know the position and speed of the drum rotor in these washer. in earlier versions, Hall Effect sensors were a common-fail item because, despite shelling out over a $1,000 for a top-notch washing machine, people would try to save a few pennies by not using HE detergent despite the manufacturers clear instructions to do so. Can you say, “penny wise, dollar dumb?” More about using non-HE detergents in this post. BTW, using non-HE detergents in your high-efficiency front loading washer is also a great way to help bring on early drum bearing failure.

Anyway, Sublime Master john63 in the Samurai School of Appliantology enlightens us with some background info on the Hall Effect sensors in LG washers and their design changes in response to boneheads who refuse to use HE detergent:

Older LG washers had a weaker version of the sensor.

Newer (late ’07/early ’08) LG washers have a HALL EFFECT SENSOR with a more “ROBUST” resistor.

Both different sensors have the same part number but a different color *dot* on it.

All older sensors were destroyed & should not be in any inventory.

Part of the SUDS detection software is thru the HALL EFFECT SENSOR.

Most failed/failing HALL EFFECT SENSORS will trigger an “LE” error–but not always. On occasion–the motor will *growl* or exhibit a pronounced labored-effort sound.

Incorrect type and/or amount of detergent use—destroys the older HALL EFFECT SENSORS. Newer sensors are nearly immune to the higher electrical load placed upon it (suds drags/slows tub during high-speed spin).

Here’s the part link to the latest Hall Effect sensor used in LG washing machines, notice the red dot==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Sensor/1268238?modelNumber=WM2032HW

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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A common-fail item in Fisher Paykel top loading washers is the diverter valve. This little doodad switches the water discharge flow from the pump to either recirculate in the tub or to drain out the drain hose. If you’re having problems either draining water or water coming into the tub and the draining right out, the first thing to check is the diverter valve.

Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies, DADoESTX, in the Samurai School of Appliantology, shares with us a quick and easy test of the diverter valve and control board:

If it’s recirculating properly for the Eco Active wash period, and continuing to recirculate during drain, then either the diverter is physically bad/jammed from switching position … or the controller board may be bad, sending power to the diverter continuously.

Fill the machine with water, then disconnect it from power for a while to insure the diverter is cooled and switched to drain mode (assuming it’s not jammed). Connect power and quickly set the machine to the final spin. If it drains without recirculating, the diverter is switching modes properly. Pause the cycle for a few minutes, restart the final spin again. If it recirculates, then the diverter has switched modes due to receiving power when it shouldn’t– bad control board.

Note also that the diverter can be activated/tested in Diagnostic Mode with the Delicate cycle button (same as Regular cycle button operates the pump). Delicate by itself only turns the diverter on or off (takes a couple mins for the wax motor to heat/cool and shift the valve). The pump must also be run to get either recirculation or draining.

IWL (Intuitive Eco) models, Fabric Care button runs the pump, Home buttons runs the diverter.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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On some older LG front loading washing machines, you’ll see a button called “Spin Sense.” The instructions on the panel say to press and hold for three seconds to activate. When you do, you’ll hear a chime but the machine seems to run the same way and you can’t even tell if the feature is working. Wassup w’dat “Spin Sense” bidness?

Sublime Master john63 from the Samurai School of Appliantology enlightens us with some background information on the Spin Sense™ technology:

SPIN SENSE is an older LG washer option.

Before the introduction of LGs “True Balance” technology (balance ring & inertia sensor)–the SPIN SENSE option was available.

For reasons that I’ve never been able to find—all LG washers were shipped from the factory with the SPIN SENSE option “disabled”.

To “enable” SPIN SENSE—Power on the washer. Select any cycle. Press the Start Button. Wait for the door to lock–single “click” sound. Press & hold a selector button (which indicates spin sense) for 3 to 6 seconds.

The SPIN SPEED indicator light will blink “on” & “off”. If the SPIN SPEED indicator does NOT blink at all—SPIN SENSE is not active (disabled).

Once SPIN SENSE has been enabled—it will remain so permanently (SPIN SPEED indicator light always blinks after door locks). To deactivate SPIN SENSE–simply repeat the procedure used to “enable” it. The SPIN SPEED indicator will stop “blinking”.

HOW DOES SPIN SENSE WORK?

The SPIN SENSE feature is primitive by today’s standards.

For the most part—SPIN SENSE does absolutely *nothing* unless a certain condition occurs—a violent imbalanced spin.

At which point the MAIN BOARD will slow down the spin speed by 50 RPM to reduce the severity of the imbalanced spin.

That’s all it does—nothing fancy.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Example model number: ATF7000EG0

You may or may not see a fault code with this problem. Here’s an example of how this problem appeared to a Grasshopper in the Samurai School of Appliantology:

After shutting the door and pushing start on the washer you can hear the door locking mechanism engage and a quick check of the door shows that the door is indeed locked. Once the door locks the typical “hum” that is heard at the beginning of the cycle is heard and you can also hear what I assume is relays or a relay engaging but you never hear water flowing and within about 10-15 seconds the cycle stops and the door unlocks. No error codes are displayed.

In situations like this, it’s always a good idea to put the washer control console into service mode and see if there are any error codes that may be stored there. Here’s how:

READING ERROR CODES:

1. Wake the washer by pressing any button.
2. Wait 5 seconds.
3. Press and HOLD the Start/Pause and Cancel buttons simultaneously.

As long as the buttons are held, the failure code will appear in the display as an E followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash.

Quick Check

If there is no error displayed and the washer momentarily starts then turns back off:

1. Listen for a relay closure inside the motor control shortly after the Start/Pause key is pressed. If this happens, the motor control has power.

2. Check the 5 pin connector wiring between the console control and the motor control.

NOTE: During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” – deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” – cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” – door problem.
“Err” – an error has been detected.
“LOC” – control lock is activated.
“PAU” – cycle has been interrupted.

BTW, I’m getting all this good info from the tech sheet that comes supplied with every Frigidaire and Electrolux washing machine and is cleverly hidden inside the cabinet of the machine. Remove the toe panel to get to it. If someone “borrowed” yours and forgot to return it, you can borrow mine; just be sure to return it!

Some models of Affinity washers, such as ATF7000EG0, have a water heating element to boost water temperature. The element is mounted in the bottom of the outer tub. If there’s a problem with the water heating circuit, you’ll see an error code E68 in the display while in service mode. This means, “Current leakage to ground on heater or fuse opened.”

In reality, most the time you’ll see the heating element simply fail open as heating elements are prone to do. You can check continuity of the element from the back of the washer. Remove the back panel and look to the bottom of the tub, you’ll see the heating element terminals like ahso:

(click to enlarge)

You should read around 14 ohms on a good heating element. If the heating element is open or reads a very high resistance, then you need to replace it. Come git you one==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Heating-Element/1191170

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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