A common-fail item in Fisher Paykel top loading washers is the diverter valve. This little doodad switches the water discharge flow from the pump to either recirculate in the tub or to drain out the drain hose. If you’re having problems either draining water or water coming into the tub and the draining right out, the first thing to check is the diverter valve.
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies, DADoESTX, in the Samurai School of Appliantology, shares with us a quick and easy test of the diverter valve and control board:
If it’s recirculating properly for the Eco Active wash period, and continuing to recirculate during drain, then either the diverter is physically bad/jammed from switching position … or the controller board may be bad, sending power to the diverter continuously.
Fill the machine with water, then disconnect it from power for a while to insure the diverter is cooled and switched to drain mode (assuming it’s not jammed). Connect power and quickly set the machine to the final spin. If it drains without recirculating, the diverter is switching modes properly. Pause the cycle for a few minutes, restart the final spin again. If it recirculates, then the diverter has switched modes due to receiving power when it shouldn’t– bad control board.
Note also that the diverter can be activated/tested in Diagnostic Mode with the Delicate cycle button (same as Regular cycle button operates the pump). Delicate by itself only turns the diverter on or off (takes a couple mins for the wax motor to heat/cool and shift the valve). The pump must also be run to get either recirculation or draining.
IWL (Intuitive Eco) models, Fabric Care button runs the pump, Home buttons runs the diverter.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man