Monthly Archives: April 2011

#Appliantology Newsletter, April 2011: #Refrigerator and #IceMaker Maintenance

Refrigerator and Ice Maker Maintenance

We’re trying out a new concept for a newsletter here in Samurai-land. In
addition to the quarterly (or so) full-blown newsletter with lots of
diverse information, we’re going to experiment with a monthly, shorter
issue that focuses on scheduled preventative maintenance tips for specific
appliances. Let us know whatcha think. If it’s not useful to you, then
please lemme know ‘cuz, if that’s the case, then I’d rather be out hiking
in the mountains instead of playing tippety-tap on the keyboard.

This being early Spring, we usually start getting lots of refrigerator and
ice maker service calls. Here are some things you can do that may help
avoid a service call on these cold appliances.

Refrigerator or stand-alone Freezer

Manual Defrost Refrigerator or Freezer

On manual-defrost refrigerator/freezers, check for frost build up in the
freezer. If there’s more than half an inch, it’s time for a defrosting.
Remove all the food, unplug the unit, and block open the door to let all
the frost melt. On upright units, this can make a wet mess on the floor so
put some towels down. On chest freezers, there will either be a drain or
all the water will collect in the bottom and can then be sponged out.

NEVER ever even think about using a putty knife or any kind of sharp metal
to scrape the frost off. It is very easy to puncture the evaporator and
ruin the refrigerator. Ain’t no going back from that one, Hoss.

Automatic Defrost Refrigerator or Freezer

On self-defrosting refrigerator/freezers, clean the drain pan underneath
the refrigerator that collects water (Some are not accessible. Don’t worry
if you can’t find yours). No need to go crazy, just wipe out the dog hair
and dried gookus so you don’t get a scum floatilla with stinkus when the
flood of condensate starts with the more humid weather.

Clean the refrigerator cooling fan and the condenser coils. The coils are
underneath the refrigerator. They are usually black and look like a series
of small tubes and “fins” connecting the tubes. Order a refrigerator
condenser brush to make the job easier:

Check the door seals to be sure they are sealing properly against the frame
of the refrigerator/freezer. While you can get by with weak seals during
the colder, dryer winter months, they’ll let in lots of heat and moisture
during the humid, warm summer months and cause all kinda weird problems
inside the box. Do the Federal Reserve Note test: take your favorite
Federal Reserve Note and close the door on it, then give it a tug. Should
require some tension to pull it out. If not, that’s a weak spot in the
gasket. Do this all the way around the both doors.

If the gaskets are torn, or don’t seal properly, the refrigerator or
freezer may not cool properly. You may also start seeing frost formations
in weird locations inside the beer compartment or the freezer. This
problem is worse when the weather is warmer and more humid. Clean the
gaskets and frame with warm soapy water so they don’t stick to the frame.

Inspect the back wall of the freezer for any frost build up. It’s not
normal to have any frost on the back wall or floor of a self-defrosting
appliance. The presence of frost is normally an indication the
self-defrosting system has a problem. You can remove the back wall inside
the freezer to get some eyeballs on the evaporator coil. This page will
help you interpret what you see:

For help troubleshooting warm refrigerator problems, use our warm
refrigerator flowchart:

Ice Maker

If you have a built-in ice/water filter, replace the filter approximately
every six months. If you don’t have a water filter, and you find your ice
tastes bad and/or smells funny, use a “taste and odor” water filter on the
incoming water supply line. A universal water filter will fix ya right up.

We carry filters for all refrigerator brands and models:

If you don’t have an icemaker, consider installing one now before the
Department of Energy outlaws them. No chit, Mon, they’re really moving to
do exactly that, see this topic at the Samurai School of Appliantology for
more info:

Many people don’t realize that virtually all refrigerators are set up to
easily accept an add-on icemaker. Many refrigerators have a tag inside the
freezer at the back that gives a kit number indicating exactly what kind of
icemaker will fit in that refrigerator. We carry add-on icemaker kits that
fit virtually every refrigerator/freezer on the market, most are
conveniently laid out for you on this page:

If you’re having a problem with your refrigerator, freezer, or ice maker,
come get free help from the appliantological masters in the Samurai School
of Appliantology:


Samurai Appliance Repair Man

How to fix a scorched muthaboard in a #GE #refrigerator

Your GE fridge is on the fritz and not keeping the brewskis cold anymore. So you go behind the fridge, remove the metal cover on the muthaboard compartment and SHAZAYYAM, looky yonder…

GE refrigerator scorched muthaboard
(click for larger view)

How does a brutha fix this sucka? Ain’t but one way, Hoss: replace that mutha. Come git you a new muthaboard ratcheer.

Easy to install, just sing along with the destructions that come bundled with the new board. Good to go, sailor.

You may be wondering, “But dearly besotted Samurai, won’t the new board just blow again unless the cause of the failure is identified and correctified?”

Interesting modification of the word, “corrected,” grasshoppah.

The answer is that these electrolytic capacitors will just blow out like that without anything else necessarily being bad. But here’s a little secret: If you buy the new board through my part link, install it and it blows again in less than a year, return it for a full refund! It’s the best deal you’re gonna get all day and it makes for a risk-free repair.

Now go forth and conquer!

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Entering & using diagnostic mode on #Frigidaire top load #washer

Example model number: LTF2940ES3

Diagnostic Test:
The diagnostic test is performed by using the Program Knob.

• On digital display models, turn the Program Knob to start position, Touch Up.
(NOTE: If the model has a timer dial that can be rotated 360°, turn the Program Knob to start position, Drain/Spin.
• Press Pause Cancel to turn off LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and Pause Cancel buttons until LEDs start sequentially chasing, then release buttons.

1. All the LEDs will sequentially light. Pressing a button below a light cluster will light all the LEDs in that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the start position. The hot water solenoid will activate and hot water should enter through the detergent compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and cold water should enter through the bleach compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids will activate and cold water should enter through the softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will activate.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and the loading door can be opened.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and tumble.
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and spin (leakage test).
9. Turn the program knob (8) clicks from the start position. The drain pump and door lock solenoid will activate and the
washer will operate in high spin. SAFETY WARNING: If power is removed during this test, the door can be opened.
To prevent injury, DO NOT put your hands inside when the tub is rotating.
10. Turn the program knob (9) clicks from the start position. The control will signal the last error code.

Exiting Diagnostic Mode
There are two options for exiting the Diagnostic Test mode and returning the washer to normal operation:
a ) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord OR
b ) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after the Start Position. Press Options and Pause Cancel buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle LEDs appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the Diagnostic mode as described above and the bank of 5 LED’s on the right end remain ON regardless of Program Knob position,
a combination of pushed buttons may have caused the control to enter a special factory test mode.
Disconnect power to reset the control to return washer to normal operation is this occurs.

For manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice in the Samurai School of Appliantology==>

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here

How to test the touchpad on a #GE Profile #walloven

If you’re getting an error code on your GE wall oven and you’re not sure whether the bad actor is the touchpad or the electronic range control (ERC) board, use this cheat sheet to test the touchpad. If the touchpad checks out good, then replace the ERC. Ees seemple, da?

Ge Wall Oven Touchpad Ohm Test

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Putting a #Samsung #refrigerator into forced #defrost mode

If you’re troubleshooting a defrosting problem with your Samsung refrigerator, one of the first things you’ll want to do is manually put it into defrost mode so you can use your meter and see if the control board is sending 120vac to the defrost heater. Here’s the procedure that’ll work for most current Samsung refrigerator models:

Samsung Refrigerator Forced Defrost RS2534WW RS2534VQ RS2556WW RS2556BB RS2556SH RS2578WW RS2578BB RS2578SH

To buy parts for your Samsung refrigerator, click here.

Whirlpool dryer hums & kicks off or only runs a short time then kicks off

First, open the door and turn the drum by hand to make sure it’s not seized. If the drum won’t turn or is very hard to turn, then you may have either bad drum rollers or something stuck in the blower.

Okay, so the drum movement seems normal. Now you need to see if you’re getting voltage to the motor. Use the wiring diagram supplied with the dryer for the wires on which to check for voltage at the motor. Usually, it’s the blue and white wires. If you need help figuring this out, come start a new topic in the Laundry forum and we’ll get you going.

If you’re getting 120vac to the motor, then the motor is bad. You’ll need to replace it, click on the motor pic below to order; one year guarantee! Easy job– you can watch a how-to video on this page.

And you might as well do the maintenance kit while you’re in there; includes the belt, idler, and drum rollers.

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Other suggested items:

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To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Disassembling the dispenser on an LG LRSC SxS refrigerator

LG LRSC SxS Refrigerator Dispenser Disassembly

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.