Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man » Dryer Repair

How to test a dryer cycling thermostat

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 19:26:00 +0000

When you run your dryer, whether gas or electric, the heat will turn on and off to maintain the temperature within the range selected on the control panel (cottons, permapress, knits, etc.). The temperature is controlled by a device called a cycling thermostat. If your dryer isn’t heating at all or is staying too hot for the entire cycle, one of the things you’ll want to check is this cycling thermostat. It’s easy! This slick how-to video shows you ezzacly how to to do it:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

How to disassemble an LG dryer to remove a sock or something stuck in the blower

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Sat, 03 Dec 2011 20:07:56 +0000

So your dryer powers up, you select a cycle and push start and the dryer hums for a coupla seconds and then goes quiet for a while. This usually indicates something is blocking the drum from rotating. A sock stuck in the blower would do it.

A quick test to see if you have a drum blockage problem is to simply open the door and try to turn the drum by hand. If you can’t turn the drum manually, ain’t no way that dinky motor in there is gonna turn it, ether! Can I hear an, “A-freakin-men?”

If you need to get inside the dryer to remove a sock stuck in the blower or some other rolling problem, Sublime Master john63 over at the Appliantology appliance repair forums steps us over the rice paper without a single tear or wrinkle ==> LINK

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Tech sheet location and thermistor information for Samsung dryers

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Sat, 09 Jul 2011 11:38:16 +0000

Sublime Master of Appliantology john63 at the Samurai School of Appliantology enlightens us on two key aspects of Samsung dryers: tech sheet location and thermistor operation.

On the rear/back of the dryer—there’s a TECH SHEET in a plastic pouch.

On the sheet—you’ll find the test values for various components.

THERMISTORS can fail and still not trigger an error display. Check the OHMS value (at room temperature) with a test meter.

Also, the thermistor is not in series with the heat element, the thermostat is.

The thermistor detects temp changes in the dryer by changes in resistance, which are interpreted by the control determining when to turn the heat on and off…

The THERMISTOR has a *coating* on it that becomes scratched/chipped over time by tiny particles in the blower housing. The salty air then corrodes the THERMISTOR (no heat at all).

Read more: Samsung DV337AEG Repair

(click image to purchase – 365-day return policy)

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here

How to disassemble a Whirlpool Duet Sport dryer (also sold under the Kenmore label)

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Wed, 06 Jul 2011 13:12:16 +0000

You may need to tear down this dryer for a variety of reasons: replace the belt, drum rollers, heating element, etc. This video shows you how to do it the right way:

Common replacement parts in the Whirlpool Duet Sport dryer (click to see photo and/or purchase):

Heating Element Assembly

Thermal Fuse and High Limit Thermostat

Drum Roller

Drive Motor

Blower Wheel

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

How to replace the drum rollers in a good ol’ Maytag dryer

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Sat, 25 Jun 2011 18:15:24 +0000

mark wrote:

looking for instructions on replacing rollers on an older Maytag dryer model LDG7304AAE

Piece of pie, tovarish! First, come git you a pair of drum rollers.

(Click image)

Even though it’s usually the roller above the heating element or flame tube that usually goes out first, it’s always a good idea to replace both as long as you’re going through the trouble of tearing down the dryer to fix it.

Speaking of tearing down and fixing, this nifty repair video shows you how to replace the drum rollers in this venerable dryer:

If you run into anything weird, come start a new topic in the laundry forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll get you going.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

How to fix a dryer that won’t stay hot during the cycle or doesn’t get hot enough

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 14:49:07 +0000

Peter wrote:

We have a GE dryer model DDG7280SBLWW, S/N GL315788G. The problem is the dryer does not stay hot though the entire cycle for any of the cyles (automatic of timed). When the dryer is turned on for any cycle it initially gets hot and comes up to temperatur, vent pipe hot to touch but not burning hot, then the heat cycles off and does not heat back up. The dryer will run though the rest of the cycle and when it turns off the clotes are cold and damp. I removed the vent cap outside the house and cleanned the vent pipe and dryer to make sure we have sufficient air flow but no change in the dryer performance. We called a tech who came in and started replacing parts (i believe all the sensers, coils on the gas valve, timer & timer knob) but we still have the problem. They have sent differnet people to the house but it has been 2 weeks and the dryer still isn’t working. Wife near point of leaving. There is good and bad in all situations. Please help.

This is a classic symptom of a vent duct with too much backpressure. Vents can be clear of lint and still have excessive backpressure. You can easily test this by disconnecting the vent from the back of the dryer and run it again while observing the burner on/off cycle. I’m sure you’ll see normal heating operation.

Get the gory details on how to make a good dryer vent in this post:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/10/15/appliance-tip-of-the-day-the-ultimate-dryer-venting-guide/

If you need more help, come see us in the Samurai School of Appliantology and start a new topic in the Laundry Forum: http://appliantology.org

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology

http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts

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How to fix an electric dryer that runs but won’t get hot or heat up at all

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:22:50 +0000

Ana wrote:

Kenmore Elite dryer not heating. I have replaced the heater element 2 mos ago and just replaced for the 2nd time along with the thermal fuse. Still not heating. Help!

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

Dryer runs a few seconds, kicks out and has to cool down for a few minutes before it can restart

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Tue, 14 Jun 2011 01:40:10 +0000

Keith wrote:

I have an unruly LG DLE 5932 dryer that will run for about 30-seconds, then shuts off. I can wait about 2 minutes cylye it again sometimes it will start run another 30-seconed, and shut off.. Sometimes it won’t run at all. I smell a faint smell of “hot” from the left side of the drum.. Can you offer any dicipline for this naughty dryer??

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

Mailbag: Why does my dryer shut off after running only a few minutes?

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Sat, 11 Jun 2011 14:20:20 +0000

Stacy wrote:

I have a Maytag PYE2200AYW electric dryer. We had problems a few weeks ago and discovered that the blower wheel was cracked, so we replaced it (part # 31001317). Then a couple days later it just stops and won’t turn back on until it cools off. We figured it was the Thermostat and /or high limit fuse, so we replaced both of those (part # LA-1053). Thought all was well and tried a load of towels. It ran for about 20 minutes and then shut off again. Now it won’t turn back on even after it has cooled. The vents are clear, and we can’t figure out what it causing it to shut off.
Please Help!

The motor has an internal thermal overload protector that’s tripping. It does this when the motor overheats. The motor overheats because it’s either drawing too much current or it’s blanketed in a layer of lint, which acts as insulation.

There’s a lot more to a proper dryer vent than just being clear. Start by checking your dryer vent in accordance with the scriptures on this page:

Appliance Tip of the Day: The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide

Next step is to disassemble the dryer and vacuum the lint off the motor. If you need help disassembling your dryer, we can give you specific instructions in the Samurai School of Appliantology, just start a new topic in The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum.

If neither correcting the vent or cleaning the motor does the trick, then it means the motor itself is drawing too much current and overheating. You’ll need to replace the motor:

Click image to purchase. One year warranty on this part.

Mailbag: GE dryer stopped working and now won’t turn on

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 17:34:35 +0000

Shannon wrote:

My dryer stopped working. Will not turn on. I think it over heated and need to know which thermostat to replace on it. It’s a GE DHDSR46EG2WW

Start at the thermal fuse mounted on the heater pan under the hood. If it tests open with an ohm meter, you need to replace it. Buy the replacement here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/276438?modelNumber=DHDSR46EG2WW

If you need help getting inside your dryer, testing the thermal fuse and installing the new one, go to the Samurai School of Appliantology at www.appliantology.org and start a new topic in the Laundry Forum. We’re here to help!

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology

http://appliantology.org

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Mailbag: Dryer keeps blowing thermal fuses

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Sat, 14 May 2011 17:01:04 +0000

Kelley wrote:

Whirlpool Duet Dryer (WED9200SQ1) keeps blowing thermal fuse. I replaced Themistor and Thermal Fuse and ran one load fine. Trying to start a 2nd load and thermal fuse blew again. All lights come on but it won’t run. I then replaced the Theramal Cut-off and High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Fuse and ran one load fine again and blew the Thermal Fuse on the 2nd load. The lint screen is clean, and exhaust is only 5 ft long and clean. I checked the heater element with a meter and it doesn’t appear to be grounded. I also took the heater element out and inspected it and it looks good. When running the exhaust seems strong and warm. I then by-passed the thermal fuse and ran the machine checking things. In automatic mode the heater element heated up, eventually turned off and then turned back on like I think it should. However, when I ran “air only” I noticed the heater element start glowing red and I shut it down. Also, during that test I noticed that the blower seemed to not run continuous. It seemed to be pulsing. I’m not sure what to check next. Any help would be appreciated.

Thermal fuses blow because of a problem with air flow and this is usually in the venting system. If you’re using the slinky-type vent hose, it could be crimped or have a bad case of what we professional appliantologts call, “venterialsclorosis,” like ahso:

Poorly-constructed dryer vents are also the single biggest cause of dryer-related household fires, too. You don’t wanna end up like this guy:

See my award-winning tome, The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide for details on constructing a good, safe dryer vent.

Also be sure to check the vent exhaust hood outside the house, make sure it doesn’t look like this:

If you need more help figuring out what’s wrong with your dryer, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Understanding the water system in the LG condensing steam dryers

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Fri, 13 May 2011 13:11:26 +0000

This is LG’s line of condensing dryers (no vent) that use steam injected into the drum during the dry cycle to prevent wrinking. Example model number is WM3431HW.

A common problem is for too much cold water to come in to the drum during the drying cycle, leaving the clothes soggy.

Sublime Master john63 in the The Samurai School of Appliantology illumines us with a basic understanding of what’s going on here:

The COLD WATER VALVE ASSY consists of (3) valves.

The valve on the right side (if facing the front of the washer) is a *Misting* Valve that sends a cold mist into the Duct Assy behind the tub. This cold mist helps to convert *steam* from the tub (during the dry cycle) back to a condensation/liquid form.

As your’re aware—this then begins to pool in the Sump Boot & Drain Pump Assy—to be periodically pumped/drained from the combo washer/dryer.

When this valve becomes faulty—too much cold water enters the Duct & Tub (wet laundry).

More info in this topic at the Samurai School of Appliantology… http://appliantology.org/topic/31016-lg-wm3431hw-dryer/

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Whirlpool dryer hums & kicks off or only runs a short time then kicks off

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Fri, 22 Apr 2011 03:18:45 +0000

First, open the door and turn the drum by hand to make sure it’s not seized. If the drum won’t turn or is very hard to turn, then you may have either bad drum rollers or something stuck in the blower.

Okay, so the drum movement seems normal. Now you need to see if you’re getting voltage to the motor. Use the wiring diagram supplied with the dryer for the wires on which to check for voltage at the motor. Usually, it’s the blue and white wires. If you need help figuring this out, come start a new topic in the Laundry forum and we’ll get you going.

If you’re getting 120vac to the motor, then the motor is bad. You’ll need to replace it, click on the motor pic below to order; one year guarantee! Easy job– you can watch a how-to video on this page.

And you might as well do the maintenance kit while you’re in there; includes the belt, idler, and drum rollers.

Other suggested items:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Replacing the rear bearing in a GE / Frigidaire dryer

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Thu, 24 Mar 2011 19:57:30 +0000

Frigidaire used to make dryers for GE (example model number: WSM2700HBWWW) back when GE was too busy building shoddy Mark 1 nuclear power plants to build their own shoddy dryers; those came later… and they’re pretty damn shoddy. The Frigidaire-built units were better, though not nearly as good as the Whirlpool units with the lint filter in the top panel.

Anyway, if your Frigidaire-built GE dryer– or if your Frigidaire-built Frigidaire dryer– is making a squealing noise in back, you probably need to replace the rear bearing kit.

Here’s the link to the bearing kit which includes a how-to video:

(click it to git it, Hoss)

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Whirlpool Duet electric dryer- three fast beeps when you press the start cycle button

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Wed, 23 Mar 2011 23:16:52 +0000

Example model number: GEW9200

This problem is caused by a bad door switch. Here’s the link to the door switch, click the picture:

(click for larger view)

You can test using an ohmmeter. There are 3 prongs on switch, identified as C,NC, and NO.

C-NC should be closed circuit until you push switch and then it should be open.

C-NO should be open circuit until you push switch and then read closed.

Buying the switch through this site is a risk-free proposition because you can return the switch for a refund if that doesn’t fix it.

Disassembling an LG electric dryer to test or replace the thermostat and thermal limiter

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Mon, 07 Mar 2011 04:33:20 +0000

Let’s listen with amazement as Sublime Master john63 from the Samurai School of Appliantology unveils the mysteries of disassembling an LG dryer. This particular procedure was for model number DLE7177WM but is largely applicable to all current LG models.

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 “phillips” screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws are at the rear of the top cover.

3) Slide the top cover rearward about an inch & lift-off.

4) Open the DOOR of the dryer & remove 2 screws under the *opening*. Roughly located at the 5 and 7 O’clock locations.

5) Standing in front of the dryer & looking behind the control panel—unplug all wire connections to the MAIN BOARD.

6) Now remove the screws from the *corners* of the CONTROL PANEL (Note: Some dryers only have one screw on the right side

7) Grasp the top of the CONTROL PANEL & forcefully “peel” the panel off (This plastic is tough).
With the CONTROL PANEL removed—you’ll notice 4 screws that secure the FRONT COVER. Remove those & slowly tilt the FRONT COVER towards you—disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG. Set aside the front cover. Step back & look at the front of the dryer. On the lower right side is a *white* plug. Squeeze the tab on this plug & pull apart to disconnect. This is the plug for the MOISTURE SENSOR. (During re-assembly—don’t forget this little guy).

9) Grab a FELT-TIP MARKER & place a *dot* next to the 2 screws on the front of the *silver* bracket that the CONTROL PANEL *snaps* onto. Then remove the 2 screws. Remove the other 2 screws at the top of the *silver* bracket and remove the silver bracket by pulling upward.

10) Remove 4 screws at each corner (or ear) of the FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY.

11) Pull the SUPPORT ASSY upward & towards you–set aside.

12) Grab the DRUM & rotate counterclockwise while pulling towards you. The belt will slip off. Remove the DRUM.

13) You’ll see a silver/square box on the right-hand side. Pull off the wires to the THERMAL LIMITER & test it for *continuity* with the test meter. If “open”—replace the THERMAL LIMITER and the other THERMOSTAT next to it.

14) If the THERMAL LIMITER has failed—the home exhaust vent *must* be cleaned. 100%.

15) Use a shop vac to clean everything up.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Easy troubleshooting technique for a no-heat electric dryer

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Mon, 28 Feb 2011 00:49:22 +0000

First, verify that you have 240 VAC at the power cord terminal on the dryer. No cheating here! You gotta get eyeballs and meter on that terminal ‘cuz you might find something like this:

Okay, if it passes the Essential Eyeball Test®, then it’s time to put your meter on it. Check for the voltages as shown in the diagram below:

(click to enlarge)

If all that looks good, then and only then are you ready to look for trouble inside the dryer. Here’s a spiffy troubleshooting technique for splitting the problem in half, L1 side from the L2 side, developed by Sublime Master RegUS_PatOff, a sensei at the Samurai School of Appliantology:

Set the Dryer to run a Regular Heat Cycle.
Keep the Door open so the Drum Motor (and Heater) doesn’t run.
Test for 120v AC from each side of each Thermal device to chassis (ground).
and from each side of Heater to chassis (ground).

With the Door open, and the Drum Motor not running, that disconnects L2 power.
L1 power should flow all the way through, from the Timer, (120v measured to chassis, ground) and from each side of the following:
Operating Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Heater Element, all the way up to one side of the Motor Centrifugal Switch,
The other side of the Centrifugal Switch will (should) have 120v to chassis (ground), but that would be from L2.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

“Steam technology” part of Whirlpool’s latest dryer?

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Wed, 16 Feb 2011 23:01:24 +0000

From a Whirlpool press release:

Steam relaxes wrinkles and removes odors from garments inside the Whirlpool Duet Steam dryer.

Using the water line from the washer to spray a fine mist on clothes, the dryer converts water into steam that lifts out odors and smoothes wrinkles as it penetrates fabrics. A 15-minute Quick Refresh cycle applies this feature to clothing that isn’t dirty but merely needs deodorizing and de-wrinkling. And a 20-minute Enhanced Touch-Up cycle performs the same tasks on clean clothing left for long periods in the dryer drum after drying is completed. Other dryer features include the AccelerCare system, which minimizes drying time so that loads in both a washer and dryer are completed in more nearly the same time periods. Whirlpool has already begun training authorized service personnel in the technology and service procedures on the product, which has a suggested retail price of $999.

In fact, the Whirlpool “steam dryer” unit just sprays a mist of cold water on the clothes to remove the wrinkles and the heat of the dryer works with this mist to remove wrinkles and odors.

Sounds gimmicky to me.

LG apparently thinks so, too, because they’re suing Whirlpool for using the words “Steam Dryer.” The LG steam dryers have a steam generator that actually makes steam for the clothes to remove wrinkles and odors.

I suppose that technically the Whirlpool dryer is a stream dryer if you’re calling the warmed-up mist steam. But, by that definition, all dryers are “steam dryers” because, as long as the clothes are wet, there is a vapor pressure of steam in the air space inside the drum.

If that’s what you mean, then how ’bout just dampen your wrinkled clothes that sat in the dryer too long with a spray bottle and run ‘em another 10 minutes?

To me this just looks like a sales ploy since it does not actually spray steam onto the clothes, just a cold water mist. If you really want a steam dryer for whatever reasons you’ve convinced yourself that you need one, buy the LG unit– at least you’ll be a getting a real steam dryer.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Maintenance kit for Whirlpool / Kenmore dryers with the lint filter in the door

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 15:27:34 +0000

Okay, boys and girls, last time on the Freaky Uncle Samurai Show, I told y’all about a nifty maintenance kit for Whirlpool-Kenmore dryers with the lint filter in the top panel. But Whirlpool makes another style of dryer with the lint filter in the front panel where you open the door. This is the so-called DOTT dryer which stands for the “dryer of tomorrow, today.” No chit, boys and girls, that’s really what they call it. Ol’ Samurai may be a little freaky and smell kinda funny, but he ain’t no liar. These dryers aren’t nearly as tough and durable as the other kind with the lint filter in the top panel but I rectum that’s progress for ya.

Whirlpool makes a maintenance kit for these dryers, too. Check it out:

(click it to git it, l’il chillun)

And they’s even a fixemup video for this kit, too. Grab some popcorn and let’s watch:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Convenient maintenance kit for Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers with the lint filter in the top panel

Samurai Appliance Repair Man — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:36:47 +0000

So you have one of those Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers with the lint filter in the top panel? First of all, congratulations! These dryers are tanks and, IMHO, the best dryer design ever put out there. Whatever you do, don’t get rid of this one. The dryers made today don’t even come close to the durability and repairability of this one.

We have one of these dryers ourselves. It’s over 30 years old and still running strong. Only problem we’ve ever had with it was that it started making an intermittent high-pitched squealing sound, which would start after the dryer had been going a while. When I opened it up, I could see the drum rollers were sloppy and would chatter when I spun ‘em by hand. The belt was in pretty bad shape, too, and it would just be a matter of time before it broke. And I figured I might as well replace the idler pulley while I was in there.

When I started looking up parts, it turns out Whirlpool puts out a handy maintenance kit for this very reason. Contains the belt, two drum rollers, new idler pulley and complete destructions. My, my, how conveeeeenient.

(click it to git it, Hoss)

And here’s a cool video that shows you how to do it, step-by-step:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.