Appliantology Newsletter The Warm Refrigerator Fire Drill Early-May 2012 The Warm Refrigerator Fire Drill So you’re minding your own business, going about your morning and getting ready for work. You open the refrigerator for your morning beer and discover, to your horror, that all the beer is warm! Bile burns the back of your throat as your trembling hands frantically search the internet for an answer. But your terror turns into frustration and then outright rage after you’ve sifted through a dozen pages of fluff and non-answers. Why isn’t there a page that can just methodically guide a panic-stricken mind through process of figuring out what’s wrong with his warm refrigerator? Ahh, but there is! Behold the Samurai’s Warm Refrigerator Flowchart. It’s the perfect page for a Grasshoppah facing down a warm refrigerator. The Samurai methodically and expertly steps you through the diagnosis and then links you to the page that shows you exactly how to fix the problem. Check out the Warm Refrigerator Flowchart, download it today and keep it handy. Also makes a great gift for that special someone who already has it all. Washer & Dryer Recommendations In this episode of their award-winning and internationally-acclaimed podcast on Fixitnow.com Radio, Samurai Appliance Repair Man and Mrs. Samurai discuss their recommendations if you’re considering buying a new washer and dryer. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, it’ll become a part of you. Come have a listen. In the podcast, they discuss stand-alone machines; if you’re thinking about buying a stack laundry unit, you’ll want to watch this short video from the Samurai’s alter-ego. Appliance Service in New London, NH The Samurai is re-launching his local in-home appliance service business as The Appliance Guru. It’s an old business with a new name. Why? Well, our other business name, Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man, plays well on the web but we discovered not so good as a service business. For one thing, people just could not seem to remember the web site address, Fixitnow.com. Invariably, they’d ask, “What was it again, Fixit.com?” We actually had a local writer do an entire article in a local magazine about our site and she re-named it, “Fixitagain.com!” Read more about our name change here. So if you live in the New London, New Hampshire, area or know someone who does, please keep The Appliance Guru in mind for expert in-home appliance repair service! The Appliantology Academy, www.Appliantology.org

Your Name: Matt

Type of Appliance: None

Brand: ?

Model Number: ?

Your Precious Words:
OK, so I am ready to buy another set of laundry machines. After coming to this site for the last 8 or so years I figured you’d be best to ask….

Top loader or front loader?
Old skool or hi efficient?

I really want machines that work & don’t break down (too often#. Doing about 2+ loads a day gives these appliances alot of use. If I buy new machines I don’t want to smell mold when I open the washer & I don’t need bells & whistles or computer boards that crash either.
The set I have now #Whirlpool – Washer LSQ9549LWO & Gas Dryer LGQ9857LWO) has given me some troubles over the past 7 years….all dryer issues (& a 24′ vent run!) but now I have an agitator that isn’t agitatin’, a rusty lid and a tub that looks scumy #soap scum above normal water line# on the washer…..so, the wife wants new, even though these machines do a decent job of cleaning!
I’ve checked consumer reports and reviews from lots of sites and there is soooo much conflicting information. I was ready to buy the Whirlpool WGD94HEXW based on consumer reports recommendation##1# but then I read the reviews #only 1 star buy owners of the machines#. I want to make a good decision! Can you help shed some light on my dy-lemma?

Or, let me ask you like this……if you were to go get yourself a new set of machines….what would the Samurai buy?

Thanks, in advance, for your wisdom!

Great question! In this episode of their award-winning and internationally-acclaimed podcast on Fixitnow.com Radio, Samurai Appliance Repair Man and Mrs. Samurai discuss their recommendations if you’re considering buying a new washer and dryer. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, it’ll become a part of you. Come have a listen.

In the podcast, they discuss stand-alone machines; if you’re thinking about buying a stack laundry unit, you’ll want to watch this short video from the Samurai’s alter-ego.

Click the play button below to listen to our reply:

Your Name: david

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: kenmore

Model Number: 110.76642500

Your Precious Words:
After doing the diagnostics it appears that I need new solenoids on the gas burner. Do you have these or do I need to buy the who burner assembly

Hi David,

If the coils (or solenoids) on the gas valve are bad, they can be replaced easily and inexpensively without having to replace the gas valve itself. In fact, to replace the coils, you don’t even need to shut off the gas!

These gas valve coils often fail intermittently, making diagnosis difficult. But here’s a quick n’ easy way to check the gas valve coils on the valve in a gas dryer. Watch the burner assembly while the dryer is heating. If the igniter glows for a while and then shuts off without the gas turning on, it usually means one of these coils is bad. Don’t bother trying to figure out which one is bad– just replace both as a set to avoid aggravation later on.

The gas valve coil set is inexpensive and easy to replace. You can buy the set here with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid/279834/3479?RCAID=24038

That set will work with your model and with most common models of gas dryers out there today.

This video shows you how to replace the valve coils in a gas dryer…

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: keith

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: kenmore

Model Number: 110.70982990

Your Precious Words:
I get no flame, no valves clicking open and no glow on my ignitor. I found my thermal fuse was open, so need to get a new one of those, but I have been looking for a part you mentioned called the operating thermostat. I don’t have a schematic but do have an assembly diagram and I can’t fine that part anywhere. Can you give me a clue where I might fine it and check continuity?? thanks man, love your website. I visit you about every 5-7 years when my washer/dryer break.

Hi Keith,

Good job getting this far! Your particular model, the Whirlpool-built 27″ dryer with the lint filter in the door, uses a thermistor instead of an operating thermostat. This is actually becoming the norm for modern dryers as electronic control boards are increasingly used to control the dryer.

A thermistor works as the operating thermostat because its resistance changes with temperature. This change in resistance in read by the control board which then makes decisions about cycle time, powering up the heating elements, etc.

On the older versions of this same dryer, which did have an operating thermostat, it was located in the same exact place where the thermistor is now located in the new models, like yours.

The thermistor for your dryer is located on the blower housing, in front, below the drum. Here’s the part link to the thermistor with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermistor/8577274/1181075?RCAID=24038

This video shows you how to get to it and replace it:

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: mary

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: amana

Model Number: alg643raw

Your Precious Words:
My drier seems to have something trapped in the motor and is not working. How can I check it and remove it?

Hi Mary,

Your Amana dryer comes apart very similarly to the Maytag dryer which is is shown in the video below. Very common to find a sock or something caught in the blower wheel housing.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: Elizabeth

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: Kenmore

Model Number: 110.87980100

Your Precious Words:
They said it couldn’t be done! Sixty-three year old school teacher disassembled, repaired, and reassembled dryer. I am woman; hear me roar. Thank you for providing exactly the information I needed. You have brought me JOY.

Elizabeth, your email has brought this old Samurai great joy. I love hearing about my grasshoppers’ triumphs over their dysfunctional appliances. We are all applauding you here at Samurai International Headquarters on your victorious repair!

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: Corey

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: Roper

Model Number: RGS7646KQ2

Your Precious Words:
s/n MM2102599 8yr old gas dryer that tenants say slowly stopped drying the clothes until now they don’t dry at all, still turns, no flame thru peep hole and I don’t hear any clicking where it would be trying to ignite. Gas is flowing to the dryer I know. Please advise which parts I should buy. Replaced igniter, etc in my home’s dryer, so familar with repair which I plan to do. thx. corey

Hi Corey,

Sounds like a couple of things going on here. First, the “slowly stopped drying the clothes” part of your question makes me think we’re dealing with a bad venting issue. This screencast explains what’s going on with that:

As for the stopped drying part of your problem, there are two common culprits in gas dryers: the thermal fuse and the gas valve coils.

If indeed you have a bad vent as explained in the screencast above, then the thermal fuse probably finally blew.

Here’s the part link to the thermal fuse with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/3392519/2986?RCAID=24038

This video shows you how to test the thermal fuse to see if it’s bad:

If the thermal fuse tests good, then you probably need to replace the gas valve coils. An easy check for this is to see if the ignitor starts glowing up when you first start the cycle but then you hear a click and the ignitor stops glowing. This is a sure sign of bad gas valve coils.

Here’s the part link to the gas valve coils with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid/279834/3479?RCAID=24038

And this video shows you how to replace them:

If the gas valve coils and the thermal fuse both check out good, then check the ignitor. This video shows you how:

And here’s the part link to the ignitor with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Dryer-Igniter/279311/3415?RCAID=24038

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: bhoeff

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: maytag

Model Number: pye2300ayw

Your Precious Words:
dryer runs but doesn’t heat. replaced thermal limit, hi limit, ohmed element o.k., check voltage L1 & L2 o.k., checked voltage on most large wires on timer o.k. timer clicks smooth. What’s next?

You’ve covered all the bases except one: the centrifugal switch in the dryer motor:

The example shown is for a Whirlpool dryer but all dryer motors operate similarly. Some centrifugal switches are separately replaceable (like this one); some are not.

For an electric dryer no-heat complaint where you’ve checked everything else as you have and still not getting heat, that only leaves a bad centrifugal switch in the dryer motor. On most models, including yours, that means a new motor because the centrifugal switch is not separately replaceable.

Here’s the part link to your dryer motor with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/W10410996/2024638?modelNumber=PYE2300AYW

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Dryer overheats and/or dryer runs too hot! from Samurai Appliance Repair Man on Vimeo.

A dryer that overheats or gets too hot can ruin clothes and even start a fire in your house! The cause is usually very easy to find and correct. This Samurai Screencast™ explains how to get your dryer running right again.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Most folks know that their dryer vent should be cleaned out periodically for safety and to help keep the dryer running at peak efficiency. But not everyone is familiar enough with their dryer or venting to know how to clean their dryer vent. Here are some things that’ll help you do it yourself and save money.

A good, inexpensive tool that’ll help you do a good job cleaning your dryer vent is a dryer vent brush ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/20-Foot-Vent-Cleaning-Brush/18001034/424663

And this repair video shows you how to do it:

This screencast explains how the dryer vent affects drying time in dryers:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

I get this complaint about every day, “My dryer gets hot but doesn’t dry the clothes.” Or, “My dryer doesn’t seem to get as hot as it used to and the clothes don’t get completely dry.” Watch this inspiring and illuminating Samurai Screencast™ to learn why this is happening and how to fix it!

Dryer gets hot but takes a long time to dry your clothes? The Samurai explains why! from Samurai Appliance Repair Man on Vimeo.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

This dryer is a step down from the original design that had the lint filter in the top panel– not nearly as rugged or durable as it’s older brother. But still lots of these dryers out there. Here’s how to take ‘em apart when you inevitably have to work on them:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Susan wrote:

I am in need of a new washer and dryer and have limited space. I am thinking of a stackable washer and dryer and wondering what you think of that option. Are you aware of any problems with this type of washer/dryer? Thanks

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

CHuckH wrote:

I have a Maytag Perfroma 2300 Series electric dryer. Last night it stopped working. The dryer will not turn on in any setting. Where do I start troubleshooting so that I know what part(s) I may need to replace. I have already checked the house circuit breaker and there is no issue there. Thanks for the help! CHuck

The first step in any appliance no-operation condition is to verify the power supply. In the case of an electric dryer, that means 240vac from L1 to L2 and 120vac from each L1 and L2 to neutral. This is done at the back of the dryer at the terminal block where the power cord connects, like ahso:

If power supply is good, then what you have sounds like a classic case of a bad thermal fuse. Electric dryers are designed so that when the thermal fuse opens, it kills power to the motor and heating element.

Here’s the link to the replacement thermal fuse with a how-to video ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/3392519/2986

BTW, the number one cause of thermal fuses opening is a dryer vent with excessive back pressure. A vent can be totally free of lint and still be bad. The name of the game is back pressure: crimps, using the slinky material, stuck outside vent hood, etc. Read more ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/05/14/mailbag-dryer-keeps-blowing-thermal-fuses/

When you run your dryer, whether gas or electric, the heat will turn on and off to maintain the temperature within the range selected on the control panel (cottons, permapress, knits, etc.). The temperature is controlled by a device called a cycling thermostat. If your dryer isn’t heating at all or is staying too hot for the entire cycle, one of the things you’ll want to check is this cycling thermostat. It’s easy! This slick how-to video shows you ezzacly how to to do it:

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

So your dryer powers up, you select a cycle and push start and the dryer hums for a coupla seconds and then goes quiet for a while. This usually indicates something is blocking the drum from rotating. A sock stuck in the blower would do it.

A quick test to see if you have a drum blockage problem is to simply open the door and try to turn the drum by hand. If you can’t turn the drum manually, ain’t no way that dinky motor in there is gonna turn it, ether! Can I hear an, “A-freakin-men?”

If you need to get inside the dryer to remove a sock stuck in the blower or some other rolling problem, Sublime Master john63 over at the Appliantology appliance repair forums steps us over the rice paper without a single tear or wrinkle ==> LINK

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Sublime Master of Appliantology john63 at the Samurai School of Appliantology enlightens us on two key aspects of Samsung dryers: tech sheet location and thermistor operation.

On the rear/back of the dryer—there’s a TECH SHEET in a plastic pouch.

On the sheet—you’ll find the test values for various components.

THERMISTORS can fail and still not trigger an error display. Check the OHMS value (at room temperature) with a test meter.

Also, the thermistor is not in series with the heat element, the thermostat is.

The thermistor detects temp changes in the dryer by changes in resistance, which are interpreted by the control determining when to turn the heat on and off…

The THERMISTOR has a *coating* on it that becomes scratched/chipped over time by tiny particles in the blower housing. The salty air then corrodes the THERMISTOR (no heat at all).

Read more: Samsung DV337AEG Repair

(click image to purchase – 365-day return policy)

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here

You may need to tear down this dryer for a variety of reasons: replace the belt, drum rollers, heating element, etc. This video shows you how to do it the right way:

Common replacement parts in the Whirlpool Duet Sport dryer (click to see photo and/or purchase):

Heating Element Assembly

Thermal Fuse

Door Latch

Thermistor

Idler Pulley

Lint Filter

Drive Belt

Thermal Fuse and High Limit Thermostat

Drum Roller

Drive Motor

Blower Wheel

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

mark wrote:

looking for instructions on replacing rollers on an older Maytag dryer model LDG7304AAE

Piece of pie, tovarish! First, come git you a pair of drum rollers.

(Click image)

Even though it’s usually the roller above the heating element or flame tube that usually goes out first, it’s always a good idea to replace both as long as you’re going through the trouble of tearing down the dryer to fix it.

Speaking of tearing down and fixing, this nifty repair video shows you how to replace the drum rollers in this venerable dryer:

If you run into anything weird, come start a new topic in the laundry forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll get you going.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Peter wrote:

We have a GE dryer model DDG7280SBLWW, S/N GL315788G. The problem is the dryer does not stay hot though the entire cycle for any of the cyles (automatic of timed). When the dryer is turned on for any cycle it initially gets hot and comes up to temperatur, vent pipe hot to touch but not burning hot, then the heat cycles off and does not heat back up. The dryer will run though the rest of the cycle and when it turns off the clotes are cold and damp. I removed the vent cap outside the house and cleanned the vent pipe and dryer to make sure we have sufficient air flow but no change in the dryer performance. We called a tech who came in and started replacing parts (i believe all the sensers, coils on the gas valve, timer & timer knob) but we still have the problem. They have sent differnet people to the house but it has been 2 weeks and the dryer still isn’t working. Wife near point of leaving. There is good and bad in all situations. Please help.

This is a classic symptom of a vent duct with too much backpressure. Vents can be clear of lint and still have excessive backpressure. You can easily test this by disconnecting the vent from the back of the dryer and run it again while observing the burner on/off cycle. I’m sure you’ll see normal heating operation.

Get the gory details on how to make a good dryer vent in this post:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/10/15/appliance-tip-of-the-day-the-ultimate-dryer-venting-guide/

If you need more help, come see us in the Samurai School of Appliantology and start a new topic in the Laundry Forum: http://appliantology.org

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