Your Name: Clint
Type of Appliance: Microwave Oven
Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: MH1150XMS-3
Your Precious Words: How hard is it to replace a touchpad?

Part links:

Touchpad ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Whirlpool-Microwave-Model-MH1150XMS3-ID-654671-Touchpad-Parts

Circuit Board ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/8206448/1178021?modelNumber=MH1150XMS3

Click the play button below to listen to just the audio portion of this reply…

When you’re troubleshooting a no-heat complaint in a microwave, one of the components you may need to check is the high-voltage rectifier (called a “rectumflyer” in the trade. )

Trouble is, the junction resistance on these rectumfliers is so high that doing a standard forward and reverse bias test with an ohm meter won’t tell you anything because it’ll just read open in both directions. This video shows an easy method for testing these special critters:

To learn more about your microwave oven, or to order parts, click here.

KitchenAid KBHS179SSS Microwave Oven Schematic

Model number variations: KBHS179SSS, KBHS179S, KBHS179

Uploaded with Skitch!

(click image for larger view)

To learn more about your microwave oven, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai Appliance Repair Forum

http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts

http://parts.fixitnow.com

Sublime Master Willie in the Samurai School of Appliantology dispenses these indispensable pearls of appliantological wisdom for troubleshooting a microwave oven that keeps blowing the internal fuse:

Quick n’ easy way to see if the high voltage system is blowing the fuse, disconnect the wires to the primary side of the high voltage transformer and make sure they are safely away from any part of the microwave.

Turn the unit on and if all operates OK, (except no heat of course), then the high voltage system is blowing the fuse and you would need to diagnose that section. If fuse still blows with transformer disconnected then it time to replace all the door switches.

To learn more about your microwave oven, or to order parts, click here

Someone posted this nifty Youtube video from Dave’s Farm in the Samurai School of Appliantology. It’s a well-made and easy-to-understand introduction to microwave ovens for do-it-yourselfers. Gives just the info you need, without using any jargon, to understand basic operation and do common repairs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

http://fixitnow.com

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://appliantology.org
Facebook==> http://facebook.com/fixitnowsamurai
Twitter==> http://twitter.com/fixitnowsamurai
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com
SMS==> 603-505-8460

Basic troubleshooting kata for microwave ovens. First, get a good bottle of sake… http://post.ly/xeMZ

Suspecting your microwave oven of slacking off on the job? Here’s a quick and easy test that’ll let you check your microwave oven’s heating output without needing to buy fancy equipment; only things you’ll need are a 1 liter PYREX glass bowl and a thermometer that can measure the temperature of hot water.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the bowl you are using is PYREX glass or another brand of glass that explicitly states it is microwave safe. DO NOT use plastic (inaccurate) or metal (DUH!).

MICROWAVE PERFORMANCE TEST

1. Fill the PYREX bowl with water at room temperature. Record initial water temperature.

2. Run the microwave on high power for 2:03. Not 2:04, nor 2:02 except ye go on to 2:03. 2:05 is right out.

3. Record end water temperature.

If the microwave magnetron is working right, the minimum difference between the initial and ending temperature should be about 86℉. If it’s much less than this, then you probably have a weak magnetron. If water temperature hardly changes at all, then there’s something wrong with the high voltage section and you’ll need to troubleshoot it. Suspects include: magnetron, HV transformer, HV capacitor, HV rectifier, and door interlock switch among others.

The HV rectifier (a nearly-scatological name for a diode) is one of the most common things to fail in a microwave oven. Fortunately, they’re pretty inexpensive and easy to install. The trick is in testing it so’s you can tell whether it’s good or not. Most multimeters just don’t pump out enough mojo to be able to break down the diode junction so you can’t test the rectumflyer, er, I mean rectifier directly with your meter. But this spiffy little rig will let you test it with just about any meter.

What does “local” mean anymore in this age of the Internet? I mean, can you get any more local than right here on your computer screen? I know we look big time an’ all, but we’re a mom & pop (literally!) operation, too. Instead of a brick n’ mortar repair shop, we’re your online DIY appliance repair shop; we’re every bit (pardon the pun) as real and we’re as close as your compooter screen. How’s that for local?

Fun Fact to Know and Tell: The “local” appliance repair shop in your town or city cannot buy LG appliance parts directly from their parts dealer like they do for other appliance brands; they have to buy them directly from LG.

What does this mean for you? It means you’re gonna pay a higher price and wait longer to get LG parts if buy them from your “local” parts house.

But the Samurai has the solution: buy your LG parts right here through Fixitnow.com– your local online appliance repair place– you’ll save mucho dinero and you’ll get your parts delivered lickety-split. Just use the handy links below:

LG Appliance Parts Links

- Dishwashers
- Dryers
- Ice Makers
- Refrigerators
- Microwave Ovens
- Ovens/Ranges/Stoves
- Refrigerators
- Washers

Faced with their first microwave oven repair, the bowels of many Grasshoppers begin to quake uncontrollably with trepidation. Well, you just relax, Grasshopper, and clean out those skivvies ‘cuz once you know a few tricks, you’ll see that microwave ovens are no more complicated than any other appliance. The Samurai shall reveal all these truths unto thee and the Truth shall set thee free. Please open your Appliantology hymnal and sing along with me now.

Almost all microwave ovens have a control compartment that you access in various ways. We won’t get into that here but if you need help with your specfic model, just start a new topic in the Kitchen appliance forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology and we’ll hepya there. In this post, I’ll just go over some of the basics to de-mystify microwave ovens for you.

The basic parts of a microwave oven are:

- a high voltage power source, commonly a simple transformer or an electronic power converter, which passes energy to the magnetron
- a cavity magnetron which converts high-voltage electric energy to microwave radiation
- a magnetron control circuit (usually with a microcontroller, an electronic control board or PCB, which stands for “printed circuit board”)
- a waveguide (to control the direction of the microwaves)
- a cooking chamber

Now, don’t the let the word “radiation” make you all a-sceered and quivery. Gird up your loins like a man! Did you know that light is also a form of radiation? So whaddya gonna do, go live in a dark cave the rest of your life or get a little edumucation from the Samurai?

Still there? That’s the warrior spirit!

The radiation in microwave ovens is what we professionals call “non-ionizing” radiation. That means, like light and radio waves, it doesn’t kick out radioactive particles. So it’s a complete misnomer to refer to microwaving food as “nuking” because it has nothing in common with nuclear radiation.

Feeling better already? Good, let’s continue with our hymnal.

When you’re ready to disassemble the microwave oven and do some troubleshooting, you’ll begin the same way you would for any other appliance: UNPLUG IT!

After you get the control panel open, there’s just one other safety thing to do before you start sticking your paws all in there: discharge the high voltage capacitor. The HV capacitor can hold up to 2,000 volts which can really curl your hair. Don’t start freaking out on me, all’s you gotta do is short the terminals together like ahso. It the capacitor is holding charge, it can snap like a fire cracker and make a cool-looking flash-bang so… heads up!

Awwite, with that bit of funness outta the way, we can proceed to the meatus of this troubleshooting membrane.

Here’s a generic troubleshooting table that applies to almost all microwave ovens in current use:

Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Table

One of the most common things to test (‘cuz they go bad a lot) are the door interlock switches. You know those plastic hooks on the open end of the door? Well, they go into slots on the cabinet and jiggle some little switches called interlock switches. Here’s a typical configuration of these switches:

(click for larger view)

And here’s a table of the other major components inside that can go bad and how to check ‘em:

(click for larger view)

Just one enhancement to the parts-checking table above. Most of the time, your typical multi-meter isn’t strong enough to properly check the HV rectifier (or “rectumflyer” as we call it in the trade). So you have to do a little battery enhancement to be able to check it in reverse and forward bias. Behold:

Awwite, there you be. If you need more hand-holding, come start a new topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums.

Shock hazard. Danger, Will Robinson!

Samsung OTR Microwave Recall

Freaky appliance
flashing mysterious code.
Mystery revealed!

Appliance Breakdown Diagrams

Grok on these mind-expanding, interactive breakdown diagrams of various appliances so you can see how they’re put together. An indispensible troubleshooting and repair aid! Just click on the appliance you’re working on and run your mouse over the diagrams. It’ll popup pictures of the various key components inside as well as give you insight into how to disassemble. It’s the miracle of Flash!

If you need more detailed help, start a new topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum and we can get you more info.

Air Conditioning

Dehumidifiers

Dishwashers

Disposals

Dryers

• Gas Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter on Top
• Gas Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter in Door
• Gas Maytag Style
• Gas GE Style
• Electric Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter on Top
• Electric Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter in Door
• Electric Maytag Style
• Electric GE Style

Freezers

• Chest Freezer
• Upright Freezer

Ice Makers

• In Freezer
• Free Standing

Microwave Ovens

• Counter Top
• Built In

Ovens, Ranges, and Stoves

• Gas Free Standing
• Electric Free Standing
• Gas Cook Top
• Electric Cook Top
• Gas Walloven
• Electric Walloven

Refrigerators

• Side by Side
• Freezer on Top
• Freezer on Bottom
• Freezer on Bottom

Trash Compactors

Washing Machines

• Top Load Maytag Style
• Top Load Whirlpool Style
• Top Load GE Style
• Front Load Maytag Style
• Front Load Frigidaire / GE / Kenmore Style

… and to make your joy complete, GE has discontinued this two-year old model! Can you say, “Uhh, guys, we better stop production on this pig-dog before we get our bee-hinds sued into oblivion.” Uh-huh, that’s what I thought you said. Anyway, this topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums ‘splains what you need to fix it…

GE Microwave Melting Door and Burning Smell

To learn more about your microwave oven, or to order parts, click here.

GE strikes again! This time, they’re recalling a quarter of a million wall ovens sold under the GE, GE Profile, Monogram and Kenmore labels.

The problem is caused by the extreme heat used in the self-clean cycle escaping if the wall oven door is removed and incorrectly re-attached by the installer or the consumer. This can pose a fire and burn hazard to the hapless folks who bought GE-built appliances.

So far, 28 incidents of minor property damage have been reported in which adjacent kitchen cabinets have been damaged. No injuries have been reported.

The wall ovens were sold in white, black, bisque and stainless steel. The following model and serial numbers can be found inside the oven on the left interior wall. For microwave combination ovens, the serial number can be found on the left interior wall of the microwave.

GE Profile

Model Numbers: JCT915, JT912, JT915, JT952, JT955, JT965, JT980*, JTP20, JTP25, JTP28, JTP48, JTP50, JTP86

Serial Numbers Begin With: TD, VD, ZD, AF, DF, FF, GF, HF, LF, MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF

Monogram

Model Numbers: ZET3058, ZET938, ZET958

Serial Numbers Begin With: TD, VD, ZD, AF, DF, FF, GF, HF, LF, MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF

Kenmore (All model numbers start with 911)

Model Numbers: 4771, 4775, 4781, 4904, 4905, 4923*

Serial Numbers Begin With: 2T, 2V, 2Z, 3A, 3D, 3F, 3G, 3H, 3L, 3M, 3R, 3S, 3T, 3V, 3Z

If you’re a victim of one of these appliances, you should immediately inspect the oven to make sure you don’t have an incorrectly re-attached wall oven door, which will not open into the flat position. If the wall oven door is incorrectly re-attached, consumers should not use the self-clean cycle and call GE for a free repair. You can continue to use normal baking or broiling function in the oven until the oven is repaired.

For additional information, contact GE toll-free at (888) 569-1588 between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. Monday through Friday, and between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. Saturday ET.

Since this problem pertains to the self-clean function, this is a good time to review the use of the self cleaning feature in an oven. During self clean, the oven can develop temperatures in excess of 900˚F. I don’t care what the manufacturers say, there isn’t a single oven built today that can withstand very many self clean cycles at these extreme temperatures. In addition to posing a potential fire hazard, using the self clean cycle will eventually cause expensive repairs in your oven such as damaged control boards and burned out temperature sensors.

So, let’s review the two rules for using the self clean feature in an oven:

Rule 1: Never, ever, ever use self clean.

Rule 2: If, in a weak moment, you find yourself thinking about using self clean, refer to Rule 1.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

More trouble with cheesy electronics in appliances. This time, it’s the Whirlpool-built (includes KitchenAid) built-in combination microwave ovens.

In this particular inconvenience, error code “door” appears in the display and the microwave oven shuts down in mid-cycle. When restarted, the microwave will shut down immediately again and show the “door” error code.

The microcomputer control board (more on that in a minute) will throw this error code whenever it detects an open circuit in the door interlock switch circuit (such as when the door is actually open– go figure!). Hooold on there, Bubbalouie! Uncross them eyeballs and lemme ‘splain what that means.

The door interlock switches are the little switches inside the cabinet where the door catches go in and hook when you close the door. They call ‘em microswitches in the trade (I suppose to distinguish them from macroswitches).

In this case, as seen in this wiring diagram, one of the components at play here is the primary interlock microswitch, usually referred to simply as a switch. To save finger strokes, we’ll refer to the primary interlock switch as the PIS, as in, “that little PISser.”

You can tell the PIS from the secondary interlock switch (the SIS- not shown here) because it’s the one with a red and black wire attached to it. How’d I know that? It’s printed right on the wiring diagram.

You see, Grasshoppah, a wiring diagram is nothing more that a road map for wires (and, more interestingly, electrons). Generally, if you can read a road map and fog a mirror, you can read a wiring diagram well enough for most DIY appliance repairs.

Anyway, you’ll need to get to the PIS (some disassembly required; unplug the microwave first and watch out for the high voltage capacitor– it holds a 2,000 volt charge… even when unplugged!). And then check the continuity of the switch while actuating it (pressing the little tab in and releasing it).

Referring again to the wiring diagram, the PIS is just one of the three components that, if open (or bad) will cause the microcomputer to throw a “door” error in the display. You’ll also notice that there are two fuses in that circuit: a 20amp and 15 amp fuse in series with each other (that means they’re on the same line). If either one of those fuses are open, you’ll get the same error in the display. So, you need to do a continuity check on both those fuses with your multimeter.

If any three of these things are open– the PIS or either of the two fuses– you’ll get “door” on the display.

If you check all those and they’re good, then you’re probably looking at a bad microcomputer control board. This microcomputer controls the operation of the microwave and monitors the position of the oven door. As you might expect, this is not something that can be adjusted or corrected by replacing the out-of-spec component on the board. No, the entire microcomputer must be replaced.

To learn more about your microwave oven, or to order parts, click here.

The best-kept secrets in microwave oven troubleshooting revealed! Now, for the first time ever on the internet, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, your partner in appliance repair, reveals what they don’t want you know about diagnosing and repairing your dysfunctional microwave. It’s all ratcheer in this user-friendly, quick and easy microwave oven troubleshooting flowchart. And it’s yours FREE! Download it today and share it with all your friends.

Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man: The planet’s #1 do-it-yourself appliance repair resource.

More microwave oven repair help:

• Microwave Oven FAQs
• The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums
• Easy Guide to Making Basic Electrical Measurements

To learn more about your microwave oven, or to order parts, click here.

Almost all major home appliances built today have at least one electronic control board inside of them. Because they are so ubiquitous in the world of major appliances, electronic circuit board analysis is a crucial skill for successfully repairing appliances.

Most grasshoppers are not skilled in the ancient and mystical ways of analyzing electronic circuits. But for those of you out there who are, we here at Samurai International Headquarters would like to identify and honor you with the Samurai Certification for Electronic Circuit Board Analysis (SCECBA; pronounced “skek-bah“). Your SCECBA certification says to the world that you know a thing or two about electronics… and that you do other stuff online besides playing Texas hold ‘em.

If you think you have what it takes for SCECBA certification, then here’s your chance to prove it: take the SCECBA exam.

If you pass, you will receive a cool electronic SCECBA decal to be proudly displayed on your website.

WASHINGTON, D.C. – The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of Product: Built-in Combination Wall and Microwave Ovens

Units: About 92,000

Manufacturer: GE Consumer & Industrial, of Louisville, Ky.

Hazard: The door switch in the microwave oven can overheat and ignite plastic components in the control area, posing a fire hazard to consumers. The lower thermal oven does not pose a hazard.

Incidents/Injuries: GE is aware of 35 incidents of minor property damage and one incident in which a fire damaged adjacent kitchen cabinets. No injuries have been reported.

Description: The recall includes GE combination microwave and conventional built-in wall ovens sold under the following brand names: GE, GE Profile® and Kenmore. The ovens were sold in white, black, bisque and stainless steel. The brand name is printed on the lower left corner on the front of the microwave door. The following model and serial numbers can be found inside the microwave oven on the left interior wall.

Recalled Models:

GE / GE Profile
JKP85B0A3BB, JKP85B0D1BB, JKP85W0A3WW, JKP85W0D1WW,
JKP86B0F1BB, JKP86C0F1CC, JKP86S0F1SS, JKP86W0F1WW,
JT965B0F1BB, JT965C0F1CC, JT965S0F1SS, JT965W0F1WW,
JTP85B0A2BB, JTP85B0A3BB, JTP85B0A4BB, JTP85B0A5BB,
JTP85B0D1BB, JTP85W0A2WW, JTP85W0A3WW, JTP85W0A4WW,
JTP85W0A5WW, JTP85W0D1WW, JTP86B0F1BB, JTP86C0F1CC,
JTP86S0F1SS, JTP86W0F1WW, JTP95B0A2BB, JTP95B0A3BB,
JTP95B0A4BB, JTP95B0A5BB, JTP95B0D1BB, JTP95W0A2WW,
JTP95W0A3WW, JTP95W0A4WW, JTP95W0A5WW, JTP95W0D1WW

Serial number begins with:

AZ, DZ, FZ, GZ, HZ,
LZ, MZ, RZ, SZ, TZ,
VZ, ZZ, AA, DA, FA,
GA, HA, LA, MA, RA,
SA, TA, VA, ZA, AD,
DD, FD, GD, HD, LD,
MD, RD, SD, TD, VD,
ZD, AF, DF, FF, GF,
HF, LF, MF, RF, SF,
TF, VF, ZF

Kenmore (All model numbers start with 911):

41485991, 41485992, 41485993, 41485994,
41489991,41489992, 41489993, 41489994,
49485992, 49489992, 47692100, 47699100,
47862100, 47869100, 47812200, 47813200,
47814200, 47819200, 47792200, 47793200,
47794200, 47799200 0, 1, 2, 3

Sold at: Department and appliance stores from January 2000 to December 2003 for between $1,500 and $2,000.

Manufactured in: United States

Remedy: Consumers should stop using the microwave oven immediately. Consumers should contact GE regarding their GE/GE Profile micro-oven combo or Sears for their Kenmore unit. GE is offering a free repair or rebate on a new product, a $300 rebate toward the purchase of a new GE brand unit, or a $600 rebate toward the purchase of a new GE Profile brand unit. Sears is offering a free repair or $300 rebate toward the purchase of a new Kenmore brand unit. Consumers can continue using the lower thermal oven.

Consumer Contact: For additional information on GE /Profile units, contact General Electric toll-free at (888)-240-2745 from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. ET Saturday, or visit GE’s Web site at www.geappliances.com. For additional information on Kenmore units, contact Sears toll-free at (888) 679-0282 from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. ET Monday through Saturday, or visit Sears’ Web site at www.sears.com

What’s the use of having a turntable if it no longer turns? This thread from the Samurai School of Appliantology will help you get the turn back in your table.