Your Name: Dacy

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: Maytag

Model Number: mew5530ddb

Your Precious Words:
Certain numbers on my oven have not been working, then last week the bake button also stopped working. I replaced the control panel and now none of the keys are working. Could I have done something wrong in the installation or do I also need the computer behind the control panel? Do you have some installation instructions so that I can see if I missed any steps.

Hi Dacy,

First off, recheck all your connections to make sure they’re in the right place. Also, make sure the ribbon connector for the touchpanel you replaced is firmly seated all the way down in the receptacle on the control board computer. Disconnect it and reconnect it.

If all that checks out good, then probably what’s going on is that static electricity on your body took out the control board (the computer behind the touchpanel) when you were installing the new touchpanel. Based on your original problem description, replacing the touchpanel was the right thing to do but it may not have been done correctly.

The assembly and access to the touchpanel and control board are usually pretty straightforward– if you can replace the touchpanel, you can replace the control board. The most important installation instructions for installing the new touchpanel and/or control board is to ground out static electricity on your body!

These control boards contain very sensitive electronic components that are easily damaged by static electricity. Most people don’t realize just how susceptible to damage from static electricity they really are. This is why the installation instructions that come with the control boards will always have big notices about static electricity grounding from your body. In this regard, the most important step you can take is to wear a ground strap from your body to a grounded surface to ground out any static electricity you may be carrying. You can purchase the ground strap from your local radio shack store, they’re not expensive at all.

You can buy the new control board here with a 365 day return policy; return it even if you install it and it doesn’t fix the problem ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/74008960/1035219?modelNumber=MEW5530DDB?RCAID=24038

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at here at Fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Your Name: Verne

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: Gemini

Model Number: MGR6772BDB

Your Precious Words:
The oven was working fine, then our ability to use the control panel stopped. We are now unable to use any useage functions, but the clock works and the oven lights remain on.

Hi Verne,

Thanks for your email! The key telling point here is that you are no longer able to use any of the functions via the control panel, yet the clock still works. This tells me that there’s either a bad connection on the ribbon connector from the touch pad to the control board or the touch pad itself is bad. Try this trick first:

Looking up your model number, the touchpad and control board are sold as a combined unit. If the trick shown above fails to fix the problem, you’ll needs to replace the control board & touch pad assembly ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/5701M57660/1488609?modelNumber=MGR6772BDB?RCAID=24038

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

Your Name: Linda

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: GE

Model Number: JBP26GS2WH

Your Precious Words: Where to begin my oven on Easter burn and arc so we shut the power off to it and we are wondering how to take the old one out..thank you so much.
Linda

Hi Linda, thanks for your email! Yes, these calrod elements used in all electric ovens can fail in dramatic and spectacular fashion. This video probably shows something like what you saw (just don’t do what this guy did):

Anyway, you can buy the replacement element you need for your range with a 365-day return policy right here ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Bake-Element/WB44X5082/3358?modelNumber=JBP26GS2?RCAID=24038

For others reading this with a different brand or model number range or oven, you find your replacement elements with the same 365-day return policy on this page ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Range-Stove-Oven-Parts

As for replacing the bake element in your GE range, this video shows you how to do it safely and correctly:

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

All gas ranges come from the manufacturer set up to burn Natural Gas (NG). If you’re set up to burn Liquid Propane (LP) in your house, you’ll need to convert the range for this. Most gas ranges come with instructions for doing this but sometimes they get lost or “borrowed” by a sticky-fingered tech who worked on your range.

These instructions below are for a Frigidaire gas range, FPDF4085KF, but the same idea applies to all gas ranges. If you have some other model, you can use this as a guide for the general concept of converting your gas range to burn a different fuel.

Download (PDF, 667.2KB)

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Your Name: mark

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: kitchen aid

Model Number: kesc300bwh6

Your Precious Words:
your advise to replace capacitors for dim display sound good but this board has a total of ten. which ones control the lights?

Click the play button in the player below to hear my reply:

The ignitor and gas safety valve are the two key workhorse components in a gas oven or range. They’re also the two most common fail items that will stop an oven from working; ignitor is number one, safety valve is number two. These two videos show you how to test each one to determine if they’re bad. You can buy the replacement parts right here with a 365-day return policy– just enter your model number in the pretty orange parts search box at the top of the page.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Generic disassembly instructions for common-brand mid-level and entry-level electric ranges. Some of these breakdown diagrams may help, too ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Range-Stove-Oven-Electric-Free-Standing-Appliance-Diagram

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Generic disassembly instructions for common-brand mid-level and entry-level gas ranges. Some of these breakdown diagrams may help, too ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Range-Stove-Oven-Gas-Free-Standing-Appliance-Diagram

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

James wrote:

ge gas, model jgbs20bea1wh, oven ing. lites up gas valve has 2.8 ac. oven worked fine till removed painted wall installed gas line top works fine oven stoped

Hi, James. Well, I am trying to understand your cryptic e-mail to me made even more difficult to understand by your sparse use of punctuation. But if I am interpreting it correctly it sounds like maybe you’re getting 2.8 amps of current to the igniter? You did not say what you were actually measuring, you just said “2.8 ac”, I don’t know whether that is current or voltage. “AC” stands for “alternating current” which is a common type of household electrical supply. But AC can be measured in watts (power), voltage, current (amps), usage over time (kw-hours), etc.

I will assume that you measured current since what you reported is a typical under current reading thru a gas range ignitor. Assuming that this is the case, the solution would be to replace the igniter. Here’s the part link to the ignitor you need to fix your oven ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Igniter/WB13K21/2494?modelNumber=JGBS20BEA1WH

A good igniter will draw a minimum current of at least 3.2 amps. Since yours is well below that, this would indicate that there is insufficient current flowing through the igniter to open the gas valve and let gas through to the bake burner tube.

I’m not sure about your reference to a painted wall. I will assume that you are referring to cabinetry around the oven that was changed or modified. If so, this in itself should have no effect whatsoever on the operation of the oven bake ignitor. It could however have an affect on the cooling of the oven if there were insufficient ventilation. But again, this does not affect the ignition of the bake burner.

Dennis wrote:

my neigbors fridgidaire oven caught on fire during selfcleaning, the fire totally destroy their house and my house, do you have any information about any fridgidaire range malfunctioning during self cleaning mode?

Using the self-clean feature on ANY oven or range is just asking for trouble. What happened with your neighbor’s Frigidaire range is one of the worst-case scenarios. More commonly, something just breaks in the oven: door lock motors seize up and won’t unlock the door, shoddily-made (but expensively-priced) electronic range control boards fail from being exposed to high temperature and humidity that they were never designed to withstand, even though they are included in self-cleaning ranges. Idiotic? You betcha! Welcome to the low-budget underworld of appliance manufacturing.

If you spend any time at all reading topics in the Kitchen Forum at the Appliantology Academy, you’ll see warning after warning to never ever ever use self-clean on your oven… unless you just like fixing broken stuff and buying appliance parts, which I have no problem with as long you’re buying your parts here!

As to your specific question about Frigidaire ranges blowing up during self-clean, I don’t know of any repeating pattern of this problem unique to Frigidaire-built ranges. However, as I’ve said, ANY range is vulnerable to this during self-clean. Fun fact to know and tell: oven temperatures can exceed 900F during self-clean. At those temperatures, the volatilized carbon from the food soils would explode on contact if they were to mix with ambient air if, for example, the door was opened during self-clean. It is for this very reason that the door locks during this process. So I’m wondering if the door lock was disabled on this oven or if the door gasket was badly damaged or missing, allowing enough ambient air in to fuel an explosion.

If your oven is broken from using the self-clean or for some other reason, we can help you fix it in the Kitchen Forum. Just create a free account at the Appliantology Academy and start a new topic. We’ll help you whup up on it.

To learn more about your range or oven or to order parts, click here.

Everyday I get at least one email about an electric oven that won’t heat up. Many times, the person emailing me had already bought a replacement element hoping that was the problem because they didn’t know how to test their element to see whether or not it was bad in the first place.

This video shows you how to test the bake or broil element in your range so you’ll know whether you need to buy a new element or if the problem lies somewhere in the power supply circuit to the element.

BTW, the technique demonstrated below applies to anything where you’re trying to measure its resistance, whether it’s a heating element or a heat probe.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Don wrote:

GE convection oven model # JTP18WOW1WW Oven has blinking light “door locked” Enter in any temp for oven and DOOR comes up on screeen

Thank you
Don

Issues:

1. Door will not open after self clean cycle due to motorized latch motor stuck in closed position or

2. Grinding noise during motorized lock operation.

Both issues are caused by interference of the inner vent trim slot with the latch arm as it travels to the closed position.

Correction:

Replace both the door lock motor assembly and inner vent trim.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Amanda wrote:

Hello,
Just wanted to thank you for the great advice on forums. My 5 year old viking oven wouldn’t heat beyond 250. Per your advice, I replaced the ignitors (following your great video/picture demo). Viking service quoted me $900 to fix! I spent $112 on the ignitors and did it myself with your help. Working great now! Thank you thank you thank you!

That’s what Fixitnow.com is all about: Fix it yourself and save Big Bucks!

Here’s the page that Amanda used to help her replace the ignitor ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/08/06/how-to-replace-the-ignitor-in-a-gas-oven-a-pictorial-guide/

And here’s a tip for saving even more $$ in this repair. All oven ignitors are made of the same material: carborundum. The real variable is the length of the ceramic insulator and the type of wire connections. Here’s another fun fact to know and tell: Viking ignitors suck. They basically take the Maytag universal ignitor kit rejects, slap a Viking label on it and jack the price up almost three times. Next time, cut out the middle man (Viking) and get the Maytag universal ignitor kit:

I have successfully used this ignitor on many other brands of ranges including Viking and Garland. This ignitor is less than half the price and lasts far longer.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Kevin wrote:

Hi, Our Kenmore stove oven has delayed ignition i.e. we turn it on and perhaps 2 or 3 minutes later there’s a loud boom as the gas ignites and a smell of gas. What should we do? Thank you Kevin

Abe wrote:

I have a tappan model 30-3989-23 stove. When I turn the oven on and set the temp I hear the top console click like normal and the display shows it as being on, but the oven does not heat up.

 

The burners and top broiler works fine. In fact if I turn on the oven after using the broiler the oven temp does show that it has gone up. But the temp slowly goes down as the oven still does not work.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

tyestick wrote:

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

 

Brand: maytag

Model Number: MGR5750AAW571

Your Precious Words: No gas to oven. haven’t metered the ignitor as yet. Is it likely both oven ignitor and broiler ignitor are bad or will it be just the oven ignitor. 2003 maytag

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

(click image to purchase)

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

George wrote:

Our sealed burner GE stove model no. JGBP30WEH2WW now about seven years old still is clicking, however, the burners only llght occasionally. The simmer burner on lights rarely. The burners were cleaned as per instructions from the GE manual. Using matches the burners light immediately. What are your suggestions? New spark ignitor switches, do I do the repair, and where can I order them from.

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

benny wrote:

i have a magic chef oven model 5898vvv, approx 19 years old, the display in the clock is out out,cannot see the clock,or timer or oven settings,has benn out for quite a while,started working again the other day for a couple of hours then went out again,not sure if its the clock assembly,any hely would be appreciated

This is a bad ERC (electronic range control, a fancy word for “clock assembly”). Slam dunk. I have personally fought this battle many times.

The ERC is still available and you can buy it here.

(click it to git it)

The part comes with a one year guarantee. If it fails for any reason during that time return it for a refund or replacement. You can also return it for a refund if it doesn’t fix the problem! How ’bout them apples?

If you need help installing it, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.

If you’re getting an error code on your GE wall oven and you’re not sure whether the bad actor is the touchpad or the electronic range control (ERC) board, use this cheat sheet to test the touchpad. If the touchpad checks out good, then replace the ERC. Ees seemple, da?

Ge Wall Oven Touchpad Ohm Test

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

I’ve posted several troubleshooting tips in the past on Whirlpool’s finicky and temperamental Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) gas range (see this page). This one is a special case no-ignition case where you’ve ruled out the other possible causes that I’ve posted about previously and even replaced the DSI spark board in a desperate but blind attempt to solve the problem. Wellll, you just grab o’ them squishy lumps below your spine and come romp with with the Samurai on another DSI range repair adventure!

First thing, check for 120vac coming out of the ERC (the electronic range control, aka “clock,” also called an oven control board) and into the new DSI board at the Bake J1-6 or Broil J1-7 harness connectors.

If you don’t have this voltage, then you need a new oven ERC (oven control board) ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Model-SF378LEPS1-ID-655278-Circuit-Board-Or-Timer-Parts

If you have 120vac present, then you know the ERC is calling for heat properly. On to the gas valve…

(click to enlarge)

Both coils on the gas valve have to have continuity or it will not work. The DSI control checks this before it does a function. Also note that these coils are LOW VOLTAGE DC 8 to 18 VDC.

To test, remove the wires at the gas valve and ohm from the center terminal (Common) to the upper one (Broil); then from the center terminal (Common) to the lower one (Bake). If either one is open then you need a gas valve, get it here==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Assembly/1159151?modelNumber=GS563LXSQ0

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

http://fixitnow.com

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
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Whirlpool Range Model RF365BXPN1 Wiring Diagram

Model number variations: RF365BXPN, RF365BXP, RF365BX, RF365B

(click to enlarge)

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Amana Range Model ARR3601WW Schematic and Wiring Diagram

Model number variations: ARR3601

(click to enlarge)

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://appliantology.org
Facebook==> http://facebook.fixitnow.com
Twitter==> http://twitter.fixitnow.com
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com
SMS==> 603-505-8460