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According to the tech sheet supplied with the washer, F25 indicates a possible drive motor tachometer error. (NOTE: The tech sheet is located behind the front quarter panel– remove the three hex head screws at the very bottom to remove the panel. The tech sheets will be folded up in a little plastic pouch. If some slimeball stole yours, you can borrow mine… just be sure to return it!)

Anyway, note the emphasis on the word possible in the error code description. These error code descriptions ain’t gospel– they’re just meant to be suggested starting points in your battle. So you can’t just go ‘n replace a part “‘cuz the tech sheet sez so.” Nawsir, it just ain’t that easy.

This is one of those cases where it takes field experience and kidneys of steel of know what’s really going on here. Now, for the first time ever in on the Internet, two battle-hardened and most-wise Sublime Masters of Appliantology reveal their secret kata for defeating the vexing F25 error code in a Kenmore HE2 front-loading washer!

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To remove the front panel:

1. Locate the two (hidden) spring clips between the top cover and front panel– look in that seam with a flashlight, you’ll seem ‘em. Or you can feel them with your putty knife.

2. Insert your putty knife and push forward on the clips to release ‘em.

3. The front panel will tilt out toward you and lift off the two hooks at the bottom.

There’s an LED on the board that will flash the error code. The location of the LED and its mystical flash code interpretation are shown below.

If the LED is flashing an error code, first thing to try is resetting the inverter board:

To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.

After resetting the inverter board, put the machine in a spin cycle and see if it runs. If not, check for a green blinking light on the inverter board. It will flash failure codes according to the picture above. If no light you probably have a blown fuse built into the neutral side of the harness on the white/red wire.

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Kenmore Washer 110.23812100 Not Spinning Out Every Time

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Grok on these mind-expanding, interactive breakdown diagrams of various appliances so you can see how they’re put together. An indispensible troubleshooting and repair aid!

Air Conditioning

Dehumidifiers

Dishwashers

Disposals

Dryers

• Gas Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter on Top
• Gas Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter in Door
• Gas Maytag Style
• Gas GE Style
• Electric Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter on Top
• Electric Whirlpool Style, Lint Filter in Door
• Electric Maytag Style
• Electric GE Style

Freezers

• Chest Freezer
• Upright Freezer

Ice Makers

• In Freezer
• Free Standing

Microwave Ovens

• Counter Top
• Built In

Ovens, Ranges, and Stoves

• Gas Free Standing
• Electric Free Standing
• Gas Cook Top
• Electric Cook Top
• Gas Walloven
• Electric Walloven

Refrigerators

• Side by Side
• Freezer on Top
• Freezer on Bottom
• Freezer on Bottom

Trash Compactors

Washing Machines

• Top Load Maytag Style
• Top Load Whirlpool Style
• Top Load GE Style
• Front Load Maytag Style
• Front Load Frigidaire / GE / Kenmore Style

Note: Begin troubleshooting a no-spin condition by checking the door latch switch. If it checks good, then proceed with this flowchart. See the tech sheet with your washer for the door latch switch test procedure. The procedures described below assume that the door latch switch tests good.

The most common motor problem with this washer is no-spin; the drum may tumble, but it either never goes into spin at all or or just never ramps up to high speed spin. The tech sheet supplied with the washer (inside the cabinet, in a big envelope pasted to an inside wall– remove bottom front quarter panel to get to it) gives troubleshooting instructions but they are poorly written and difficult to follow, even for sage and battle-hardened appliantologists. The troubleshooting flowchart below from the service manual is mo’ bettah:

(click for larger image)

As noted in the flowchart, it’s pretty rare for the motor to fail in this washer, although I have seen it. The motor winding continuity checks are done through the motor wire harness at the speed control board (for convenience). If you get an open reading there, don’t take it as gospel that the motor is bad– repeat the test at the motor itself so that you’re not reading through the motor wire harness. The wire harness itself, specifically the molex connector, is a more common troublemaker than the motor.

A more common failure item causing a no-spin condition in this washer is the speed control board.

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Kicking off the Washer Corrosion Hall of Shame is this bit of metallic misery from a Frikkidaire washer:

The drum support spider in this Frigidaire washer had corroded so much that the hub and drive shaft actually broke off. Note the pitting in the metal. You can see in the closeup that the metal seems to turn into powder. That’s the galvanic corrosion that I be tawkin’ aboot, you dig? It weakened the spider structural strength so much that it failed during use. Ah, Grasshoppah, can you stand with me, our mouths agape at the raw power of chemistry?

Next up is this drum from a GE washer:

Not to be outdone by their competitors, here’s an advanced case of galvanic corrosion in a Whirlpool Duet washer (also sold as the Kenmore HE2/3t):

(click images for larger view)

Whence cometh this galvanic corrosion? Most likely because of dissimilar metals between the spider assembly and the drum setting up a galvanic cell inside the washer. The drum is stainless steel and the spider is aluminum. In the wet environment, the aluminum acts as a sacrificial anode, like the zinc rod in a water heater. Some combinations of detergents, fabric softeners, and water quality conditions may create electrochemical conditions which exacerbate this problem. Can you say, “Design flaw?”

I think the engineers at one of these companies figgered out a way to save a buck two-eighty by using an aluminum drum support spider and the engineers at the other companies just brainlessly copied it without applying gray matter. My Momma always telled me that stupid is as stupid does. I rectum now I see what she be sayin’.

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You’ll soon overload the pump’s gookus catcher and some of it is bound to get through and destroy the pump.

Persistence pays…

… about $130 in this case. Yep, that’s what a new pump for this beast will run ya, Slick. And it even includes instamalation destructions, too, at no extra charge! Y’see, Hoss, here at Fixit-the-freak-now-dot-frikkin-com, we’re always scoping the deals for you ‘cuz it’s all about you.

Replacing the pump is easy enough… once you clear all the water. Since the pump ain’t working on account of all that metal detector fodder in your pockets, the tub will be full of water. Bail as much as you can. Then remove the kickplate– three screws on the very bottom, cheek to the floor, you’ll see ‘em. See that big accordion-looking rubber thingy behind the pump? That’s the suction boot. You’ll need to remove that from the pump. It’s jobs like this where you discover why God gave man Shop Vacs. There’ll be residual water in the drum that’ll run out all over the place unless you suck it up with the Shop Vac as you ease the suction boot off the pump ever so gently. It’s a technique kind of a deal. After you do a few hundred of these, you’ll get to where you won’t even spill a drop… of blood or water.

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I’ve even seen this problem accompanied by dramatic, poltergeist-looking light dimming. Very cool!

The problem is the motor. In fact, this clicking and chugging problem was so common on this washer (example model number WBSE3120B) that GE put out a repair kit for it. The kit includes the motor and clutch (pre-assembled), wiring harness, capacitor, wire connecting goodies, and even a tri-lingual notification tag as a double-extra special bonus. Come git you one!

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I need to buy all new kitchen and laundry appliances. Which brand would you stick with (Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag). I am looking for a frenchdoor and all appliances should match…Stainless too.

Thanks,

John

Let us open our Appliantology hymnals to the Second Law of the Prophecy wherein it is written, “All appliances break.” With this wisdom firmly implanted in that muck betwixt our ears, we begin to see your question from a new perspective.

Like so many propagandized Ameedicans victimized by the slick marketing campaigns assaulting us in the corporate media organs, we see that you have placed aesthetics ahead of practical considerations, such as repairability. In other words, you have placed more importance on form over function, exactly as you have been programmed to do as a good little consumer.

But fear not, my mushy-headed grasshopper, for the Samurai is here to break the spell that the marketing wizards have placed you under. Lo, with his mighty katana, he shall cut asunder the chains of your programming and free you from the trap of mindless consumerism! Let us begin by re-phrasing your question in the way the Samurai would ax it, “Knowing that all modern appliance brands and models are mediocre at best and that all fall short of the glory of the Samurai, which piece of junk am I going to have the easiest time fixing?”

Ahh, Grasshoppah, now you’re beginning to pierce the veil and to do what we professional appliantologists call, “critical thinking.” Using this new, enlightened paradigm, which emphasizes function over form and recognizes the Second Law of the Prophecy, the question further reduces to, “Which appliance manufacturers make their service manuals and technical bulletins freely and readily available to professional appliantologists as well as Joe Do-it-yourselfer?” Eggzellent question, my querying grasshoppah, domo fer axin’!

Currently, there are only two brands which make their service information freely available: Whirlpool (which includes Kitchenaid, Roper, and Maytag brands) and Frigidaire (which includes Electrolux brands). Emphasis on the word, “currently” because Whirlpool is considering restricting access to their technical information to professional appliantologists only– you can thank the over-abundance of lawyers and the bidness-killing tort system in Ameedica for that.

At the other end of the information spectrum are companies that are very restrictive with their technical service information and, for that reason, I would never even consider buying their stuff. The worst offenders in the infowar are Viking and GE. In the case of Viking, they’re not only tight-fisted with their service manuals, but their ranges are the shoddiest on the market. And you get to pay a premium price tag just to have the “Viking” badge in your kitchen. Viking is the poster boy of what I mean by placing form over function.

Awwite, armed with this sacred wisdom and enlightened perspective, gird up thy loins and go git ‘em!

While I was in there, I got some pictures of the innards. Come tiptoe thru the pulleys with me…

Basic View with Front Panel Removed

BTW, you can click the pics for the larger view with illuminating annotations.

Main Drive Guts

Closeup of Belt

T-Bearing

Pump

Live Action Movie!
If you watch closely, you’ll see the legendary wigwag in action.

How to String the Belt

Schematic – Pasted Inside the Panel

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Bosch Washer Door Stuck Closed

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LG Front Load Washer No Tumble

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Here’s the brand new clutch and pulley assembly you’ll need for this job (click the pic to order it, right here online!):

A talented Senior Apprentice Appliantologist, dh1200s, has written an illustrated step-by-step for this repair and posted it in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum. For your reading pleasure, I’ve included his fine write-up below.

dh1200s wrote:

Tools required; 3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt; 5/16″ nut driver or 5/16, ¼” socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual.

1. Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.

2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.

3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease. Most machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.

4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.

5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.

6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8″ gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).

7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.

Some Pics for reference; not sure what Mytag calls the coupler that drives the spinner shaft coupler so I named it.

My original clutch is on the right side clutch on the left is a new $50 replacement I wanted to try and it and it works fine in my series 16 nachine. My series 16 machine does not use the upper roller clutch bearing assembly.

Clutch opened up:

Some folks have found the spinner shaft coupler is rusted solid to the one-way roller clutch bearing.

I hope this will help others with their clutch issues on this machine type. Dick

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This is called the stupid plumber’s trick. Don’t do it! If you have a problem with scale gunking up the valve and restricting flow, then fix that problem by installing a water sediment filter! Removing the protective inlet screen just creates bigger and much more expensive problems.

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One sign that the clutch is slipping is that it’ll feel really, really hot after running for just a few minutes.

Once you’re sure you’re dealing with a slipping clutch, Sublime Master of Appliantology Willie B has a cheap and clever bandaid repair that’ll keep it going for a good while longer, maybe even as long as you continue to own the machine!

Related Posts:

Intrepid Apprentice Conquers a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer with a Lazy Spin

Common Repairs on a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

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Sublime Master RegUS has posted the wiring diagram, tech sheet, parts manual, and service manual fer ya ratcheer. Come git you some!