Here’s what I’m talking about:
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Here’s what I’m talking about:
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Susan wrote:
I am in need of a new washer and dryer and have limited space. I am thinking of a stackable washer and dryer and wondering what you think of that option. Are you aware of any problems with this type of washer/dryer? Thanks
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
James wrote:
ge gas, model jgbs20bea1wh, oven ing. lites up gas valve has 2.8 ac. oven worked fine till removed painted wall installed gas line top works fine oven stoped
Hi, James. Well, I am trying to understand your cryptic e-mail to me made even more difficult to understand by your sparse use of punctuation. But if I am interpreting it correctly it sounds like maybe you’re getting 2.8 amps of current to the igniter? You did not say what you were actually measuring, you just said “2.8 ac”, I don’t know whether that is current or voltage. “AC” stands for “alternating current” which is a common type of household electrical supply. But AC can be measured in watts (power), voltage, current (amps), usage over time (kw-hours), etc.
I will assume that you measured current since what you reported is a typical under current reading thru a gas range ignitor. Assuming that this is the case, the solution would be to replace the igniter. Here’s the part link to the ignitor you need to fix your oven ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Igniter/WB13K21/2494?modelNumber=JGBS20BEA1WH
A good igniter will draw a minimum current of at least 3.2 amps. Since yours is well below that, this would indicate that there is insufficient current flowing through the igniter to open the gas valve and let gas through to the bake burner tube.
I’m not sure about your reference to a painted wall. I will assume that you are referring to cabinetry around the oven that was changed or modified. If so, this in itself should have no effect whatsoever on the operation of the oven bake ignitor. It could however have an affect on the cooling of the oven if there were insufficient ventilation. But again, this does not affect the ignition of the bake burner.
The Appliantology Academy is the place to get free, interactive appliance repair help from internationally-renown Master Appliantologists. Just create a free account and you’re good to go as a Grasshopper.
But to unleash the real power of the Academy, become an Apprentice to get repair manuals and lots of other goodies. This screencast explains the benefits of Apprenticeship, how to become one, and how to get repair manuals at the site.
CHuckH wrote:
I have a Maytag Perfroma 2300 Series electric dryer. Last night it stopped working. The dryer will not turn on in any setting. Where do I start troubleshooting so that I know what part(s) I may need to replace. I have already checked the house circuit breaker and there is no issue there. Thanks for the help! CHuck
The first step in any appliance no-operation condition is to verify the power supply. In the case of an electric dryer, that means 240vac from L1 to L2 and 120vac from each L1 and L2 to neutral. This is done at the back of the dryer at the terminal block where the power cord connects, like ahso:
If power supply is good, then what you have sounds like a classic case of a bad thermal fuse. Electric dryers are designed so that when the thermal fuse opens, it kills power to the motor and heating element.
Here’s the link to the replacement thermal fuse with a how-to video ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/3392519/2986
BTW, the number one cause of thermal fuses opening is a dryer vent with excessive back pressure. A vent can be totally free of lint and still be bad. The name of the game is back pressure: crimps, using the slinky material, stuck outside vent hood, etc. Read more ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/05/14/mailbag-dryer-keeps-blowing-thermal-fuses/
Paul wrote:
I have a Kenmore model 110.82873120 (20 years old) that will agitate but will not pump water out of tub or spin. Is it worth repairing?
Click the play button below to listen to Samurai’s reply right here on the Web! (If the audio player below doesn’t show up in your browser because you’re on an iPad, iPhone or really, really old browser, you can listen to it at this link ==> http://cinch.fm/fixitnowsamurai/401647 )
Part link to the lid switch with how-to video ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Switch/279347/3406?modelNumber=110.82873120
Randy wrote:
Washer will not final spin in Regular wash. But works fine in all other cycles. It skips to the last part of the spin cycle and leaves water in machine. I just move switch to other cycle and it works fine. Looking for trouble shooting manual or repair manuals for this washer. 417.40042990 washer model #
If the washing machine is not doing the final spin, then it is probably not spinning during the other parts of the cycle, either. You probably haven’t sat in front of the washer to babysit it during a complete cycle to see whether or not this is the case, though I can guarantee you it is.
The fact that the washer is leaving water in the tub is the key to the problem here. The rule with front loaders is this: no pumpy, no spinny.
So, to begin this repair journey, you would begin right at the pump itself. The first thing to find out is whether or not the pump is actually running during the spin cycle. You can do this by listening (if you know what you’re listening for) or by checking for voltage 120vac at the pump wire harness during the beginning of the spin cycle.
If the pump is getting voltage but not running, then the pump is bad; replace it. ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Parts
If the pump is getting voltage and you hear it running– or trying to run– then either the pump is bad or the drain hose is plugged. To proceed in this case, remove the drain hose from the pump, pucker up and blow like a fish. You should clear an initial slug of water and then the drain hose should blow through freely. If the drain hose is clear, and you hear the pump running during the spin cycle, then the the pump is bad; replace it. ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Parts
You can buy the replacement pump right here with a 365 day return policy. 8)
You need repair manuals? We got your manuals right here, pally-boy! In the Appliantology Academy, we can get you any type of manual your little heart desires, including the manual for your washing machine. You will, however, need to be an Apprentice in order to download them. Access to service manuals is just one of the many benefits that comes with an Apprenticeship at the Appliantology Academy. Learn more ==> http://apprentice.appliantology.org
Most of the appliances made today have circuit boards in them. This is to help make them more “energy efficient” as mandated by the Energy Star requirements, to save costs over using discreet mechanical switches, and also to make them more amenable to being controlled through the Smart Grid nightmare being unleashed across the country. Point is, if you’ve bought a major appliance recently, then it has at least one, maybe more, over-priced and shoddily-made circuit boards in them that will one day go poof at the worst possible time. I guarantee it.
When that fateful day arrives, you have two choices:
– Buy a new circuit board (thru www.Fixitnow.com, www.Appliantology.org, or www.ApplianceGuru.com 8) 365-day return policy on parts ordered thru those sites!)
– Repair your existing board
If the failure is not something visible, there’s a slim-to-none chance that you’ll be able to repair it because the appliance manufacturers guard the schematic and tech info on the circuit boards like the secret ingredient to Coca-Cola (psst, it’s high-fructose corn syrup).
If, however, you remove the control board in your Bosch dishwasher or the muthaboard in your GE refrigerator and you see an obvious burn spot, well, you got nothing to lose by going ahead and taking a whack at trying to fix it. Worst case scenario: your repair will fail and you’ll have to buy a new control board.
I’ve previously posted some repair tips for working with electronic circuit boards. But here’s an annotated photo describing some common repair techniques for the types of burn damage to circuit boards that you’re likely to actually encounter. Click the image for a larger view.
If you need more help fixing your appliances, whether or not it has to do with the circuit boards in ’em, come start a new topic in the Appliantology Academy and we’ll help fix y’up ==> www.Appliantology.org
We don’t do politically-correct anything here in Samurai Land, and that includes replacing the day of venerating Saint Patrick with some nebulous and limp-wristed “O’Green Day.” Nawsir, Saint Patrick IS a real person who fundamentally transformed the Samurai’s paternal ancestral homeland, Ireland. Given the vast horde of us sons and daughters of Ireland out there and the profound influence we’ve had on the world (through sheer numbers, if nothing else), his day of commemoration should continue to be observed.
Saint Patrick is venerated by both the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox Churches. Here is a brief hagiography of St. Patrick from the Orthodox Church in America website:
Saint Patrick, the Enlightener of Ireland was born around 385, the son of Calpurnius, a Roman decurion (an official responsible for collecting taxes). He lived in the village of Bannavem Taberniae, which may have been located at the mouth of the Severn River in Wales. The district was raided by pirates when Patrick was sixteen, and he was one of those taken captive. He was brought to Ireland and sold as a slave, and was put to work as a herder of swine on a mountain identified with Slemish in Co. Antrim. During his period of slavery, Patrick acquired a proficiency in the Irish language which was very useful to him in his later mission.
He prayed during his solitude on the mountain, and lived this way for six years. He had two visions. The first told him he would return to his home. The second told him his ship was ready. Setting off on foot, Patrick walked two hundred miles to the coast. There he succeeded in boarding a ship, and returned to his parents in Britain.
Some time later, he went to Gaul and studied for the priesthood at Auxerre under St Germanus (July 31). Eventually, he was consecrated as a bishop, and was entrusted with the mission to Ireland, succeeding St Palladius (July 7). St Palladius did not achieve much success in Ireland. After about a year he went to Scotland, where he died in 432.
Patrick had a dream in which an angel came to him bearing many letters. Selecting one inscribed “The Voice of the Irish,” he heard the Irish entreating him to come back to them.
Although St Patrick achieved remarkable results in spreading the Gospel, he was not the first or only missionary in Ireland. He arrived around 432 (though this date is disputed), about a year after St Palladius began his mission to Ireland. There were also other missionaries who were active on the southeast coast, but it was St Patrick who had the greatest influence and success in preaching the Gospel of Christ. Therefore, he is known as “The Enlightener of Ireland.”
His autobiographical Confession tells of the many trials and disappointments he endured. Patrick had once confided to a friend that he was troubled by a certain sin he had committed before he was fifteen years old. The friend assured him of God’s mercy, and even supported Patrick’s nomination as bishop. Later, he turned against him and revealed what Patrick had told him in an attempt to prevent his consecration. Many years later, Patrick still grieved for his dear friend who had publicly shamed him.
St Patrick founded many churches and monasteries across Ireland, but the conversion of the Irish people was no easy task. There was much hostility, and he was assaulted several times. He faced danger, and insults, and he was reproached for being a foreigner and a former slave. There was also a very real possibility that the pagans would try to kill him. Despite many obstacles, he remained faithful to his calling, and he baptized many people into Christ.
The saint’s Epistle to Coroticus is also an authentic work. In it he denounces the attack of Coroticus’ men on one of his congregations. The Breastplate (Lorica) is also attributed to St Patrick. In his writings, we can see St Patrick’s awareness that he had been called by God, as well as his determination and modesty in undertaking his missionary work. He refers to himself as “a sinner,” “the most ignorant and of least account,” and as someone who was “despised by many.” He ascribes his success to God, rather than to his own talents: “I owe it to God’s grace that through me so many people should be born again to Him.”
By the time he established his episcopal See in Armargh in 444, St Patrick had other bishops to assist him, many native priests and deacons, and he encouraged the growth of monasticism.
St Patrick is often depicted holding a shamrock, or with snakes fleeing from him. He used the shamrock to illustrate the doctrine of the Holy Trinity. Its three leaves growing out of a single stem helped him to explain the concept of one God in three Persons. Many people now regard the story of St Patrick driving all the snakes out of Ireland as having no historical basis.
St Patrick died on March 17, 461 (some say 492). There are various accounts of his last days, but they are mostly legendary. Muirchu says that no one knows the place where St Patrick is buried. St Columba of Iona (June 9) says that the Holy Spirit revealed to him that Patrick was buried at Saul, the site of his first church. A granite slab was placed at his traditional grave site in Downpatrick in 1899.
Bill wrote:
I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your candor and website. GE had the audacity to tell me that repair was “beyond their level of expertise” but I should schedule an appointment anyway (haha!) I have learned enough from your site in the last five years I could about rebuild the pigdog from scratch. Anyway – thanks !
That’s awesome! Mucho domos, Bill! 8)
Jim wrote:
I noticed my washer was leaking water and i took the front cover off and noticed that on the bottom of the outer plastic tub there is a crack would an epoxy cement seal this up .I checked on the replacement of the tub and it is costly.
This is an easy fix using 3M 800 tub sealant adhesive. Or you can use a spiffy product called Slap Stix made for this very purpose. Either way, it’s a pretty easy and reliable repair.
If you need help disassembling your washer to get at the crack in the outer tub, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the Appliantology Academy and we shall reveal that kata to you ==> www.Appliantology.org
Rachel wrote:
Just wanted to say thanks for helping me diagnose my fridge leaking from the water dispenser. You were right on and even made it easy to order the part. You rock!
Thanks, Rachel! And way to go on the repair!
For others coming along and reading this, here’s the post that helped Rachel fix her drippy dispenser ==> http://fixitnow.com/wp/2007/12/02/ge-profile-refrigerator-leaking-from-the-water-dispenser/
To learn more about your refrigerator or to order parts, click here ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Refrigerator-Repair-Help
Ron wrote:
Hi. I have a 20-year old Whirlpool Fridge; top freezer model # ET18ZKXXW00. I love the fridge, but…about 6 months ago i replaced the defrost timer on the advice of an appliance parts store. Fridge was always running, freezer was full of ice and fridge unit was warm.
i took the back off and it too was covered in ice. I defrosted everything, replaced the timer and the unit is still constantly running.
Last week i unplugged it for a couple of hours to melt some of the ice in the freezer, took the back off and melted the ice that was encasing the coils.
what could the issue be?
Two problems right off the bat:
1. You replaced the defrost timer without knowing or proving that it was the real problem or bad to begin with.
2. You didn’t buy your parts thru Fixitnow.com! 🙁 Fun fact to know and tell: if you had purchased the defrost timer thru this site and it didn’t fix the problem, you could have returned it for a refund! Can you do that at your parts store? No? So… Why do you buy there?
Okay, enough scolding. Let’s get your fridge fixed!
The defrost system consists of three components: the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater. If any one of these three components goes bad, then the refrigerator will not defrost and ice will accumulate on the evaporator coil as you are seeing. Since you have already replaced the defrost timer, that only leaves the other two components as possible suspects.
Both the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat are easy to test with a multimeter. For the defrost heater, measure the resistance through the heater with your meter. The resistance should be something in the low ohms; the exact ohm reading is not important as long as it is something low. High resistance in the kilo-ohms or mega-ohms range or open is a bad defrost heater and it should be replaced.
To test the defrost thermostat, remove the thermostat from the evaporator by unclipping it and place it into a glass of ice water. Let the defrost thermostat sit in the ice water for about five or ten minutes and then measure the continuity through the defrost thermostat. Again, if it reads open or very high resistance, then the defrost thermostat is bad and must be replaced.
Not surprisingly, you can buy the new defrost heater or new defrost thermostat right here through this website! 8) Just enter your model number here ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Whirlpool-Refrigerator-Parts
If you need more help troubleshooting and repairing your refrigerator, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum at the Appliantology Academy and we’ll step you thru it for free ==> www.Appliantology.org