Samsung Over-the-Range Microwave Recall
November 18th, 2009 by Samurai Appliance Repair ManShock hazard. Danger, Will Robinson!
Shock hazard. Danger, Will Robinson!
Kenmore washer stops.
Raise and lower lid: restarts.
A flakey lid switch.
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This washer is actually the Whirlpool Duet Sport washer with a Kenwhore label slapped on it. The model number of the insolent washer in this case is 110.46462501.
According to the tech sheet supplied with the washer, F25 indicates a possible drive motor tachometer error. (NOTE: The tech sheet is located behind the front quarter panel– remove the three hex head screws at the very bottom to remove the panel. The tech sheets will be folded up in a little plastic pouch. If some slimeball stole yours, you can borrow mine… just be sure to return it!)
Anyway, note the emphasis on the word possible in the error code description. These error code descriptions ain’t gospel– they’re just meant to be suggested starting points in your battle. So you can’t just go ‘n replace a part “‘cuz the tech sheet sez so.” Nawsir, it just ain’t that easy.
This is one of those cases where it takes field experience and kidneys of steel of know what’s really going on here. Now, for the first time ever in on the Internet, two battle-hardened and most-wise Sublime Masters of Appliantology reveal their secret kata for defeating the vexing F25 error code in a Kenmore HE2 front-loading washer!
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Example model number for this washing machine is WPRE6100. If you’re having a no-go problem with this machine, one of the first things to check is the error code on the inverter board. The inverter is located down in the motor, remove the front panel to see it.
To remove the front panel:
1. Locate the two (hidden) spring clips between the top cover and front panel– look in that seam with a flashlight, you’ll seem ‘em. Or you can feel them with your putty knife.
2. Insert your putty knife and push forward on the clips to release ‘em.
3. The front panel will tilt out toward you and lift off the two hooks at the bottom.
There’s an LED on the board that will flash the error code. The location of the LED and its mystical flash code interpretation are shown below.
If the LED is flashing an error code, first thing to try is resetting the inverter board:
To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.
After resetting the inverter board, put the machine in a spin cycle and see if it runs. If not, check for a green blinking light on the inverter board. It will flash failure codes according to the picture above. If no light you probably have a blown fuse built into the neutral side of the harness on the white/red wire.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
JKJK65 wrote:
Kitchenaid undercounter dishwasher KUDM01TJWHO
When you press start the normal and wash light comes on and sounds like water starts for about 5 seconds then water heating light comes on for 2 seconds then rinse light then the dry light and then the clean light all for about 2 seconds each then the clean light goes right out instead of staying on. It basically goes through all the cycles in about 11 seconds. If I press one of the special options the light will not stay on. The motor all sounds a little like it is binding, but not sure. This all started when my son was pushing all the buttons. Not sure if it is a coincidence or he did something. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
Sounds like your son managed to put the dishwasher in sales demo mode. There’s a keypad dance to change it’s tune.
Press the following key sequence in less than 3 seconds:
High Temp – Air Dry – Air Dry – High Temp – Air Dry – Air Dry
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
Freaky appliance
flashing mysterious code.
Mystery revealed!
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Buy Parts for your Dacor Dishwasher
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Fixitnow.com offers a complete line of appliance parts for all brands and models through our parts partner, RepairClinic. We could have partnered with any number of other appliance parts retailers on the web, but we chose RepairClinic. You won’t find a more complete selection of appliance parts, better customer service, or a more lenient return policy anywhere else. And all at great prices! By clicking through to RepairClinic using the links below or anywhere else at Fixitnow.com or ApplianceGuru.com, a small percentage of your purchase goes to supporting this website without costing you one penny more for the parts you order. So, if you’re going to order appliance parts anyway, how ’bout using the links on this website to ensure that the Samurai will be here the next time you need appliance repair help? Rock on! ![]()
Like to shop locally? Hey, you can’t get anymore local than right here on your compooter screen!
And does your "local" parts house give you a 30-day no-hassle return policy? Even on electronic control boards that you already installed? No? So… why do you buy there?
I‘ve got some convenient parts search tools right on this page, too. You can either use the yellow parts search box at the top of the page or browse by brand below:
Intermittent spin.
Replaced clutch; same-o, same-o.
Burn spot in timer.
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Kenmore Washer 110.23812100 Not Spinning Out Every Time
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, clickhere.
Maytag french door fridge
lights blink, ice door flaps, no water:
Grok Steve’s awesome guide.
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To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.
Problem: Dryer warm but clothes take too long to dry.
Solution: Dryer is dirty with lint inside, vent is excessively long, or filled with lint. FIRE HAZARD!
The house dryer vent line is notorious for being neglected and most people don’t even think about cleaning it out periodically. You’ll wanna clean that sucker out about every two to three years. There are services that specialize in dryer vent cleaning. Or come git you a vent cleaning brush on a 12 foot wire wound coil, and you can get ‘er done yourself.
Other things besides poor venting that can cause this problem: Intermittent burner coils, faulty thermostats, reduced airflow through machine (poor vent). If dryer is electric, make sure you’re getting 240vac at the wall outlet. Check both rails of the 240 VAC supply… may be getting only 120 VAC. I’m just sayin’.
Problem: Drum turns but no heat at all.
Solution:
Gas dryers– Maybe a burner component failed. Check coils, flame switch, igniter, motor centrifugal switch, thermal fuse, thermostat, hi-limit thermostat, belt switch.
Electric dryers– Centrifugal switch (built into the motor), heating element, thermal fuse, thermostat, hi-limit thermostat, broken belt switch. I have a special page just for you on things that can cause an electric dryer to not heat.
Problem: Drum wont turn.
Solution: Is the motor turning? “But, Samurai, I am but a Grasshoppah, how am I supposed to know these things?” Use your earballs, Slick; do you hear the freakin’ thing running? Could be a broken belt, seized belt idler wheel, foreign crapicus jammed in drum.
Problem: Dryer makes a scraping sound.
Solution: Worn rollers; worn drum glides or drum bearing (especially common on Frigidaire dryers); crapicus jammed in the drum; cheesey idler pulley.
Problem: Dryer getting too hot.
Solution: Stuck thermostat, airflow backing up from restricted vent. WARNING WILL ROBINSON: FIRE HAZARD! DANGER! DANGER!
Problem: Rumbling sound (particularly noticeable when the dryer starts).
Solution: Worn out blower wheel– especially common on Maytag models, also some Frigidaire. I’ve yet to see this problem on a Whirlpool model, though I suspect the models with the lint filter in front are susceptible to this.
Problem: Dryer runs normally then shuts down for about 10-15 minutes then starts back up again by itself.
Solution: Drum motor over-current or thermal relay is tripping. May be due to hot air being blown against the motor or just a motor that’s old and drawing too much current. Check vent connections, clean out dryer / house vent.
And many, many more more dryer problems and solutions await you in the Online Dryer Diagnostic Guide and the Complete Compendium of Dryer FAQs.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
Appliance Breakdown Diagrams
Grok on these mind-expanding, interactive breakdown diagrams of various appliances so you can see how they’re put together. An indispensible troubleshooting and repair aid!
Dryers
Freezers
Ice Makers
Microwave Ovens
Ovens, Ranges, and Stoves
Refrigerators
Washing Machines
How to Remove the Knobs and Front Panel from a Viking Dishwasher
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Buy Parts for your Dacor Wall Oven
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A common problem you run into when working on older appliances is that the schematic and wiring diagram are missing– usually because the slimeball who worked on it before you stole it. This happened recently to a tech in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum where Sublime Master of Appliantology Pegi was able to locate it for him. Such is the power of the forum! In his case, he needed diagrams for a GE JKP36G004BG double wall oven. They’re posted below; if you need it, go ahead and download it.
Schematic and Wiring Diagram for the GE JKP36G004BG Oven
To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here