Troubleshooting a Whirlpool Duet Front Load Washer that Won’t Start

In this video, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, shows you how to troubleshoot a problem with a newer Whirlpool front load washer (one of the new Alpha2 platform washers) that acts like it wants to start but won’t. Watch with shock and awe as the Samurai ruthlessly hunts down the miscreant part like a mad dog and guides you through the troubleshooting process both on the physical machine itself and the schematic diagram, illustrating a graceful but deadly use of the continuity test to pinpoint the problem.

Here’s the door latch assembly I replaced to fix this washer.

Tools for Appliance Repair

Appliance repair is a trade that uses both common and specialized tools. In this video, I show you the basic tools you need to have with you, either in your tool backpack or in your vehicle, on every service call you go on.

Ryobi P882 One+ 18v Lithium-Ion Drill and Impact Driver Kit
Ryobi TEK4 4-Volt Screwdriver
JH Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver
BOSTITCH BTMT72275 Specialty Wrench Bit Set, 32-Piece
Genau Gear 3730 Soft Cushion All Purpose Knee Pads, Navy Blue
Motion Pro (08-0485) 6″ Magnetic Parts Dish
SKIL 2354-01 iXO 4-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Palm-Sized Cordless Screwdriver
Fluke 117/322 Electricians Multimeter and Clamp Meter Combo Kit
Milwaukee 49-66-4562 Shockwave 1-7/8-Inch Magnetic Nutdriver Set
9 Piece Metric Quick Change Magnetic Nutsetter Set
TEKTON 1916 Combination Wrench Set, SAE/Metric, 24-Piece
MAXCRAFT 60199 1/4-Inch Dual-Drive Mini Ratchet Driver
62 Pc Metrinch Combo Spanner Socket & Wrench Set
TEKTON 7609 Telescoping Lighted Inspection Mirror
IIT 21560 Pick & Hook Set with Rubber Grip – 6 Piece
Stanley 28-140 1-1/4-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife
Linzer 7103S Plastic Putty Knives, 3-Inch
GE 50725 Cable Ties, Nylon Assorted Sizes, 650 Per Pack
Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet Tester
TEKTON 1491 3/8-Inch Quick-Release Drive Swivel Head Ratchet, 72-Tooth Round Head
TEKTON 7597 36-Inch Claw Pick-Up Tool
TEKTON 7601 Telescoping Magnetic Pick-Up Tool
Klein 11055 Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper/Cutter, Blue with Yellow Stripe, 10 – 20 ga.
Klein Tools 1005 9-3/4-Inch Crimping and Cutting Tool for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals
Custom LeatherCraft 1132 75-Pocket Tool Backpack
Princeton Tec Apex 275 Lumen Led Headlamp
Grease Monkey Gorilla Grip Gloves
Custom Leathercraft 125M Handyman Flex Grip Work Gloves, Medium
Knipex 002006S1 3-Piece Cobra Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch)
Stanley 84-114 3 Piece Basic 6-Inch Slip Joint, 6-Inch Long Nose, and 6-Inch Diagonal Plier Set
Stanley 66-095 3/8-Inch Vinyl Grip Square Blade Screwdriver
Victorinox Swiss Army Deluxe Tinker, Red
Victorinox Cordura Belt Pouch Swiss Army Knife Pouches Black 33214
Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish
Irwin Industrial Tools 2078700 6-Inch and 10-Inch Adjustable Wrench Set, 2-Piece
Irwin Tools 36- 2 Piece Original Locking Pliers Set Contains: 1 Each 7WR and 6LN
Set of 6 – Heavy Duty 6-Inch Steel Spring Clamp with PVC Grip
MAXCRAFT 60626 8-oz. Stubby Claw Hammer
Amprobe VP-440 Non-Contact Volt Detector
Kintrex IRT0421 Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer with Laser Targeting
McCulloch MC1230 Handheld Steam Cleaner
ArmorAll AA255 Utility Wet/Dry Vacuum

Fridge only runs 5 or 6 seconds at a time, freezer defrosted, food spoiling

Your Name: Flower

Type of Appliance: Refrigerator

Brand: whirlpool

Model Number: GS6SHAXMS00

Your Precious Words:
Fridge runs for 5-6 seconds at a time. Not enough time to cool off. Coils are clean, fan in rear is running fine. Its been 2 days and the freezer is totally defrosted and fridge is getting warm inside

This sounds to me like what we professional appliantologists call the “hum-click cha-cha.” That’s where, every few minutes, the compressor tries to start making that humming sound, but then clicks off. What’s happening is the compressor start relay has fried and is preventing the compressor from starting.

It’s a straight forward repair… if you just look out for a couple things shown in a couple of my videos below:

Gas dryer ignitor glows for a moment then goes out, burner never fires up, clothes do not dry

Your Name: Larry

Type of Appliance: Dryer


Model Number: LGQ9508PWO

Your Precious Words:
Have read the post but what makes this strange to me is that it worked fine, moved it 20 feet, other side of the wall it was on, same exhaust connection and same gas line but new connections. Finished the move, fired it up and all that happened is the “pilot” flame ignited but the system did not kick in. Cloths do not dry.

Thoughts on this.

Thank you in advance.

This model does not have a pilot flame. What you’re seeing is the hot surface ignitor glowing momentarily but then going out because the gas valve is failing to open. This is a classic sign of bad gas valve coils. Very easy and inexpensive to replace. Watch videos on how to replace dryer gas valve coils for various dryer models.

Light inside GE range oven goes out when the oven gets hot

Your Name: Ricky

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: GE electric range

Model Number: JB700SNSS

Your Precious Words:
The inside oven light seems to turn off when the oven gets hot. You can leave oven light on all night without using the oven and it stays on all night. Any ideas?

What’s happening is that the oven light socket is warping as it heats up, causing the bulb to lose electrical contact. Replacing the light socket is easy and inexpensive. Watch a video on how to replace the oven light socket. You can also buy the new light socket there, too.

Frigidaire Top-Load Washer Squealed During the Spin Cycle and Now Won’t Spin

Your Name: Emily

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Frigidaire

Model Number: FWS223RFS1

Your Precious Words:
The machine squealed during the spin cycle on two separate occasions. I stopped and resettled the clothes and it was fine. Today it doesn’t spin at all. I have checked the belt and it looks fine. I have not yet investigated the pulley drive. I’m curious if it might be the timer. You mention the lid switch as a possibility. Which way should I investigate first (I’ll need to borrow tools). Thanks. I bow before to the Samurai Warrior of Appliance Repair. Cheers

The squealing noise is almost certainly the spin bearing, an inexpensive part and actually not hard at all to replace. And as long as you’ve got the machine torn down to replace the spin bearing, might as well replace the tub seal assembly while you’re at it because the leaking tub seal is probably what made the spin bearing go bad. Here are videos showing you how to replace these parts…

The no-spin condition is a little trickier because it could simply be the spin bearing is locked up, in which case, replacing it as shown above will take care of it. Or, it could be something else like a bad lid switch. You might want to go ahead and buy the lid switch at the some time you buy the spin bearing and tub seal so you’ll have it on hand. If it turns out you don’t need the lid switch, return it for a refund!

Replace the spin bearing and tub seal first because you definitely need to. If the washer still doesn’t spin, then go ahead and replace the lid switch, too. This video shows you how…

You had asked about the timer; there’s a very small possibility that the timer is bad but I think it’s very unlikely because I usually see the timers fail in a different way than what you’re describing. Lid switch, spin bearing, and tub seal are the most likely culprits. If you want to make sure, you can use you’re meter and see if you’re getting 120vac on the lid switch wire harness. We can give you details on how to do this in the Appliantology Appliance Repair Forums.

Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer Getting SD, F21, and F33 Error Codes, Slow Draining and Loud Drain Pump

Your Name: Madonna

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Whirlpool Duet Sport

Model Number: WFW8300SW01

Your Precious Words:
Have been getting SD error followed by F-21 error. Manually drained washer and checked for anything in the drain pump filter, nothing there. Plugged back in and did drain/spin cycle and the washer would drain. After manually draining this time and starting drain/spin cycle, just heard a hum. The drain motor was previously very load. It didn’t drain and this time I got a F-33 error and noticed the drain pump was very warm to the touch.

All of the error codes and symptoms you’re describing, including the loud drain pump, are all classic signs of one thing: replace the drain pump.

One of the characteristics of these washers is that when the drain pump starts making loud buzzing or grinding noises while running, the bearings in it are shot and the pump is no longer moving water out fast enough. The control board senses this and throws the various error codes you’re seeing, as if screaming out, “Replace my drain pump now!

Here’s the replacement drain pump you need, comes with a one year return policy.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Frigidaire Front Load Washer Won’t Spin, Code E47

Your Name: Rob

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Frigidaire

Model Number: GLTF2940es0

Your Precious Words:
Machine won’t spin. Ran though the diagnostics and it said code e47 – board thinks PTC circuit is open. From reading forums, I think I need a new wax motor, but I’m not sure which part number that is or what it looks like. Can you help? Thanks

The rule of thumb on Frigidaire front loaders is that for any error code in the 40’s, replace the lock assembly. I replace so many of them that I make sure to keep at least two on the Guru Mobile at all times. Here’s the door latch assembly you need:

Buy the new door latch assembly here and it comes with a one year return policy. In other words, if you install it and it doesn’t fix it (but it will), you can return it for a refund.

Watch The Appliance Guru in action as he shows you a special troubleshooting trick and how to replace it:

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Samsung DMT800 Dishwasher with a 9E error code

Your Name: Caleb

Type of Appliance: Dishwasher

Brand: Samsung

Model Number: DMT800

Your Precious Words:
Dishwasher is having a error code 9e, low water leavel, don’t seem to be able to find a part or a picture of the part or a picture of a part break down of the dishwasher. Searching internet for answers, no luck. Low leavel water float switch need to make repair. Don’t have a part # to order part. Can you help? Thank you for your time.

This is a classic symptom of a clogged sensor hose or the sensor itself has gookus on it. Here’s the part you need:

Samsung DMT800 dishwasher sensor

More info in this topic at the Appliantology Appliance Repair Forums:

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

Whirlpool Duet washer Control Lock button light is stuck on and controls locked

Your Name: felecia

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Whrilpool Duet HT

Model Number: GHW9300PW4

Your Precious Words:
did a load of laundry came back threw it in the dryer and went to start another load and I noticed the control lock button is on. Now my washer is basically frozen. I tried unplugging and holding down the start and cancel buttons.

Piece of pie, tovarish! Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for 3 seconds. On some models, you need to hold it down for 5 seconds.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Amana front load washer with no power

Your Name: Claudia

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Amana

Model Number: NFW7200TW

Your Precious Words:
My Amana NFW7200TW washer will not power on. I had loaded a small load, heard it start to fill, then walked away for an hour. When I returned NO power.
I have power at the receptical, but unpluged it overnight. Checked water lines, one filter was plugged, so I cleaned it. Still no power.

If you confirmed that you have power at the receptacle (by using a meter or plugging in a lamp or something else) then it’s time to crawl into the belly of the beast. Actually, we’ll just be going into the control panel so it’s probably more accurate to say the “brain of the beast” but that just didn’t have the same rhythm and imagery that I was going for.

This is pretty easy to do. Just unplug the washer, remove the top panel, dispenser drawer, and a couple of screws in the front of the control panel, then tilt the control panel forward. These steps are demonstrated in this video.

Next, plug the washer back in and use your meter to check for 120vac at the control board in the locations listed in the image below in the “AC Power Check” section. Click the image for a larger view that opens in a new window.

If you’re getting 120vac up to the board and lights or anything on the control console, then you need to replace the control board. You can buy the replacement board here with a one year return guarantee.

Amana washer control board

If you’re not getting voltage to the control board, then you may have a bad connection somewhere and you’ll need to use your meter and the wiring diagram on the tech sheet (located in a pouch under the top cabinet panel that you removed to access the control board) to troubleshoot and find where you’re missing the voltage. I show you how to do this using real-world examples, including a front loading washer, in my seminal tome, “Using the Tech Sheet Schematic to Root Out Appliance Gremlins.”

If you need more help, come to the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums, become an Apprentice, and start a new topic for interactive repair help from Master Appliantologists. We’re here to help!

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Dryer accumulates excessive lint and takes a long time to dry a load of clothes

Your Name: Doug

Type of Appliance: Dryer

Brand: Whirlpool

Model Number: ggw9200lw0

Your Precious Words:
I’ve had an issue a couple of different times with my Whirlpool Duet Dryer and it concerns me. Three different times, there has been enough lint accumulated in the lower compartment that it caught on fire. I’ve checked the exhaust vent and clean it regularly, same for the bottom compartment. Still, it seems like a considerable amount of lint makes it down to the bottom compartment. What happens then is that the lint catches fire and burns for a small time, melting the thermal fuse and shutting the gas valve down. My question is: Is this normal or am I missing a part (like a burner shield or something)? We clean the lint screen every load. One issue I suspect is that the felt seal on the front of the drum is failing (I can see it hanging out in a couple of places). Would that cause this problem? It also seems to take a considerable amount of time for our dryer to get our clothes dry (two-99 minute cycles per load usually does the trick).
What can I do???

Thank you!!!

What a timely question– I just wrote about this very scenario in the January issue of my award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: How to Use Your Dryer to Get Out of Your Mortgage.

That issue was such a home run with the jingle mail crowd that I did an encore presentation in the February issue: A Visual Guide to Dryer Vent Proctology.

BTW, if you’re not a subscriber to our free newsletter, Appliantology, you’re really missing out on Special Samurai Secrets™ like the ones mentioned above and much, much more! Subscribe to Appliantology today!

Okay, with that bit of shameless self-promotion out of the way, let’s move on to how we can fix your dryer problem. As explained in the two aforementioned Appliantology newsletter issues, the problem with your dryer is a bad vent. What makes a bad vent? Excessive back pressure. Also note that a vent can look good and still be bad or marginal. Watch this:

For the average homeowner, it probably makes more sense to buy and install a product like the LintAlert dryer vent monitor. It’s a lot less expensive that the tester I used in the video above and, once you install it, there’s no set up rigamarole to do– it just quietly monitors your dryer vent as you use it and lets you know if there’s a problem as it develops. It monitors the dryer vent system and displays a percentage of blockage. And LintAlert works with both gas and electric dryers, despite what you’ll read at the RepairClinic site where it says, “For gas dryers only.” This is not true. It works the same exact way on both gas and electric dryers. For electric dryers, you’ll need to plug the LintAlert device into a nearby 120vac outlet, the washer outlet will work just fine.


To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

How to fix a GE gas cooktop where one of the burner knobs won’t turn at all

Your Name: Margaret

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: GE Gas Downdraft Cooktop

Model Number: JGP389BEV4BB

Your Precious Words:
I can not turn of the knobs to ignite my gas cooktop burner. So the back right burner is now useless. How can we fix it?

This is a problem with the gas valve for the affected burner. The knob is attached directly to the bad valve. If you can use a screwdriver and a wrench and can fog a mirror, you can do this repair!

GE JGP389BEVBB Downdraft Gas Cooktop Burner Valve ReplacementThis diagram shows you how to do the repair, click it for larger view in a new window.

Here’s the replacement valve you need, comes with a one year warranty:

Be sure to leak check the gas tube connection on the new valve after you get it installed. This video explains the basic idea.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

How to Fix a Frigidaire Front Load Washer that won’t Spin

Your Name: David

Type of Appliance: Washer

Brand: Fridaire

Model Number: ftfb4000gs0

Your Precious Words:
The motor will not do the final (fast) spin to get the majority of the water out. Although it does work in the agitation mode. I believe the error code is 43 ( control board)?

Error code 43 and no final spin both point to one and only one possibility: bad door lock assembly. Slam dunk. Buy it here with a one year return policy.

So David writes back:


Thanks for the quick reply

This may be a dumb question but how does the switch know what the motor speed is?

This reveals an complete misunderstanding of how these machines work and, I might add, a mistrust of my diagnosis. I’ve only seen this exact problem several hundred times and I keep three of these door lock assemblies on my service vehicle because I’m replacing them so often for this exact problem.

Nevertheless, because the Samurai is long-suffering and of great gootness, he shall reveal unto thee how it is that the door latch assembly is the root cause of this problem.

The door lock assembly is just a dumb switch– it has no idea about anything in the world except whether it’s open or closed. The control board, OTOH, is a smart sumbeech and is constantly going around the machine checking the motors and switches to see if things are where they’re supposed to be. One of the things it checks is the spin enable switch in the door latch assembly. If that switch is open, the control board will not allow the drum to go into spin mode. Without getting into a bunch of technical mumbo-jumbo, here’s a short cut method to check it:

But note as a point of comparison and contrast the situation where the drum NEVER moves– water comes in and pumps out but no tumble, no spin, no nuttin’. This is altogether a different problem from what we’ve discussed thus far– where the motor tumbles but won’t go into high speed spin.

In the case where the drum doesn’t move at all, ever, you need to break out your meter and the tech sheet from inside the washer and sing along with the Samurai in this video.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.