36 Comments:
Just had the same thing happen to me and called an 800 number off of the whirlpool website and ordered a drain pump for $109. Flipped it on its side and 3 screws and 1 electic plug later I was back in business.
Dayyam, 109 bucks seems a little steep for a 30-dollar plactic pump!
So how the *&(^& can I get the panties out of the pump suction hose (damn that sounds erotic). I have been getting not only LD but also FL (over fill) and OB (out of balance).
Wow. Same thing. I love this washer. I got through so much less Detergent that its worth the hassles sometimes. I get clothes stuck in the sides all the time. What is up with that? Bad seals? Other then that I think it does great. I do get OB, FL and LD errors all the time. I think mine is related to my 3 dogs and 2 cats clogging stuff up.
Is there any way to run a cleaner through their similar to drano to clean out the lines and pump? Or just have to remove the pump or replace and manually clean the lines?
LD ERRORS driving me nuts and my wife having a nervous breakdown
Problem Solved (and no parts needed):
Ok, I'm not sure I have room to put all the instructions but I can give some hints. I can also be reached at bill (at) prehl (dot) us on specifics on dissasembly.
Essentially I found the following items in the drain system: 3 pennies in the drain hose that connects to the house sewer system. They were lodged at the beginning of the hose just after the pseudo check-valve built into the hose.
I also found an underwire for a bra laying in the sump area. My wife saw it before I did as I lifted the inner wash basin out of the unit revealing the plastic tub's contents.
I cleaned EVERYTHING. I had to use soft and metal scrubbers (kitchen cleaning style) and I had to use plastic wall-patch scrapers. Our unit has been in operation since 6/27/2001. IT WAS DISGUSTING!!!!
I also found out in the process that there is a seal ring with clear grease. The center of the tub (it's filled with all kinds of gyroscopic gadgets) is a little tricky to take apart. I found it was corroded inside what was suppose to be a sealed area from water.
Also, I tilted the unit on it's front and proceeded to take all the drain hoses off to clean them out. That's when I found the pennies jingling in the drain hose.
All I can say is the unit is now working properly and I greased up the gyroscopic components and I carefully cleaned the seals. There are 6 machine screws that push down on the main seals and I made sure to treat it like putting on a wheel of a car - screw each head down a few turns and then move to the one across from it rotating around the six screws until I was completely tight on all six. This is easily done with a 3/8 hex rachet with at least a 12in extension.
My wife and I decided we'll have to clean the unit AT LEAST once a year if not more based on what we saw. If we clean it more often then it won't take as long and as much muscle to scrub and scrap all that crud. It even sounds better with the added lubrications.
We also discovered that the machine tilted forward so that we had standing water in the bottom of the outer basin. By raising the front legs (the back legs are auto-leveling) by about 1/2 to 3/4in we noticed that the water was properly draining into the sump area in the back of the outer basin. I was able to run the machine in diagnostic mode using the instructions found in a plastic jacket glued to the inside of the front panel. This is accessible when you pop the top with a putty knife. With the inner basin removed I was able to put a 1/2 bucket of water in the outer basin, push the diagnostic sequence to initiate a 40 second drain cycle. I could hold the entire top open with the user cover closed so the interlock was closed. This allowed us to watch it drain the water properly. I said to my wife I should probably become an appliance repair/cleaner. Unfortunately I'm not sure people would see the value since most if not all of the problems are masked inside the white, shiney walls of the unit.
I did find a broken metal ring and the seals are starting to wear. I told my wife if this works that I'm ordering the $17 repair manual that explains everything and how everything works. I did find someone had posted parts of the manual online that explained how the drain/recirculate pump works.
If you're not the handy type I can say this is going to be a machine that will cost you a lot of money. It's evident that the machine cannot keep itself clean.
Tools reqired were a socket wrench, channel locks, flat screw driver, lineman's plyers, plastic scrapers, lots of towels for water, buckets (2), and a nut driver.
Good luck.
Ld code-
After running the diagnostic check, I discover the drain pump was not working, I could hear it humming but it was not pumping any water out. I removed the pump, which was very easy (2 clips and 2 hose clamps) and discover it had a large amout of lent in it and would not turn freely. After I mopped the floor, I spent from 1AM to 2AM poking at it with a small screw driver and a paper clip to remove as much lent as I could. My plan was to clean it out as best as I could for now and buy a new pump, I thougt how much could this piece of plastic cost? 20 bucks? The cheap plastic pump is now replace with a pump and motor combination, that is why the price is $107.00. My new plan is to let it go and next time clean it out again. Its too bad this expensive washer is made with such cheap parts.
Micah in Michigan
LD Error. I flipped it on the side took the botom pan off. I took the bottom assembly off the pump where ther two hoses go and popped the two clips off and the assembley with the whell inside came right off. It was clogged with lent from bathroom rugs. I told her time and time again not to wash bathroom rugs in the washer but she wouldn't listen --- women----. I took a screw driver and cleaned the lent then took a water hose and washed it out. Put it all back togeher and it works like a champ.
I'm having a FL code coming up, I replaced the Pump (cost 116.00 with tax)the problem still came back.............HELP!!!!!!!!
HC
Got all the help you can stand in The Samurai School of Appliantology. Come git you some!
I had the same problem. Thankfully, your website saved me at least $100 to keep the repairman from coming to the house.
To fix it, I pulled off the bottom pan, popped the two clips and cleaned the lint from inside of the base of the pump. Now it works like a champ.
I would advise that you do not wash a bathroom rug in the machine. That is what caused my problem.
Thanks Samurai for posting the site!
First, what is the diagnostic code?
Second, I just had the LD code come up and the tech guy said that Whirlpool issued a service bulletin that said there was a change in the pump. New one runs at 3200 rpm, old at 1600 rpm. Apparently the old pump couldn't handle all the lint that built up. Best part of this is that it cost me nothing! Whirlpool is picking this up even though it's out of warranty. HAd to call customer service to get this.
Lastly, there's a class action lawsuit...google it!
Okay I am standinghere in 2 inches of water and the machine still does not work. I got the infamous LD error. After attempting to repair it myslef I gave up and called the repair guy. After a few reschedules and a bit of swearing the guy showed up this morning. He banged and tinkered and told me I needed a new pump. I told him I had already cjecked the pump and it looked fine. So he tinkers some more and back washes it with nitrogen. Pulls the pump hoses off and floods my floor. Finds $.11 in the input to a "filter box" checks all the hoses etc. puts it back and still no drainage or recirculation. Now the nitrogen is going through all the tubes and pump, the water flooded my floor so it's getting out of the tub. I am not sure he really believes taht the filter is clogged. I hear the pump motor running. He is going to call back with an estimate but after taking my $40 for the house call thinks it will be about another 200. HELP Any additional insight or wisdom is welcome.
I had the "Ld" ("long drain") problem on my Whirlpool Calypso (which is second-hand, free from my in-laws who didn't like it). The error had initially been intermittent, then gradually became more frequent until I couldn't complete a wash cycle. There were no obvious kinks or clogs in the drain hose, so I proceeded to take off the top and bottom panels to try to clean out the washer as others have described above. There wasn't much dirt inside. There were two bra wires, but as we shall see they were not causing trouble yet. Aside from a small amount of hair clinging to the bra wires, the pump and its hoses and drain area were quite clean.
I couldn't get the inner tub out to clean underneath it, and I happened upon my neighbor the plumber and asked him for advice. Despite my protestations, he pulled off the drain hose again (the one running from the base of the outer tub out of the washer to the wall) and said, "Aha! here's your problem."
At the washer end, this drain hose has a little valve or baffle, as if to prevent backfilling into the washer. With no pressure, the lips of this valve should be slightly separated. Mine were pressed closed. While the valve seemed to work correctly in my sink, I guess pumping past it under pressure may have been a different matter. For $13 at the corner hardware store I got an outlet hose with no valve; now draining the washer is fast (less than a minute).
Nowhere in any manual or elsewhere online have I seen it suggested to look at the outlet hose valve; my neighbor only knew because he had made the same mistake (including unneccessary 2-day disassembly) with his own washer in the recent past. If it doesn't work long term I'll post a correction; otherwise, hopefully, goodbye forever.
Wow! I just got a new Calypso from Best Buy two weeks ago. Worked great then problems. My wife said she put in the carpets from the bathroom. We starting get LD on the screen. She noticed lint. Well next we go through several hours of water not draining, etc..., Ob errors. Just like the earlier posts. I will call Whirlpool in the morning. What I don't get is Consumer Reports rates this washer pretty high?
Consumer Reports is a fraud-- they're either stupid or completely corrupt, either way, they are not a trustworthy source of information on anything.
Call Best Buy and return the washer for a refund. You should have 30 days satisfaction guarantee.
Thanks for all the help Im up and running again. But this machine is piece of crap. My fiance had to have her newer machine (what a mistake). This is the 2 time its broken since she moved in 6 months ago 1st time cost her $200 or so.My maytag was 10 years old never had a problem still looked new guy acoss street has it now none of that electronic crap. Next time it breaks Im thowin it out. She also confirmed it was a Consumer Report top pick. Guess Kenmore Paided them off for this.
Yep, further confirmation that Consumer Reports is just a scam-- a wolf in sheep's clothing with one, sole mission: to make money at YOUR expense.
I was hoping someone would know the button seq, for the diagnostics on the calypso (110.21086000). Some dunb a$# removed the paper from inside unit.(me)
Thanks Brian
My parents machine (bought in 2002) just gave out with constant 'ld' errors. Went throughout the web looking at all the info on the Calypso fiasco. I did clean out as many hoses and pipes as I could, but still having issues. Considering replacing the pump motor with the new one being sold for ~$100.
I'm a computer nerd with minimal repair experience, is this a complex replacement? We are still under a 5 year warranty, and I will try calling Whirlpool on Monday to see what they will do, but I don't want to pay for labor if I can do it myself.
Well I got the LD error today after having the unit for 3.5 years and the machine would not drain at all. Wife tried running the load several times, so I have a lot of water in the tub.
I have removed the balance ring, inner tub and gotton out a lot of water but still have what looks like a lot in the bottom. I'm going to try a syphon pump to see if I can get more out before I try moving the washer to the back desk to turn it up.
I will post my results and cause of problem.
Note: to test the unit without adding more water just turn the water supply off.
I just had the ld-ob problem. And, just like was said in the above, it turned out to be a bra wire stuck in the spindle / drain system. Wow!
TO ALL:
PLEASE DO NOT BUY A CALYPSO:
I REPEAT PLEASE DO NOT BUY A CALYPSO!!!
Read these postings: This machine is a bigger headache than its worth! I came home from work exhausted only to find a pool of water in my floor. The ID-OB problem. Pipe clogged again. I am not from the old school but sometimes I think just a plain jane washing machine without all these updated bells and whistles is the best. Before wasting your money check out your options. I am going for about a 200-250 machine. I mean then you can just replace it in about 4 years anyway. This fancy junk does not work anybetter and is a PAIN!!!!!!
As an honest consumers opinion: Please do not buy a calypso. Also another note: My husband and I have had better luck at Lowes with customer service Vs. Sears. If Sears doesnt honor it Lowes will.
So we are done with Calypso's and done with Sears!
Good nite and Good luck!!!!!!
Sincerely,
M
Kenmore defames the name Calypso!
Oh Enlightened One here is my tale ;-)
Ours is a late model Calypso just purchase last year. You'd think they would have fixed the water the pump by now.
Now for my tale of woe.
It started one day when the basket wasn't draining. I tried express wash and rinse and spin to clear the cycle.
I encountered a number of different error codes including OB, FL and LD. At first I was able to get the basket to drain but when it went into the rinse cycle it wouldn't empty.
After Googling this wonderful machine, I discovered your most informative site.
Initially I thought it was the drain hose. The former owner of the house had sealed off the wall drain with a PVC couple and plastic 1" plastic barb so there wasn't an air gap. I sawed off this fix.
And I again started a short cycle. Still no luck. After disconnecting the inlet hoses I notices white plastic looking flecks in the screen of the hot water line. I thought this maybe was interfering with the fill cycle causing it to error out with a basket of water. I cleaned out the screens and still no luck.
After reading your site I turned the machine over and checked the hoses on the pump and they were clear. I checked the drain hose for the backflow value and it was OK.
Now the washer was not draining at the start of the rinse and spin cycle or at the finish. So I had to bail out the tub several times.
After several deluges and mopping the floor of the laundry area, I had a stroke of brillance and removed the cover of the pump impeller.
DAH! Wound around the shaft was several strings from a pink bathroom rug that caught more lint passing through the pump. I'm guessing initially the pump would turn in one direction however after messing with it, it jammed in both directions
I removed the strings and the washer worked like a champ. But after a few loads I had another flood. This time it was operator error. I had removed the drain hose from the back inspection panel. Ater mopping up again and turning the washer over again, I discovered I had not gotten the drain hose entirely onto the outlet pipe and the clamp slipped off!
Anyway washer is working fine now.
All during this time when I was removing the inlet hoses, I was discovering those suspicious white flecks in the inlet screen.
My initial thought was our softwater resin was breaking down. Called the Culligan svs tech. He checked the unit and said it was working fine. He looked at the flecks and had never seen before. He said it wasn't resin particles. We put several flecks into vinegar with no reaction. The flecks float in water.
The svs tech was suspicious of the hot water heater. He noted the brine tank was leaking before but had been replaced. There was some salt rust on the bottom of the tank.
The wife has been complaining of of very cold spurts while taking a shower. Also the dishwasher was taking a longtime to complete a cycle. In my absence a friend had open the bottom drain but the water ran clear several months ago.
The plot thickens. So I put a hose fitting on the outlet pipe of the water heater, hooked up the hose, and rant it out to the driveway. I turned the cold water valve on. I checked the water stream and noted the white flecks in the water stream.
I then unhooked the hose and discovered two large pieces of what looked like fragments of PVC pipe. I got the model number off the tank and called the 800 number on the side of the tank.
I learned my water heater was manufactured in 1994. Seems as though that for several years back then the supplier of the "dip tubes" had a bad formula. The pipe would break down over time. The fragments float at the top and won't normally drain thru the bottom drain.
There was a class action suit on these tanks but the time for submitting claims has long since past. The recommended fix is to unscrew the inlet pipe and fish out the dip tube. Also it is recommended to replace the anode rod.
I tried to remove the inlet nipple but it was welded tight. Since the water heater was past it prime anyway, the time involved in the repair, I decided a new water heater was warranted. Off to Lowe's and bought a new 50 gal gas one.
I removed the water heater and discovered yes indeed the brine tank had a leak. There was a salt bridge between the floor and the bottom of the tank. Also I found a layer of salt crystals on the floor of the equipment closet that includes the heater/air conditioner. Spent more time removing my stalagtites.
I then took the old tank out to the driveway for further inspection. Even with my largest pipe wrench I couldn't break the nipples free. So I got my reciprocating saw and cut a window into the tank. AHHH! There was nothing left of the dip tube.
So there you have it what the repair of the Calypso led to.
Photos of the repair and my own, Dr. Stranglove photo.
LD Code(aka The Pump) VS. Bra Wire
LD code came across about 10 in the pm. This is the second time in less than year that I have had a problem with the old Calypso psycho washing machine. After doing some research, I came across this blog and read through all the comments. With this new knowledge in hand I tackled my psycho washer and found the old "bra under wire" problem stopping the pump. The plastic teeth on the pump looked a little stripped, but as of right now everything is fine. The new wife blames it on the old wife, but the morale of the story is “Garment bag” for the unmentionables. Thanks to all for sharing their knowledge.
Unbelievable. Google "Whirlpool Calypso Error Code LD" and Voila!
A hundred times, "honey, you're gonna tear up this fancy, expensive machine washing those throw rugs".
I thought she'd broke it but good, and was sweating the dreaded service call, but now have some hope.
Will tear it apart tonight and hopefully find flotsam and jetsam in/around the pump housing, hoses, and impeller.
Thanks to all who took the time to post (photos were most excellent!).
Best regards, Brian
Gotta Love the internet. Had the error this morning, did a quick google and found this site.
Sure enough, underwire blocking the checkball at the bottom of the tub.
This one was pretty easy, but did see another one that I could not get to. How hard is it to get the bottom apart so I can go above the check valve further?
Thanks! Will definitely bookmark this site!
Thanks everyone!
There must be something magic about the 11 cents. Popped of the drainage hose and found a penny, a dime, and with one of those ladies' hair rubber band things.
Wife no longer freaking out. Well, except for the water all over the floor.
Talk to you all when it breaks again...
I am looking for the button sequence to force the washer to drain the water. I found it for the whirlpool version of the calypso, but I have the Sears Elite Calypso model, so the buttons are different.
I was hoping someone would know the button seq, for the diagnostics on the calypso (110.21086000).
for the button sequence; check the plastic bag on the back of the front panel.. all is in there.
thanks for all the tips.. found a CAN 10cent in the drain, also found a huge piece of lint blocking the pump.
also washed all the mildew accumulated on the drum and tank.. yuck, this was disgusting... no wonder the washing machine was smelling that bad!!!!
Phil
Wow guys thanks for the comments. I also found the Whirlpool PDF on the machine... No 17 bucks out of this pocket!
I removed the pump direction cap and found the little whirly-gig at the top of the pump filled with polyester fiber.. like the kind from a pillow. Along with this, I found the washer filled with what looked like dirt, which must have accumulated with the drain issue. Anyway, I am rinsing it out and draining it as I write this!! My wife is very happy!! You know this is the second Calypso washer from Sears. We bought the first one in 2001 and it failed electrically 4 times in one year. Then the 5th time it was 3 months out of warranty. I brought it up to Sears and they eventually gave us this one. Although I had to buy the extended warranty, which is out now. I was going to blow a gasket!! The last washer we had was a Kenmore, which lasted over 20 years with no maintanence other the wiping it clean every once in a while.
Thanks to you guys here at Fixitnow.com for the confidence to attempt this project, which turned out to be easy and thanks to Bobvila.com and and the great pics at gardenweb.com. AND very importantly to someone named Jake at applianceblog.com for the link to the PDF which for the benefit of anyone else I have posted here.
Jason
Anyone have a old calypso I could get a control board out of. Mine caught on fire. The board number is 664616.
THanks
jnsarago@juno.com
Let me preface this blog with a couple of observations. I am a CPA not a mechanic or tradesman. Second, I just spent $500 on this machine to have a complete overhaul. Two different Sears technicians said they would never have paid the money to fix it and would never own this machine. Like someone else said, I went by Consumer's Reports. The parts that were replaced were the U-joint kit, the washplate, a hose, a dispenser, the wash tub (free for life) and a seal on the lid. Grand total $502.96. Some of the problems were a rancid smell and a pooling of water underneath. I like matching appliances which is why I paid the money. A new one and a new matching dryer would have cost me three times as much.
Some of the recommendations the techs made were to dilute the fabric softener, use as little detergent as possible (HE only) and use the second rinse. The manual also recommends running the machine on normal cycle with a cup (250 mls) of bleach and a full cup of detergent on hot.
The skank that was in the machine was enough to gag a maggot. It was quite embarassing. Hopefully, the occasional cleaning above will resolve this going forward. By the way, my machine is 5 years old and has been running every day of the week since I've had it (3 young boys).
Now, 6 weeks after I spend this money and have this overhaul, I get the "ob" code and the "ld" code. I was hoping it would be as simple as the manual says and that I could just clear it and start over. Wishful thinking.
I Googled the "ld" code and found the comments listed above mine. I went for the one Micah posted on 7/14/05 (ain't the internet great?). His idea worked, but here's a little more detail than he provided.
1. Tools - Regular pliers, needlenose pliers, long skinny flathead screwdriver, flashlight, rachet set (sorry, don't know the sizes, two needed) and one of those long lint brushes.
2. Unplug the machine.
3. Get ALL your towels ready.
4. Lay the machine on its side being careful not to overextend the hot and cold hoses connected to the wall. Mine were long enough to leave connected.
5. Sop up the water. It's a lot!!!6. Take the three screws off the bottom plate with the rachet and remove the bottom plate being sure to notice which way it was on.
7. There should be a circular plastic piece directly in the middle of the bottom of the machine with two hoses clamped to it. My circular piece was grey with two metal clamps and three screws (rachet needed, larger size) holding it in place. One of the hoses was yellowish and the other black.
8. Use the regular pliers to squeeze the hose clamps. Slide the clamps up the hose and wiggle it off. Repeat for second hose.
9. Release the metal clamps on the grey thingy and remove the screws.
10. The grey thing was actually grey on the bottom and black on the top. If you look into the two holes where the hoses were connected you can see the wheel that Micah was talking about. If you're lucky, you'll see what's causing your "ld" code too. Just like Micah, we were washing bath rugs. Don't do it anymore!
11. Use the screwdriver to spin the wheel and use the needlenose pliers to extract the rug lint or whatever is causing your blockage.
12. I removed the drain hose on the clear plastic container the two hoses from the grey thingy were going into. This was an accident because I didn't understand what Micah was talking about at first. Since it was removed, I took the long (2 feet) lint brush and ran it up the hose. If you're weak in the stomach just don't look at what comes out.
13. Replace the grey thingy, the screws, the two clamps, the two hoses, the drain hose and the bottom panel!!!
Like I said, CPA not tradesman. But, there is a great sense of accomplishment knowing I fixed it on my own. Special thanks to this website and to Micah wherever he may be!!
I'm a single mom with two teenage boys who change clothes at least three times a day! So when my washer gave me the infamous OB and LD codes, I freaked! I came across this site and read through all the comments. I took off the bottom panel and looked for gunk like everyone else had found....but NONE was there. All I found was a bra underwire but clean and no blockage. I reluctantly put it all back together and gave it a shot. you know, what the hell. and to my amazement, Voila!! It now works. I guess the wire must have been blocking the check ball. Regardless, I am one happy camper! Thanks so much for this site!
Sincerely,
Handy Mom
Thank you all sooo much. I have had my Calypso Washer for 4 years. The LD msg came on last night and the water quit draining. I called the repair person before checking this site. He came out, said our pump went bad and he can come back the next day to replace it for aprx $350. I started reading this and put my husband to work. I would have done it, but man that stuff smells like death mixed with a skunk! After about 20 minutes he had my bra wire and a clump of muck out of the pump and sprayed out the drain hose. We hooked it back up and what do you know, back in business and we did not have to buy a new pump! I just ran the cup of bleach and cup of detergent as mentioned in a previous post in hopes that it will smell better. This saved us from scrapping this washer. Granted it is not worth the money I paid for it but I don't want to dish out money for a new one either. Thanks for the advise!
Thanks so much for this! Just spent a couple hours myself tearing it apart, cleaning the housing out, putting it back together. After a rinse cycle to check the pump everything is working great!
After swilling copious quantities of the sacred fermented grain beverage, I looked up the "LD" code in the Whirlpool Calypso service manual. "LD" stands for "long drain," meaning it took an excessively long time for water to drain out of the washer. Common causes for this are kinked drain hose or clothing, like panties or socks, caught in the pump suction hose. Why, I've even heard of bra wires coming loose and getting stuck in that hose, collecting all sorts of gookus and pinching off the flow of water to the pump. Can you imagine? Yea verily, as surely as the Sacred Suds doth eternally pass my lips, the "LD" error code springs forth from such anomalies. Can I hear an Amen?
Welcome,
