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Sunday, May 30, 2004

Appliance Tip of the Day: Replacing the Drive Coupler on a Whirlpool (or Kenmore) Direct Drive Washer

appliance tip of the day archiveOne sure sign that the drive coupler is bad is if the washer will fill with water and pump out ok, but it just won't agitate or spin. Replacing the motor coupler is the most common repair task on this washer and is a pretty easy job, even for appliance repair virgins. How easy? About two mugs on the SUDS-0-meter. How can you tell if your washer is the direct-drive or belt-drive model? Like this.

We begin this repair odyssey by removing the washer's cabinet. The secret to removing the cabinet is revealed in this post. Read it now, go ahead, I'll wait...

Finished already? See, you're a whiz at this!

motor coupler for a whirlpool or kenmore direct drive washer--click for larger viewOk, so with the machine stripped naked like a fatted calf in a butcher shop, we focus our keen Vulcan squinties on the pump, down in front, and remove the two clips holding it on to the motor. Then pull off the pump, unclip the wiring harness from the motor and the two wires from the capacitor (if present). Then remove the two motor clips (top and bottom) to remove the motor. Wallah! The motor, by the way, is double-shafted (for those of you in Palm Beach, "double-shafted" means it has two shafts). The coupler is the three-part piece you see between the motor and the transmission (the other side of the motor). Your old coupler probably looks something like this, or even worse. Here's what a new coupler looks like.

Incidentally, for an excellent and detailed interactive diagram of the guts of this washer, see this page. You'll be glad you did.

When you're all done and you have the guts all tucked back in place, replacing the cabinet is just as easy...if you know the trick. And remember to reconnect the lid switch harness or you'll be scratching your head wondering why the washer won't spin.

Ok, that's about all the rocket science involved with this little gig. All that's left for you to do is order the coupler, maybe even a genuine repair manual for more adventurous repairs in the future. And, of course, your love offerings to the United Samurai Beer Fund would be received most joyously.

To learn more about your washer or to order parts, click here.

a couple of grasshoppers driving the master to the laundromat

Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 22:33 ET.  [permalink]
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Ok, I replaced the coupler on my Kenmore. When I started the machine back up, it agitated for a few seconds, then the gears locked up, and it broke my coupler again. What do I do now?

By Blogger jessica3681, at January 16, 2005 8:39 PM  

That's a bad transmission. Get a new washer... assumming, of course, that you installed the coupler correctly.

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at March 28, 2005 12:16 PM  

I started to replace the coupler and when I put on the third piece (the last plastic piece)on the bolt, it broke.
I got another part and yet again, that piece cracked. I can still use the washer with it cracked, but I don't understand why it seems the bolt that the coupler is supposed to fit onto is a bit too big for the holes in the coupler. It's a Kenmore washer and I got the part from I'm not really understanding the problem. Do you?

By Anonymous Anonymous, at April 04, 2005 3:25 PM  

This site has been very useful. What's missing though is getting the darn coupler in place and the motor back on. It's not quite "Assemly is the reverse order of removal" The coupler pieces have to be hammered onto the shafts. Getting the motor with coupler attached into the holes of the rubber is very tricky because of its weight, aligning the coupler holes and motor mount "bushings?" and there is an annoying piece of cardboard in the way. After all the black rubber motor mount bushings fell off I had no way to know which way they went on. They fit both ways and don't stay in place on their own. More tips on getting this thing back together would be useful. I couldn't find them elsewhere in the site.

By Anonymous Alex L, at June 22, 2005 9:39 PM  

I don't know what
Alex was doing in his replacement of the drive coupler but mine went very smooth. I had the washer filling with water for a test run 5 minutes after I walked in the door with the part. The replacement was the exact opposite of the removal. What a great site for the do it yourselfer. Thanks!!

By Anonymous Anonymous, at July 25, 2005 11:29 AM  

OK, replaced my coupler, let the washing machine run for a couple months and then started getting that burning smell that accompanied the failure of the first bushing. What is the primary cause of bushing failure?

By Anonymous Anonymous, at July 25, 2005 10:30 PM  


The problem I am having with my washer is that it is making a loud banging noise while trying to spin on the spin cycle. The agitator starts to spin then stops after the loud noise, this process repeats through the cycle. I removed the coupler to find it is in good condition. I then tried to spin the agitator by turning the part the three pronged part the coupler was once connected to. The agitator turned fine when I did this. Do you have any idea what the proplem could be?

Thank you,

By Blogger marcandkellynj, at July 28, 2005 10:59 AM  

Some detailed discussion of noise problems in this washer and their cures in this thread from the Samurai School of Appliantology.

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at July 29, 2005 6:47 PM  

I have an idea that if you require more information about what's wrong in the forum, you awwta post it in the Laundry Room, not here.

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at July 29, 2005 7:08 PM  

I just used your directions to fix my Kitchen Aid washer and wanted to say thanks. You rock!


J Lou

By Anonymous Anonymous, at December 04, 2005 6:59 PM  

Thank you, Samarai Appliance Repairman. I used your directions to get to the faulty coupler in my Kenmore Washing Machine.
Had I not read further, I wouldn't have realized that putting this back together may not be so easy (getting the pieces on the shafts, and aligning the rubber thingie).
Also, that I may have a bigger worry, if the transmission is kaput (Which will likely cause another coupler failure). The cog attached to the transmission is still in one piece, would I normally be able to turn this by hand? I am hoping to check whether or not the transmission is still serviceable before investing too much time, trouble, and money in parts I won’t need.
Also, the day before attempting the teardown, I was able to find the proper part of the wash cycle to make the pump drain some water out of the tub. This morning, the motor wouldn’t work. Could the motor have just been in a position that it wouldn’t start? Or does it sound like the motor is now shot?

Thank you greatly!


Amateur Repair Guy

By Blogger Amateur Repair Guy, at December 26, 2005 2:45 PM  

This website is awesome. Those responsible should be damn proud. Made me look like I knew what I was doing, when in fact I didnt have a clue. I do however agree with Alex who wrote about aligning up the holes in the rubber thing with the plastic thing. It wasnt what I would call easy and the feller that said he had it all put back together in 5 minutes might be exagerating a tad. Took me that long to get it out of the package. Patience is the key.
Thanks again

By Anonymous Anonymous, at December 27, 2005 10:27 PM  

Googled my problem for a kitchenaid washer. Was optimistict weather or not this could be it. Well. It was dead on! Pictures, how to's, everything. This site saved my a call to the repair man and about 80 bucks. Thank you very much.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at January 01, 2006 8:59 AM  

Hold on, you don't have to strip the machine bare to change the coupling. I did that the first time but wanted to get into the gearbox to make sure it was ok before replacing the coupling. I did not have the coupling at the time (on a holiday) so I put the entire unit back together with the exception of the pump and motor assembly. To install the coupling with the unit in place, simply lay the machine on it's back, the back being where the hoses hook in. I laid a 2 x 4 down on the floor to protect the plastic hose threads. With the machine on the back, the motor is on the top of the gearbox and you don't have to fight the weight of the motor at the same time you are trying to line up the coupling. It also gives you more room to work since the tub shifts to the opposite side of the motor when laying on it's side. This really works. I literally can change the coupling in 15 minutes, tops. The first time I took the entire machine apart was a different story. Good luck.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at January 02, 2006 12:28 PM  

Great web site! Very informative. I replaced the coupler on my Kenmore washer. The most difficult part was trying to remove the pump. It simply would not pull off. I removed both hoses from the pump and didn't want to use tools to pry off the pump for fear of damaging it, so I pulled the motor and pump assembly off as one. It came off easily. Laying the machine on its back made the coupler installation much easier. Putting the machine back together was easy enough. Road test went well, it spins great but now leaks once the tub has a couple of inches of water in it. Frustrated by this I turned the machine off and vowed to get back in there tomorrow. Should I suspect removing the hoses as a possible culprit?

By Anonymous Frustrated in Maine, at February 19, 2006 5:55 PM  

You guys are making life difficult for yourselves! {boot to the head} You think you've found a shortcut by laying the machine on it's back when actually you're risking further damage to the machine by doing that. It couldn't be easier to remove the cabinet-- why does everyone think this is a big deal? Ok, say it with me, "BIP! BAP! BOOM!" and the cover's removed.

Yo, Mainer, the reason you can't get the pump off is because it's been leaking and now is rusted on the motor shaft. If you had removed the cabinet like a good grasshopper, getting the pump off would be easier than pulling a plump boogar. But NO! You had to do a grasshopper shortcut, which is to say, a hack job. Hey, I ain't gonna bullsheist you, my Maine man; hell, you're my flavorite turd!

Ok, your action items from this sermon:

- Remove the washer cabinet
- Pry off the old pump
- Install new pump, PART LINK.

Tear 'em up, Hoss!

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at February 19, 2006 7:24 PM  

As a single mom with limited income I can only express deep gratitude for all of the information you have on your site. I was able to fix my washer in just a few short minutes and save at least $100.00. I would marry you if you lived closer or at sleep with you....;) just kidding. I will be donating to the beer fund. Thanks again!

By Anonymous Anonymous, at February 27, 2006 8:41 PM  

Just wanted to thank you for your detailed directions on motor coupling replacement on washer. Stayed at home between 1-5pm for Sears tech. Customer Service called me at 4:40, he couldn't make it. Ticked me off enough to have my boyfriend attempt the repair. Thanks to this site it was a success and only cost $16.00 in parts.
Thank you Sears, it's better in my pocket.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at March 05, 2006 12:00 AM  

Thanks (not easy for a bubblehead to say to an air dale). Your directions were great save a lot of time and money. Had it up and running in 15-20 minutes start to finish. Have a great one.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at March 18, 2006 11:04 AM  

Sporty says; Thought I had this problem with the 80 series Kenmore (agitator wouldn't move and spin cycle didn't work) but after removing motor coupler looks fine. None of the three pieces are damaged and none show much, if any, wear. If this sounds like it isn't the couple what could it be?

By Anonymous Anonymous, at March 25, 2006 3:58 PM  

This tip is pretty good for replacing the drive coupler. A couple things:

There was one more small 2 or 3 wire harness on my Whirlpool top-load that needed removed in addition to the capacitor and main motor connector. No big deal here but for completeness sake.

The individual white piece that needs attached to both the transmission shaft and the motor shaft itself is a REALLY tight fit. I needed to gently hammer them into place. In one case, just some gentle taps with some pliers worked well.

Trying to line up the little white nibs into the rubber coupler is a pain in the butt because the motor is heavy. You have to hold the motor a few inches above the ground while trying to accurately place the nibs with very little visibility into what you are doing. I found that placing the motor on the bottom clip, but not attaching it, took most of the weight of the motor which allowed more concentration on lining everything up.

After the cabinet was removed, start to finish time was just under an hour, and I'm a little below average with mechanical stuff. Someone who is better with their hands could probably do this in 30 minutes, even if they had no previous experience.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at March 28, 2006 10:35 PM  

I have a washer that had two problems. The top half of the agitator would not move and it made a loud clicking sound while agitating (bottom only) I replaced the "dog ears" (thanks for the guide on that) and the top agitator work fine. I thought it was fixed, but then the sound returned a few days later. After cursing and testing out the machine, I discovered the clicking only occurred in the "delicate/hand wash" cycle. All others work normally, which is why I thought it was fixed (tested on "heavy duty"). Is it the drive coupler, or a transmission problem?? I have a Sears (whirlpool) direct drive about 6 years old.

Thanks for All your help (even if my washer is dead)

By Anonymous Anonymous, at March 29, 2006 1:08 PM  

Dave, this repair is unrelated to the drive coupler. Detailed help on this at this page.

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at April 03, 2006 8:25 AM  

This site is the best! Thanks, and keep up the great work!

On the advice of a different site, I went ahead and replaced the coupler. The old coupler looked fine to me, but there was a bunch of black dust in the area, and the teeth were a little looser in their holes than in the new replacement unit. However, replacing it did NOTHING to alleviate the problem.

Here's what the washer's doing: in agitate or spin, the washer makes a loud clicking/banging sound, and the agitator follows the sound with a half-hearted movement. In Spin, it goes "click-click-click-click" as the agitator SLOWLY gains speed. The sound reminds me of a solenoid that doesn't have enough power to stay energized. Oh, and every time it clicks, the laundry room light dims (something's sucking a lot of juice). Are there solenoids that control the motor? Could this be a clutch problem?

Thanks in advance!

By Anonymous Clean Laundryless in Seattle, at April 08, 2006 2:12 AM  

This sounds like the classic problem where two of the speed windings on the motor are getting energized at the same time. You can easily verify this with your voltmeter and the wiring diagram for the washer (inside back panel). If you confirm that's what's happening, then you need to replace the timer.

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at April 08, 2006 6:29 AM  

I have a Kenmore washers Model # 110.28902790 that does not spin or agitate. The motor does make noise and it fills and drains but does not aggitate or spin. I checked the coupling and they are intact. could it be the capacitor. How do I check to see if the capacitor is not working. Can the motor run if capacitor does not work? Thanks.

By Anonymous Paris, at April 10, 2006 10:14 PM  

You need to verify that the motor is actually running. If it is, then forget about the capacitor because your problems are much, much larger, maybe as large as the transmission. But maybe as small as the drive block; see this page for more info on that

By Blogger Samurai Appliance Repair Man, at April 10, 2006 10:21 PM  

hey guys thanks for your website
it rocks!!!
my washer was making clicking noise on dry cycle, it would fill and pump the water out
but it wont spin or agitate
after checking your web site which teached me about the coupler
so i checked it
i can spin the coupler and tranny but the motor would turn and stop and turn
so i use my finger to stop the motor(of course power off, just hand spin) and spin the coupler and still turns

so i took it out
but the coupler wasnt broken just worn out the center on the motor side, instead of oval shape it was completly rounded

thanks you guys for the web site
i would recommend to all my friends

By Anonymous highlander canada, at April 11, 2006 2:43 AM  

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your extremely helpful site and useful information!!!

My washer stopped agitating with no warning. I learned what might be wrong with it from your site (bad coupler... it's not supposed to be sitting on the floor, right?).

Given the encouraging "you too can do this" step-by-step instructions and the visual aides, I gave it a shot. After all, the worst that could happen is I'd have to call a repair person, right?

What do you know... in under an hour it's back running just like before. And that's my first time tearing down a washer!

Thank you sooo much for your help!!! Couldn't have done it so easily without you!

By Blogger Gharlick, at July 23, 2006 1:35 AM  

Samurai Repair Man:
I have a Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer purchased in 1996. I replaced the Drive Coupler per your instructions in Feb, 2005.
I find I must replace it again. Seems rather quick. Any thoughts?? Also, when I checked for the problem this time the pump wouldn't come off the motor shaft. Looks like rust. Do I need to replace the pump as well. If so, how do I remove it??

By Blogger Jean, at October 23, 2006 10:03 PM  

I just replaced my failed coupler in a Kitchenaid washer - took me an hour. (Alex is obviously one of those types who walwys gets the 300# tuna, 400# buck, etc. LOL!!) Anyway, I thought I'd let it be know that the new replacements have a metal insert in the shaft holes requiring them to be tapped on to the motor and transmission shafts. (A socket and hammer worked for me.) They may last longer but might be tough to get off in the future, if necessary.

Thanks very much for this useful information.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at December 08, 2006 10:42 AM  

I just replaced the motor coupling on my Whirlpool. It took me about 30 mins to do. The hardest part was getting them to "slide" on. I used a little silicon spray and a hammer. Still took some elbow grease. Just want to mention that I am a 35 yr old woman and mother of two girls. Would've waited for that handy boyfriend to fix it but we needed some clean jeans!!!!!

Thanks for the step by step instructions!

By Anonymous Anonymous, at January 09, 2007 9:26 PM  

Quick Question before I tear into the machine... It doesn't spin or agitate. Should I be able to turn the tub by hand when it's shut off? I don't remember. Right now I can't get it to budge in either direction. Is it still the drive coupler?


By Blogger Steve, at March 04, 2007 7:35 PM  

Never mind my last post. I was wrong, the tub WILL turn by hand. I tore into the machine and found the drive coupler destroyed. I replaced it and it's working again.

Thanks for the great, detailed instructions. It made it very easy. I spent more time cleaning up the machine than repairing it.

This is a great site.


By Blogger Steve, at March 05, 2007 11:25 PM  

Thank you very much for this great web site.

Your advice, illustrations and links were excellent. My hubby was able to replace the 3 piece coupler assembly on our 12 year old Kenmore Washer.

It's back not humming along smooth.

Thanks Again,


By Blogger Sue, at March 18, 2007 12:46 PM  


Sorry for the typo. My last comment should have said:

It's back NOW humming long smoothly.


By Blogger Sue, at March 18, 2007 12:50 PM  

Followed your instructions to take our Kenmore 90 washer apart down to the coupler and sure enough, it was cracked. Got a replacement part yesterday (with metal center) and found that they were tight and didn't want to go on easily. DH put the rubber middle part over the plastic coupler piece and tapped it into place with a hammer. To get the motor on, we lined up the pegs of the plastic coupler piece with the holes on the rubber piece and slid the motor on. Earlier when we had taken the two wires off the motor, we labeled them left and right with a sharpie marker so that we'd remember how they went so everything was easy peasy getting it back together until we got to the metal shell, had a little trouble figuring out how to get it back on the base, but we finally figured it out, probably took 30-45 minutes start to finish, but now I have a washing machine again and I'm pretty pleased. Thanks, we couldn't have done it without you!

By Blogger Trudi, at April 24, 2007 10:01 AM  

please help me I am traing to repare my washer
I have kenmore washer 80 ser# 110.22882.101
First problem was when in normal washing program called Ultra clean
it stoped the program and it was full with watter. It did not drain.
I oppend the timer block and clean all the contacts because they were black and I thought they do not do good contact. I put it back and the washer start to drain and executes the program normal but at the end it would drain spin and spray watter at the same time and the cloths are too wet to be put directly in dryer. I also did change the lid switch for $24 from sears parts because the old one did not look good and the screws were missing and the old switch was hanging inside. anyway the ne lid switch is warking fine. In spin mode if i open the washer stops. While I was changeing the lid switch i did chech other parts like the drain pomp and hoses and they look ok and they wark. Also I checked the presure switch and when I apply air presure it looks it is ok. the air pressure house seams to look fine I guess hav no pinholes because the washer fills with watter at set level and stops. The motor looks fine cables in place nothing burned. The washer agitates and spin speed looks fine. So all I am thinking now is the timer block is the problem and I may need new one and also I did not check the in valvs for hot and cold watter. I dont know how to check them. Can just open somehow them? Any ideas? What could be my problem again at the very end the cloths are still wet and not dry well so they are not ready for the dryer buy the watter is drained. Thank you.

By Blogger netilian, at June 11, 2007 11:59 AM  

I'm not real good at repairing things, but after reading your instructions, decided to give it a shot. The hardest part was getting the Motor supports back on. Finally figured out to put the bottom one on first then lift the bottom of the motor up to get the top one on.
Great instuctions!!!!

By Blogger mark, at November 17, 2007 2:51 PM  

Repair worked great! A simple fix without the shortcuts. Just follow the directions.
Thank you Samurai!!!

By Blogger C&J, at November 20, 2007 9:50 PM  

I diagnosed my washer's problem as having a broken coupler thanks to this thread. The diagrams, instructions, and follow-up posts made the repair go smoothly!!

However, after I replaced the coupler and washed a load, the washer now emits a loud squealing sound during the spin cycle. Should I have greased something when replacing the coupler? What might be squealing? I do smell the motor or belt.


By Blogger Dave, at January 25, 2008 2:38 PM  

Great site! I was able to diagnose the problem, order part and review directions and pictures quickly. Had the Kenmore up and running in no time - Thanks.

By Blogger Mike, at February 02, 2008 9:04 PM  

Thank you so much for the great tip. I was able to order the part from Sears and replace it in no time.

By Blogger dang, at February 23, 2008 1:30 PM  

Oh great Samurai...I have a Kenmore 110.28902790 washer that's 10 years old. It agitates and fills OK, but doesn't spin fast enough during final spin cycle and leaves clothes very wet. Would replacing the coupler fix this or does it sound like the transmission is shot?

By Blogger runner97, at February 24, 2008 3:21 PM  

Samurai ! you are the freakin man ! like one of the above post i would marry u ifin i could lol, but the least i can do is donate to the beer fund , thanks for saving me a new washer ! you rock dude !

By Blogger free, at March 01, 2008 11:39 AM  

Husband replaced the motor coupler but now we have a loud squealing noise during the spin and agitation cycles? Any suggestions??
Kenmore 90 series 110. model

By Blogger Cassie, at March 06, 2008 10:14 PM  

Thread's 3 years old and counting....
Still excellent help! Thanks! My neighbour thanks you too - it's her washer, and she doesn't have the money for a new (used) one.

By Blogger Xeyes, at April 19, 2008 4:51 PM  

Great directions/pics my good fellow. Didn't need to disturb the capacitor's electrical connections however since removing the screw allows it to hang out until re-assembly time. Much easier/safer IMHO. Also ran across a great PDF of the process you might like:

Bit leary of using the metal insert-equipped couplings so hunted down original, all-plastic style. What with all the banging to get the plastic couplings on, wasn't sure the old girl would stand up to the forces of pounding on the metal equivalents!

P.S. Just in case it hasn't been mentioned before, if the drum goes a bit dodgy and banging around, check the spring that attaches the plate between motor and drum to the rear bottom lip of the back panel. The cad kid just punched a hole in the sheet metal and ran the spring through it. Needless to say, a few years + the splashing = rusted out hole and/or broken spring whereupon the drum destabilizes! A new spring if needed and 2 minutes with the trusty Makita cordless drill put things to rights (at least the OEM's idea of it) for another decade, eh! :-)

By Blogger jim, at August 22, 2008 6:07 AM  

I, a middle aged mom, and my 15 year old son just finished replacing the broken coupler in our washing machine. The Samurai has made me the Miracle worker of my family and neighborhood! We followed the direction step by step and I am now on my 2nd load of wash! Thank you for saving me MONEY!

By Blogger Mom, at November 08, 2008 9:38 PM  

Coupler job is easy. I actually stretched it out to 4 beers by being purposely slow and maticulus. $18 in parts & 4 bud lights.

NOTE: check your discharge hose before taking it out for a test run. Mine wiggled loose and blew off the back probably from me moving the washer around.

By Blogger sparks, at December 02, 2008 9:48 AM  

I got back from a trip away to find my wife complaining the washer wouldn't spin.
I found your page, disassembled the coupling, bought the replacement online, went on a trip, got back, got the part in the post, fitted and reassembled everything, all in time for our weekly wash to go on.

I'm a hero and it's all thanks to you!

By Blogger Rich, at January 31, 2009 7:43 PM  

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