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Saturday, October 29, 2005
The Story of "O!" (that being our painful exclamation as we get screwed again and again by Big Gubmint and Big Corporations)
Awwite all you cool grasshoppers, go grab you a beer and the Samurai'll tell you a story.
Now, Dupont, being a company with lots of money to throw around, paid off a bunch of fancy-pants scientists and engineers at these high-dollar universities to show that R-12 was reeeel bad and needed to be banned. So these fancy-pants university types cooked up some numbers showing how all them nasty little molecules in R-12 was eatin' up the orzos in the atmosphere...er somethin' like that.
Well, I didn't know no better and besides, I didn't wanna hurt them little orzos 'cuz, heck, they ain't never done nothin' to me. So I lined up with all the other suckers, er, I mean, tradesmen and plunked down a bunch of money for a fancy new recovery unit. Funny thang happened though. When the EPA got into the bidness of regamalating refrigerants, their prices all went sky high. So the cost to replace the compressor on your average beer fridge went from $150 to, oh, say $400, once you figger in the higher refrigerant cost and a refrigerant recovery charge. Well, at that price, people were just hauling their old fridges off to the landfill and buying new ones. Lots of good fridges piling up in landfills today. But, hey, the gubmint knows what's best 'cuz they here to help! Meanwhile, Dupont is back in bidness, happily raking in the big bucks selling it's new line of R-12 replacement refrigerants. Ain't gubmint great? I think everybody awwta own one! And so the gubmint and the big shot corporations who benefit from their regamalations all lived happily ever after. The End I can tell you that my recovery unit makes a reeel spiffy footstool in my workshop 'cuz that's all I ever use it for. Never even used it once. Wanna buy one cheap?
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 17:50 ET. [permalink]
Sue wrote:
Back so soon? Ok, with that crash course in washer anatomy, let's light this candle with the simple stuff, first. We'll start behind the washer... oh, cut it out! ... where the two water fill hoses connect. They'll connect from the shutoff valves at the wall to the water inlet valve on the back of the washer. Lay some heavy-powered eyeball action, aided by the brilliant illumination from the halogen search beam you're using, on both ends of those fill hoses looking for any sign of water. And, by the way, if your fill hoses look like this, well, you and ol' Brother Noah 'bout to have something in common... 'cept he had forewarning; but now you do, too! Awwite, ever-thang looks good with the fill hoses, so now we pop that front kick plate, like ahso. We're looking for evidence of leaking from either the tub boot or from the tub gasket. Here's a thought question: since the tub boot is right up front, and if it were leaking, where would we see signs of leaking? Ooo, you're good! If your tub boot is leaking, this excerpt from the service manual should hepya replace it. Ok, here's a tougher one: given that the tub gasket goes all the way around the tub, where would you expect its characteristic leak pattern to be? That's a little less obvious, but this post explains what to look for and a minimally-invasive procedure that may fix it. Finally, I have also seen, on rare occasions, where a bra wire pierced the pump suction boot and created a leak. Smile! It's a Friggidaire! (yes, I meant to spell it that way)
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 01:24 ET. [permalink]
Friday, October 28, 2005
How to Replace the Water Inlet Valve on Most Washers; Maytag, Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Roper, Kenmore, Estate, GE, Hotpoint, Frigidaire
A handy compilation of water inlet valve replacement procedures from our friends at RepairClinic. Tear 'em up, Hoss!
Others:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 21:17 ET. [permalink]
Thursday, October 27, 2005
How to Replace the Tub Boot on a Frigidaire-built, front-loading Washing Machine; Frigidaire washer repair; tub boot
1) If the machine has a dryer stacked on top of it or is positioned in such a way that it would be too much bother to move, just leave it where it is. However, if it is possible, it would be easier to do this job if the machine could be leaned. If leaning it back is not possible, then a 6 or 8 inch block of wood will be handy to use to wedge between the front panel and the tub to hold the tub back out of the way. 2) The boot is attached to a lip around the perimeter of the opening in the front panel and is glued on in spots about three inches apart, all the way around. Use a razor blade as shown in illustration #1 to carefully slice the glued spots on the boot away from the front panel. 3) Once the boot is loose from the front panel, push it into the opening of the tub and out of the way as shown in illustration #2. At this point, if the machine is not leaning back, take your block of wood and while pushing back on the tub through the opening, wedge the block between the front panel and the tub about ten inches to the bottom - right of the opening. This will give you more space to work with the boot. 4) Notice that the boot is still attached to the duct that is located just inside the front panel at the upper left corner from the opening. This is where the water, soap, bleach and fabric softener enter the tub. To remove (and later on, reattach) the clamp holding this in place on the end of the duct you will have to make yourself a tool from a three inch piece of 3/8 inch soft copper tubing. In illustration #3 you will see that the end of the tube is flattened somewhat so that it can be slipped over the twisted ends of the clamp as shown in illustration #4. Twist the tube counterclockwise to slip the clamp and set both the tool and the wire clamp aside. Pull the boot free from the duct. 5) Using both hands, grab onto the boot at the top of the opening to the tub and pull downward and toward you with slow steady pressure. As the boot is pulled free from the outer lip of the tub (at the top), the coiled spring that holds the boot from the groove behind the lip around the opening to the front shell will become visible. You can either continue pulling on the boot until it comes off or you can hook the spring (with a piece of coat hanger fashioned into a hook) and pull it off and then pull the boot off separately. 6) Once the boot is off, examine the lip that extends around the entire perimeter of the front opening of the front shell of the tub (the front shell and the rear shell are so named because when bolted together, form the outer tub that surrounds the inner tub). The boot has a lip that will have to be folded into the groove behind the lip on the front shell. To start this, examine the new boot and locate the groove in front of the lip that corresponds to the similar lip and tab on the tub shell. It will make this job a lot easier if you can get some liquid dishwashing soap from the consumer, and sparingly lubricate this groove on the boot to make it easier to slip onto the lip of the shell (see illustration #5). No soap is preferable to too much soap. Have a cloth handy to wipe the soap from your fingers. 7) Once the groove in the boot is lubed with soap, locate the arrow as shown in illustration #6 that is located on the top of the boot (located to the right of the extrusion that slips over the duct). This arrow must point up when the boot is installed. 8) With the boot in one hand and the other hand spreading the lip and groove (on the boot near the arrow), force the lip into the groove behind the lip at the top of the opening on the tub shell (see illustration #7). 9) With one hand holding the boot so it does not slip off, use the other hand to continue spreading the lip and groove of the boot further to the right. In this way, you continue this action 360 degrees around until the boot is mounted onto the front shell ( illustration #8). Your fingers will take a beating while you do this and may become quite tired. Do not give up. Just pop a cold one (without letting go of the boot) and keep at it. Rest one hand at a time if needed. Whatever you do, do not remove both hands until the boot is on (unless you want it to fall off and then you get to start all over with it). 10) Now is the time to put the spring back on. Included in the BOOT KIT is a set of three spacers (an example of which is shown in illustration #9). These spacers are to be used to hold the spring in place in the groove on the outside perimeter of the boot. As it will take both hands to stretch this spring into place, these spacers will prevent the spring from popping out when you let go of it to use both hands to stretch it further around the boot. Begin by pushing the spring down into the groove just forward from where the boot contacts the front shell at about the 12 o'clock position. While holding it in place with one hand, use the other to tightly wedge the spacer above it, between the spring (in its groove) and the weight ring above it as shown in illustration #10. 11) Working your way to the right, push the spring down into the groove. When you have placed the spring about 90 degrees around the opening from the first spacer, the spring will begin to get tight. Push in another spacer at that point (making sure to keep checking the first spacer, if it pops out - the spring will pop out). 12) Continue working your way around (while checking both spacers, you don't want them to slip out) until you reach 180 degrees from the first spacer. Install the third spacer. 13) The spring will be extremely tight now as shown in illustration # 11. Once you have gone more than half way around, the spring will be easier to roll into the rest of the groove (so long as all three spacers are holding tight). When you have the spring in place, make sure to remove the three spacers before proceeding to step # 14. 14) Replace the boot extrusion back onto the duct and pull it up over the ridge on the duct near the top of the opening. Reinstall the clamp in such a way that the clamp sits between the ridges on the extrusion and above the ridge on the duct. Snap the clamp closed with the copper tubing tool that you used previously. 15) Before attaching the new boot to the front panel, clean the surface of the front panel with alcohol or household cleaner. Also clean the flat surface of the new boot that will be contacting the front panel. This step is needed to remove the mold release material used in the manufacturing process and will allow the adhesive to stick. 16) Remount the boot onto the front panel as shown in illustration #13, making sure that the boot is not wrinkled. If large wrinkles exist, they may pool water in the boot and dribble onto the floor when the door is opened. If this is the case, pull it loose from the front panel and remount it slightly more clockwise or counter clockwise as needed. 17) Using the adhesive supplied in the kit, sparingly apply dots of glue under the edge of the boot as shown in illustration #14. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening. Caution: you will need to wait a couple of hours before using the washer to allow the adhesive enough time to dry.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 17:39 ET. [permalink]
Wednesday, October 26, 2005Mark wrote:
Thank you, mah bruthah! I've always tried to make this site informative as well as entertaining and it's always cool when I hear from kindred spirits, like yourself, who "get it." Mucho domos and keep thinking your own thinks!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 22:32 ET. [permalink]
Recommended Reading: Three Easy Steps to Total Washing Machine Flood Prevention
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 02:17 ET. [permalink]
Tuesday, October 25, 2005Doctor K wrote:
Hey, don't run off and start taking off the back panel like a kid opening a Christmas present-- take a breath and read this short missive on how to disassemble your washer. You'll be glad you did. As you probably suspected, the valve can no longer be trusted to control 40 to 60 psi of water pressure every day, all day long; you have to replace the valve. And, if you purchase the new valve here within the next five minutes, I'll confer a special blessing upon you. Nolo contendere, e pluribus unum, my child.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 23:58 ET. [permalink]
Monday, October 24, 2005
Looking between the back of the drum and the heater can with my flashlight, I saw that the drum bearing had broken clean off! You can see what I'm talking about in this picture that compares the old and new drum bearing. You can also see a closeup of the failed bearing here. Incidentally, for instructions and pictures on disassembling this dryer as well as other dryer brands, see this illuminating tome on dryer disassembly. Anyway, when the bearing on this dryer needs to be replaced, it makes one helluva racket. The noise will go on, getting progressively louder and more skull-piercing, for several weeks before some type of catastrophic failure occurs. I don't know how they could put up with the noise all that time. When the dryer finally stopped working altogether, then it was time to call for service. Enter the Samurai.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 23:12 ET. [permalink]
rvancott wrote:
This is caused by delayed ignition of the gas. You didn't include a model number so I can't be sure of who the real manufacturer is (RE: Who made my Kenmore?) But this was a known problem with the ignition ports on the bake burner tube in some Whirlpool-built gas ranges, including some of the ones made for Kenmore. The ignition ports are special holes in the burner that line up with the hot-surface ignitor (the "glow plug"). When the valve opens, gas gushes through the ignition ports and hits the ignitor where it ignites. The ignition flashes back into the burner tube and ignites the gas in the remaing burner tube holes. The problem was a manufacturing defect with the gas ignition ports on the bake burner where the ignition ports where offset just enough that it delayed the efficient ignition of the gas; instead, the gas had to flow for a few moments before it finally found the ignitor. The result was a BOOM when all that extra gas outside the burner tube ignited. The fix was to install the new, corrected burner tube, which you can acquire here.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 01:03 ET. [permalink]
Sunday, October 23, 2005
What to Check When Your Refrigerator or Freezer is Warming Up; refrigerator warm; refrigerator repair
Whenever I'm on a warm refrigerator complaint, here's the fire drill I follow:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 03:16 ET. [permalink]
How to Open a Whirlpool or Kenmore Direct-Drive Washer; how to take apart washer; washing machine disassembly; washer repair
Doc wrote:
This is a Whirlpool-built direct drive washer. It opens up a little differently from what you might expect. Many people, thinking the top panel pops up, begin ruthlessly prying on the seam between the top and front panel and only end up with a disfigured washer. I've seen more adventurous types actually remove the entire back panel, getting them no closer to what they were trying for. Let the Samurai enlighten you. The entire cabinet removal procedure is illustrated in this diagram. Even though the procedure is very straight forward, a couple of fine points are worth mentioning:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 02:16 ET. [permalink]
recinos wrote:
Come in, grasshopper, and find shelter from the storm. I've written an easy-to-understand primer on making basic electrical measurements for your ineffable inflatus.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 01:27 ET. [permalink]
Saturday, October 22, 2005
Went on a service call for an Amana gas oven that wouldn't fire up. When I arrived, I turned on the oven to verify the complaint-- the ignitor (the thing pictured here) glowed but didn't fire up. I measured the current draw on the ignitor (see this page for more details on that) and read 2.8 amps-- too low to open the gas valve. When I turned off the range and removed the ignitor, I saw that its wires had been pinched so badly that it appeared the wires were intermittently making contact with the cabinet and arcing. While this wasn't the direct cause for the oven not firing up in this case, it could have eventually become a cause for other problems, such as nuisance breaker tripping.
Anyway, installed a new ignitor and they lived happily ever after.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 09:50 ET. [permalink]
Thursday, October 20, 2005
Using Archived Pearls of Wisdom from the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum to Fix Your Insolent Appliances
Jedi Appliance Guy refers to archived pages of wisdom from the World-Famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums as he prepares to do battle with a Maytag Neptune washer to replace the boot seal.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 02:12 ET. [permalink]
With the cabinet removed and the pump pulled off, you're looking straight at the motor. The pump is pulled off to the left and held back by a screwdriver pegged into the frame.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 02:04 ET. [permalink]
To raise the top panel on this dishwasher, you have to first remove the door and then the front panel to expose the top panel latch bolts, located on each side, just below the top panel. With the top panel raised, you have access to the lid switch, water fill valve and injection assembly, dispenser assembly, and the top part of the tub boot. This can all be done with a #2 Phillip's screwdriver, but I like to use a 5/16" nut driver on the top panel latch bolts. Just another one of my bad habits. ; )
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 01:58 ET. [permalink]
Monday, October 17, 2005Somedays, after running service calls and dealing with one or two USDA Grade A pricks, I conjure up images of my day where all I do is go to unoccupied homes, fix the appliance, take the check left for me on the counter and then head off to the next job. Even though most folks are really cool to work for, about one customer in every hundred is a real ball-buster-- they're the ones that make you wanna leave humans outta the repair picture. One of my readers, J. "Dusty" Tingstrom, captures this spirit perfectly in her ode to appliance techs:
Did she capture every tech's on-the-job prayer, or what? But it don't work that way in the real world now does it? Nope, there's other people involved every step of the way, from the initial call for service to the collecting payment and leaving. And this reveals a fact of life about doing professional appliance repair that many techs just don't get: You don't just fix appliances-- you also fix customers. You could be the best tech in the world, with an encyclopedic knowledge about the innards of all appliances, ranging from the low-end to the exotic, but if the customer thinks you're a 'tard, what have you gained? Once the customer puts you under the technician microscope, they'll find some reason to think you're incompetent and didn't fix the appliance right. Maybe they'll think it sounds funny or smells funny after you fixed it. Whatever. The point is, you gotta fix the customer-- fixing the appliance is only part of the job while you're there in the house. How do we fix the customer? By communicating with them in a straight-forward manner; by not bullshitting when you don't know something; by doing everything you said you'll do, when you said you'll do it; by taking care not to crap up the customer's home while you're in there; and, of course, by fixing the broken appliance and standing behind your work with a meaningful warranty.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 03:52 ET. [permalink]
Saturday, October 15, 2005
Using the Concept of Appliance Half-Life to Determine When to Replace an Old Dryer (or any other appliance)
Susan wrote:
Your visit to my website seeking appliance wisdom honors me! The problem with your dryer was most likely a fouled pilot assembly. I don't even know if burner parts are still available for pilot-ignition gas dryers. Nevertheless, let's do a repair benefit analysis from the superior persepective afforded by reading my enlightening tome, "How Long Should Appliances Last?" which you mentioned in your email. Looking up dryers in the appliance half-life table, we see that dryers have a half-life of 13 years. Since your 17-year old dryer is four years older than the half-life, your chances for a successful repair on this dryer is approximately 35%. Lemme put it this way: If one of my local customers were to call me to schedule a service call for this dryer, I would encourage them to get a new one. You made the right decision.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 03:42 ET. [permalink]
Thursday, October 13, 2005Filomena wrote:
The most important advice I can give you is Samurai's Ichiban Law of Appliance Repair, "Never replace a part unless you have proof that it is bad." But people tell me, "Yo, Samurai, we don't know how to test stuff and use those fancy instruments like you do, so how we gonna get the 'proof,' smart guy?" Ah, grasshoppah, seek and ye shall find. But you gotta seek. And you gotta be honest with yourself about knowing what you know as well as what you don't know. In the long run, you'll save time and money, and you'll gain the satisfaction of learning something, too (they say that continual learning is the key to avoiding old-age dementia). Now, let's apply these principles to fixing your dryer using the information freely and readily available on the Internet... like at this website, for instance. Easiest way to find the information you need ratcheer to fix your dryer is to do a site search using Yahoo!™. In your case, fer ezzample, I'd use a moderately specific search term such as, "gas dryer no heat." Let's pop that little gem into the Yahoo! site search box below: and clicking the search button reveals this page-full of gas dryer repair wisdom. What's that you're saying, "How 'bout makin' them fancy electrical measurements, like they talk about on some of those pages pulled up by the Yahoo! site search?" Great question! It shows you're really thinking. Let's apply the search principles we've just learned to this new nugget of knowledge needed to complete our Illumination. Plugging the term electrical measurements into the Yahoo! search box gives this excellent and mercifully short primer on making simple electrical measurements, such as measuring resistance, voltage, and current. I'd like to summarize the foregoing discussion with a haiku that I wrote just for you and rendered in traditional 5-7-5 meter: Gas dryer won't dry.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 20:02 ET. [permalink]
Did you know this website, Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man, has over 2,000 pages of free, easy-to-understand appliance repair help for the do-it-yourselfer? Oui, oui, I shi'ite you not. While I do have a site map that I keep updated, it's just not an efficient way to find what you need if you're on a mission to fix a specific problem with one of your appliances. Fortunately, you have a way of jumping through the vast universe of information at this site and landing on exactly what you need to fix it now. Just use one of the site search engines found on every page of this website; it's either a Yahoo! or a Google site search box. Because I'm such a thoughtful and oh-so-damned-good-looking guy, I've included both below. Happy searching!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 19:44 ET. [permalink]
Wednesday, October 12, 2005And now, a special treat for you Bosch dishwasher owners out there...
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 23:21 ET. [permalink]
Monday, October 10, 2005Yes, Grasshopper, now you, too, can receive the Samurai's secret pearls of appliance repair wisdom delivered to your email in a discreet brown wrapper. Taunt your friends and delight your enemies with your amazing new knowledge! Just enter your email address below. And, no, the Samurai would never stoop to selling or sharing your email address and you can opt out at any time.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 23:18 ET. [permalink]
Whirlpool Washer wont spin - The Laundry Shack - Appliance Repair Hut - The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums; washer repair
This post in the repair forum illustrates a clever use for a digital camcorder in helping to diagnose the problem with this washer. Turns out the washer wouldn't spin because the coupler was stripped out. For someone who has no idea about how these machines work to try to describe the sound is tough. After viewing and listening to just two seconds of the clip, I could tell the problem was a stripped out drive coupler-- heard it many times. Easy repair, too. Got complete instructions here.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 02:08 ET. [permalink]
Removing timer knob on KitchenAid washer KAWE777BWHI - The Laundry Shack - Appliance Repair Hut - The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums; washer repair
Removing a washer timer knob can be tricky and you could cause more damage if you're not careful. For the Whirlpool, Kenmore, or Kitchenaid top loading washer, there's a good explanation of how to remove the timer knob in the repair forum. You can read it here.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 01:59 ET. [permalink]
Saturday, October 08, 2005
Went on a service call on a Maytag Washer today. Complaint was that the washer was dead. When I got there, I started by verifying the customer's complaint. Turns out that the washer would, in fact, spin but would not fill with water. No fill with water == no agitate.
Now, this is a very different problem from the washer being completely dead. This illustrates an important principle of appliance repair: the first step to problem resolution is problem identification. How you gonna fix the problem if you're not even identifying the right problem? All you'll end up doing is fixing the wrong problem! So, with the problem properly identified, I proceeded to troubleshoot the washer. I listened for the soft hum of the water inlet solenoid valves being energized. But all was silent. Time to break out the meter and go fishin'. I figured the problem was gonna be either the pressure switch or the timer. So, I opened the control panel on the washer to commence my scientific inquiry. One problem was immediately apparent: I saw some fuzzy stuff inside the console that, upon closer examination, turned out to be the dearly departed remains of a wayward rodent. All that was left was clumps of hair and parts of a little mouse skeleton. Looking closely at the air tube on the pressure switch, I could see that our deceased mouse friend must've gotten bored inside that control panel because he started gnawing on it. I tried to get a picture of it but my less-than-$100, 3.2 mega-pixel Kodak digital camera only allows me to get so close. You can still kinda make it out in the picture, though. Just use your imagination for the rest. Anyway, did some more testing and found that the pressure switch wasn't getting voltage-- that's a bad timer, slam dunk. Replaced that air tube for good measure, too. Problem solved!
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 21:58 ET. [permalink]
Awwite now, Bubba, one thang you gotsta under-freakin'-stand is that Kenmore ain't no manufacturer of appliances. Nawsir, "Kenmore" represents nothin' more than a bunch of bureaucrats at Sears who sit around and write specifications of and haggle over the price for someone else to make their stuff for them. Period. There ain't no "Kenmore" factory somewhere in Malaysia or anywhere else.
So, who makes Kenmore stuff? Well, lots o' folks. You can tell by looking at the three digit number to the left of the decimal point in the model number. Did I slide that'n by y'too fast, Slick? Read it again: the three digit (that means individual numerals) number (that means sequence of digits) the left of (that means not to the right of) the complete model number (which is a big ol' hairly long ace number). Still confoosed, Grasshopper? Let's take a ezzample. S'pose I gotsa Kenmore refrigerator (or "refirgerator" for the keyboard impaired) with a model number of 363.58097890 and I need to know who actually made that fridge. Well, using Figure 1, above, I look up the "363" portion of the model number and, lo, GE done made that fridge! It's just like FM (freakin' magic), ain't it?
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 16:59 ET. [permalink]
Driving to an appliance service call, I had to pull over for some, eh hem, essential kidney maintenance. It's tough trying to repair an oven, refrigerator, dishwasher, or whatever, while your teeth are chattering from excessive abdominal pressure. In addition to providing that after-glow of relief, it was a nice view.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 03:39 ET. [permalink]
Wednesday, October 05, 2005Went on a service call the other day on a Thermador electric wall oven; complaint - no bake. Now, wall ovens can be tricky to troubleshoot and repair so I came ready for the worst-case scenario which would require me to remove the wall oven. I packed my All Dolly wall oven cart in my Fixite Do service van and off I went. The problem turned out to be evident right off the bat. Following Samurai's 6th Law of Appliance Repair, "Begin troubleshooting right at the problem," I went right to the bake element for a look-see. And, oh my, whatta look-see it was:
As you can see, this calrod heating element finally self-destructed. "But how?" you ask, intrepidly. "No one knows," I answer, sagaciously. "But I thought you were the Samurai?" you exclaim, quizzically. "Samurai-schmamurai," I retort, sardonically, "just replace the element already." At which point, you click here, obediently.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 00:26 ET. [permalink]
Tuesday, October 04, 2005
GE Fridge - Cold Freezer with warm refrigerator - The Kitchen - Appliance Repair Hut - The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums
If you have a GE refrigerator that has a good n' cold freezer but the beer compartment can't get your beer tooth-crackin' cold anymore, it's probably something simple that you can fix yourself, right here, right now.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 23:40 ET. [permalink]
Monday, October 03, 2005
(Part 3 was deleted due to poor cellular phone call quality.)
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 17:57 ET. [permalink]
Saturday, October 01, 2005
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 09:56 ET. [permalink]
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 09:56 ET. [permalink]
Samurai Appliance Repair Man cast these pearls at 09:55 ET. [permalink]
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 Welcome,Grasshopper. I am your gracious host, Samurai Appliance Repair Man.
Hey! There are over 3,000 pages of free appliance repair help at this website! Use the site search box below to quickly find ezzzzacly what you need to Fix It Now! 
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man 
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor." |
URL: http://www.fixitnow.com
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Once upon a time, in a place that was called the "land of the free," there was a big ol' company called Dupont. Now, Dupont made a thang that we old timers held near and dear to our hearts and that was R-12, a refrigerant used in just about every type of refrigerator ever made, including beer coolers. But Dupont had a problem: their patent on R-12 was about to expire and everyone else and their momma was gonna start making it, too. Well, it don't take a rocket scientist, like yours truly, to figger out that once this happened, the price of R-12 was gonna take a nose dive.
Anyway, Dupont goes and presents all these high falootin' studies to one of the fourth branches of the gubmint, the EPA. The EPA said, "Hmmm, we can't be eatin' up all them little orzos like that there. Gubmint has to do something about that!" So they came out with a big ol' riot act of new regamalations where they said everyone what works on beer coolers has to have a new-fangled recovery unit to catch all them bad molecules. 
Yep, sounds like your water inlet valve can't quite pinch it off anymore. The valve is mounted to the washer's rear bulkhead (that's Navy talk for "wall" or "panel" -- don't let it throw you), as seen here to the right.
