How to fix a GE Arctica refrigerator that’s making ice crystals all over everything in the freezer compartment

So it’s Friday afternoon and you go to pull out some T-bones from the freezer to thaw for grilling tonight with good friends and Michelob only to discover that there are these weird freakin’ ice crystals all over everything in your freezer. The steaks are still frozen and you *hope* they’ve been frozen all along but what’s with the frost all over your stuff?

Couple thangs could be going on here, Hoss. First, listen to the fan in the freezer with the door closed. Listen real good for a while, press your ear up against the door if’n you need to. Does that fan sound steady or is it ramping up and down in speed? If it’s hunting around then you need to replace the Muthaboard ‘cuz it’s sending unsteady voltage to the fan.

Awwite, so the fan sounds steady, no weirdness going on there. Now what? Well, Imma tellya so hang on to yo britches.

Here’s today’s psychrometrics lesson: in a freezer environment, repeated thaw and freeze cycles will form ice crystals on solid surfaces.

“Why is that, Captain Ron?”

Well, nobody knows. All I know is that in these GE refrigamerators, with all that fancy-ass electronified boolsheet, that if the defrost thermistor is the old-style and the freezer fan is running on low speed all the time, the defrost cycle will be controlled by the hi-limit safety thermostat and not by Mr. Thermistor.

So, what does this mean? No, he is NOT the freakin’ Kwisatz Haderach.

It means the freezer has been getting waaay too warm during defrost and making everything in there wet and clamy ‘cuz it was heating up until the high limit finally kicked out the heating element. Then when the compressor turns back on and starts cooling everything down with the fan blowing, all that water vapor desublimates directly to a solid. (Did you like that one, “desublimates?” Oh yeah, we professional appliantologists know all about that fancy scientifical stuff. That’s why we makes the big money! )

Make sure you have the new, upgraded thermistors in your GE fridge. If not, do it now.

Kinda makes you think twice about eating those T-bones tonight, da tovarish? Can you say salmonella?

Still confoosed Grasshoppah? Come start a new topic in the Kitchen appliance repair forum and we’ll straighten yo azz right out.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Need a new muthaboard for your GE refrigerator? You may be able to get for FREE from GE!

So, using the expert help available both here and at the Samurai School of Appliantology, you’ve determined that the muthaboard on your GE fridge is FUBAR. A Samurai Grasshoppha, Crouching Schnauzer, has shared with me his journey through the byzantine corporate maze that is GE which resulted in his getting a new replacement muthaboard for FREE and has requested that I make this information available to you. Stand in awe and be amazed at the power of the Samurai Internet.

From Crouching Schnauzer:

Honorable Samurai was most helpful in enlightening me in the ways of defeating the cunning GE refrigerator muthaboard. I have gained much wisdom in my journey, and now ask that the Samurai would share this wisdom with other DIY warriors via his vast web presence:

After reading up on all the GE muthaboard issues, I was preparing to fork over $75-150 bucks for a new one myself. However, I took a shot with GE customer service. I have to give them credit; their poor quality product was balanced out with good customer service (at least in my case).

I called this number:
800-694-8477
which I got from this link:
http://www.geappliances.com/search/google/infobase/10006252.htm

…which is actually for moisture issues on side-by-side fridges. I inquired about recall on my muthaboard, stating that I knew that were recalls on other models (even though mine was not actually an included model).

I made these points:
1) My fridge is only 3 years old
2) If I let GE come out to fix it, I’d be paying at least $200-300, which would be better spent toward a whole new unit.
3) Even the part alone from GE would cost twice as much than from another online seller.

So, after what I consider only a moderate amount of persuading, the kind folks at GE sent me a new muthaboard NO CHARGE! They let me know that I would have no warranty if I installed it myself, but I politely pointed out that I could just get another board for $100, instead of paying $200-300 for a GE service call.

I was pretty excited about this victory, and perhaps it may help others in a similar way. The part they sent was Main Board WR55X10942 (not my original part #), which seems to be the one they use for many models that need replacements.

Thank you for passing this info along!

Crouching Schnauzer

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Maytag Atlantis washer thrust bearing C-clip wisdom

From Grand Master Funk appl.tech.29501 in the Samurai School of Appliantology:

How many washers do you have under the “C” clip?
if you have a thick and a thin washer…thats ok
if you have 2 thin washers thats ok
if you have 2 thick washers that not ok…

Read more… http://appliantology.org/topic/30968-maytag-atlantis-mavt754eww/

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Google Public DNS

I’ve been happily using the OpenDNS for over a year now. Then, a few days ago, started having problems with my photo hosting site, appliantology.Smugmug.com, not loading. I went thru the usual browser cache clearing and DNS flushing ritual, even tried different browsers (Google Chrime and Mozilla TiredFox; I normally run Apple’s Suckfari) all to no avail. Alas, what was a besotted cyber Samurai to do?

After puttering around some more, I discovered that I could connect to my Smugmug site thru either one of my VPN services (I use both WiTopia and Patriot Internet) which use their own DNS. I could also connect if I disabled OpenDNS and went back to to using Comcast’s DNS without VPN.

So all this seemed to point the problem to OpenDNS. Even with Smugmug whitelisted, I still couldn’t connect. Seems their DNS wasn’t so open. Or maybe it was too open and it has a poisoned DNS cache.

Whatever the cause of the problem, I embarked on a quest for a permanent cure and discovered Google Public DNS.

I know, I know, Google is evil, they’re a CIA startup and an NSA front and they collect personal data and eat puppies but damn it all, it just freakin’ works! And lighting fast, too! I never realized how much DNS affects browsing speed.

If you can stomach the puppy-eating stuff and wanna try it out, the IP for it is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Repair Forums: Appliantology.org

Replacing the water inlet valve in GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators

If your icemaker quit making ice or the water dispenser quit squirting out water, one cause could be a bad water inlet valve. You can test the valve coils with your ohm meter to see if one of them reads open like ahso…

Photobucket

If you get a very high resistance reading or what we professional appliantologists call “slap-azz open,” then you need to replace the water inlet valve. This video shows you how to do it…

And you can buy the valve ratcheer.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Step-by-step instructions on replacing the door boot seal on Frigidaire, Electrolux, Crosley and Kenmore front-load washers

Easy as 1, 2, 3…

First, buy the door boot seal here.

Next, get some basic hand tools together. You’ll need a screwdriver set and a sturdy pair of needle nose pliers.

Finally, watch this video:

Ees seemple, da?

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

#Appliantology Newsletter, April 2011: #Refrigerator and #IceMaker Maintenance

Refrigerator and Ice Maker Maintenance

We’re trying out a new concept for a newsletter here in Samurai-land. In
addition to the quarterly (or so) full-blown newsletter with lots of
diverse information, we’re going to experiment with a monthly, shorter
issue that focuses on scheduled preventative maintenance tips for specific
appliances. Let us know whatcha think. If it’s not useful to you, then
please lemme know ‘cuz, if that’s the case, then I’d rather be out hiking
in the mountains instead of playing tippety-tap on the keyboard.

This being early Spring, we usually start getting lots of refrigerator and
ice maker service calls. Here are some things you can do that may help
avoid a service call on these cold appliances.

Refrigerator or stand-alone Freezer

Manual Defrost Refrigerator or Freezer

On manual-defrost refrigerator/freezers, check for frost build up in the
freezer. If there’s more than half an inch, it’s time for a defrosting.
Remove all the food, unplug the unit, and block open the door to let all
the frost melt. On upright units, this can make a wet mess on the floor so
put some towels down. On chest freezers, there will either be a drain or
all the water will collect in the bottom and can then be sponged out.

NEVER ever even think about using a putty knife or any kind of sharp metal
to scrape the frost off. It is very easy to puncture the evaporator and
ruin the refrigerator. Ain’t no going back from that one, Hoss.

Automatic Defrost Refrigerator or Freezer

On self-defrosting refrigerator/freezers, clean the drain pan underneath
the refrigerator that collects water (Some are not accessible. Don’t worry
if you can’t find yours). No need to go crazy, just wipe out the dog hair
and dried gookus so you don’t get a scum floatilla with stinkus when the
flood of condensate starts with the more humid weather.

Clean the refrigerator cooling fan and the condenser coils. The coils are
underneath the refrigerator. They are usually black and look like a series
of small tubes and “fins” connecting the tubes. Order a refrigerator
condenser brush to make the job easier: http://fixitnow.com/?p=6234

Check the door seals to be sure they are sealing properly against the frame
of the refrigerator/freezer. While you can get by with weak seals during
the colder, dryer winter months, they’ll let in lots of heat and moisture
during the humid, warm summer months and cause all kinda weird problems
inside the box. Do the Federal Reserve Note test: take your favorite
Federal Reserve Note and close the door on it, then give it a tug. Should
require some tension to pull it out. If not, that’s a weak spot in the
gasket. Do this all the way around the both doors.

If the gaskets are torn, or don’t seal properly, the refrigerator or
freezer may not cool properly. You may also start seeing frost formations
in weird locations inside the beer compartment or the freezer. This
problem is worse when the weather is warmer and more humid. Clean the
gaskets and frame with warm soapy water so they don’t stick to the frame.

Inspect the back wall of the freezer for any frost build up. It’s not
normal to have any frost on the back wall or floor of a self-defrosting
appliance. The presence of frost is normally an indication the
self-defrosting system has a problem. You can remove the back wall inside
the freezer to get some eyeballs on the evaporator coil. This page will
help you interpret what you see: http://fixitnow.com/?p=6036

For help troubleshooting warm refrigerator problems, use our warm
refrigerator flowchart: http://fixitnow.com/?p=4296

Ice Maker

If you have a built-in ice/water filter, replace the filter approximately
every six months. If you don’t have a water filter, and you find your ice
tastes bad and/or smells funny, use a “taste and odor” water filter on the
incoming water supply line. A universal water filter will fix ya right up.

We carry filters for all refrigerator brands and models:

When Was the Last Time You Replaced the Water Filter in Your Refrigerator?

If you don’t have an icemaker, consider installing one now before the
Department of Energy outlaws them. No chit, Mon, they’re really moving to
do exactly that, see this topic at the Samurai School of Appliantology for
more info:

http://appliantology.org/topic/30729-doe-to-ban-ice-makers/

Many people don’t realize that virtually all refrigerators are set up to
easily accept an add-on icemaker. Many refrigerators have a tag inside the
freezer at the back that gives a kit number indicating exactly what kind of
icemaker will fit in that refrigerator. We carry add-on icemaker kits that
fit virtually every refrigerator/freezer on the market, most are
conveniently laid out for you on this page:

http://appliancepartsresource.com/ice_maker_accessories.php

If you’re having a problem with your refrigerator, freezer, or ice maker,
come get free help from the appliantological masters in the Samurai School
of Appliantology:

http://appliantology.org

Kanpai!

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

How to fix a scorched muthaboard in a #GE #refrigerator

Your GE fridge is on the fritz and not keeping the brewskis cold anymore. So you go behind the fridge, remove the metal cover on the muthaboard compartment and SHAZAYYAM, looky yonder…

GE refrigerator scorched muthaboard
(click for larger view)

How does a brutha fix this sucka? Ain’t but one way, Hoss: replace that mutha. Come git you a new muthaboard ratcheer.

Easy to install, just sing along with the destructions that come bundled with the new board. Good to go, sailor.

You may be wondering, “But dearly besotted Samurai, won’t the new board just blow again unless the cause of the failure is identified and correctified?”

Interesting modification of the word, “corrected,” grasshoppah.

The answer is that these electrolytic capacitors will just blow out like that without anything else necessarily being bad. But here’s a little secret: If you buy the new board through my part link, install it and it blows again in less than a year, return it for a full refund! It’s the best deal you’re gonna get all day and it makes for a risk-free repair.

Now go forth and conquer!

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.