Have GE Built in oven. Model:JT910BOA1BB Ser:AV625749Q After baking at 350 for 3 hours and then self cleaning oven for 4 hours, had F7 error code. Pushed clear/off – got F7 again. Turned off power to unit – got F7 again. Ordered electronic control unit from RepairClinic.com. Replaced control. Tested oven – heated up, turned off, self-clean started, door locked, etc. – looked fine. Used oven 3 days later (heated at 350 for 2 hours), that night F7 displayed again AND oven heated on its own. Pls advise. Do I have a key pad problem instead??
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I worked on one of these recently, exact same problem: intermittent F7 error code. I couldn’t even get it to do the F7 error while I was there. There’s a pretty good tech service sheet inside the control panel. I followed its procedure for testing the keypad (which was nothing more than pressing all the buttons and hearing it go “BEEP!” ).
But the tech sheet did mention that intermittent F7 problems are usually caused by poor connections. So I pulled the ribbon connector off the control board and cleaned the copper connectors using a pink pencil eraser. That whupped that puppy!
But then I went out on another service call, same oven, different house. The pink pencil eraser trick didn’t work on this one so I had to apply some of that famous Samurai gray matter. To identify the problem on this one, I cut power to the range and disconnected the ribbon connector that connected the touch pad to the electronic range control (ERC) board. Then I re-applied power and let it sit that way for 24 hours after which the customer was instructed to call me and report on the error code status of the oven. If no error code was reported, I knew the touch pad was the problem. If, on the other hand, the F7 error code came back, then I knew the (ERC) was the culprit. In this case, the error code did not come back during the test period and, using my keen, Vulcan-like powers of deduction, concluded that the touch pad was defective. I replaced the touch pad and problem solved!
It’s important that you don’t skimp the disconnect test because there’s a big difference in price between the ERC and touch pad. So, you want to be right on this one. Ok, after you do this test and determine which part you need to replace, come and get it here.
To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.
First off, thank you for posting this information!
I have been having intermittent F7 errors that increased in frequency to where I don’t have the power to my oven on at all. I can turn it on and use it for short baking needs, but then I have to turn the power off again as it will start beeping F7 again.
I disconnected the ribbon and then turned the power to the unit back on. About one minute later it started beeping again, but this time with an F0 error. Think it’s my ERC or ?
Susanne, since you’re getting F7 and F0, you’ll need BOTH the touchpad and the ERC.
noooo! I’ll probably hire someone then to do the work. From your guesstimation, how much should that run me? I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth it or if I should start anew. Anything I should watch out for as I’ve never had to hire an appliance repair person before.
Hire someone? Why? This is plug and chug! Just cut the breaker to the oven before starting work.
If you are still set on hiring a servicer to do this for you, then you need to listen to our podcast on appliance service calls:
I have a 5 year old Kenmore double oven with a ERC with a GE brand, however, it is made by Sanyo. The control went wonky six months ago. The problem appeared to be the ribbon conductor/connector interface. Cleaning did not provide a long term solution. Finally to keep peace in the family, I purchased a new ERC and touchpanel at a cost of $600 from Sears. Next time I’ll get my parts from Samurai. Well, the new parts failed in the same identical way after five months. Sears only provides a 90 day warranty. Next time I’ll buy my parts from Samurai and get a one year warranty! Wiggling the ribbon conductor would temporarily restore operation. Yesterday I started to get the dreaded F7 error code. The isolation process indicated that the problem was in the touchpanel. There is no way to perform an autopsy on the panel to determine the root cause of the problem. However, since manipulating the ribbon cable restored operation, I slipped a piece of paper between the two sections of ribbon cable where it enters the panel. So far the replacement unit is working fine. So, I setup the old unit on my work bench and tested it the same way. Initially it was wonky. When I slipped a piece of paper between the two ribbon cables, the problem went away. I may decided to sacrifice one of the units to determine the exact cause of this failure. Hey, like I’m an engineer and love to take things apart to see how they work or why they don’t work. I did an internet search. Found many references to similar GE problems. One reference mentioned 200 cases in one neighborhood. Sounds like GE has or had a design problem. Anyone for a class action suit?
My husband concurs, he’ll install himself. The booklet that comes with the oven has manufacturer part numbers that do not seem to match what we actually have. We discovered the ERC is your part number 875280. The touchpad we can not find any model number written on it. There is one number on it but your database says that part does not exist. When I did a general search on touchpads, I was able to find one that looks exactly like the one we have, but I’m not sure if there are others that also look the same but are slightly different somehow? The one we found is item number 770437. It looks identical. Is there someplace weird I shoudl check for part number? Do you know if the ERC we chose and that touchpad work together? I don’t want to accidentally buy one that looks right but won’t fit, etc.
Thanx much for your help Samurai! =)
Just checking to see if you know if there are any other touchpads that look like item number 770437. I’d look myself but there are like 200 pages of touchpads hehe.