Daily Archives: January 28, 2009

Cheap Fix for a Dim Display on an Oven Control Panel

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A common problem on ovens and ranges with the digital display is that the display starts to go dim after a while. It usually starts gradually and gets progressively dimmer until you can barely see it. You have two choices of repair tactics:

1. Replace the electronic control board, typical cost: $250. And there’s no guarantee that the display won’t dim again in a another couple of years.

2. Replace the capacitors on the control board, typical cost: $10. And you gotta be able to solder on printed circuit boards.

Here’s the inside scoop on what’s happening. The digital display is powered by very specific DC drive voltages. Theses voltages are created by a transformer and stabilized by capacitors, all of which are located on the control board. Most of these capacitors are only rated to a working temperature of 220˚F. Well, it don’t take a brain surgeon, like yours so very frikkin’ truly, to realize that over time the heat will reduce the capacitor’s ability to capacitate thus lowering the drive voltage and dimming the display. Awwite, that’s all the theory we need to know so let’s get into the generic strategery of this repair…

The specifics will vary with the exact layout and composition of the control board you’re working on but, generally, the flow goes like this:

1. Kill power to the unit.

2. Disassemble whatever you need to to get at the control board.

3. Locate the capacitors on the control board. Typically, there are three but, again, go with what you see. They’ll look something like this:

radial-capacitor-polarity.jpg

4. Make a list of the capacitors, noting the capacitance, working voltage, and temperature rating printed on each capacitor.

5. Go to your local Radio Shack and buy the replacement caps. It’s OK for the replacements to have a higher working voltage than the original but not lower. Try to buy the ones with the highest temperature rating you can get. And match the capacitance rating (usually given in micro-farads, μf) as close as you can to the original.

6. Unsolder the old caps and solder in the new one – soldering help here. Be careful to observe the correct polarity when installing the new caps!

Now go pop yourself a cold brewski and get me one while you’re at it. Mucho domos!

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Whirlpool Duet Front Loading Washer Leaves Water in Drum and Clothes Wet

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This is an uncommon problem in the Whirlpool Duet washer (also sold under the Kenmore brand as the HE2t and HE3t): after the cycle completes, there’s still water left in the drum and, of course, the clothes are sopping wet. If the problem is something caught in the pump, usually the machine would give an F/02 (long drain) error code. Even without an error code in the display, you still gotta check the pump for stray panties and other goodies because it’s part of due diligence. If the pump is clear, then the problem is the wash cycle program. Since the cycle program is controlled by the Central Control Unit (CCU), one of the electronic control boards in this washer, then the solution is to replace the CCU:

CCU for a Whirlpool Duet washer - click it to git it, Hoss

We recently helped a talented Apprentice in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum solve this problem. Read the gripping saga of his repair odyssey.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.