Monthly Archives: May 2010

Frigidaire Affinity Front Loading Washing Machine with Undocumented Error Code E6E

Q: Undocumented error code? Does that mean it’s illegal?

A: No, but you’ll wish it was.

This refers to the Frigidaire Affinity front loading washers, example model number LTF2940EE0. The E6E error code that you may see on the display isn’t listed in the service manual or the tech sheet, like the one below:

Frigidaire LTF2940ES1 Tech Sheet

So, what does this mean? He IS the Kwisatz Haderach! Oops, sorry– had a Dune flashback, must be too much spicy food.

*Buuuuurrrp!* OK, I feel better now. Thanks for your concern. I’m feelin’ the love, yo.

One note on tech sheets before I get back into the nittiest of grittiest on this repair. Tech sheets are really handy things to have when you’re troubleshooting and indispensable for over-electronified appliances that flash weird codes and make space-age beeping noises. It has the error code listings, key sequence for entering service/diagnostic mode, schematics, and lots of other fixit goodies. I hate it when I’m on a service call and go to get the tech sheet only to find that some sleazeball had “borrowed” it on a previous service call. There’s a special place in Hell for parts changing monkeys who do this and you know who you are!

If you’ll be using the schematic or wiring diagram for troubleshooting, you should always use the specific tech sheet supplied with your washer, located behind the bottom kickplate. That’s because the wiring will vary slightly (just enough!) depending on the features built into the specific model you’re working on. The manufacturers will even say that in the service manual, which is intended to cover a family of models.

OK, OK, enough yada-yada. So, what’s the deal with the undocumented E6E error code in these machines? Ain’t but one thang, Hoss: bad interface control board. Come git you one:

interface control board for the frigidaire affinity front load washer-- click it to git it, hoss.

What, you don’t believe me? Do you mock me, sir? Do YOU mock ME? OK, how ’bout this: if you buy the board here and replace it and that doesn’t fix your washer, you can return it for a full refund within 30 days, no hassles, no questions. Yeah, uh huh, who’s yer Daddy?

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Changing Out the Motor-Pump Assembly in a Whirlpool-built Dishwasher

You know the drill: you open your Whirlpool-Kitchenaid-Kenmore dishwasher after it supposedly ran through the cycle last night and… the dishes still have last night’s grits and redeye gravy sauce smeared all over them. Or maybe the clean light is blinking seven times.

So you do some very intelligent button pushing on the control panel and, using your keen Vulcan-like powers of observation, discern that water does indeed flow into the dishwasher. And it gets pumped out after a while, too. OK, no problem with the water. But when it’s supposed to be washing, you hear a loud, low hum or growling noise instead of that old familiar quiet, almost inaudible sound of water swishing around.

Most likely what’s going on is that the wash motor in the dishwasher is what we professional appliantologists call FUBAR. Wellllll, you just grab ‘hold of those two mushy lumps at the base of your spine and let’s do the Samurai Fixit Romp!

Y’see, Hoss, this dishwasher is a lot different from the good ol’ dishwashers with the single big honkin’ center-mounted motor that sandblasted all your dishes clean and pumped the water out. As effective and reliable as that design was– still lots of ’em in still in service out there today– it was deemed politically incorrect by the Masters of the Universe.

So, Whirlpool dutifully developed the new Energy Star-compliant design, dubbed the Point Voyager dishwasher. It uses a much smaller wash motor and an even smaller drain pump. Good idea in theory and it sure does run a helluva lot quieter that the old war horses.

But their weak point seems to be the bearing seal in the wash motor. After a while, the bearing seal leaks and water gets in there, seizing up the wash motor. You could replace just the wash motor but, in my vast and awesome experience, it’s worth the few extra shekels to replace the entire motor pump assembly. That way, you’re getting a whole new impeller, macerator, and pump volutes, which can trap all kinda ca-ca. And replacing the motor-pump assembly is easier than replacing just the wash motor since you have to remove the motor-pump assembly in either case. It’s just plug n’ chug; easy job, about two mugs on the world-famous SUDS-o-meter.

This post has all the information you need to fix that puppy. First thang, come git you a new motor-pump assembly:

motor-pump assembly for a whirlpool-built dishwasher

Now, on to the destructions. Here’s a printed how-to on this surgical procedure from Whirlpool Corporation…

Whirlpool Dishwasher Motor-Pump Assembly Replacement

… or, for my grasshoppers who prefer a more cinematic experience, you may wish to watch the Samurai in action as he replaces the entire motor-pump assembly in less than four minutes, a world-record!

The only thing I didn’t show in the video was the pull tabs that hold the motor-pump assembly in place. That’s ‘cuz I’s moving so fast that it woulda just been a blur anyway. But here’s a still shot that shows what they look like and explains a bit about ’em. Click the pic for the larger view.

Whirlpool-built Dishwasher Motor-Pump Assembly Retaining Clips

To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.

GE Arctica or Profile Refrigerator with Electronics Controls: DOA and Warming Up

This troubleshooting flowchart for GE Arctica and Profile refrigerators with electronic controls, PSS and GSS models, will hepya hone in on the problem.  I can tell you this, though: 90% of the time, this problem is caused by a bad mutha board– that’s the control board that lives in a cubby hole in the back of the box; here’s the part link.

GE Profile Refrigerator Troubleshooting Chart
(Click for larger view.)


mutha board for GE refrigerators


To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

How to Enter Service/Diagnostic Mode in the Asko W640 and W660 Washing Machines

If you have an Asko W640 or W660 front loader that’s acting flakey, one of the first things you’ll want to do is put it into diagnostic mode. This will let you test various functions such as the drain pump and drive motor and other sensors and functions in the machine. You won’t find this in your owner’s manual though they really should include it. What possible harm could it do? But the Samurai’s gotcha covered. Go git ’em!

Asko W640 and W660 Service Test

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.