The Samurai Between Service Calls
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Author Archives: Samurai Appliance Repair Man
The Samurai, Sam, and Ducks
Samurai on the Job: Every Appliance Repair Man’s Nightmare
Live Help Update
I was online earlier this morning doing live help and then had to go do some real work. When I returned, I realized that I had left the status to “online” even though I wasn’t here. So if you clicked for live help, you’d wait and wait and no one would ever come online. Hey, I’ve committed far worse infractions and you’ll be just fine, so chill out.
But I really will be online for live help this evening. Later, dude.
Samurai on the Job: Canoeing at Little Lake Sunapee
New Repair Photos at the Appliantology Group
Uploaded a bunch of new repair photos in the washer repair photo gallery at the Appliantology group. Check ’em out.
Samurai on the Job: Amana Model SXDE25JP SxS Refrigerator
Forum Update
The repair forum at the Appliantology group is back up and open for bidness. Many thanks to my good friend, Moostafa, for nourishing my precious grasshoppers with his own special brand of appliance wisdom in his repair forum.
Also uploaded new pics in the refrigerator and dryer repair photo galleries. Check ’em out.
Mailbag: Fridge Still Warm After Replacing a Bunch of Parts
Judy Haughney wrote:
We own a Hotpoint side-by side refrigerator. We have been having problems with the refrigerator and freezer not stying cold. Currently both are only cold on the bottom???? We have already replaced the heater coils, thermostat, defrost timer. What else could be wrong? We cannot turn on the water to the icemaker/water as the inside of the freezer freezes up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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In the Shotgun School of Appliance Repair, students are taught to change parts because they might be bad, not because they are proven to be bad.
Now compare this to the enlightened teachings of the Samurai School of Appliantology where students are taught the cardinal rule of appliance repair: never change a part unless you can prove that the part is bad.
Let’s take a look at Judy’s refrigerator repair challenge. I’ll bet you a six pack of Bud Light that she didn’t use her ohm meter and do a continuity test on the defrost heater (what she’s calling the “heater coils”). Same bet with the cold control (what Judy is calling the “thermostat”) and the defrost timer. All these parts were probably never bad to begin with!
So what’s the problem with Judy’s fridge? The clue lies in her statement that both the freezer and fresh food compartments “are only cold at the bottom.” This tells me the air is not getting blown around. First thing I’d look for in this fridge is a bad evaporator fan motor (that’s the one in the freezer). Could even be a bad door switch preventing the fan motor from running. Judy should check this and verify the bad component with her meter before buying new parts here.
Forum Update
The repair forum at the Appliantology group is currently down for maintenance. In the meantime, my dear friend, Moostafa, has graciously agreed to assist all my grasshoppers seeking appliance repair help in his very fine appliance repair forum. Allahu Akbar!
Mailbag: Twin Toaster Tribulations
Damon wrote:
Toaster pull down lever will not stay in the the hold position too begain toasting. What could be the reason this happens? Thank you for your time.
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JIM ZAGORITES wrote:
looking for someone to repair a fourslice toaster..my problem is that it is a built-in toaster and i can not even find a new one to stick into the hole in my kitchen wall…so i’d like to ship it to someone that could re-do the heating elements–one is broken–i can see that–and the other one still works but you have to redo the the toast to get it dark—-so if there is anyway you can help or put me on the right trail–i can get my wife off my back!!!!!—————–please reply————————-Z-man——–
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Lots of good information on toaster repair for both of you guys in this thread from Moostafa’s Mecca of Appliance Repair. Check it out, yo.
Mailbag: Accessing the Lid Switch on a Whirlpool/Kenmore Direct Drive Washer
Charles A. Cola wrote:
How do I gain access to the lid switch on my Kenmore Washer Model number 110.82992110 in order to replace it?
Regards,
Charles_______________________________
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Good question, thanks for asking! To gain access to the lid switch on this washer, you’ll need to remove the washer cabinet shroud.
With the washer cabinet removed, you have easy access to the lid switch (note: that’a typical lid switch used in these washers but there are several variations on that theme– use your model number to make sure you order the right one). You may find that the actuator lever is broken. If the actuating lever looks ok, then you should use your ohm meter to check the continuity of the lid switch. Many times, if the switch is bad, it will no longer make a clicking sound when you actuate it. Your lid switch can be replaced using one of the kits below, most likely the older style. But you can easily confirm this by feasting your Vulcan squinties on your washer’s lid switch.
Older-style Lid Switch
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Newer-style Lid Switch
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To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Mailbag: Discharging and Testing a Capacitor
Len wrote:
1. how can I discharge a large capacitor (as in in microwave or A/C)?
2. How can I test if it is OK?thanks
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The ancient and mystical technique for discharging a large-size or high voltage capacitor, such as a microwave oven capacitor or the motor start capacitor in a central air conditioning condensing unit, is illustrated here.
To test the capacitor, first make sure it’s discharged, as described above. If it ain’t, then you’re gonna ruin a perfectly good meter and you may shock your buns off, too. Using your meter, a good capacitor will test like this and a bad capacitor will test like this.
Now, grasshopper, go ye forth and conquer!
Mailbag: Appliance Service Ripoff Update
Thought y’all might be interested in this update that Rebecca sent me on the outcome of her washer repair ripoff dilemma:
rebecca wrote:
Hi there! Thanks for your reply.
In response to your post, I called Sears and spent another 2 or so hours on the phone with various (surly) people in a number of departments. I finally reached someone reasonable and had the opportunity to explain this whole fiasco. Long story short, we will not be charged for the parts – including the one we already paid for! Big shout out to the nice lady at Sears who finally listened to us and straightened out this whole fiasco. Sears has been redeemed.
Anway, thanks a million for your post!
In my not-so-humble opinion, Sears hasn’t redeemed anything! You should never have had to go through such an ordeal to get the service you hired them to do. 
The Sears tech should never have charged you for the bogus repair in the first place. If he screwed up, or needed to order a different part, or was simply confused, he should have told you that up front and assured you that he was going to make it right.
I’m glad you stuck to your guns! 
Samurai and Rebecca: 1, Sears: 0. BOOYAH! 
Mailbag: Preventing Mold and Mildew in Basement Carpet
Michele wrote:
Hi There,
Right now we are finishing our basement and we hired a contractor to do the job. They do all the phyisical work, but there are some decisions we need to make. We live in Virginia and constant rain has made us very aware of flooding, mold and mildew. The basement currently has a cement floor but we would like to put down carpet for obvious reasons. What can be done to keep mildew and mold to a minimum once the carpet is laid down? Are there special mattings or mold-resistant paddings that can be laid underneath the carpet? I appreciate any help you can give me.
Thanks
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The first line of defense for any mold and mildew prevention program is to make sure you have a dehumidifier installed and running in your basement. This will reduce the humidity in the basement and make the environment less hospitable to unwanted little nasties that can wreak havoc on carpet, wood, etc.
Next, I recommend using an air purifier which features both phyotohydroionization and electron generation, which work together to quietly and safely clean up to 3,000 square feet of air. The only product I know of that offers both of these features is the AirSource 3000. In scientific studies, the AirSource 3000 reduced mold and yeast counts by an average of 94% over a six-day period and bacteria counts were reduced by an average of 95%. We use two in our house: one for the upstair living area and in the basement (along with a dehumidifier). Since using the AirSource 3000, we have never had a mold, mildew or odor problem and allergic symptoms from pollen and pet dander disappeared. It’s a good investment for the health of any home. Learn more about the AirSource 3000 and buy yours today here.