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Monday, October 25, 2004
I had the opportunity to work on a Fisher & Paykel DD602 dishdrawer a couple days ago. By the way, I'm a big fan of Fisher & Paykel equipment--if you ever have the opportunity to work on one, you'll see why. The engineering is elegant in its simplicity. Well-engineered equipment is actually much easier to work on because they've designed serviceability into the product.
Anyway, the problem with this particular dishdrawer was that the top drawer (with an 11 minute wash) was giving an F1 error code after the initial rinse, about five minutes into the cycle. The F1 code indicates an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose.
So, I put the dishdrawer into diagnostic mode and tested the fill and pumpout functions--everything was peachy. I ran the top drawer in a normal wash cycle and, sho 'nuff, the drawer faulted out on F1 after the first rinse. Well, Houston, we had a problem and it was time for the Samurai to break open a can of whup-ass on this dishdrawer. First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer, like ahso:
With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gookus. None found--my quest continued.
The next step to remove the botton drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the botton cover panel removed:
With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms. All this to expose the flood switch, shown on the left-hand side of the bottom panel in the picture below:.
After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.
I had a flash-back to my Navy days and heard Petty Officer (AT1) Crowe's voice in my head, "Here, take this ruby red eraser and clean off them contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. Good to go, Sailor." You gotta understand, Petty Officer Crowe was my technical guru in the Navy--he taught me many of the practical and theoretical troubleshooting skills that I still use today.
So I cleaned the contacts as instructed by Petty Officer Crowe's mental image in my brain and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.
Good to go, Sailor.
Hello, how did you remove the panel in the front? I was not able to remove mine.
You remove the front panel by removing two "pins". There is one on each side of the drawer, and they are at the bottom and circular with a recessed tab - like an inverted slotted screw.
Samurai ARM, thanks for the dishdrawer pages.
These washers seem to have a bad reputation for flooding and maitenance - but I think that this washer is well designed and easy to pick through.
Fisher Paykel Repair service wanted. Can anyone refer me to a knowledgeable and fair repairman in the Los Angeles are for my 603 Dishdrawer?
Great site which helped me understand what the problem was, how it happened and how I fixed it. I got the F1 code which was caused by a tray put in the top of the draw to be washed by my son. This however allowed water to spill over the back of the draw and into the base of the unit. Well I looked at the schematic of how to pull the unit apart and thought there must be an easier way. With the lower draw open you can see into the base of the unit and with the use of a torch (flashlight) you will see water in the base of the unit which was the cause the fault in my case. To eliminate the water I used a towel placed in the base to remove the initial puddle and a hairdryer to evaporate the remaining water. It took about 15 minutes to get all the water out. I switched the machine back on and it is now working fine. So for those of you that do not have the mechanical aptitude I suggest this method but apply common sense. Switch the Dishwasher off at the wall outlet first to avoid electric shock and keep the hair dryer out of the water. You could direct a fan heater into the gap to achieve the same but it may take a little longer than the direct method. I hope this helps someone out there.
we followed your insturctions and put our machine back together after drying it out, with a hair dryer and rags. but upon starting it again it came up f1 to our dismay.
If you cleaned the switch contacts as I said in my instructions and you're still getting the F1, then you need to replace the float switch. If you need more help, come to the Samurai School of Appliantology.
my mother just had her F & P dishwashers replaced (both) not due to the problem she was having but because of small strip of rust on the front inside edge of the drawers. I have the same dishwashers...first generation about 5-6 years old. have you heard of the replacment program? I'd like to have mine replaced before this program runs out.
Thank you soooo much !!
I just finished using my wet/dry vacuum to remove the water from the lower pan and 15 minutes later the F1 is gone and we are up and running
mate ur a winner. it works good as now. just followed the simple instructions and away we go. peice of cake. these dishwashers are real awesome aye, like we never had any problems with them. The reason why the F1 fault came up is that we just brought a new waste disposal unit, but didnt puncture the dishwasher whole. so it was our fault, and i guess this is just a super duper design which prevents water getting everywhere.
Thanks Samurai Repair Guy! What a great site. I wish I knew how to take the bottom drawer out so I could try an eraser on the flood switch contacts--but I don't know how. I'm waiting out an F1 on the F&P DD. It's completely dry in the pan, but one comment on the Aussie site indicated the problem could be humidity in the flood switch. It's the eve of Christmas eve, with family arriving for big dinner tomorrow. WOuld be delightful to wake up to a functional DD--no service available for a few days. It's drawers are open, with fan blowing into the works to try the trick. I'll let you know...
the latest rev(2005), dd603 uses (i think) a resistive 'dip' off the main power board ... if you don't get to them quick and dry them out, they corrode ... game over ... F1's all the time
From Anonymous at 04:38
I own a Fisher Paykel DD602 dishwasher which only has one drawer working. The problem is in the LCD controller and after having (3) controllers installed the problem is still there. The background color of my original controlled is light green (chartreuse) while the background color on each of the (3) replacement controllers has been orange. We have switched controllers from the operational drawer to the inoperational one and it works fine. I am at a loss (and slowly getting fed up with Fisher Paykel). Can anyone help?
GREAT SITE!!! Im happy to have found this site & all the tips from others as well for my dishwasher. I thought it was dead & was ready to kick it, Im going to try the shop vac now..lol mihgt be cheaper than kicking it huh..lol
Hey, mucho domos to all who posted a word-up about this site. Glad it helped!
Can you tell me what the problem is if BOTH drawers are flashing F1? It started after I had run the top drawer and I awoke to beeping and F1's on both. I had to unplug it to stop. Help?? I can't afford to call them to fix it again. I'm so sorry I bought these. I have to call in a repair at least once a year and it's always $150.00! Help Help!
Could you tell me how do you pull the drawers out? First I noticed that both drawers were beeping and flashing F1. With a flashlight I saw a puddle of water on the bottom around the flood switch. I removed all the moisture using a towel and a hairdryer and everything was fine again. I then did a test run on the top unit and stopped it after a minute or so and allowed the water to drain. Few seconds later, beeping and F1 flashing started again on both units. After unplugging the power, I saw somthing shocking behind the top drawer - the water supply hose was disconnected in the middle (from a joint) and flooded the panel between the top and bottom units. We've had our 603 for almost 5 years and this is the first trouble we encountered. Thanks for your help.
To remove the drawers, you first need to remove the pins on each side, just behind the front panel, at the bottom. You'll see two circles with a raised ridge in them. Rotate the ridge vertically and pull to remove.
The previous comment about turning the side pins to remove the drawer is NOT correct, at least not for 603! Those pins are to remove the FRONT PANEL, not the drawer. DO NOT turn the circle/pins anyway, they pull STRAIGHT OUT to remove and probably will break if turned. Drawers are removed by depressing the tab on each side (locacted BELOW the "circles") as shown in this picture and sliding the support guide back. Release tabs
Just to clear up any disinformation, the pins are used to hold the front panel on the DD603. It is also correct that the pins do not hold the drawer to the rails on the 603 as they do on the 602. This page from the DD603 Service Manual on these topics should clear up any confusion.
My DD603 top drawer has been leaking for sometime. We have replaced the lid, and both lid motors but still it leaks. Too much play in the lid? Is there an adjustment for the lid seal?
Scored extra points with the inlaws with this bit of info. I opened the panel at the back, just a couple of screws and put in a couple of towells. Removed the switch and cleaned it up. Works like a bought one. Thanks
I have the leak problem too. The bottom drawer leaks from the top. The seals look good. I'm assuming there must be some adjustments needed. Would love to get some advice before breaking down to buy a new one!
I have a different problem - my top drawer - dishes come out with gray film. I filled my jet-dry - still happening.
I have a dd603, the other night the top draw stopped during a wash cycle. The power to this draw was lost. The bottom draw wasn't on at the time and that is still working fine. I have swapped the LCD display and PCB board over to check they werenít faulty. The bottom draw was fine again, but the top draw is still dead. I then checked the PCB board at the bottom of the unit, it looks O.K, and I wanted to swap terminal plugs over to see if it made a difference but discovered the terminal plugs arenít interchangeable.
After leaky operation, I figured out we had mice chewing up the rubber seal. We took care of the mice, but now have a leaking rubber seal in the lid. One entire corner of the seal has been chewed out.
Thank you so much for this article! Much appreciated.
I have a f&P dishwasher (2 draws). The other day it made a humming sound and showed F1 (spanner). I unplugged it, next day it worked however then it tripped main power source. Plus the top draw is now hard to close. Do I need to change a fuse and where do I purchase it from?
This is a great site. I have a F&P Double DishDrawer. The top drawer is having a problem with the roof lowering. After reading this site, I realize that the problem is with a broken actuator and I have ordered a new one. They recommend that I replace both of them. Can you give me some instructions on how to replace this part?
When I run the bottom drawer dirty water leaks into the top drawer. Is there a valve that may be clogged causing this internal leak. I also have a F1 fault which I think is not related to the above problem and thanks to the info on this page I am digging into right now. There is water setting in the bottom pan, I just have to determine where it is coming from. Many Thanks!
Does anyone have up to date pictures of the DD605SS. I am having difficulty locating the flood switch? Does anyone have a service manual for this model F&P refuse to sell these.
Huge THANK YOU!! My husband used liquid dish soap last night and we awoke with horror to F1 beeps from both drawers - and 50 people coming tonight for a holiday dinner party!! Found this FABULOUS website, which made me smile and gave me understanding and direction - I got out the towels and hairdryer and in half hour we were back in operation. Disaster averted!!
I replaced the main board, but also need to replace the lcd controller in a DD603. How do I get it out?
I have a single drawer DD603. During the cycle it pauses frequently and needs restarting. No fault codes are shown. Any ideas?
I was getting an F1 error on both draws of my DD602. Using all the great info from this site, I was able to remove the bottom draw dry up the water around the float switch and get it going again.
The last line of my previous comment should read
I replaced the drain hose on my 602 which had a visible crack where the arm meets the bottom of the dish drawer. It was still leaking so I checked the tube that seals it shut on the upper lid. I noticed it had a crack in it just by running my hand along it so I replaced the lid assembly which was pretty easy after you remove the draw. $100 dollars later in parts and it is fixed.
Hey... I fixed it! Had a F1 error. I think I overloaded the top drawer and water got into the base an triggered the flood switch. Took the bottom drawer cover off first then took the whole drawer out and gently manuevered it to where I could get into the bottom of the unit. Tool a towel and dried up the visible water. A few paper towels to get into and under tight spaces. Took a blow dryer (as suggested in another blog) and let it run in the base for about 10 minutes. No visible signs of water so i put it back together and it worked. Now I can cancel that service repair order!
Grasshopper, I need your help!!! If you help me, I will let you snatch the pearl from my palm!
Great posts and great site! Our F! code came about because the garbage disposal needed to be run. Instead of taking out the drawers, I just opened the bottom drawer far enough to get a rag into the bottom pan of the dishwasher. Once I rung out the rag 10xs or so, I turned the power back on, and the F1 code was gone! The dishwasher is working great again!
thank you from Australia it worked for me too
Thanks mate, you're a legend!
Great advice. I followed your instructions and now it works beautifully. Thanks so much!
I am your gracious host, Samurai Appliance Repair Man.
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