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Sunday, February 27, 2005
kenmore front-loading wrote:
Fun fact to know and tell: we've had this same washer (Gibson brand, same manufacturer, Frigidaire) for seven years and have never had a mold or smell problem of any kind. In fact, this washer has been trouble-free and we're a family of five, running it every day, sometimes three times in a day. No problems. Zero, zip, nada. We also leave the door wide open between uses so the washer can dry out.
Now, learn some of the Samurai's personal hygienic practices. I always use bleach on my skivvies (boxer shorts and white undershirts). It's a habit left over from my Navy days. If you're not bleaching your skivvies, you're wearing poopie germs on all your clothes and you are a dirty man. Remind me never to shake your hand if I ever meet you.
Here, now, I present Samurai's 14th Law of Appliance Repair: Nothing kills like chlorine.
Bleach: it's what's for dinner.
our frigidaire front load is 4 years old and now has a banging sound when going into the spin cycle. i checked the sprocket and bearing and they seem okay. i had the belt off to do the test. someone else thinks it could be a broken tub support but i have not been able to check at this time. any suggestions? email@example.com
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I have a Kenmore Front-Loader and had a smell as descrbd. I took out the soap dispenser (depress the tab on the left side of the dispenser. The entire interior was black over the area of the fabric softener dispenser. The dispenser itself was also black at the back (where I couldn't see if it was not completely out of the machine. Bleach, qtips, a toothbrush and2 hours later, it's clean. No smell. I now remove the dispenser when I'm not using the machine for a while.
Back to the banging sound in the Kenmore Front Loading washers! My pulley fits on quite good and tight. I've taken the whole thing apart and the bearings in the back shell sit fine, rotate fine and are very secure. (AND NO LEAKING WATER OR RUST IN THEM THANK GOD!) The problem is when the pulley is put back on the drive shaft and everything is bolted back together there is still some play. Not play from the pulley wheel being loose on the drive shaft. Play from the whole unit. If you push in and out on the pulley there is a couple of milimeters of play. It's like the pulley isn't holding the metal tub snug against the bearings. And voila I get a wicked racket during spin cycle. I've almost overtightened the bolt and washer that attaches the pulley wheel in order to get rid of this play but alas tightening doesn't help.
I also have a front loader...after 2 years I noticed black oil looking stains...I found there was black sludge in the rubber door gasket...after using a lot of cleaner and several wash cloths I think all the sludge is gone....still getting a few black stains so I am going to try the dispenser fix now.
I also have a mold problem. My front load washer is a Kenmore HE3. Two repairmen and several store personell told me it was a bad design. I ran bleach through the machine, vinegar, used the HE soap, still had the problem. Sears gave me a full refund and replaced the machine. I would suggest you contact the store manager about this issue. Leaving the door open (as they told me to do) could result in a child being suffocated. I refuse to leave the door open. Plus, why should we have to do that?
Hey, Mr. Eyemntrouble, you're not even talking about the same washer as the rest of us. This entire post is about the Frigidaire-built front loader (also sold under the Kenmore label). The Kenmore HE3 washer is built by Whirlpool-- whole different animal. Save your whining for the right post.
Thank you, Samurai for the last post. Maybe Mr. Eyemntrouble bought a lemon and didn't purchase the Sears master protection agreement (that would replace his lemon) so now he's stuck with a piece of junk (??) I own an HE3T washer that works great (and yes, I do leave the door open after the wash cycle is complete so it can air out...just makes sense to do this on ALL front load washers because (by design) they always leave some standing water under the basket)...
As eyemntrouble comments, leaving the door open is very dangerous. Unbeknowst to me, a young kitten climbed into our Front Load Kenmore while I went to retrieve additional items to add to the clothes already loaded. I did not know she was in there until the wash was complete/ As you can imagine, this is a horrible way to lose a pet.
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F/dU Door Unlock Error
what ring ;P
I bought a Kenmore/Frigidaire around 1999-2000. It had a d.c. brush-type (series wound) motor. I also recommended it to my ex, both brothers, and a friend. My ex had two motors replaced (under warranty) and a bad tub bearing, whereupon she got rid of it. One brother developed a bad tub bearing (he has the a.c. motor). Mine just developed a bad tub bearing. I've since read that this is a common problem with these. I know others who have had great luck with them. I'm about to get a Duet or a Kenmore Elite He3 or 4 (by Whirlpool).
Somewhere in the 1999 to 2000 vintage, Friggidaire had to go screw up a perfectly good machine by making some modification to the drum bearing so they could save $0.12 per unit in manufacturing cost. The units built prior to and since this time frame have been rugged, well-perfomring machines. I have no documentation to prove this, just my field experience as technician in people's homes.
The Duet is a nice machine but is not a panacea-- it has it's own achilles heel which is starting to rear its ugly head these days: drum bearing problems, rear pulley problems, and lots of control board problems.
We have a Kenmore Elite He3 washer and are now going on our 3rd tub boot (bellow). This flexible piece seems an easy break item from wear/fatigue or washed item snagging and ripping (metal pieces such as buckles, zippers). Replacement cost for parts (front clamp, back clamp, boot/bellow) is about $100-$130, if replaced via service call is $250-$300. As a data point we have a family of 7 and have had the machine for about 3 years. A neighbor with the same machine has also experienced boot failure, I'm surprised to hear all the glowing reports on this machine with no mention of this weak point.
Quick question about the issue that J-pasik raises. We recently moved and noticed a small divot taken out of the boot which is causing the washer to leak under the door. Does anyone know of a product that I could use to fill the gap that would not compromise the seal? I tried a 2 part epoxy, but it hardened and doesn't keep the seal intact. Am I stuck buying a new boot or can someone recomend a product?
I have a small Maytag Front Loader and I get the mildew smell sometimes, and that's why I found this awesome blog. (book marking it now)My 2 cents: My washer is only 2 years old, had a problem with the mildew smell. I have been guilty of leaving clothes in the washer and then the clothes smell too, and the smell won't come out of the clothes, towels especially. Here's what I have done to combat this...first wash I run, I do the whites and bomb them with bleach. Second load do the "kitchen/garage towels" and bomb them with bleach. I have decided to be more diligent about NOT leaving clothes in the washer, I can't stand mildew smell, and I am going to try taking out the detergent drawer and cleaning it. I can't leave the door open, I have a kitten and the horror stories above freaked me out. Not only that, my townhouse was designed flawed with the washer closet in the dining room and I can't leave the door open since it looks bad and sometimes there's the freaking smell of mildew.
i never seen a washer sold with mildew, if you get it, its because you are growning it. take away what it likes and it leaves :)
I have an frontloading Kenmore bought in March of 2007. We just started having the musty, mildew smell. Just FYI, most front loaders have a monthly maintenance cycle that you are supposed to run. I have done it and still the smell is slightly there.
I have a Kenmore HE 3 Elite washing machine that I purchased 2 yrs ago. I just moved to a new location at after I started my washing machine at normal cycle for 45 minutes it stopped at 23 minutes with an error code of H F. Repeated attempts to start the washing machine produced the exact same results and the H F message. What does this mean?
Lia, I haven't had your specific trouble with My HE 3 washer, but I thought I might be able to help you out. Do an internet search on HE3 and the error code and you'll come up with more boards with answers to your specific problem. I found a great thread on the Kenmore HE series washer problems on applianceblog dot com under appliance blog forums>appliance repair talk>washer>Sears Kenmore. I hope this helps!
We bougt our Frigidaire Gallery model# FTW445GES1 washer on 09/04/1997 from Sears. It was $799.99 at that time.
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