The repair man (not a Samurai that is for shure) came, changed the thermcouple and left me with a charge of $150
The problem was that it stared to miss the Baking target (400F) and we did not have any F1 or otherwise codes in the display.
His wisdom -God help the poor man with it- tells that it is either the microcontroller or the thermocoupler. He opted for the thermcoupler but guess what, the temperature is still 100F off the target and I feel f*cket up down $150.
What do you think?
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I think you need a vocabulary course so you can expand your runtish repertoire of nicknames. For example, instead of your sophomoric and nebulous “F*CKED CUSTOMER,” you could use any one of the following appellations to more accurately describe yourself:
- HORNSWAGGLED MUTTONHEAD
- SWINDLED SUCKER
- BAMBOOZLED BONEHEAD
- CHEATED CHUMP
- DEFRAUDED DUNDERHEAD
You get the idea. I also think all the above monikers apply if you let your non-Samurai repair man get away with cheating you like that. Have you called him back out to finish what you hired him to do? If he had to guess about whether or not the sensor was bad, then he really is a bozo who lacks fundamental appliance knowledge that any competent technician should know. And he should eat the fee he already charged you for the sensor replacement.
Oven temperature sensors can be tested with your ohm meter to determine whether or not they’re bad. This is basic stuff–no guess work involved here.
If the sensor tests ok, then turn your attention to the ERC. On most ERC’s, you can calibrate the cooking temp–your user’s manual will have the specific procedure for your range. For example, one common procedure used by the manufacturers is to punch in a temp of 350ºF and then press and hold the Bake key for 5 seconds, after which you can use the up and down arrow keys to adjust the bake temp up or down. Your range may be different but the calibration procedure will be in your user’s manual. If the ERC won’t calibrate satisfactorily, then replace the ERC.
Go git ’em!
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