Kenmore HE4t Washer Error messages F11 and Fdl

by Samurai Appliance Repair Man on March 22, 2006

in Washer Repair

This washer was made by Whirlpool, so the following tidbits also apply to the Whirlpool Duet washer. But, since it has a Kenmore label slapped on it, you’ll have to deal with Sears if this is a warranty issue– this is a good thang because you’ll learn what good service is by experiencing really crappy service.

F11

Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.

F DL

A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try to lock it six times before displaying the error code.

This is from the tech sheet found under the top of the washer… or you can borrow mine, just be sure to return it. ;)

Thanks to Pegi for posting this in the repair forum.

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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

kevintrisha May 24, 2006 at 2:09 am

Well my friends, I found out how to fix mine and would like to pass the information on to others. Hopefully it helps you. First, UNPLUG THE WASHER. I started by removing the three security screws from the top back of the washer. (You can get a security screw kit with dozens of security bits from Harbor Freight for cheap.) After removing the top, I carefully (using a small flat blade screwdriver) pryed on the clips to free up the white box located on the top and back inside the machine. (All the wires go into this). I then carefully rotated the white box so that I could access the lid and carefully pryed off the lid using a screwdriver. I used a magic marker and marked all of the wire plugs and the box holes so I could put them back where I found them later. (No guessing). After removing all the wire plugs, there are three clips holding the Electronic Control Board to the inside of the white box. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE CONTROL BOARD. The board should come right out and you can take it to your work bench. Now the easy part……I wrote down the relay numbers from all of the relays. There should be five of them. Two are white and three are black. The white ones have five pins attached to the board and the black ones have six pins attached to the board. All of my relays were made by OMRON. I googled the OMRON relay numbers and found a full spec sheet in .pdf form. I printed both spec forms which had all the information about the relays. (voltages, size, etc.) I took the board and the spec sheets to my local electronics store (NOT RADIO SHACK, THEY HAD NOTHING)…Im talking about a true electronics store that had resisters, transistors, capacitors and stuff. I showed the guy my sheet and the board and he looked it up and found a match for all of the relays, but was made by a different brand. All of mine were the same except the white relays had a 12 amp rating instead of the 10 amp rating. (Better for me.) I came home and carefully de-soldered the relays off and resoldered the new ones on. (careful, some of the relay pins are close together, just have patience.) Three of my relays were see through…..(cool) I could now watch them as they switched. I clipped the board back into the white box, attached all the wires and I have been running for three weeks without a single problem. If you do not like to solder, have someone help you…you will have save $$$$$$$. Best Regards, Kevin
kevintrisha@comcast.net

robski12 November 4, 2010 at 4:06 pm

I had been fighting this problem for almost a year. Thank you so much for the info. I has able to order the relays online for $2 each. I paid $20 for 2day air delivery. I paid the guy at the local tv repair/electronic shop $40. All together $70! I had check on $ on the control board…$220. For anyone looking for the relays you can find the at mouser.com The relay that you need are 3(quantity) part # 653-1a-e-dc12 and 2(quantity) part # 653-g5le-1-vddc12. Thanks for the posts!

Samurai Appliance Repair Man May 24, 2006 at 8:21 am

Hey, Kevin, thanks for taking the time to post your repair story. I’m sure it’ll help someone. 8)

wubbs77 March 25, 2007 at 8:20 pm

My machine is actually a kenmore elite oasis…but I was having a very similar problem. The door latch just wasn’t working. I took the top off the machine, removed the switch unit, and manually pried the latch in and out a few times until it started working smoothly. Put everything back together, and its worked for 10 + loads so far. I think something just got gummed up in there mechanically and it wasn’t able to throw the latch. Whether this proves to be a permanent solution remains to be seen, but it only took about 20 minutes of monkeying around to get it working again!

mysteryonion April 24, 2007 at 12:01 pm

Hey thanks “Kevin” for the information! After over a year of trick and quick remedies to coax our Duet to continue working it died or refuse to fall for any of the trick. You’ve inspired me to do the proper fix.

I did the following job on it the CCU that is. An Invite to all for info of what I had to do with our Duet at this link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mysteryonionpatch/471156850/

Removed board, desoldered relays, clean the contact inside relay, switch places, resoldered, and four loads and no more tricks… Thats 4 big loads with plenty of weight too and at full speed spin. I’m sure I’ll have to replace the relays at some point in future, but I’ll not have to thump and shim and shake or curse the thing again.

THANK YOU!!!

NO THANKS to whirlpool Cu$tomer di$-$ervice!

bbc3 December 15, 2012 at 10:31 pm

This site & you guys ROCK.>>!

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