Stove Troubleshooting and Repair Manual

• Ok, so maybe the element is burned out. "Oh, I know the element is burned out because it’s not getting hot." Yes, Virginia, and a bad element is the only possible explanation for there being no heat, isn’t it? How ‘bout we at least do a simple continuity check on the element? A good element will read between 20 to 30 ohms. If the element shows the proper resistance, what else could be wrong? Well, could be a bad receptacle or a bad infinite switch.
• Ok, so it could be a bad element receptacle after all. On plug-in type elements, pull out the element and inspect the receptacle and element plug ends. If you see lots of charring or pitting, replace the receptacle and the element.
• The infinite switch could be fried (and frequently is, *gasp*!). Test for 240 volts AC at the two terminals going to the element when the switch is turned on. Yes, Grasshoppah, you’ll need to use your meter and these are hot tests, meaning that voltage and amperage are present and could fry yo’ ace.

• Ain’t but one thang, yo: the infinite switch is toast. (Would you like fries with that?)

• Spark module is fried. Make sure the ignitor is getting 120v. Ensure valve switch is also sending 120v signal to begin ignition. If you don’t hear clicking sounds anywhere in the range, the spark module is toast.
• One of the valve switches is fried. Test continuity.
• If ticking sound is intermittent or muffled or seems to alternate between burners, then the spark module is defective.
• A worn (leaky) ignition wire. The insulation on the ignition wire going to the electrode(s) can wear thin in spots causing the high voltage sparks to shunt to ground. You’ll usually hear muffled ticking noises in odd places in the range. Inspect spark wire for wear spots in outer sheath.
• Stove electrical supply receptacle is reverse wired (hot side is neutral and neutral side is hot). Rewire receptacle observing correct polarity.

• The burner valve is plum wore out.