Your Name: keith
Type of Appliance: Dryer
Brand: kenmore
Model Number: 110.70982990
Your Precious Words:
I get no flame, no valves clicking open and no glow on my ignitor. I found my thermal fuse was open, so need to get a new one of those, but I have been looking for a part you mentioned called the operating thermostat. I don’t have a schematic but do have an assembly diagram and I can’t fine that part anywhere. Can you give me a clue where I might fine it and check continuity?? thanks man, love your website. I visit you about every 5-7 years when my washer/dryer break.
Hi Keith,
Good job getting this far! Your particular model, the Whirlpool-built 27″ dryer with the lint filter in the door, uses a thermistor instead of an operating thermostat. This is actually becoming the norm for modern dryers as electronic control boards are increasingly used to control the dryer.
A thermistor works as the operating thermostat because its resistance changes with temperature. This change in resistance in read by the control board which then makes decisions about cycle time, powering up the heating elements, etc.
On the older versions of this same dryer, which did have an operating thermostat, it was located in the same exact place where the thermistor is now located in the new models, like yours.
The thermistor for your dryer is located on the blower housing, in front, below the drum. Here’s the part link to the thermistor with a 365-day return policy ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermistor/8577274/1181075?RCAID=24038
This video shows you how to get to it and replace it:
You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!
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The thermistor rarely fails. When it does, the machine gives you a fault code: E1 or E2.
Operating thermostats don’t often fail, either. Some technicians change them as a matter of habit (and $30.00) but in 8 years as a full-time appliance repair technician, I’ve had to go back on an overheating dryer twice. (I give a 1-year guarantee, so if it happens, I’d know.)
If the thermal fuse is blown, it’s almost always lint buildup in the lint screen box, or in the vent pipe, or both. After a thorough cleaning, use one of these each year and your thermal fuse will never fail again:
http://www.linteater.com/mini/
Excellent point and right on target with the info on the E1 / E2 error codes. Your comments have enriched this post, bromikl. Domo! 8)