Whirlpool: DU1050XTP, DU1100XTP, DU1101XTP, DU1145XTP, DU1148XTP, DUC600XTP, DUL240XTP, GU2400XTP, GU2500XTP, GU2548XTP, GU2600XTP, GU3200XTP;
KitchenAid: KUD x 01-6 (where “x” is any letter);
Kenmore: Whirlpool-built models.
All serial codes.
Whirlpool has issued a service bulletin on this problem. Seems the heater fault-detection circuit is buggy. The condition can also apply to a dishwasher that has had the electronic control replaced.
The cause of the problem is an insufficient rise in water temperature during a pre-set time period. The heater fault-detection program that was added to the electronic control is designed to shut down the dishwasher if the board-test for proper water temperature rise is not sufficient.
The dishwasher run cycle was modified to add 8 minutes 45 seconds of heat at the beginning of the main wash cycle. If the inlet water at the thermistor is below 110°F, the thermistor looks for a water rise of 4°F. If the inlet water is over 110°F, the test is for an increase of 2°F. If the temperature rise is below specifications, the unit will drain and the clean light will blink seven times.
The detection described above is ignored if the temperature is out of the normal temperature range of 64°F to 160°F during this heat period. This thermistor temperature test is not done to increase water temperature for better washability, but to only assure that the heater is functioning.
Proper incoming water temperatures should be between 120°F to 140°F.
You will need to identify possible causes of insufficient temperature rise. These causes may include checking the wiring to/failure of the control, the heating element, the thermistor, the inlet valve, door switch, motor or capacitor. Make sure that water is not siphoning during fill. Once the heater fault detection is triggered and the condition resolved, the electronic control must be reset by initiating a special diagnostic cycle. Use the Product Tech Sheet shipped with each dishwasher — you’ll find it behind the kickplates — to identify the correct cycle sequence. The rapid advance cycle will not properly reset the electronic control.
Does anyone have the sequence codes to reset the dishwasher
From the “Corrective Action” portion of the post above:
So, is the tech sheet for your dishwasher missing? On many models, this sequence will work: Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal. Press this key sequence within six seconds to activate service mode. Note: this does not work on all models, consult your tech sheet!
Thanks a lot dear Samurai for your dedicated work – the above info really helped. My comment (based on my 665.1073 d/w schematics) about the “buggy heater fault-detection circuit” mentioned above is that the bug is trivial – two door switches are used essentially in parallel and the poor mechanical design can leave one of the two switches open. If main switch is open –
the unit won’t start. If the secondary one is open – the above heater fault
will be detected. What I did with my d/w is: (1) I made sure both switches are OK; (2) bent the door latch bracket slightly downwards to ensure that both switches get engaged; (3) reset the unit through “rapid cycle” above.
For now it cured the problem…
Outstanding tip, nuke15; mondo domos for posting that! 8)
I am working on a similar problem, but now the dryer will not work.
The element is good, everything else works without any error codes.
How do you check the thermostat, and if that is ok is it worth changing the circuit board/elec panel knowing the past history of the whirlpool/kitchenaid/kenmore dishwashers.
Excellent. We were going to pay out 100’s of dollars for a new motor, but found this website, did the rapid cycle sequence and it works.
amess1, this page explains how to test a thermostat for continuity:
What’s your alternative to not doing the repair? Buy a new one? There are no good dishwashers made today, no, not one. They all suck.
Long time listener first time caller. I’m having the same problem as listed above blinks 7 times yadda yadda yadda. Problem is I have a Tall Tub which doesn’t have a kick plate per say. I tried removing the face panel , removed 6 torque head screws, but the panel did not easily come away and I’ve had bad luck trying to pry things loose in the past so I reckoned I should ask. The other problem is I don’t have a Heated Dry option which makes the key combo described a bit difficult to enter. Dishwashers only 13 months old and I’m no fan of extended warranties so any advice before I have to pull this thing out would be swell. Don’t have the model number in front of me but I’ll come back with it soon as I can.
I have been having a similar problem with a Whirlpool GU2600XTPQ3, in its second year so only cerain parts are warranty. Clean L.E.D. was flahing 7 times. Would fill with water to just below the heating element, but sprayer arm would not spin and water would not circulate.
I called Whirlpool and told to hit heated dry -sani rinse – heated dry – sani rinse . Tech just came out. While waiting for the tech, the L.E.D. clean light stopped flashing. I had attempted to run it several ways and cancelled when things didn’t cycle.
The tech listened to it fill and told me it needs a new pump. On being quizzed, he said he suspects something is in the pump. Pump is covered, but I pay 178 for labor. Pump is ordered and will be delivered to me. He will be back at end of month to install.
1. I think he was saying, and it was hard to understand him, that the hearing element is working but the lights were flashing becuase water was not being pumped through the machine. I think this makes sense, but wonder if it does to you folk.
2. If the problem is with the pump and if it has something in it, which he said he suspected, shouldn’t he have tried to clear it and isn’t that a fairly simple operation? I haven’t located the instructions for this model, but I am wondering if I should try to clear the pump?
See my latest post on this problem.
I just want to say thanks for helping me fix my 7 blinking light problem. Between my wife and me, we probably would have eventually worn out the control panel, and then had to call a serviceperson tomorrow. There was a metal spoon resting on the element and the stainless interior and I wonder if that created some kind of short, preventing the necessary 2 degree rise in temp. The reset code, heated dry,
normal, heated dry, normal, was in that video in your page.
Dear Samurai Appliance Repair Man:
I have a Whirlpool GU980SCGB3 likely made in late 2000. Has worked fine with no problems the last 6 years. Problem….quits during the early cycle of pre-rinse/pre-wash when on Normal.
Had Whirlpool Cert Repair out …said it would be a 300+ dollar job replacing electronic control. After paying the 59 dollar service call, I get my own new electronic board and installed it properly. No change. I then replaced the float switch. No change. I have made sure that I have good alignment on the door latch mechanism. No change. I have run Rapid Advance diagnostics until blue in the face.
Seems that once heated water is coming into the machine, it wants to kick out. After a while, it will cool down. I can then hit Cancel/Drain and it will clear out. So the motor/pump is functional.
You have talked about other whirlpool d/w that have a heater/thermostat issue regarding the water. What to you think we may have here?
I appreciate your work! Thank you, Randall
Your site is great! Thanks for the tips and help!