Author Archives: Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Powerball cleaning tablets are a Bozo No-No for dishwashers

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This just in from the appliance repair hotline, a special advisory against using Powerball cleaning tablets in Fisher-Paykel dishdrawers, also marketed in Ameedica under the Whirlpool and Kitchenaid brands:

Reports that a new type of dishwasher detergent tablet damaged switches in some dishwasher models has prompted the New Zealand Consumer Institute to order the tablet manufacturer to reimburse owners for repairs.

Reckitt Benckiser, maker of Finish PowerBall cleaning tablets, denied that the tablets are at fault, but agreed to cover repairs.

According to the Institute, the threestage tablets, which are inserted into the same compartments as granulated dishwashing detergents, create excessive foam in the tubs of dishwashers that eventually interfere with the operation of switches. DishDrawer units made by Fisher & Paykel are said to be especially prone to the problem.

PowerBall tablets are marketed worldwide under various brands, including Electrosol in North America. It’s not known if PowerBall tablets available in the U.S. have the same formulation as those sold in New Zealand. DishDrawer dishwashers are marketed in the U.S. under the Fisher & Paykel, Whirlpool and KitchenAid brands.

So, let that be a lesson to you!

And thanks to Master Appliantologist Pegi for posting this information in the repair forum.

Replacing a bake element in a GE oven… maybe

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Oven not getting hot and you’re thinking you need to replace the bake element? Well, for starters, how do you know the element is bad? Could be the function selector switch, a burnt wire, lots of things. And then there’s the question of how to replace the element. RandyC, a grasshopper in the repair forum, started to remove the element when it exploded! And then, to make his joy complete, the original problem wasn’t even the bake element–turned out to be the function selector switch! You can read more about Randy’s repair misadventure and ultimate triumph here.

Maytag, Amana, Jenn Air, and Magic Chef Range F1 Codes

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Here are some juicy pearls of appliantology wisdom from our friends at Maytag for understanding F1 fault codes. In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier. Here’s a simple explanation of what’s going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:

a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode or

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.

Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor gotsta be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn’t high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn’t happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you’re gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel –don’t spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.