One of the indications that the brake may need adjustment is if the brake squeals during last few seconds of spin just before the tub stops. The Brake is adjustable by using the thick or thin shim washer found in the thrust bearing kit.

Before we get into checking and adjusting the Brake, it would enhance your troubleshooting arsenal to know some basic katas of how this contraption works…

Transmission Operation

When the Drive Pulley rotates CLOCKWISE, the upper and lower cams are designed to nest together which allows the Drive Pulley to remain in position on the Drive Shaft. The Brake remains engaged and the Drive Pulley will turn the lower cam and drive the shaft to cause the Transmission to agitate.

When the Drive Pulley rotates COUNTERCLOCKWISE, the upper cam and pulley ride up the lower cam approximately 3/16 of an inch before the driving shoulders on the Pulley hub engage the “dogs” on the lower cam.

This causes the top of the Pulley hub to push against the spacer which compresses the Brake Spring and lifts the Brake Rotor and lining assembly off the Brake Stator. The Brake is disengaged and the Pulley will turn the lower cam and drive shaft to cause the Transmission to spin.

Determine Brake Rotor Condition

Watch the Spacer on the encapsulated Thrust Bearing. If the Spacer rotates with the Pulley, the Brake is functioning properly. If the Spacer stays stationary while rotating the Pulley to release the Brake, the Brake Rotor must be replaced.

To Check Brake Disengagement:

1. Manually rotate the Drive Pulley in a slow COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction until the Brake starts to release and the Transmission begins to turn.

2. Attempt to position the “Reference Cam Arrow” midway between the “Min Pulley Hub Reference” and the “Max Pulley Hub Reference” markers located on the Pulley.

If you can’t get the “Reference Cam Arrow” between the markers on the Pulley Hub, then you gotta adjust the Brake.

To Adjust Brake Disengagement:

1. If the position of the Cam Reference Arrow is less than the Min Pulley Hub reference mark, remove the standard (.062 thickness) Thrust Washer and replace it with a thinner (.032 thickness) Thrust Washer. Recheck disengagement 3 times to verify proper adjustment.

2. If the position of the Cam Reference Arrow is more than the Max Pulley Hub reference mark, add a (.032 thickness) Thrust Washer to the standard Thrust Washer. Recheck disengagement 3 times to verify proper adjustment.

If you need to add a thrust washer to make the brake adjust properly, it’s usually a good idea to replace the thrust bearing kit at the same time. It includes all the washers you need.

And here’s a step-by-step guide for replacing the thrust bearing, custom-made by a Samurai Chief Apprentice Appliantologist:

Maytag Atlantic Washer Thrust Bearing Replacement, An Illustrated Guide!

So you stuff a load of stinky skivvies in your Maytag Neptune washer, get it going and head over to your computer so you can check out the latest cool videos on the Samurai’s YouTube channel. You watch the videos– you laugh, you cry, they become a part of you and they’ve given your life new purpose and meaning that you never even dreamed was possible. Your newfound special purpose informs you to go check on the skivvies in the washer.

You find the washer full of water, stopped in mid-cycle and flashing some kind of weird code, like French, or something. Suddenly, you become aware of another pair of skivvies that needs to go in the washer.

First thing to do is stop and congratulate yourself for coming to the right website. Next, unclench them glutes and swallow that bile burning the back of your throat’cuz ol’ Samurai’s gonna hepya whup up on that ornery washer. Here’s the scoop:

El Problemo:

Current models will stop and flash the error code, “LR” in the display. If you have a model with an LCD display, it’ll show the error message, “Locked Rotor.” Older models won’t show a code, they’ll just stop mid-cycle or won’t re-start.

Model Numbers Affected:

MAH14PDAAL, MAH14PDAAQ, MAH14PDAAW, MAH14PDABL, MAH14PDABW, MAH14PDAEW, MAH14PDAGW, MAH14PDBAW, MAH14PDBEW, MAH14PDBGW, MAH14PDCBQ, MAH14PDCBW, MAH14PDDWW, MAH14PDSAW, MAH14PNAEW, MAH14PNAGW, MAH14PNAWW, MAH14PNBAW, MAH14PNBEW, MAH14PNBGW, MAH14PNSAW, MAH14PRAWW, MAH14PSAAW, MAH14PSAGW, MAH20PDA3W, MAH20PDAWQ, MAH20PDAWW, MAH20PDCXQ, MAH20PDCXW, MAH20PNAWW, MAH20PRAWW, MAH20PRDWW, MAH20PSAWW, MAH21PDA3W, MAH21PDAGW, MAH21PDAWQ, MAH21PDAWW, MAH21PDCXQ, MAH21PDCXW, MAH21PDD3W, MAH21PDDGW, MAH21PDDWQ, MAH21PDDWW, MAH21PDDXW, MAH21PNAGW, MAH21PNAWW, MAH21PNDGW, MAH21PNDWW, MAH21PRAWQ, MAH21PRAWW, MAH21PSAWW, MAH3000AAW, MAH3000AEW, MAH3000AGW, MAH3000AKW, MAH3000AWA, MAH3000AWQ, MAH3000AWW, MAH3000BGW, MAH4000AWQ, MAH4000AWW, MAH4000BWQ, MAH4000BWW, MAH5500AWW, MAH5500BWQ, MAH5500BWW, MAH55FLBWQ, MAH55FLBWW, MAH6500AWQ, MAH6500AWW, MAH7500AWQ, MAH7500AWW, MAH7550AAW, MAH7550AGW, MLE19PDAGW, MLE19PDAYW, MLE19PDAZW, MLE19PDCZQ, MLE19PDCZW, MLE19PNAUW, MLE19PNAYW, MLE19PRAYW, MLE19PRAZW, MLE2000AYW, MLE2000AZW, MLG19PDAEW, MLG19PDAGW, MLG19PDAWW, MLG19PDAXW, MLG19PDBGW, MLG19PDCXQ, MLG19PDCXW, MLG19PDSAW, MLG19PNAWW, MLG19PRAWW, MLG19PRAXW, MLG2000AWW, MLG2000AXW, MLG23MNAWW

What’s Going On?

There’s a bad connection in the neutral wire (the white one) that runs from the power cord to the Motor Control Board. This neutral wire is routed across the water inlet solenoid valve via a terminal connection on its way to the Motor Control Board where it ends in another terminal connection. The problem is basically a crappy crimping job anywhere along this neutral wire’s path from the power cord, through the water inlet valves, and finally ending at the Motor Control Board.

Whaddya Gotta Do?

Start at the point where the power cord wire enters the washer and locate the neutral (white) wire. Follow it throughout the machine– this is the fine art of wire chasing. Tug on each terminal of the white wire wherever it’s connected at a terminal or wire harness, such as the water valve solenoid, and make sure that the wire is in there goodntight. If it comes out in your hand when you tug on it then– ding-ding-ding!– we have a winner. You’ll need to apply some wire-working skills and get that wire securely re-connected. That’s beyond the scope of this article but we can hepya with that in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums.

Maytag has since changed this wire so that it by-passes the water solenoid valves and goes across the pump only, reducing the number of connections.

This little pearl of appliantological wisdom applies to Maytag’s later model, “new and improved” Neptune front load washers. They have model numbers like MAH6700AW*, MAH8700AW*, MAH9700AW*, MAL1800AX* (the “*” is a wild card character, like in a Google search, not part of the model number).

I like this machine. It’s German-built and you can almost tear the whole thing down with a #10 torx bit. Now, Whirlpool sells another front loader that also bears the name “Duet,” it’s the Duet Sport. The Sport is made in Mexico and, while it’s not a bad machine, it’s just not at the same level as its German big brother.

Here’s some basic anatomy and component locations:

(click for larger view)

And here’s a handy list of commonly replaced parts on this machine. For each component, I’ve also included some things that may indicate that part is bad. Notice the emphasis on the word, “may.” These are meant to point you in the right direction but you should still confirm the part is bad.

Awwite, grab ‘hold of those two squishy lumps at the base of your spine and let’s do the Two-Step Tango on this bad boy:

Step 1: Buy the new transmission

Step 2: Watch this instructive video

Nuff said!

Q: Undocumented error code? Does that mean it’s illegal?

A: No, but you’ll wish it was.

This refers to the Frigidaire Affinity front loading washers, example model number LTF2940EE0. The E6E error code that you may see on the display isn’t listed in the service manual or the tech sheet, like the one below:

Frigidaire LTF2940ES1 Tech Sheet

So, what does this mean? He IS the Kwisatz Haderach! Oops, sorry– had a Dune flashback, must be too much spicy food.

*Buuuuurrrp!* OK, I feel better now. Thanks for your concern. I’m feelin’ the love, yo.

One note on tech sheets before I get back into the nittiest of grittiest on this repair. Tech sheets are really handy things to have when you’re troubleshooting and indispensable for over-electronified appliances that flash weird codes and make space-age beeping noises. It has the error code listings, key sequence for entering service/diagnostic mode, schematics, and lots of other fixit goodies. I hate it when I’m on a service call and go to get the tech sheet only to find that some sleazeball had “borrowed” it on a previous service call. There’s a special place in Hell for parts changing monkeys who do this and you know who you are!

If you’ll be using the schematic or wiring diagram for troubleshooting, you should always use the specific tech sheet supplied with your washer, located behind the bottom kickplate. That’s because the wiring will vary slightly (just enough!) depending on the features built into the specific model you’re working on. The manufacturers will even say that in the service manual, which is intended to cover a family of models.

OK, OK, enough yada-yada. So, what’s the deal with the undocumented E6E error code in these machines? Ain’t but one thang, Hoss: bad interface control board. Come git you one:

What, you don’t believe me? Do you mock me, sir? Do YOU mock ME? OK, how ’bout this: if you buy the board here and replace it and that doesn’t fix your washer, you can return it for a full refund within 30 days, no hassles, no questions. Yeah, uh huh, who’s yer Daddy?