Author Archives: Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Speed Queen Dryer Blew Thermal Fuse and Now Thermostat

Manas wrote:

About 6 months ago I replaced the thermal fuse on my Speed queen Dryer. It seemed to fix the ‘no heat’ problem (the vent is clean). Recently, I have lost heat again, appears the the thermostat (p.# 62641) is bust (no continuity). This manifested by the heating taking longer and longer, to now being totally cold. Oh wise one, what does this trend indicate?

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Whenever a thermal fuse blows, I always check the vent. What am I checking for, just the presence of lint? Nay, nay, intrepid grasshopper, there is much more to good dryer venting than merely the absence of the flammable mixture of human skin, mites, and clothing fibers, a.k.a. dryer lint. How much more? Read and learn.

Best maintenance practices also dictate that whenever either the thermal fuse or the thermostat are found to be bad, that both parts are replaced at the same time to avoid exactly the situation you’re now in.

Happy Thanksgiving!

In this fifth Thanksgiving Day of the new millennium, I am filled with gratitude and thanks for cheating death another day. Life is the greatest gift of all and we tend to get so bogged down by the frustrations and minutia of day-to-day living that we lose sight of the bigger picture. That’s the really cool thing about Thanksgiving– regardless of your religion or personal philosophy, Thanksgiving is a day that calls each of us to step back from the tasks in our lives and to simply be grateful that we are alive. And it’s not even about being thankful for all the toys and crap we have in our lives, it’s about being thankful for Life itself and for that little spark of Life that infuses and animates the being of every living creature in the universe. As humans, we have a unique relationship with Life because we alone have the capacity to be grateful and thus enter into a unique and personal relationship with Life. And because we all share the same Life, regardless of our religion, ethnicity, or race, we are literally brothers and sisters.

My human brothers and sisters, let us lay aside our petty differences and earthly cares, even if only for this day, and recognize that we are all connected simply by virtue of being alive.

It is good to be here.

Whirlpool/KitchenAid Tall-tub Dishwashers Won’t Operate

Service pointer from Whirlpool on this problem.

Models affected: Whirlpool DU1050XTP, DU1100XTP, DU1101XTP, DU1145XTP, DU1148XTP, DUC600XTP, DUL240XTP, GU2400XTP, GU2500XTP, GU2548XTP, GU2600XTP, GU3200XTP; KitchenAid KUD x 01-6 (where “x� is any letter). All serial codes.

IF you encounter a dishwasher from among those listed that doesn’t operate, look to the possibility of a heater fault-detection problem. Under these conditions, the clean LED blinks seven times and the unit stops operating. The condition can also apply to a dishwasher that has had the electronic control replaced.

The cause of the problem is an insufficient rise in water temperature during a given period. The heater fault-detection program that was added to the electronic control is designed to shut down the dishwasher if the board-test for proper water temperature rise is not sufficient.

The details: The cycle was modified to add 8 minutes 45 seconds of heat at the beginning of the main wash cycle. If the inlet water at the thermistor is below 110°F, the thermistor looks for a water rise of 4°F. If the inlet water is over 110°F, the test is for an increase of 2°F. If the temperature rise is below specifications, the unit will drain and the clean light will blink seven times.

The detection described above is ignored if the temperature is out of the normal temperature range of 64°F to 160°F during this heat period. This thermistor temperature test is not done to increase water temperature for better washability, but to only assure that the heater is functioning.

Remember, proper incoming water temperatures should be between 120°F to 140°F. You will need to identify possible causes of insufficient temperature rise. These causes may include checking the wiring to/failure of the control, the heating element, the thermistor, the inlet valve, door switch, motor or capacitor. Be certain water is not siphoning during fill. Once the heater fault detection has occurred and the condition resolved, the electronic control must be reset by initiating a special diagnostic cycle. Use the Product Tech Sheet shipped with each dishwasher to identify the correct cycle sequence. The rapid advance cycle will not properly reset the electronic control.

For more information on your dishwasher or to order parts, CLICK HERE.

Upper Part of a Two-Part Agitator in a Whirlpool Washer Not Working

Michael wrote:

I have a whirlpool washer. I replaced the transmission with shaft about six months ago. It was working fine.

The agiator goes back and forth but the top agiator that is suppose to turn the cloths down in the tub is not working. I removed the softner cup and o ring lid to check if the nut was tight inside. It was. Any suggestions.  system is about 10 years old. Also replaced the plastic coupler and rubbers.

regards

M. Hudson

If the lower half of the agitator is doing it’s back and forth thing but the upper half ain’t, then you need to replace the agitator dogs (or “dawgs” as they say at my alma mater, the University of Georgia).

Glorious Washer Repair

Just when I’m getting burned out from spending every waking moment working on this website and wearing my finger tips to bloody, boney stumps from answering posts in the repair forum, someone goes and sends me an email like this:

Carolyn wrote:

Dearest Samuraifolk(s)

Thank you ever so much for having such a wonderful, comprehensive, A-B-C, easy to read, plain old English, with links to picutres website with ANSWERS! When the washer wouldn’t spin&drain, we thought perhaps as long as we were gonna have to buy a new washer (why pay almost as much for an in home repair when we could get something more energy efficient) that we should have fun learning on the old “broken” washer. Clicking around led us to you. We found that the problem was a broken lid switch actuator, learned how to take the washer apart without ripping it off it’s moorings, found the broken bit, and know where to go to get a new bit, all for less than $10. What a wonderful thing, your website! Glorious, truely. We are so grateful to you. Really. A $10 part! And we know so much more, now!

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The Story of “O!” (that being our painful exclamation as we get screwed again and again by Big Gubmint and Big Corporations)

Awwite all you cool grasshoppers, go grab you a beer and the Samurai’ll tell you a story.


Dupont:  Better Living Through ChemistryOnce upon a time, in a place that was called the "land of the free," there was a big ol’ company called Dupont. Now, Dupont made a thang that we old timers held near and dear to our hearts and that was R-12, a refrigerant used in just about every type of refrigerator ever made, including beer coolers. But Dupont had a problem: their patent on R-12 was about to expire and everyone else and their momma was gonna start making it, too. Well, it don’t take a rocket scientist, like yours truly, to figger out that once this happened, the price of R-12 was gonna take a nose dive.

Now, Dupont, being a company with lots of money to throw around, paid off a bunch of fancy-pants scientists and engineers at these high-dollar universities to show that R-12 was reeeel bad and needed to be banned. So these fancy-pants university types cooked up some numbers showing how all them nasty little molecules in R-12 was eatin’ up the orzos in the atmosphere…er somethin’ like that.

One of the fourth branches of the gubmint.Anyway, Dupont goes and presents all these high falootin’ studies to one of the fourth branches of the gubmint, the EPA. The EPA said, "Hmmm, we can’t be eatin’ up all them little orzos like that there. Gubmint has to do something about that!" So they came out with a big ol’ riot act of new regamalations where they said everyone what works on beer coolers has to have a new-fangled recovery unit to catch all them bad molecules.

Well, I didn’t know no better and besides, I didn’t wanna hurt them little orzos ‘cuz, heck, they ain’t never done nothin’ to me. So I lined up with all the other suckers, er, I mean, tradesmen and plunked down a bunch of money for a fancy new recovery unit.

Funny thang happened though. When the EPA got into the bidness of regamalating refrigerants, their prices all went sky high. So the cost to replace the compressor on your average beer fridge went from $150 to, oh, say $400, once you figger in the higher refrigerant cost and a refrigerant recovery charge. Well, at that price, people were just hauling their old fridges off to the landfill and buying new ones. Lots of good fridges piling up in landfills today. But, hey, the gubmint knows what’s best ‘cuz they here to help!

Meanwhile, Dupont is back in bidness, happily raking in the big bucks selling it’s new line of R-12 replacement refrigerants. Ain’t gubmint great? I think everybody awwta own one!

And so the gubmint and the big shot corporations who benefit from their regamalations all lived happily ever after.

The End


I can tell you that my recovery unit makes a reeel spiffy footstool in my workshop ‘cuz that’s all I ever use it for. Never even used it once. Wanna buy one cheap?

Frigidaire (or 417 Kenmore) Front Load Washer Leaking from the Bottom; washer leak; washer repair

Sue wrote:

We saw what you said about a Leak from a Frigidaire (Kenmore 417.xxxxx) Front Loading Washer. It appears the door is holding water. There is a slow trickle of water leaking out. Would this more likely be the door seal boot?

THANK YOU!!!!

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click here for a cool interactive breakdown diagam of your washer to help you fix it now!In vexing times like these, I turn my furrowed brow to Samurai’s 12 Laws of Appliance Repair. In accordance with the 7th Law, “All leaks are visual.” To aid your visualizations, click the washer breakdown diagram shown here for an interactive tour of the very bowels of your washer. Go ahead, I’ll wait …

Back so soon? Ok, with that crash course in washer anatomy, let’s light this candle with the simple stuff, first.

We’ll start behind the washer… oh, cut it out! … where the two water fill hoses connect. They’ll connect from the shutoff valves at the wall to the water inlet valve on the back of the washer. Lay some heavy-powered eyeball action, aided by the brilliant illumination from the halogen search beam you’re using, on both ends of those fill hoses looking for any sign of water. And, by the way, if your fill hoses look like this, well, you and ol’ Brother Noah ’bout to have something in common… ‘cept he had forewarning; but now you do, too!

Awwite, ever-thang looks good with the fill hoses, so now we pop that front kick plate, like ahso. We’re looking for evidence of leaking from either the tub boot or from the tub gasket. Here’s a thought question: since the tub boot is right up front, and if it were leaking, where would we see signs of leaking? Ooo, you’re good! If your tub boot is leaking, this excerpt from the service manual should hepya replace it.

Ok, here’s a tougher one: given that the tub gasket goes all the way around the tub, where would you expect its characteristic leak pattern to be? That’s a little less obvious, but this post explains what to look for and a minimally-invasive procedure that may fix it.

Finally, I have also seen, on rare occasions, where a bra wire pierced the pump suction boot and created a leak.

Smile! It’s a Friggidaire! (yes, I meant to spell it that way)

Yes! Some of You DO Grok this Site!

Mark wrote:

As Tommy Lee Jones would say, “Excellant work young man”
The site is great, the info is right on target. Been there, done that. Reminds me of a friend of mine that we never let use power tools or touch anything electrical. I am constantly telling him the same things so profoundly posted on your site. Keep it UP!

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Thank you, mah bruthah! I’ve always tried to make this site informative as well as entertaining and it’s always cool when I hear from kindred spirits, like yourself, who “get it.” Mucho domos and keep thinking your own thinks!

Is Your Washer a Flood Waiting to Happen?

Flood Waiting to HappenWent on a service call the other day for a refrigerator. And, in one of those, “While you’re here…” things, I ended up checking out the washer and dryer. Something I always, always check when working on a washer are the fill hoses. The cheap, stamped-brass fittings on the black rubber fill hoses were badly rusted and, in that weakened condition, were more prone to snap or split, causing a huge flood in this million-dollar lake house.

Stainless-Steel Braided Fill Hoses for a WasherSo I pulled those hoses off… actually, the fittings were so badly rusted that they no longer rotated so I had to cut ’em off with the big serrated-edge knife in my Leatherman Wave that I keep on my belt when I’m running service calls. Then I installed a beautiful, brand-new pair of stainless-steel braided fill hoses with stainless steel fittings. The only additional charge was for the retail price of the new hoses. Cheapest flood insurance you can buy!

Recommended Reading: Three Easy Steps to Total Washing Machine Flood Prevention

Mailbag: Washing Machine with a Case of the Drips

Doctor K wrote:

Your holiness,

washing machine question. (KitchenAid model#622874) I suspect the water inlet valve is faulty since water is dripping when the machine is “off”.

Where is the valve located? How do I access to replace?

With all do admiration,

Michael

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back of a whirlpool or kenmore direct drive washerYep, sounds like your water inlet valve can’t quite pinch it off anymore. The valve is mounted to the washer’s rear bulkhead (that’s Navy talk for “wall” or “panel” — don’t let it throw you), as seen here to the right.

Hey, don’t run off and start taking off the back panel like a kid opening a Christmas present– take a breath and read this short missive on how to disassemble your washer. You’ll be glad you did.

As you probably suspected, the valve can no longer be trusted to control 40 to 60 psi of water pressure every day, all day long; you have to replace the valve. And, if you purchase the new valve here within the next five minutes, I’ll confer a special blessing upon you.

Nolo contendere, e pluribus unum, my child.

Frigidaire Dryer Squealed then Stopped Running; dryer noise; dryer drum bearing; dryer repair

Drum Bearing, Old and NewWent on a service call the other day on a Frigidaire dryer with the complaint of being very noisy and then stopped tumbling altogether. I opened up the dryer and saw that the back of the drum had actually dropped down several inches. Hmm, this was weird.


Looking between the back of the drum and the heater can with my flashlight, I saw that the drum bearing had broken clean off!

Incidentally, for instructions and pictures on disassembling this dryer as well as other dryer brands, see this illuminating tome on dryer disassembly.

Anyway, when the bearing on this dryer needs to be replaced, it makes one helluva racket. The noise will go on, getting progressively louder and more skull-piercing, for several weeks before some type of catastrophic failure occurs. I don’t know how they could put up with the noise all that time. When the dryer finally stopped working altogether, then it was time to call for service. Enter the Samurai.

Bearing Sockets, Old and NewTo get an idea of how long the dryer must’ve been screeching and howling, check out how the round drum bearing ball got lathed into a cylinder by the worn bearing ball socket.


dryer drum bearing kit for frigidaire dryer-- click here to purchaseAnyway, I installed a brand-spanking new drum bearing kit and harmony was restored to both the dryer and the household.

To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.

Gas Oven Goes Boom When It Starts; gas oven ignition problems, gas oven repair

rvancott wrote:

I have a kenmore stove. Inconsistantly after the stove is turned on after several minutes I heard a boom from the stove. The kitchen smells like gas, but the stove is on. I would assume from your trouble shooting guide that the ignitor was the case. Do you have any insights/surgestions….Master

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This is caused by delayed ignition of the gas. You didn’t include a model number so I can’t be sure of who the real manufacturer is (RE: Who made my Kenmore?) But this was a known problem with the ignition ports on the bake burner tube in some Whirlpool-built gas ranges, including some of the ones made for Kenmore.

The ignition ports are special holes in the burner that line up with the hot-surface ignitor (the “glow plug”). When the valve opens, gas gushes through the ignition ports and hits the ignitor where it ignites. The ignition flashes back into the burner tube and ignites the gas in the remaing burner tube holes.

The problem was a manufacturing defect with the gas ignition ports on the bake burner where the ignition ports where offset just enough that it delayed the efficient ignition of the gas; instead, the gas had to flow for a few moments before it finally found the ignitor. The result was a BOOM when all that extra gas outside the burner tube ignited.

The fix was to install the new, corrected burner tube, which you can acquire here.

How to Open a Whirlpool or Kenmore Direct-Drive Washer; how to take apart washer; washing machine disassembly; washer repair

Doc wrote:

How do I open a Kenmore Washer
Model# 110.28932790

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This is a Whirlpool-built direct drive washer. It opens up a little differently from what you might expect. Many people, thinking the top panel pops up, begin ruthlessly prying on the seam between the top and front panel and only end up with a disfigured washer. I’ve seen more adventurous types actually remove the entire back panel, getting them no closer to what they were trying for. Let the Samurai enlighten you.

The entire cabinet removal procedure is illustrated in this diagram. Even though the procedure is very straight forward, a couple of fine points are worth mentioning:

  • Some Kenmore-branded versions of this washer use plastic endcaps to cover the console screws. Just remove the console end caps and the console retaining screws are right there. This technique is illustrated in this photo.
  • Once you’ve removed the console screws, flip the entire control console up and back to reveal the cabinet retaining braces, shown here.
  • After you pull the cabinet back and away from the washer, here’s an illustrated anatomy of your naked washing machine. The lid switch is screwed to the inside of the cabinet top panel and is easily accessible with the cabinet removed.
  • Replacing the cabinet is usually very straight forward but sometimes little snags can arise. Some helpful hints for replacing the cabinet are explained here.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

How to Make Electrical Measurements; how to use a volt-ohm meter; how to measure electricity

recinos wrote:

I have a GE Dryer, DDG6580GDLAD which quit working. I bought a multimeter (Craftman 3482141) to help me find the parts that are not working. However, reading the instructions for the multimeter is completely foreign to me. What I need is a crash course on how to use it. I read some of your information on it use and now have a vague idea. What I need is an Instructions for Dummies.

Thank you!

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Come in, grasshopper, and find shelter from the storm. I’ve written an easy-to-understand primer on making basic electrical measurements for your ineffable inflatus.

Amana Gas Oven Won’t Fire Up; Oven Ignitor Wires; Oven Repair

Oven Ignitor WiresWent on a service call for an Amana gas oven that wouldn’t fire up. When I arrived, I turned on the oven to verify the complaint– the ignitor (the thing pictured here) glowed but didn’t fire up. I measured the current draw on the ignitor (see this page for more details on that) and read 2.8 amps– too low to open the gas valve. When I turned off the range and removed the ignitor, I saw that its wires had been pinched so badly that it appeared the wires were intermittently making contact with the cabinet and arcing. While this wasn’t the direct cause for the oven not firing up in this case, it could have eventually become a cause for other problems, such as nuisance breaker tripping.

Anyway, installed a new ignitor and they lived happily ever after.


To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.