A handy and easy-to-understand pictorial guide that explains how the burners in gas dryers work at a glance. Download and share with all your friends. Fun for the whole family!

(click to enlarge)

To learn more about your dryer or to order parts, komenzie hither, bitte:  http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Repair-Help

Virtually all catastrophic dryer fires start in the dryer vent, not inside the dryer itself. This is because most vents are poorly constructed and get filled with flammable dryer lint resulting in a disease we professional appliantologists call, venterialsclorosis. See this post for more on that:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/12/26/dryer-venting-diseases-venterialsclorosis/

If the dryer vent is made using that cheap, collapsible plastic hose, you’re really asking for trouble!

For more information on how to make a proper, safe dryer vent, see this post:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/10/15/appliance-tip-of-the-day-the-ultimate-dryer-venting-guide/

To learn more about your dryer or to order parts, come ye hither: http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Repair-Help

Troubleshooting LG dryers can be a little daunting for those who are intimidated by electronic circuit boards. But this needn’t be the case. Despite all the fancy beep-beeps and whooplas, it’s still a gas dryer and the burner works the same way as any other gas dryer out there. In the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums, Sublime Master of Master of Appliantology john63 graciously offered this simple method of troubleshooting burner problems with LG gas dryers:

On a recent service call—I had an LG gas dryer with a *no heat* complaint—all components checked out fine.

As I was testing the NUMBER 2 gas valve coil for 90 volts from the MAIN BOARD (inserting the test meter leads into the gas valve coil plug) the gas burner began functioning.

The plug at the GAS VALVE COIL (there are two sets for coil no.1 and another for coil no.2) was not tight enough–in my case–the number 2 gas valve coil plug was too loose.

I removed both plugs from the gas coils and slightly bent the plug connectors on the gas valve coils. One slightly downward and the other slightly upward—reconnected the plugs–and the gas burner functioned perfectly.

This should be considered if the following test procedure does NOT identify a cause:

The correct sequence of operation for GAS HEAT operation is as follows:
1) FLAME SENSOR must be *closed* (closes at 320F/Opens at 370F)
2) COIL no. 01 is energized (90 VOLTS DC)
3) IGNITOR is energized & glows (120 volts)
4) FLAME SENSOR opens (370F) & IGNITOR begins to turn off
5) COIL no. 02 is energized (90 VOLTS )—Flame Ignites.

If no power is measured at the gas valve coils (90 volts)–replace the MAIN BOARD.

(click it to git it)

wolfpackapprentice wrote:

I have a Kenmore model 110.63956102 dryer that tumbles but does not heat. I have checked almost everything, I think, and I am still puzzled. Here is the list:

1. Power at terminal block – 240V in and 120V on each side
2. thermal cut-off shows continuity
3. High limit thermostat shows continuity, but when I put it on griddle it seems to open before the griddle is at 250F. Could this be a problem?
4. Heater shows 10.1 ohms – which is correct according to tech sheet.
5. thermistor reads about 9.1 k-ohms which would be almost right for the temp in my house.
6. I can’t figure out how to test the heater relay since there is not a test in the tech sheet.
7. Also can’t find the centrifugal switch, but how likely is that to be the problem?
8. I thought it was the temperature switch since the continuity on the switch at medium and medium high does not match the table in the tech sheet. However the new switch I ordered is the same.

Any suggestions because I don’t really know where to go from here?

This is one of the infamous “Even Heat” dryers about which I’ve cast several pearls that have sustained many a hapless apprentice; this one especially applies to your particular predicament.

To distill the wisdom contained in above-linked post, try swapping the heater and motor relays in the control panel. If the problem changes to one where you’re now getting heat but the dryer stops running as soon as the start button is released, you need to replace the relay.

If, OTOH, the problem remains the same then, assuming you accurately and correctly made the tests you listed, then you need to replace the Even Heat control board.

For gory details, see this post:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/17/easy-fixes-for-two-common-problems-with-the-whirlpool-even-heat-dryers/