Skeeter wrote:

Got a GE washer Model #WHDSR316G2WW, the motor circuit board light blinks four times. I reset the board by lifting lid six times. I put it in spin and it spins fine then, when I put it into wash, it tries to agitate but what actually happens is the tub moves back and forth in stead of agitator. And the four blinks come back on the LED on the motor inverter board. If I repeat procedure, it will spin them it won’t agitate and the four blinks comes back. Does this mean a bad shaft and tube assembly? Thanks in advance for any advice

Yep, four flashes on the motor inverter board is a bad mode shifter, as explained in this post:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/11/10/ge-hydrowave-top-loading-washer-wont-run/

There is a plug with only two wires coming from the center of the drive tube/mode shifter assembly. Remove that plug from the motor inverter board and check for continuity, you will most likely find it open.

You’re gonna need to install a new shaft and mode shifter assembly kit, which includes a new tub seal. See this page for complete, illustrated destructions:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/08/24/how-to-replace-the-shaft-and-mode-shifter-assembly-in-a-ge-hydro-wave-top-loading-washer/.

“Hydro Wave™” is a marketing name that GE uses to refer to its line of washing machines that use an inverter motor (a motor that requires a special circuit board to operate). Example model number series are WHDSR316, WPRE6100, WPRE8100, and WLSR3000.

Get the shaft and mode shifter assembly:

(click it to git it)

then use these instructions to take apart the washer and install the shaft and mode shifter assembly:

GE Hydro Wave Washer: Replacing the Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly

This cheat sheet is for the German-built Duet, not the assembled-in-Mexico Duet Sport. You can conveniently check most components right from the CCU.

Whirlpool Duet Washer Component Testing

You go to start a small load of clothes in your Samsung washer and everything seems to start off fine– fills with water and even tumbles for a few seconds. Then something goes horribly, terribly wrong and the display screams a 3E error code and maybe even a bE just for extra torment.

So you find a happy place and put it into spin cycle, thinking the machine will heal itself (hint: they don’t). But, to your deepening sense of doom, you notice the drum doesn’t spin at anywhere near the full spin speed; it just seems to loligag around like a dead man walking.

What’s a grasshoppah to do?

Let us hearken and attend unto the pearls of wisdom on this very problem from Master Appliantologist john63 in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums:

The Samsung washer model WF328 had been a source of grief for me until I learned a few details that are not widely known by *anyone*. Even Samsung parts dept folks.

Samsung redesigned the WF328 washer—mid-stride during it’s production run.

Models built **after** May 2009 had the DRAIN MOTOR ASSY moved from the rear of the washer to the front panel location.

The STATOR (motor) / ROTOR / HALL EFFECT SENSOR were also changed or redesigned and are NOT interchangeable. I DO NOT have specific/accurate data as to which serial numbers had the original STATOR / ROTOR / HALL SENSOR and which serial numbers got the newer components.

Whenever getting an error “3E”—-it is necessary to test the STATOR ASSY from the MAIN BOARD *CN9* plug connector.

CN9 resistance readings:
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 11.6 ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 11.6 ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 11.6 ohms

If the ohms are “off”—remove the plug connector at the STATOR ASSY and inspect for corrosion or damage (add a small amount of dielectric grease to the plug).

Test the ohms at the STATOR ASSY…

If there’s even a slight variation of ohms—replace the STATOR ASSY & HALL EFFECT SENSOR.

You’ll absolutely need to contact *Samsung* and provide the full model & serial number so that the CORRECT parts are ordered.

***Be assertive and ask the parts representative at Samsung to quadruple-check that the parts are indeed the correct ones for your customer***

The older STATOR ASSY had the HALL EFFECT SENSOR already on it and was *not* removeable from the STATOR.

The newer STATOR ASSY is a different design and has a different HALL EFFECT SENSOR which is removeable/replaceable as a separate part.