I have ge top load washer Model Number: wpsr3120w0ww It agitates on all cycles but does not drain or spin. What could the problem be? Thanks for you help.
This will either be a clogged or bad drain pump. Remove the front panel as illustrated below:
The pump is right there in front with the drain and and suction hoses attached to it. If there’s water in the drum, bail it out before removing the hoses or you’ll have that water all over your floor. Then remove the hoses from the pump and look for gookus inside the pump and the hoses. If found, clear it and try it again. If still no joy, replace the pump. Click the image below to get it. All good. 8)
(click image to purchase)
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
kenmore model 11027032603 leaks at bottom center. Leak starts shortly after start of wash cycle. Apeasr to leak more with heavy load. What is likely source of problem?
The tub seal has gone out on your washer. Not an uncommon problem. The tub seal and bearing comes as a factory-installed set. Kommenzie und gitenzie one:
Click image to purchase
Not a bad job. The one good thing about this washer is that it’s pretty easy to work on. Which is a real plus because you’ll be working on it a lot. Come grok on this illustrated and annotated teardown guide:
The “control locked” light was on… you had suggested to someone else to hold the “End of Cycle Signal” button down for 3 seconds… and darned if that didn’t turn the light off. Thank you so much!!!
There ya go, buddy-row! On some models, you may have to hold it for 5 seconds but same happy result. 8)
Hello! I we got question about Whirlpool front load washer. We have this unit for over few years and problem that recently pops up is water slowly gets in to washer and feels it up when unit is OFF. What do I have to fix it? Thanks for your support.
Dmitry
This is a classic case of bad water inlet valve. The water inlet valve is the thing inside the washer, in back, that has the water fill hoses attached to it. It’s what opens and closes to let water into the drum.
What’s happened to yours is that the valve has gotten damaged by what we professional appliantologists call, “gookus,” which is a technical term for anything that ain’t supposed to be somewhere. Probably sediment or pipe scale made it’s way deep into the inner guts of the valve so it can’t make a tight seal anymore.
The fix is to replace the water inlet valve. We have ’em for every kind of washing machine out there, including Whirlpool, Kenmore, Frigidaire, Electrolux, GE, LG, Bosch, Asko… you get the idea. Come have a look and see for yourself– click here.
For example, in the case of the original Whirlpool Duet washers, model number GHW91* and GHW92*, the water inlet valve looks like this:
(Click image to purchase)
In the case of the Whirlpool Duet Sport washer with model numbers like WFW8*, the water inlet valve looks like this:
(Click image to purchase)
You can also easily find the valve for your specific washer by just plugging your model number into the parts search box in the sidebar, the one with the purdy green button.
Replacing the valve is piece of pie, tovarish! On most front loaders, just remove the top panel (three screws in back) and the valve is right there. Shut off the water supply at the wall and unscrew the fill hoses from the valve. Watch this cool video for more:
I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL WASHER MODEL LSR8133HQ0 I HAVE PART THAT CAME OFF IT DOESNT LOOK BROKE; IT HAS A SPRING CONNECTED TO A GRAY FLAP. I FOUND THAT THIS PARTS KEEPS THE WASHER FROM SPINNING OUT. WHEN YOU LET DOWN THE WASHER TOP THIS PART MAKES THE WASHER WORK IT IS FOUND UP UNDER THE THE TOP RIM OF THE WASHER. WHAT DO I DO? CAN I HAVE THIS PART REPLACED OR FIXED?
You have had a Close Encounter of the lid switch kind. The piece you found is part of the lid switch. On this washer, if the lid switch breaks, like yours did, the washer will not spin. The solution is to replace the lid switch:
Click image for larger view and to purchase.
This video shows you how to install the new switch and get your washer running right again…
We have the Bosch 500 series washer. The underwire came out of a bra and sounds caught between the pump and drum. Would really like to get it out myself instead of calling someone. I can’t download the page with the diagram (bosch-fl-washer-clearing-pump.pdf ) Any ideas how to get it out?
Ax and ye shall receive, that is the Way of the Samurai:
I have an LG Washer, WM2277HW, and it sounds like the motor?? Kinda loud… and not spinning… and now filled with water in the drum because I can’t get it past the one point to drain… Got a quite from Sears to fix with a 1 year service and all parts would be included for $342. or 90 day on service no parts for $129…. not sure how much these parts will be…I bought this March 1, 2006… and no longer have any service agreement…
Now why would anyone need a Service Agreement when they have Samurai Appliance Repair Man? Why, it’s better than a frog in a blender… er, something like that.
Annywaaayy…
The drain is clogged with what we professional appliantologists call “gookus.” That’s a technical term that refers to coins, nails, bra wires… anything that ain’t supposed to be there.
You’ll need to bail the drum and then access the drain pump so you can open the cleanout and clear the gookus. This purdy pitcher shows you where the drain pump cleanout is on your model:
(click for larger view)
If it’s clear, then there could still be gookus caught in the drain pipe– a little more disassmbly involved with that job and we can help you with that in the Laundry Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.
It’s also not unusual for these pumps to just go bad; the motor can burn out or seize up, the impeller can shear off or become so boogared up that it can’t pump the water anymore. If that’s the case with yours, come git you a new drain pump.
Have a Bosch Nexxt 500 series washer and am getting error E:04 message. Checked hoses and all clear. Suspecting something is stuck in pump. Understand that you have a service manual on how to clear the pump. You refer to the attachment: bosch-fl-washer-clearing-pump.pdf . Can you share?
Example model number WM2277H. The control panel says 57 minutes left in the cycle but it actually runs for another 1 hour and 20 minutes. Wassup wif dat, yo?
Someone (not naming any names) has been skimping on the detergent! You can only use HE detergent in this washer. Even occasional use of the regular stuff will screw it up and make it do a “suds kill cycle.”
How many washers do you have under the “C” clip?
if you have a thick and a thin washer…thats ok
if you have 2 thin washers thats ok
if you have 2 thick washers that not ok…
Diagnostic Test:
The diagnostic test is performed by using the Program Knob.
To START THE TEST:
• On digital display models, turn the Program Knob to start position, Touch Up.
(NOTE: If the model has a timer dial that can be rotated 360°, turn the Program Knob to start position, Drain/Spin.
• Press Pause Cancel to turn off LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and Pause Cancel buttons until LEDs start sequentially chasing, then release buttons.
1. All the LEDs will sequentially light. Pressing a button below a light cluster will light all the LEDs in that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the start position. The hot water solenoid will activate and hot water should enter through the detergent compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and cold water should enter through the bleach compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids will activate and cold water should enter through the softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will activate.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and the loading door can be opened.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and tumble.
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and spin (leakage test).
9. Turn the program knob (8) clicks from the start position. The drain pump and door lock solenoid will activate and the
washer will operate in high spin. SAFETY WARNING: If power is removed during this test, the door can be opened.
To prevent injury, DO NOT put your hands inside when the tub is rotating.
10. Turn the program knob (9) clicks from the start position. The control will signal the last error code.
Exiting Diagnostic Mode
There are two options for exiting the Diagnostic Test mode and returning the washer to normal operation:
a ) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord OR
b ) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after the Start Position. Press Options and Pause Cancel buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle LEDs appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the Diagnostic mode as described above and the bank of 5 LED’s on the right end remain ON regardless of Program Knob position,
a combination of pushed buttons may have caused the control to enter a special factory test mode.
Disconnect power to reset the control to return washer to normal operation is this occurs.
The Central Control Unit (CCU) is the electronic board that controls all the go-go on this Whirlpool-built machine. If you ever need to replace it, here’s where it lives:
