With the cabinet removed and the pump pulled off, you’re looking straight at the motor. The pump is pulled off to the left and held back by a screwdriver pegged into the frame.
To raise the top panel on this dishwasher, you have to first remove the door and then the front panel to expose the top panel latch bolts, located on each side, just below the top panel. With the top panel raised, you have access to the lid switch, water fill valve and injection assembly, dispenser assembly, and the top part of the tub boot. This can all be done with a #2 Phillip’s screwdriver, but I like to use a 5/16″ nut driver on the top panel latch bolts. Just another one of my bad habits. ; )
This post in the repair forum illustrates a clever use for a digital camcorder in helping to diagnose the problem with this washer. Turns out the washer wouldn’t spin because the coupler was stripped out. For someone who has no idea about how these machines work to try to describe the sound is tough. After viewing and listening to just two seconds of the clip, I could tell the problem was a stripped out drive coupler– heard it many times. Easy repair, too. Got complete instructions here.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Removing a washer timer knob can be tricky and you could cause more damage if you’re not careful. For the Whirlpool, Kenmore, or Kitchenaid top loading washer, there’s a good explanation of how to remove the timer knob in the repair forum. You can read it here.
Went on a service call on a Maytag Washer today. Complaint was that the washer was dead. When I got there, I started by verifying the customer’s complaint. Turns out that the washer would, in fact, spin but would not fill with water. No fill with water == no agitate.
Now, this is a very different problem from the washer being completely dead. This illustrates an important principle of appliance repair: the first step to problem resolution is problem identification. How you gonna fix the problem if you’re not even identifying the right problem? All you’ll end up doing is fixing the wrong problem!
So, with the problem properly identified, I proceeded to troubleshoot the washer. I listened for the soft hum of the water inlet solenoid valves being energized. But all was silent. Time to break out the meter and go fishin’.
I figured the problem was gonna be either the pressure switch or the timer. So, I opened the control panel on the washer to commence my scientific inquiry. One problem was immediately apparent: I saw some fuzzy stuff inside the console that, upon closer examination, turned out to be the dearly departed remains of a wayward rodent. All that was left was clumps of hair and parts of a little mouse skeleton.
Looking closely at the air tube on the pressure switch, I could see that our deceased mouse friend must’ve gotten bored inside that control panel because he started gnawing on it. I tried to get a picture of it but my less-than-$100, 3.2 mega-pixel Kodak digital camera only allows me to get so close. You can still kinda make it out in the picture, though. Just use your imagination for the rest.
Anyway, did some more testing and found that the pressure switch wasn’t getting voltage– that’s a bad timer, slam dunk. Replaced that air tube for good measure, too. Problem solved!
How to Remove the Timer Knob from a Whirlpool Washer (click to enlarge)
How to Remove the Timer Knob from a GE Washer (click to enlarge)
How to Remove the Timer Knob from a Maytag Dependable Care Washer (click to enlarge)
Whirlpool / Kenmore Calypso Washer Component Access Diagram (click to enlarge)
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
Whirlpool Duet / Kenmore HE3t Washer: how to remove the front access panel; how to remove the boot (bellows) assembly from the tub, how to replace the boot, how to replace the door switch. (click to enlarge)
Parts Link: Front Bellows Seal (boot)
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
| Washing Machine Diagnostic & Repair Guide | |
| Problem | Possible Causes |
| EEK! My washer is leaking! |
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| The washer doesn’t spin or, if it does, it’s real sluggish. |
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| It fills OK, it just won’t agitate. |
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| It doesn’t agitate or spin. |
|
| "Fool thing won’t pump out and I got a tub full of stinky water in the washer. I’m gonna die! EEEK!" |
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| It sounds like a helicopter’s taking off and the whole house shakes when the washer goes into spin. |
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| The clothes are still sopping wet at the end of the cycle and take forever to dry. |
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| "That washer put oil spots all over my clothes. I’m gonna sue!" |
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| "That horrible washer ate holes in my clothes! I’m gonna die!" |
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| Clothes are still soapy at the end of the cycle. |
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| I don’t get no cold water in my washer. |
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| The washer is completely dead. |
|
A typical stack laundry unit stuffed into a tight cubby in a bathroom.
Looking behind the stacked laundry unit. Couple things to note: 1) the vent hose, while metallic, which is good, is extremely difficult to disconnect for service and will tend to crimp when the unit is pushed back in place; and 2) since the washer’s water shut off valve is behind the unit and is not accessible for turning off between uses, BOTH fill hoses should be stainless steel braided hoses— that black rubber fill hose is a flood waiting to happen.
This stack laundry unit had flooded– that’s why I was called out to repair it. After pulling the water inlet valve, the reason for the flooding was readily apparent: one of the protective inlet screens had been removed! This is called the cute plumber’s trick. Don’t do it! If you have a problem with scale gunking up the valve and restricting flow FIX THAT PROBLEM! Removing the protective inlet screen just creates another problem.
Tammy wrote:
SA BOM NIM — I have a Kenmore 70 Series heavy duty washing machine, model 110.82873120 which is probably 13 to 14 years old (I say probably because it came with the house when we bought it 5 years ago). I think the transmission coupling has broken, because it hums but doesn’t spin or agitate. Is it worth repairing, being this old? (It has seen light use, only 2-3 loads every week for the last 5 years and I assume similar in the preceding years, as it was owned by a retired couple). What is the expected life of these machines?
Thank you for sharing your great wisdom.
Tammy
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This is one of the best top loading washers made today (Whirlpool is the manufacturer– Sears pays them put a Kenmore label on it). And you’re talking about one of the easiest washer repairs in the appliance world, two mugs on the SUDs-o-meter. Combine this with the fact that the replacement coupler costs less than $15 and it’s a no-brainer: fix your washer!
This page gives complete instructions on how to do this repair and even has a link to the part you need.
As for your question about life expectancy of washing machines, read this.
Go git ’em!
If you have a Whirlpool Duet (or the Kenmore-labeled equivalent, the HE3t), and if you’re a do-it-yourself kinda guy or gal, then you would do well to spend a few shekels on the genuine manufacturer’s repair manual for this washer. It’s a great machine but, let’s face it, it’s still a machine and, eventually, it’ll break.
george gerrts wrote:
hi, have a kenmore washer model 110.20872990……unit agitates but won,t spin……..does it need a new pump and if so, which does it have?….thanks………george
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A no-spin condition on this washer, the top-loading direct drive washer built by Whirlpool (with a Kenmore name stuck on it, in your case) is almost always a sure sign of a bad lid switch. As far as repairs go, they don’t get much easier than this one– it rates a mere single mug on the SUDs-o-meter. Got illustrated instructions fer ya ratcheer.
