You’re probably freaking out thinking it’s the motor or some expensive part that needs replacing. Nah, probably just got some gookus in the pump. Piece of pie, comrade. Read all about it.

So, your two to four year old Frigmore (Frigidaire-built but with a Kenmore name stuck on it) front loader is going clang-clang-clang like a trolley when it kicks into hi-speed spin? You’re probably faced with wallowed out tub bearings. Some good discussion for tackling this problem in this thread from the Samurai School of Appliantology. Go get ’em!

Got a Whirlpool Duet (or a Kenmore HE3T) washer that stops mid-cycle and flashes the HF error code? The solution is ratcheer in the Samurai School of Appliantology.

So, you did your due diligence and eliminated all the usual suspects: water supply hose, drain pump boot, door seal boot, but you still get that pesky leak. What’s a grasshopper to do?

Ahh, Grasshoppah, have you considered the tub gasket? Observe:

Note the wet-warped envelope that holds the tech sheet. This is a sure sign that the tub gasket is leaking in a Frigidaire-built front-loading washer (also sold under the Kenmore brand). Click the picture for larger view.

Loose tub bolts will make a leak. Ya sure, ya betcha. Yep, I fixed this one by reachin’ waaaaay up in the tub and crankin’ down on those tub bolts. Got half a dozen turns on three o’them bad boyz. Problem solved. We bad!

Now go git ’em!

Had an interesting one the other day. This was the newer Maytag MAV top-loading washer. Complaint was that the washer wouldn’t run; it just made a horrible buzzing noise when you pulled the timer knob to start it. What’s worse, the tub was full of rancid washer water.

I verified the complaint and placed the source of the noise as coming from inside the cabinet, not the control panel. This is an all-important first step because, in accordance with Samurai’s 6th Law of Appliance Repair, “Begin troubleshooting directly at the problem,” it tells me that I should begin by checking the mechanical drive system of the machine. So I began this excursion into appliance repair excellence by removing the front panel of the washer.

Using a flashlight, I located the clips in the top seam of the front panel. Then I used my putty knife to push in the clips and pop the hood. With the hood raised, I located and removed the two 5/16″ black hex screws on the inside holding the front panel to the rest of the cabinet using my magnetic hex driver. The front panel tilted out, up, and off. Once the front panel was removed, I had access to all the mechanical guts.

I pulled the timer knob again and the buzzing noise was definitely coming from the motor. To eliminate the possibility that the motor was having blocked rotor effect from a seized transmission, I pulled off the drive belt and ran it again. Same noise. So the problem was definitely related to the motor or its power circuitry.

Next step was to open the control console and get the schematic diagram for the washer so I could do some basic electrical tests. I removed the motor’s wiring harness and tested the motor’s start and run windings for continuity. Both checked good.

Ok, it was time to take it to the next level.

The next weapon in my arsenal of troubleshooting tricks is the live electrical test. This is where I measure voltage in a live circuit. Please, I AM a professional so don’t try this at home. My objective here was to see if the motor was getting the right voltage, meaning 120vac (nominal), to the right places. With the harness still disconnected, I used the schematic diagram for the washer to locate the pins on the wiring harness corresponding to the motor’s start and run windings. Once located, I pulled the timer knob to energize the circuit and measured the voltage at the pins using my multimeter. Voltage to the run winding was good but the start winding voltage was AWOL. Things were getting curiouser and curiouser.

Now here’s where the parts changing monkeys get separated from the Master Appliantologists. At this stage, monkey boy would think the timer was bad and order a new one. But, alas, he would choke and gag on the bitter herb of disappointment. For the problem, in this case, was not the timer; nay, nay, young Grasshopper, behold:

Wiring harness on the Maytag MAV top-load washers. If the motor won’t run and the washer makes a buzzing noise when you start it, check this harness before you replace any parts!

I pulled the harness apart and noticed a teentsy-weentsie black spot on the end of the male spade on the white wire. “Hmmm,” I said, whilst scratching myself in my most ponderous fashion, “what’s this?” I removed my bifocals and stuck my face up close and personal to that harness and, yea verily, that black spot was revealed to be a tiny electrical arc. Being a certifiable appliance guru, I knowed that electrical arcs occur because of loose connections. So I looked at the female side of the harness assembly and saw that the number nine white wire was pulled out of the harness by the barest fraction of an inch. Here’s a detailed diagram of the harness:

Wiring harness connector in the console of the newer Maytag MAV washers. If the motor won’t run, check the 9 White wire in this harness.

I re-seated the white wire and re-connected the wire harnesses at the console and motor. Now it was time for the moment of truth. I pulled the timer knob and… that bad boy fired right up! I let the washer pump out all that putrid water, received glowing accolades (in the form of a check) from my grateful customer and went skipping and plucking on my merry way to the beer store. And drank heavily ever after. The End.

It was a gray and rainy Saturday when the call came in: Frigidaire front-loading washer (stack unit) on the second floor of the house had leaked, enough so that the ceiling beneath the laundry unit was water stained. Samurai International Headquarters went to Defcon 2.

I guzzled the remaining beer in my sumo-sized 64-ounce beer boot and donned my battle garments. Within hours, I was in the Samurai’s Armored Fixite Do Battle Van, careening through school zones to do battle with another insolent appliance.

Upon arrival, I unsheathed my katana and pushed the customer aside as I dashed to the battle scene. This was fight between the Samurai and an appliance who dared to challenge him; the customer was merely collateral damage.

My master and mentor, Miyamoto Musashi, taught me that victory in war is impossible without a sound, well-reasoned strategy. In the battlefield of appliance repair, this means having access to technical information on the appliance you’re battling. With the Appliantology 3000 Total Appliance Awareness Microchip Implant (TAAMI) surgically implanted into the base of my spine, I had total access to all appliance information at the speed of thought.

I quickly consulted TAMMI and was advised to remove the front quarter panel to inspect the pump area for leaks. Closer inspection revealed that the leak originated at the pump suction hose, as seen below:

The leak originated from the pump suction hose (that’s the accordion-looking hose). Click for larger view.

This was odd indeed. I’ve not seen this hose be a source of leaks and TAAMI had no records of it, either. I was flying blind, like a pilot at night without instruments… and no aircraft, either, just flying by the seat of his pants… or something like that. Ok, nevermind. Anyway, I felt around the hose and felt the jagged end of a piece of metal, shown below:

Feeling around the suction hose a bit, I felt something metal poking out. I pulled out this 5″ long, thin piece of metal. Click for larger view.

Hmmm, the heat of the battle was now a raging inferno. It was not safe inside that laundry room for any civilian unprepared to fight to the death. But I am the Samurai, and I live only to battle insolent appliances; if I die in the process, then may the pot-bellied Buddha grant that I die with honor… and holding a cold beer.

So, I pulled out the bomber can of Fosters Lager that I keep in my tool bag for just such emergencies and popped it open. The mere sound of that can of fermented nirvana popping open cleared my head and revealed the source of the problem to me in a sparkling moment of pure satori: the long metal splinter was probably from the support wire from a bra that had worked its way down into the suction boot. Replaced the boot and returned the washer to service.

Here’s a sorry story: a five-year old GE washer and the transmission is fried. And, naturally, it’s just out of warranty. Yep, a common story with GE. As much as we keep warning people about GE, folks keep buying GE crap, “‘cuz they sell ’em at Home Despot, an’ all.” So, the freak show continues.

Here’s a clue: just because it’s good to own GE stock, that does not mean it’s good to own their appliances. Think on these things.

Sometimes, the solution to this problem can be something really simple.

Read the exciting saga of one grasshopper’s struggle with washer drainology.

A good discussion and technical information on this problem.

At last, a permanent solution to the vexing problem.

minnownj wrote:

Your website is absolutely fabulous! THANKYOU!
I am one of those unlucky idiots who purchased the Maytag Neptune Super Stack model MLE2000AYW. My machine died yesterday and I had the “lonely” Maytag repairman over to take a look. The $%#%^*&^ computer board is fried. The repair quote is $900. Since the machine broke down after the 8/9/2004 deadline on the class action suit, I am at Maytag’s mercy to either attempt to repair it or give me a Washing Machine Purchase Certificate. But I don’t want to purchase another #%$$# Maytag.

I need a stacking unit due to space constrictions. I’m considering purchasing a Frigidaire Gallery Series GLEH1642DS. But before I do, I wanted your venerable opinion, since it is VERY OBVIOUS that you know what you’re doing.

Well, Mr. Samurai, what do you think?

_______________________________
Message sent from IP: 12.75.214.147

I think $900 for this repair is very rich indeed! Yanno, if only I charged that much for repairs, then I wouldn’t be running this silly DIY appliance repair website. Hey…

Anyway, I think you should investigate doing this repair yourself. First, confirm the diagnosis– the guy could be blowing huge, billowing clouds of thick, greazy smoke up your keester. Then, buy the part ratcheer and you’ll save yer bad self a whole buttload of moola. Booyah!

UPDATE:

So, the guy emails me back:

minnownj wrote:

Hey, thanks for the reply. Already tried to buy the motor control board, no one has it, no one will sell it to me.

What do you think about Frigidaire appliances?

Now, here’s a case where I had taken the time to reply to this guy and he apparently didn’t bother reading my email closely enough to check out the link I sent him. In fact, the machine control board is in-stock and ready to ship at that link. In case there are any other alphabetically-challenged users pretending to read this post, I’ll attempt to make it more obvious: CLICK HERE NOW TO BUY THE MACHINE CONTROL BOARD FOR YOUR CRAPPY MAYTAG WASHER.

Any questions?

rgterzian wrote

Have a Whirlpool Duet HT Washer Model GHW9200LW0. Dryer stacked using
Whirlpool kit Banging or knocking at low speed spin only, noise stops as spin speed
increases. Minimal vibration in all cycles, unit near perfectly level. Performs
well- clothes clean, undamaged, relatively dry after spin. Can you help me,
wise one?

_______________________________
Message sent from IP: 68.36.210.89

This was a recent topic of discussion in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums. The problem really boils down to inadequate floor support and harmonic mechanical vibrations set up between the washer during the spin cycle and the floor. Read all about it ratcheer.

Well, well, well…
I got me an old washer
It’s makin’ me blue
It spits up out the drain pipe
I don’t know what to do.

Can someone help me,
with my scummy water blues?
I got water in my basement,
Oh, Samurai, tell me what to do!

I say I got me a washer…

Ok, that’s enough of that. A little bit of the Blues goes a long way with me, bruthah.

This problem is common in older houses with jack-leg plumbing jobs; with drain pipes that are too small in diameter; or from drain pipes that have become constricted from years of built-up gookus and scum inside of them. Many times, the problem is exacerbated by using too much detergent in your laundry; recommended reading: Your Detergents Suck.

Someone posted this problem in the repair forum and another user posted the photograph below of his very clever solution:

Vertical Surge Pipe Solution for Washing Machine Drain Pipes that Backup During Pumpout