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Saturday, October 30, 2004
These washers have been out for a few years and I'm starting to see more of them in the field. They are extremely reliable machines. Although they're designed for residential use, I've seen them used in commercial applications, sustaining daily, continuous use for several years. This is a top loading machine, vertical axis, and uses an agitator like most top-loaders. These pictures are all from a model GWL08, which has been out for several years. The current model is GWL11.
The most common problem I've seen with these washers is a failed pump. The pump is a separate electric pump, is very easy to change by laying the washer down on it's front panel, and is reasonably priced (about $50). Changing the pump is about a 10-minute job, and that includes time to manually bail a tub full of water.
Although it's a top-loader and looks very similar to any other top-loading washing machine you've seen, it has some significant design differences.
This machine uses a DC drive motor and performs spin and agitate by directly controlling the motor--no transmission! This has three big advantages over conventional top-loaders: 1) increased energy efficiency since you don't have efficiency losses through a transmission, 2) better reliability since there's no transmission to fail, and 3) no belts to fail since the agitator is connected directly to the motor shaft.
The control panel lifts off by removing two phillips screws on the back of the control panel. The panel then flips over. The picture below shows what it looks like with the control panel removed.
Not shown above are Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module, which plugs into the water inlet valve nipple, and the tech sheet, which you'll find folded up to the left of the water inlet valve. The tech sheet gives detailed instructions for entering diagnostic mode and interpreting the binary diagnostic code generated by the LED display on the control panel touch pad.
The Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module has been removed in the picture above. It's shown below:
Another difference with this machine is that it has no discreet pressure switch. Tub fill level is sensed by the Power Control and Pressure Sensing Module, above. This module has two fuses inside, on the control board. When one of them blows, it's usually an indication that one of the high voltage components, pump or diverter valve, have gone bad. Surprisingly, and contrary to our experience with the abysmal Maytag Neptune Machine Control Board, this control board is amazingly robust. The board on this particular washer happened to be bad but that's the first one I've seen.
The air tube from the tub pressure dome connects to a nipple on the upper right-hand side of the module. The module has a female port that connects with the water inlet valve nipple making a water-tight connection. Water is run into a heat sink tube inside the control board module to keep it cool. It's the only water-cooled control board I've ever seen in the appliance world!
This last picture shows the Touchpad Module that accepts and interprets keypad input.
I haven't seen any failures of this module. I have however, seen the touchpad itself fail but, in almost every case, it's from the user pushing too hard on the keypad buttons. But, it's a very inexpensive and easy part to replace.
Nice machine, as you'd expect from Fisher & Paykel--reliable, first-rate engineering, and easy to troubleshoot and repair.
Yeah ok kewl
I have the same machine as Vector - the GW501-U.
To Both Vector, Puff, and anyone else seeking troubleshooting help: be glad to get into the nitty gritty on this with you, but the repair forum is the place for that. The comments here at the blog are for things like adding to the information I've already presented, telling me what a great job I'm doing, wishing you could be like me, etc.
I(the wife) has a Fisher & paykel smart drive fresh 5.0-model AW085U.
I have a fisher & paykel 5.5kg, model MW059AU and the keypad has failed, therefore it will not turn on. Fisher and paykel have been really unhelpful and haven’t discussed the possible issue, and want to send a technician at $110, then for “circuit board repairs” could cost up to $260!! I might as well buy a new machine! I have no idea what to do!
I too have a Fisher & Pykel 5.5Kg model MW059AU 240v . The machine fills up goes through the cycles to Rinse & the pump continues to run but the machine never gets to Spin.
I have one of these (I think the GWL15) and the pump indeed has gone out - one month after the warranty expired.
I have a Fisher Paykel GWL10. I am getting error code 104. Tub is full of water. It will not go into diagnostic mode. This error code comes up as soon as i plug it in. Anyone know what error code 104 means?
I have a GWL-11 us (about 2-3 years old) and it is now starting to leak water inot the tub from the fill spout after the wash and spin cycle is over. I am wondering if it is simply a water solinoid or something easy to replace....Any thoughts? Thanks
I've also got the water level sensor intermittent problem. Does anyone have a part number for the replacement?
I have a gwl10. that is not spinning dry and clothes in the very bottom are wet. I tried to get in fault mode but not sure how. power on I hold the spin up/down button but nothing happens.
I have the double dish drawer model..it stops at different phases of the scrubbing cycle...the manual says it could be because the water is not hot enough...i cranked up my hot water heater and run the hot water just as the machine starts and the bottom drawer works fine so I don't believe it is that...any ideas???
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