Gas oven goes boom when starts

I have been having an issue w/ my Whirlpool gas oven , Model SF365BEY

I saw your posting regarding a manufacturing defect with the burner tube
Can you tell me if my model had this defect

Also I am very concerned – I have already had gas company replace the ignitor
Now I recently am hearing when I am cleaning mode the boom many many times – should I stop using this oven ? How dangerous could that be ?
Does it sound like the ignitor is broke again ?

Is it normal for it turn off and on like that so often ???

Thank you for your help in advance

Get Ready! (for the Hard Day)

Get ready for the Hard Day

It’s not a question of if, but when and how bad the next emergency will impact your life. Even the various tentacles of the federal gubmint are urging people to make preparations for at least a 72 hour emergency, but anyone with any common sense is preparing for a much more protracted scenario. When I talk about this with my family, we call this the Hard Day.

http://getready.fixitnow.com

To help people prepare for the inevitable, I’ve started a new message board completely dedicated to helping everyone and anyone prepare for the coming Hard Day. It’s brand, spankin’ new so I only have a few things posted right now but it’s not about me– it’s about we the sheeple pooling our knowledge and resources to help each other survive and prosper during the Hard Day. In turn, we have a responsibility to help our neighbors and communities prepare. Don’t rely on the gubmint to do for you what you should do for yourself; remember Katrina.

http://getready.fixitnow.com

The new message board is called Get Ready! It looks the same as the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum and runs the same software, so it’s already familiar to regular users of this site. So come on in and become a part of our preparedness community:

http://getready.fixitnow.com

Staber Washer: A Customer’s First Impression

The Staber washer is a horizontal axis washer (commonly referred to as “front-loaders”) but with the unique feature of loading from top. It has all the advantages that come with horizontal axis washers: uses much less washer and electricity, no inefficient, clunky transmission, needs less detergent, and clothes last longer because they’re not whipped back and forth by an agitator. You can read more about the Staber here.

Recently, one of my site users bought a Staber and I asked him if he would share his honest first impression of the machine. He was gracious enough to write the following excellent report on his first impression upon receiving, unpacking, installing, and running his new Staber. If you’re considering buying a Staber, this report is required reading:

John wrote:

It came nicely packed, but after opening it, my neighbor said, ‘is it used?’. There were greasy fingerprints, dust, etc. Since I know you are into the Apple packaging thing, you can unnerstan what I’m talkin’ ’bout. It didn’t bother me much. I read that they test each unit, etc. which is comforting. I also would give the ‘fit and finish’ a B-. I like the overall look of the machine, but when you look closely, the sheet metal does not match up to the plastic top very well. Again, not a big deal to me.

I installed new filter washers because the old ones had started to fall apart. I tried to scrape the remnants out of the valve before hooking things up. I really should replace the valves, but was very excited to hook things up and blew it off.

With my wife’s help, we had it leveled on our uneven, poured-concrete floor in about 15 mins. The manual indicated that each adjustable foot also had a locknut, which it did not (design change?). Also, it stated that we should install the rubber feet onto the metal feet, but they were already on…

Following their advice to wash our clothes sans detergent a couple of times because of residual soap residue due to our old, ineffective washer, we threw a colors load in to use both cold and hot water on a warm cycle. I was amazed at how quickly it started to agitate due to the short time needed to add water. I’m not sure I get Staber’s logic when they state that it is gentler than traditional washers yet cleans better. Do they mean that it is tumbling rather than tugging on the clothes?

Anyway, it sounded like it was really agitating things nicely. Could be a little quieter, but not bad. I’m glad it isn’t near our bedrooms, tho. I made sure to be in the room when the spin started. I was surprised by the long duration of the spin compared to traditional washers, but their slower spin speed (750 rpm?) probably explains this. It does, as others have noted, sound like a plane taking off. I
didn’t time the dryer duration for this load, but the clothes did come out ‘feeling’ dryer than our old 10 Y.O. maytag POS’s spin.

I guess I’ll reserve judgement on cleaning ability until I wash one of our heavily soiled, kid’s clothes loads with detergent. Some of their pant’s knees and socks have mud stains that are still obvious after a dozen washings in the maytag.

So, I guess I’d say, ‘So far, so good’ at this point. I’m more hopeful now that I’ve interacted with it a little. I felt like we took a gamble buying it without actually being able to inspect it like one could in a bricks and mortar. A suggestion: why not use quicktime to create an image of one which you can inspect online?

Thanks again,

John

Good suggestion on the movie! I’ll find one and add it to this post as an addendum. Also, if John has any followup reports on washability and usage issues, I’ll post those here as well. Or John can post it as a follow-up comment. 😉

UPDATE 12/13/2005: Here, now, by popular demand is the long-awaited Staber video. Be forewarned: it’s a 139 mb mpg file, could take a couple minutes to download on broadband, couple more if you’re on dial-up connection.

UPDATE 12/22/2005: I’m getting killed on bandwidth so the link in the previous update no longer works. But, never fear: The Samurai has come up with a mo’ bettah solution. If you want the video, just email me and I’ll send you the access link: samurai AT Fixitnow.com.

Refrigerator Warming Up and Makes an Occasional Clicking Noise

This is usually a burned out start relay on the compressor. The function of the start relay is to momentarily energize the start winding in the compressor motor and then cut power to the start winding as soon as the motor is running. In the good ol’ days, these relays were mechanical: heavy copper wire wound around a plunger that would open and close in response to current… and they almost never failed.

Most of the start relays on modern compressors are solid state and use a special material whose resistance increases with temperature. So, as current flows through the relay and the relay heats up, its resistance increases to the point that the start winding is isolated from the rest of the circuit, accomplishing the same thing as the old relays. A common failure of these relays is that the solid state material “cooks” and breaks up, staying open and thus never allowing the start winding in the compressor motor to energize. The end result is that the compressor tries to start, usually you’ll hear a humming noise, and then, after a few seconds, the compressor’s overload protector takes the compressor offline with a loud CLICK!

Easy way to tell if the start relay is bad is by simply removing it from the compressor’s control pod and shaking it. If you hear any rattling, it’s fried.

The most common start relays are shown below. Match ’em up to yours by sight. If you don’t see yours, you can use the 3-in-1 start kit or look it up here using your model number.

The other, more ominous possibility is that the compressor itself is FUBAR. You can check this with your ohm meter. Set it on the lowest setting and then measure the resistance between each of the three pegs sticking out from the compressor in the control pod– the same ones that the start relay and overload connect to. Should read something in the low ohms. If the reading between any two pegs is infinite resistance, then one of the windings in the compressor motor is burned out. You should also measure from one of the compressor pegs to ground with your ohm meter on the highest setting. If you read anything, the compressor has developed a path to ground and is bad.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

Gookus on a Gas Connection

Renee wrote:

The gas line connection to my dryer has what appears to be some sort of mineral deposits growing on the ouside of the coupling. It looks like off-white, delicate crystals. The connection is only a year old and was professionally installed. Is this dangerous?

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Could just be residue from when the connection was leak tested after installation… assuming that it was, in fact, leak tested. These days, you just never know. I’ve seen so much freaky shi’ite out there that I don’t assume anything anymore.

Post a photo of what you’re looking at and I might be able to comment further.

Get Ready to Pay More for New Appliances

Looks like all the big US appliance manufacturers will be raising their prices for new appliances this year. With the prices for new appliances increasing, appliances will become less disposable and the repair vs. replace decision will be skewed in favor of doing the repair. This bodes well for the appliance repair trade. If people have to pay more for appliances, repair companies will be able to charge more for their services. We’re going to have to charge more anyway because of increasing gas prices, so it’ll probably end up being a wash at the bottom line. But this also means that more people will be fixing their own appliances so I predict steady growth in traffic, parts sales, and live help subscriptions here at Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man. 😀

When consumers buy a refrigerator, dishwasher or washing machine made by Whirlpool this year, they will be paying up to 10 per cent more than last year.

Whirlpool, the biggest US manufacturer of home appliances, decided to raise prices to compensate for sharply higher raw material and transport costs.

“I don’t think this industry has ever seen the order of magnitude of cost increases and shortage issues with both materials and transports that we’re seeing,” Jeff Fettig, Whirlpool’s president and chief executive, told analysts recently.

Maytag, another home appliance manufacturer, also increased prices after being hurt by higher steel costs.

Analysts say that attempts by appliance makers to raise prices have failed before because companies would undercut one another, bringing prices back down.

But higher materials costs mean all appliance makers are in the same boat. “We are seeing no sign that any of the suppliers are breaking ranks on pricing,” analysts at FTN Midwest Securities say in a research note.

[Read full article…]

Speed Queen Dryer Blew Thermal Fuse and Now Thermostat

Manas wrote:

About 6 months ago I replaced the thermal fuse on my Speed queen Dryer. It seemed to fix the ‘no heat’ problem (the vent is clean). Recently, I have lost heat again, appears the the thermostat (p.# 62641) is bust (no continuity). This manifested by the heating taking longer and longer, to now being totally cold. Oh wise one, what does this trend indicate?

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Whenever a thermal fuse blows, I always check the vent. What am I checking for, just the presence of lint? Nay, nay, intrepid grasshopper, there is much more to good dryer venting than merely the absence of the flammable mixture of human skin, mites, and clothing fibers, a.k.a. dryer lint. How much more? Read and learn.

Best maintenance practices also dictate that whenever either the thermal fuse or the thermostat are found to be bad, that both parts are replaced at the same time to avoid exactly the situation you’re now in.

Happy Thanksgiving!

In this fifth Thanksgiving Day of the new millennium, I am filled with gratitude and thanks for cheating death another day. Life is the greatest gift of all and we tend to get so bogged down by the frustrations and minutia of day-to-day living that we lose sight of the bigger picture. That’s the really cool thing about Thanksgiving– regardless of your religion or personal philosophy, Thanksgiving is a day that calls each of us to step back from the tasks in our lives and to simply be grateful that we are alive. And it’s not even about being thankful for all the toys and crap we have in our lives, it’s about being thankful for Life itself and for that little spark of Life that infuses and animates the being of every living creature in the universe. As humans, we have a unique relationship with Life because we alone have the capacity to be grateful and thus enter into a unique and personal relationship with Life. And because we all share the same Life, regardless of our religion, ethnicity, or race, we are literally brothers and sisters.

My human brothers and sisters, let us lay aside our petty differences and earthly cares, even if only for this day, and recognize that we are all connected simply by virtue of being alive.

It is good to be here.

Whirlpool/KitchenAid Tall-tub Dishwashers Won’t Operate

Service pointer from Whirlpool on this problem.

Models affected: Whirlpool DU1050XTP, DU1100XTP, DU1101XTP, DU1145XTP, DU1148XTP, DUC600XTP, DUL240XTP, GU2400XTP, GU2500XTP, GU2548XTP, GU2600XTP, GU3200XTP; KitchenAid KUD x 01-6 (where “x� is any letter). All serial codes.

IF you encounter a dishwasher from among those listed that doesn’t operate, look to the possibility of a heater fault-detection problem. Under these conditions, the clean LED blinks seven times and the unit stops operating. The condition can also apply to a dishwasher that has had the electronic control replaced.

The cause of the problem is an insufficient rise in water temperature during a given period. The heater fault-detection program that was added to the electronic control is designed to shut down the dishwasher if the board-test for proper water temperature rise is not sufficient.

The details: The cycle was modified to add 8 minutes 45 seconds of heat at the beginning of the main wash cycle. If the inlet water at the thermistor is below 110°F, the thermistor looks for a water rise of 4°F. If the inlet water is over 110°F, the test is for an increase of 2°F. If the temperature rise is below specifications, the unit will drain and the clean light will blink seven times.

The detection described above is ignored if the temperature is out of the normal temperature range of 64°F to 160°F during this heat period. This thermistor temperature test is not done to increase water temperature for better washability, but to only assure that the heater is functioning.

Remember, proper incoming water temperatures should be between 120°F to 140°F. You will need to identify possible causes of insufficient temperature rise. These causes may include checking the wiring to/failure of the control, the heating element, the thermistor, the inlet valve, door switch, motor or capacitor. Be certain water is not siphoning during fill. Once the heater fault detection has occurred and the condition resolved, the electronic control must be reset by initiating a special diagnostic cycle. Use the Product Tech Sheet shipped with each dishwasher to identify the correct cycle sequence. The rapid advance cycle will not properly reset the electronic control.

For more information on your dishwasher or to order parts, CLICK HERE.

Upper Part of a Two-Part Agitator in a Whirlpool Washer Not Working

Michael wrote:

I have a whirlpool washer. I replaced the transmission with shaft about six months ago. It was working fine.

The agiator goes back and forth but the top agiator that is suppose to turn the cloths down in the tub is not working. I removed the softner cup and o ring lid to check if the nut was tight inside. It was. Any suggestions.  system is about 10 years old. Also replaced the plastic coupler and rubbers.

regards

M. Hudson

If the lower half of the agitator is doing it’s back and forth thing but the upper half ain’t, then you need to replace the agitator dogs (or “dawgs” as they say at my alma mater, the University of Georgia).

Glorious Washer Repair

Just when I’m getting burned out from spending every waking moment working on this website and wearing my finger tips to bloody, boney stumps from answering posts in the repair forum, someone goes and sends me an email like this:

Carolyn wrote:

Dearest Samuraifolk(s)

Thank you ever so much for having such a wonderful, comprehensive, A-B-C, easy to read, plain old English, with links to picutres website with ANSWERS! When the washer wouldn’t spin&drain, we thought perhaps as long as we were gonna have to buy a new washer (why pay almost as much for an in home repair when we could get something more energy efficient) that we should have fun learning on the old “broken” washer. Clicking around led us to you. We found that the problem was a broken lid switch actuator, learned how to take the washer apart without ripping it off it’s moorings, found the broken bit, and know where to go to get a new bit, all for less than $10. What a wonderful thing, your website! Glorious, truely. We are so grateful to you. Really. A $10 part! And we know so much more, now!

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