Example model numbers affected: WFW9550WW, WFW9600TA
Most common cause for the F35 error code: Using non-HE detergent. Detergent slime builds up in the hose, eventually getting into the analog pressure switch and killing it.
Corrective action: Replace the Analog Pressure Switch. Remove the top panel of washer, the switch is mounted on the right-hand side panel, item 20 in this diagram.
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The CustomCool is a gimmicky marketing name that GE came up with for what is basically a souped-up crisper drawer in the refrigerator. The drawer has been outfitted with a system of dampers, a fan, a temperature thermistor and a heater. Depending on the function selected on the CustomCool settings in the controls at the top of the refrigerator, a combination of these components can be used to theoretically chill items quickly, thaw items or hold the drawer pan at a specific temperature.
CustomCool™ should not be confused with TurboCool™, which is yet another gimmicky marketing name for a different feature of dubious value in the some GE refrigerators.
I’ve previously posted troubleshooting flowcharts for GE refrigerators and a generic warm refrigerator troubleshooting flowchart. This flowchart is a little different– it’s for troubleshooting the muthaboard in GE Profile Arctica refrigerators with the CustomCool™ feature. You can download it here:
GE Profile Arctica Refrigerator Main Board Troubleshooting Flow Chart (370 kb, PDF file)
As a result of your troubleshooting using the flowchart that I’ve graciously and generously provided above, you’ll probably find one of the components in this handy list needs to be replaced. I’ve included links to more information on each item. And you can conveniently buy them right here– just click the pictures to get ’em. Your purchase is what helps keep this site going so if you like what I do here, please buy your appliance parts through my links. Domo!
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– FAQs for Replacing the Motherboard in a GE Refrigerator
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– Upgraded Thermistors in GE Refrigerators
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– GE Arctica Refrigerator: Broken Air Damper and Everything’s Freezing in the Beer Compartment!
– Testing the Damper Door in a GE Profile Arctica Refrigerator
– GE Side by Side Refrigerator Freezing the Beer
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– How to Test the Evaporator Fan Motor in a GE Profile Refrigerator
– How to Replace the Evaporator Fan and Motherboard in a GE Arctica Refrigerator
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– The Samurai Test for the Defrost Circuit in a GE Refrigerator with a Muthaboard… and the Quick Fix
Tips for Repairing the Augur Assembly in a GE Refrigerator Icemaker Dispenser
Dishwasher Installation Instructions
KitchenAid (a Whirlpool brand) has been offering the popular dishdrawer-style dishwasher for several years now. They’re also sold under the Kenmore label. Prior to 2008, Fisher-Paykel manufactured the dishdrawers for KitchenAid; since 2008, KitchenAid has been sourcing them from Fulgor. IMHO, the Fulgor-built units (since 2008) are a much better design and more robust.
From the outside and from a user’s standpoint, both units appear very similar. But the units have profound differences in construction and design that affect troubleshooting, diagnosis, tear-down, and repair. So, if you’re working on one of these, it’s important to have the correct manual. Here’s how to tell the difference using the KitchenAid model number and links to the respective repair manuals:
– KUDD01 models [tech document KAD-9] are sourced from Fisher-Paykel
– KUDD03 models [tech document KAD-10 for “2008”] are sourced from Fulgor
A quick way to tell a difference between the two manufacturer sources without taking apart anything is by the wash arm. On the Fisher-Paykel-sourced units, the wash arm will lift right off without having to unscrew anything. On the Fulgor-sourced units, you’ll have to unscrew and remove a wash arm cap.
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dmurry wrote:
I have the DPGT750EC1PL, 6 yrs old, and it stopped blowing (and therefore, drying). I ran the diags and it said low blower RPM and I poked around on the internet and figured I needed a blower motor. So I replaced that and it worked and we’ve run a few loads thru no problem. Then I get the call today from my wife…. not drying, not blowing. Bummer. Does that mean I need to replace the inverter board? I saw a post from a guy somewhere that replaced the board and still had a problem. How can I be sure what the problem is? Also, this seems to be a pretty common problem with these dryers, based on my casual glance across the internet. Do I have a clunker? I still consider 6 yrs old pretty “new”, or at least I didn’t plan on dryer replacement even being on the radar until the 10 year mark.
Not to make this too long, but we’ve had another problem for 1+ year. The drum sometimes doesn’t turn. We give it a spin by hand and close the door real quick and it works. In replacing the blower, I checked the belt and it seems perfectly fine so I don’t suspect a worn belt. I did clean out the cr*p around the dryer support wheels and I’m sure that helped but the problem still persists.
Your help GREATLY appreciated!!
The antithetically-named GE Harmony dryer is a great disrupter of household harmony. They’re more convoluted than most dryers because they use fluky electronics for things like running the blower motor instead having the blower directly coupled to the drive motor. This is one those Frankenstein designs that the GE engineers should have let quietly die on the drawing board. But, to our horror, IT’S ALIVE!
Here’s an inside look at its Franken-guts:
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The blower motor is a DC, variable speed motor that operates at different speeds depending on air temperature and venting back pressure. If the blower is running below 1000 rpm, the dryer control turns the heater off.
Resistance of the motor windings can be measured at the 10-pin connector on the inverter board or at the motor; gory details and more fun facts to know and tell in the troubleshooting cheat sheet below:
For your convenience, the part link for the blower motor is included below, should your troubleshooting confirm that it’s bad:
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