This topic in the repair forum has everything you never wanted to know about this ghastly repair job. It’s actually not that bad except for getting the spring clamp back on. See this page for more. And you can buy the replacement door boot gasket here.
From: NIcky Hancock
Subject: When you were offline (via LivePerson)Hi there, we have Kanmore front load washer (2001). We had to take machine apart because a screw had somehow got in between inner & outer tub. How on earth do we get the bellows boot back on (the one with the the spring)?
Thanks so much!
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The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.
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First off, you have a Kenmore, not a Kanmore. If you search this site or the entire web for “Kanmore,” you won’t find much.
No model number given, but the non-HE3t/4t Kenmore washers are made by Frigidaire (which we professional appliantologists like to spell, “Frikkidaire” — you’ll discover why when you change the bellows). As for how to change the bellows, this scroll of appliantological wisdom shall illumine your steps and make straight your path. Be there now. 
According to my latest fan babe, Suzanne:
From: Suzanne
Subject: When you were offline (via LivePerson)I just want to take a moment to thank you for running this site. It has been an awesome source of information and home appliance repair!! You kick ass! Thanks to your page I will no longer be slaving over the dishes washing them by hand. Hope you’re having a great weekend!
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The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site.
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In mid-June, Asko Cylinda AB of Vara, Sweden, recalled about 130,000 dishwashers that contain an electrical component, which can overheat, posing a fire hazard. The firm has received 21 reports of dishwasher fires. Product or property damage have been reported. No injuries had been reported.
The recalled dishwashers include the Asko model series DW95 with model numbers 1355, 1375, 1385, 1475, 1485, 1555, 1585, 1595, 1655, 1805, 1885, or 1895 manufactured from January 1995 through April 2000. The model number, serial numbers and manufacture date are printed on the name plate on the right interior side of the dishwasher door. Asko dishwashers manufactured after April 2000 are not included in the recall. The products were sold for between $750 and $1,300.
Made in Sweden and imported/distributed by AM Appliance Group Inc., of Richardson, TX, consumers are advised to contact Asko at (866) 309-9921 to arrange for a free inspection and repair or to participate in a rebate program. More information: www.askousa.com or www.cpsc.gov/
cpscpub/prerel/prhtml07/07213.html.
As we say in the trade, “Asko? Oh NO!”
To learn more about your dishwasher, or to order parts, click here.
Hey, I’m the Samurai; I’m here, I’m there, I’m everywhere! 😎
These machines have model numbers like FAV6800AWW. It can be tricky to diagnose clutch problems and not confuse them with the dreaded (but, unfortunately, all too common) transmission problems or relatively easy control problems. But this topic in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum will illumine your footsteps on this slippery path.
Even in the best of circumstances, it can be a battle doing appliance repair. But in the inner cities of modern Ameedica, like Deetroit, it’s an all out war zone. Check out this appliance repair war story from my brother-at-arms in the The Craft, Da Detroit Kaveman:
I listened to one of your podcasts about customers from Hell. I’ve got a few. I had one customer who another tech had diagnosed a timer for his washer and I went out there to put the thing on. Man, this gets weird so hold on. Remember this is Deetroit, I arrived at about 8:30 in the A.M. and found the house in between two burned out homes, (very common in Detroit, neighbors burn them down so people don’t use deserted houses for crack houses), anyways, I got there and this guy starts walking towards the truck, he was a caucasin and had a police badge around his neck and a big gun around his waist, t-shirt, and dirty trousers. He says,” this is my parents house, right this way” So, I follow him in thru the front room where an elderly lady who had a pungent odor about her greeted me with,” hope you fix it today” I said Yes Maam.
Anyways, I go downstairs with this guy and this big, I mean big dog is by his side the whole way down barking at me like he wants me for his snack, the guy tells the dog to be quiet, but the dog doesn’t even listen, the guy gets me downstairs, dog, still barking really loud, he shows me the washer, and I suddenly felt an aroma of dog feces, that was slowing invading my whole being, I mean it was thick with hair of the dog, I look at the machine, the guy is standing behind me , I started to gag, and vomit at the same time, eyes watering.
Heres where it gets really wierd, the guy stands there gun, dog barking, dog poop, and thru my watering eyes and vomit filled mouth, I notice he is standing in front of about sixty dog cages filled with dogs, cages all stacked on top of each other, with feces all falling down on each other, horrible, about 8 high, and 15 long, if not more I guess eight times fifteen is more than sixty. It was like something out of a horror movie, the guy stood there as I started to run out before losing my wonderful breakfast of sausage, eggs, rye toast with extra butter. I walked very fast to my truck and as I was leaving the guys says, “whats wrong,” I say I’ll be right back . I called from the truck and told him he would have to make the place a little less smelly and that I had a weak stomach.
Truth is don’t know what was going on there, and I was afraid to report him to the police cause he was one. Weirdest call ever. I bet if you had a contest no one could top that one.
Peace,
Jerry
Your Brother Kaveman
Appliance Repair Lesson: ALWAYS have an escape plan when doing appliance service calls in the jungles of inner city Ameedica.
I would have bailed, too. And, personally, I would absolutely call the cops for the animal cruelty going on in that basement. It’s not too late to call ’em now! 
Working on one o’ them fancy new Bravos, Cabrios, or Oasis (Oasises? Oasisi?) and you’re getting the confounding F51 error code? The reason could well be due to an intermittent connection at the Rotor Position Sensor, (RPS).
To correct this, remove and reinstall the connector at the RPS at least three times to clean off any corrosion built up on the connector and RPS due to the intermittent connection. Confirm that the connector is fully seated onto the RPS control upon final connection and verify there are no damaged wires. Replace the electronic control. The upgraded control is less sensitive to intermittent RPS connections.
To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.
If you’re working on a gas oven that won’t fire up, first come grok this appliance repair revelation that explains how the gas system works in a gas oven. Sublime Masters Pegi and Trying To Help explain how to apply this knowledge in repairing a gas oven that won’t fire up. Although the discussion is for a Magic Chef range, the same principles apply to all brands using hot surface ignition.
If your dryer stays warm (or hot) when the timer is turned to anywhere other than “off,” you may have what we professional appliantologists call a “grounded heating element.” Sublime Master Pegi explains in this topic at the repair forum.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
Konnichiwa, my friends. It’s been a long, cold winter and now half the summer is gone but, at long last, the wait is over: the Summer 2007 issue of our award-winning newsletter, Appliantology, is out. Lots of good appliance tips in this issue so hurry and download it today before it gets all used up!
If you have a recent model Maytag refrigerator (such as model number MFD2561), then Sublime Master Trying To Help has posted a DIY help doc at the repair forum to help you replace the evaporator fan motor. Check it out, yo!
So, right about now you’re axin’ yerself, “But, wise and fermented Samurai, what is an ‘evaporator fan motor’ and how would I even suspect that I may need to replace it? And, oh, by the way, just what in the hell is an evaporator, anyway?” Aye, it warms me cockles to see you jigglin’ that grey jelly ‘twixt your ears like so much belly blubber.
The part of your refrigerator that makes all the cold air is called the evaporator. It’s an aluminum coil that gets really cold (about -20 to -15F in a properly functioning refrigerator). The evaporator fan is mounted just above the evaporator coil and pulls air across the coil, chilling it, and circulates it around the freezer to keep it at around 0F. A portion of this air is diverted into the beer compartment to keep it between 34 and 38F. For more goodies about your refrigerator’s anatomy, see these excellent interactive diagrams of refrigerator guts; they show the three conventional styles: freezer on top, freezer on bottom, and side-by-side.
A sure sign that the evaporator fan has shat the bed is if you don’t hear it running when the compressor is running. After you confirm that the fan is getting the proper supply voltage, then you have proven that the fan is bad– come git you one!
Everyday, my inbox is jammed with thousands of emails from hopeful souls all over the world pleading and begging for an apprenticeship opportunity with the Samurai. The reason is obvious: a successful apprenticeship with the Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology and the world’s one and only 33rd-degree black belt in Fixite Do is a sure ticket to a successful and lucrative career as a certifiable appliance repair technician. However, due to time constraints, I can only accept two apprentices at any one time.
Currently, my two Samurai Apprentices are Zoltan (age 12) and Osama bin Fahrtin (age 10). And since they’re also my spawn, they’ll be apprenticing with me for the next six to eight years. However, they’ve prepared the following progress reports to give you, the abnormally hopeful candidate, a taste of the magic and glory of apprenticing with the Samurai.
Samurai Apprentice Zoltan offers this summary of his apprenticeship:
Konnichiwa, I will now tell you the great honor of working with the Samurai.
First, you must train yourself in tool-to-hand combat, or in other words you must know where his tools are, and when to hand them to him.
Secondly, the tool-bearer must keep the Samurai’s tools clean and in their place, for the Samurai does not tolerate fools.
Thirdly, you must be able to deal with customers. Some customers are honored to have the Samurai in their humble abode; some treat him like a parts changing monkey.
So you must always be ready for battle when the Samurai gets a call from someone who wants him to lay on dirty floors and fix stinking appliances. Now I must go, for my master needs a socket wrench. Sayonara.
And Samurai Apprentice Osama bin Fahrtin offers this troika of haikus about the types of customers he’s met while on service calls with the Samurai:
Some people are weird:
creepy, dirty, scary like
“Tales from the Dark Side.”A few are cheesedorks,
Complaining about his fee.
They shall taste his blade!Cheerful and friendly:
This is the best customer,
They do not complain.
The Whirlpool Duet Sport dryer uses an “electronic control system” consisting of a dime-store calculator LCD display, a plastic touch pad, and a cheesy circuit board, all made in a Chinese sweat shop.
Begin call for sanity:
Dryers are simple, humble machines that do three things: tumble the clothes, get ’em warm, and move a lot of air. Why would you want or even need an over-priced failure-prone “electronic control system” for a friggin’ dryer? I can almost understand it for a refrigerator or a gourmet oven, but a dryer? Putting an electronic control board in a dryer is like installing a GPS nav system on a kid’s tricycle. Enough! Stop the madness! Friends don’t let friends buy dryers loaded with over-blown electronic crap.
End call for sanity.
You can run several diagnostics tests on the Duet’s electronic control system– most of which you’ll use to see if the wanton electronics are working right. Before starting the diagnostics tests, the dryer should be in standby mode, which simply means that all indicators are off and the dryer isn’t running.
To enter the diagnostic mode, choose any selector button other than Pause/Cancel and do this little keyboard dance:
Press and hold for three seconds,
release for three seconds;
press and hold for three seconds,
release for three seconds;
press and hold for three seconds.
A control console guide is shown below, click it for a larger view:
You’ll know you’ve entered diagnostic mode because all the indicators on the console will light up for five seconds and you’ll see the code “88” in the Estimated Time Remaining display. And you’ll feel love for the Samurai bubbling up from within your heart and an overwhelming desire to buy him a brewski— it’s beautiful and totally normal, just go with it. 
If there are no fault codes stored in the board, then all the indicators will momentarily turn off, then come back on and stay on; the “88” will remain in the digital display. OTOH, if there are fault codes stored in the system, the most recent will alternately show (such as F-22), then the display will switch to show “XX.” If there is an active fault code, meaning that a fault code appears in the display when you try to use the dryer to dry some clothes, it will be flashing on the display. A complete listing of all the fault codes in the Duet Sport dryer is shown below, click it for a larger view:
Uploaded with Skitch!
Advancing Through the Diagnostic Procedures
Pressing More Time will toggle the left digit on the display; pressing Less Time will toggle the right digit on the display. In both cases, the control should beep. You can quit diagnostic mode at any time by pressing Pause/Cancel.
Now, it may happen that when you toggle these buttons, you don’t see anything happening on the display and you don’t hear any beeping– nuttin’, honey. After cursing superfluous electronics in appliances that just don’t need them and after appropriately berating yourself for not heeding the Samurai’s sage warning against appliances infected by shoddy electronic controls, then it’s time to cinch up your azz strap, Bubbalouie, cuz yer goin’ in. You’ll need to open the control console and check closely for a loose connection on the P5 connector on the electronic control board. Make sure that the control housing assembly is properly inserted in the front console. Next, kill power to the dryer for about five minutes. If, after doing these steps, the indicators still won’t light, then guess what? Yep: fried control board– come git you one. I would say, “I told you so,” but I’m better than that. 
While you’re in the diagnostic mode, opening the door should cause a beep and an alphanumeric number should show on the display. When you close the door, there should be another beep and the control should go back to “88.” (For those of you in Palm Beach, “alphanumeric” means they’s a number and a letter; oh yeah, we professional techs know how to work with both of ’em, that’s why we make the big money. 
)
To test the moisture sensor while in the diagnostic mode, open the door and bridge the metal strips on the face of the lint screen housing with a wet cloth. If the sensor is good, you’ll hear a beep and get treated to another meaningless alphanumeric number on the display.
To test the motor, heater and console ID, close the door and press the Start button. The motor and heater should turn on and the display will show a meaningless console ID, such as 9b, 9C, 9d, 9E, or 9F to give the impression that important information is being presented for your contemplation because, after all, it’s an electronic beep-beep board chock full of codes and other crap that don’t really mean anything but look ominous and important. While the dryer is running during this procedure, pressing the Start button again should turn the motor and heater off, and the display to again show “88.”
If a diagnostic procedure doesn’t give any useful information (hint: usually won’t), then it’s time to get the tech sheet from inside the console and do some real troubleshooting using the wiring diagram, your meter, and that grey jelly betwixt your ears. If you need more help, come start a new topic in the Laundry Forum and we’ll walk you through it.
To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.
Symptoms: Burner ignitors keep sparking after a burner is fired up. The ignitor may also randomly start sparking again later, while you’re cooking.
Cure: Clean the gookus and corrosion off the mating metal faces on the burner cap and burner base. For details, grok on this topic in the repair forum.
