Your Name: Ricky

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: GE electric range

Model Number: JB700SNSS

Your Precious Words:
The inside oven light seems to turn off when the oven gets hot. You can leave oven light on all night without using the oven and it stays on all night. Any ideas?

What’s happening is that the oven light socket is warping as it heats up, causing the bulb to lose electrical contact. Replacing the light socket is easy and inexpensive. Watch a video on how to replace the oven light socket. You can also buy the new light socket there, too.

Your Name: Verne

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

Brand: Gemini

Model Number: MGR6772BDB

Your Precious Words:
The oven was working fine, then our ability to use the control panel stopped. We are now unable to use any useage functions, but the clock works and the oven lights remain on.

Hi Verne,

Thanks for your email! The key telling point here is that you are no longer able to use any of the functions via the control panel, yet the clock still works. This tells me that there’s either a bad connection on the ribbon connector from the touch pad to the control board or the touch pad itself is bad. Try this trick first:

Looking up your model number, the touchpad and control board are sold as a combined unit. If the trick shown above fails to fix the problem, you’ll needs to replace the control board & touch pad assembly ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/5701M57660/1488609?modelNumber=MGR6772BDB?RCAID=24038

You can find whatever appliance part you need through the parts search box at www.fixitnow.com. No harm in buying and trying with our 365-day, no-hassle return policy, even on electrical parts that were installed!

Subscribe to our FREE, award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment ==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com and download your free report on appliance brand recommendations! Every issue is jam-packed with appliance repair tips and inside information direct from the Samurai’s fingertips to your engorged and tingling eyeballs.

James wrote:

ge gas, model jgbs20bea1wh, oven ing. lites up gas valve has 2.8 ac. oven worked fine till removed painted wall installed gas line top works fine oven stoped

Hi, James. Well, I am trying to understand your cryptic e-mail to me made even more difficult to understand by your sparse use of punctuation. But if I am interpreting it correctly it sounds like maybe you’re getting 2.8 amps of current to the igniter? You did not say what you were actually measuring, you just said “2.8 ac”, I don’t know whether that is current or voltage. “AC” stands for “alternating current” which is a common type of household electrical supply. But AC can be measured in watts (power), voltage, current (amps), usage over time (kw-hours), etc.

I will assume that you measured current since what you reported is a typical under current reading thru a gas range ignitor. Assuming that this is the case, the solution would be to replace the igniter. Here’s the part link to the ignitor you need to fix your oven ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Igniter/WB13K21/2494?modelNumber=JGBS20BEA1WH

A good igniter will draw a minimum current of at least 3.2 amps. Since yours is well below that, this would indicate that there is insufficient current flowing through the igniter to open the gas valve and let gas through to the bake burner tube.

I’m not sure about your reference to a painted wall. I will assume that you are referring to cabinetry around the oven that was changed or modified. If so, this in itself should have no effect whatsoever on the operation of the oven bake ignitor. It could however have an affect on the cooling of the oven if there were insufficient ventilation. But again, this does not affect the ignition of the bake burner.

Dennis wrote:

my neigbors fridgidaire oven caught on fire during selfcleaning, the fire totally destroy their house and my house, do you have any information about any fridgidaire range malfunctioning during self cleaning mode?

Using the self-clean feature on ANY oven or range is just asking for trouble. What happened with your neighbor’s Frigidaire range is one of the worst-case scenarios. More commonly, something just breaks in the oven: door lock motors seize up and won’t unlock the door, shoddily-made (but expensively-priced) electronic range control boards fail from being exposed to high temperature and humidity that they were never designed to withstand, even though they are included in self-cleaning ranges. Idiotic? You betcha! Welcome to the low-budget underworld of appliance manufacturing.

If you spend any time at all reading topics in the Kitchen Forum at the Appliantology Academy, you’ll see warning after warning to never ever ever use self-clean on your oven… unless you just like fixing broken stuff and buying appliance parts, which I have no problem with as long you’re buying your parts here! 8)

As to your specific question about Frigidaire ranges blowing up during self-clean, I don’t know of any repeating pattern of this problem unique to Frigidaire-built ranges. However, as I’ve said, ANY range is vulnerable to this during self-clean. Fun fact to know and tell: oven temperatures can exceed 900F during self-clean. At those temperatures, the volatilized carbon from the food soils would explode on contact if they were to mix with ambient air if, for example, the door was opened during self-clean. It is for this very reason that the door locks during this process. So I’m wondering if the door lock was disabled on this oven or if the door gasket was badly damaged or missing, allowing enough ambient air in to fuel an explosion.

If your oven is broken from using the self-clean or for some other reason, we can help you fix it in the Kitchen Forum. Just create a free account at the Appliantology Academy and start a new topic. We’ll help you whup up on it.

To learn more about your range or oven or to order parts, click here.