Dennis wrote:

my neigbors fridgidaire oven caught on fire during selfcleaning, the fire totally destroy their house and my house, do you have any information about any fridgidaire range malfunctioning during self cleaning mode?

Using the self-clean feature on ANY oven or range is just asking for trouble. What happened with your neighbor’s Frigidaire range is one of the worst-case scenarios. More commonly, something just breaks in the oven: door lock motors seize up and won’t unlock the door, shoddily-made (but expensively-priced) electronic range control boards fail from being exposed to high temperature and humidity that they were never designed to withstand, even though they are included in self-cleaning ranges. Idiotic? You betcha! Welcome to the low-budget underworld of appliance manufacturing.

If you spend any time at all reading topics in the Kitchen Forum at the Appliantology Academy, you’ll see warning after warning to never ever ever use self-clean on your oven… unless you just like fixing broken stuff and buying appliance parts, which I have no problem with as long you’re buying your parts here! 8)

As to your specific question about Frigidaire ranges blowing up during self-clean, I don’t know of any repeating pattern of this problem unique to Frigidaire-built ranges. However, as I’ve said, ANY range is vulnerable to this during self-clean. Fun fact to know and tell: oven temperatures can exceed 900F during self-clean. At those temperatures, the volatilized carbon from the food soils would explode on contact if they were to mix with ambient air if, for example, the door was opened during self-clean. It is for this very reason that the door locks during this process. So I’m wondering if the door lock was disabled on this oven or if the door gasket was badly damaged or missing, allowing enough ambient air in to fuel an explosion.

If your oven is broken from using the self-clean or for some other reason, we can help you fix it in the Kitchen Forum. Just create a free account at the Appliantology Academy and start a new topic. We’ll help you whup up on it.

To learn more about your range or oven or to order parts, click here.

Kevin wrote:

Hi, Our Kenmore stove oven has delayed ignition i.e. we turn it on and perhaps 2 or 3 minutes later there’s a loud boom as the gas ignites and a smell of gas. What should we do? Thank you Kevin

Abe wrote:

I have a tappan model 30-3989-23 stove. When I turn the oven on and set the temp I hear the top console click like normal and the display shows it as being on, but the oven does not heat up.

 

The burners and top broiler works fine. In fact if I turn on the oven after using the broiler the oven temp does show that it has gone up. But the temp slowly goes down as the oven still does not work.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

tyestick wrote:

Type of Appliance: Oven/Range/Stove

 

Brand: maytag

Model Number: MGR5750AAW571

Your Precious Words: No gas to oven. haven’t metered the ignitor as yet. Is it likely both oven ignitor and broiler ignitor are bad or will it be just the oven ignitor. 2003 maytag

Click the play button below to hear my answer:

(click image to purchase)

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man – http://fixitnow.com

The Samurai School of Appliantology – http://appliantology.org

Find and Buy Appliance Parts – http://parts.fixitnow.com

benny wrote:

i have a magic chef oven model 5898vvv, approx 19 years old, the display in the clock is out out,cannot see the clock,or timer or oven settings,has benn out for quite a while,started working again the other day for a couple of hours then went out again,not sure if its the clock assembly,any hely would be appreciated

This is a bad ERC (electronic range control, a fancy word for “clock assembly”). Slam dunk. I have personally fought this battle many times.

The ERC is still available and you can buy it here.

(click it to git it)

The part comes with a one year guarantee. If it fails for any reason during that time return it for a refund or replacement. You can also return it for a refund if it doesn’t fix the problem! How ’bout them apples?

If you need help installing it, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Forum at the Samurai School of Appliantology.

I’ve posted several troubleshooting tips in the past on Whirlpool’s finicky and temperamental Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) gas range (see this page). This one is a special case no-ignition case where you’ve ruled out the other possible causes that I’ve posted about previously and even replaced the DSI spark board in a desperate but blind attempt to solve the problem. Wellll, you just grab o’ them squishy lumps below your spine and come romp with with the Samurai on another DSI range repair adventure!

First thing, check for 120vac coming out of the ERC (the electronic range control, aka “clock,” also called an oven control board) and into the new DSI board at the Bake J1-6 or Broil J1-7 harness connectors.

If you don’t have this voltage, then you need a new oven ERC (oven control board) ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/Model-SF378LEPS1-ID-655278-Circuit-Board-Or-Timer-Parts

If you have 120vac present, then you know the ERC is calling for heat properly. On to the gas valve…

(click to enlarge)

Both coils on the gas valve have to have continuity or it will not work. The DSI control checks this before it does a function. Also note that these coils are LOW VOLTAGE DC 8 to 18 VDC.

To test, remove the wires at the gas valve and ohm from the center terminal (Common) to the upper one (Broil); then from the center terminal (Common) to the lower one (Bake). If either one is open then you need a gas valve, get it here==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Assembly/1159151?modelNumber=GS563LXSQ0

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://appliantology.org
Facebook==> http://facebook.com/fixitnowsamurai
Twitter==> http://twitter.com/fixitnowsamurai
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com
SMS==> 603-505-8460

Download these parts list and breakdown diagrams then open your Appliantology hymnal and sing along:

TO REMOVE THE HIDDEN BAKE ELEMENT:

a) Remove the right side panel (see below for the procedure).
b) Spread the insulation away from the front of the hidden bake element.
c) Disconnect the two wire connectors from the hidden bake element terminals.
d) Remove the element shield screw from the right end of the shield.
e) Pull the hidden bake element and its shield to the right and unhook the left and right tabs.
f) Remove the hidden bake element from the unit, and place it on a work surface.
g) Remove the two bracket screws, and remove the shield from the element.

REMOVING A SIDE PANEL

1. Unplug range or disconnect power.
2. Pull the range away from the wall so that you can access the rear of the unit.
3. Remove the oven door and set it aside (see below for the procedure).
4. Pull the storage drawer out as far as it will go.
5. Remove the two rear screws from the side panel
6. From the rear of the unit, reach inside and remove the screw from the bottom of the side panel.
7. Slide the side panel forward and unhook the front edge, then tilt the top of the side panel out,
and lift the panel from the unit.

NOTE: When reinstalling the side panel, set the bottom edge on the rail,
hook the front edge at the top and bottom, and install the two rear screws;
then install the bottom screw from inside the rear of the unit.

REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR

1. To remove the oven door, open the door to its first stop.
2. Grasp the sides of the door, lift it slightly, and pull the door forward
until the hinge hangers are partially out of the slots in the chassis.
Do not completely remove the hinge hangers from the slots,
since there will be spring tension on them.

3. Reposition the angle of the door to its vertical position to remove the spring tension
on the hinge hangers, then pull the hangers the rest of the way out of the chassis slots.

To reinstall the oven door:

1. Grasp the sides of the door and insert the hinge hangers into the hinge slots.
Lift the door slightly and push in at the bottom until the hangers are fully installed in the unit.

NOTE: If the hinge hangers are not seated properly, the door will not close tightly and may be off-center.
To seat the hinge hangers, keep the door vertical, then lift it slightly, and push in on the bottom
until the hangers are fully seated.

2. Open and close the oven door to make sure that it operates and seals properly.

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

The Samurai Family of Appliance Repair Websites

Parts==> http://parts.fixitnow.com
Forums==> http://applianceguru.com
Facebook==> http://facebook.fixitnow.com
Twitter==> http://twitter.fixitnow.com
Newsletter==> http://newsletter.fixitnow.com

This little diagram explains the operation of the motorized door lock in your GE range. A great troubleshooting aid for those troubling times such as when the oven door won’t open and dinner is stuck inside. Download it now and share with all your friends. Fun for the whole family!

(click to enlarge)

To learn more about your range/stove/oven, or to order parts, click here.