Got you one of them fancy Dacor ERD ranges with an F1 error code? Or maybe some other type of problem? Well, urine luck, budrow, ‘cuz Dacor is one of the enlightened manufacturers who makes all their service information freely available to everyone on the Web! And, special bonus, Dacor products are made ratcheer in Ameedica. Lots of repair goodies for the Dacor ERD36 range are linked in the Scribd doc below:

Yessir, the Samurai likes Dacor. Yeah, Dacor products are high-end and sell for big bucks. But we professional appliantologists like appliances we can fix. And you can’t fix broken appliances if the manufacturer restricts access to their service information to either the big service companies, like Sears and A&E (owned by Sears), or to independent servicers who’ve signed a sucker’s contract with the manufacturer saying that they’ll do their warranty work for slave’s wages; GE and Viking are the worst offenders in this regard. So, if you’re wantin’ high-dollah, high-end appliances for your kitchen, Dacor is the brand to go with.

Richard the Merkurmaniac wrote:

I have discovered the secret plans to GE latest electric oven that even now, is plotting the next appliance revolt in my house. Said device is a JT915SFSS. It may have been sent from the future to drive me insane with its warnings of F9 and locking me out of my own oven. Here is the schematic that I found within its metallic bowels. You can use them to help you defeat future models of this recent soldier in the Electric General’s army.

Domo for your contribution to this emporium of appliantological wisdom, Richard! Other victims of this insolent range can download the tech sheet for this range here.

An infinite switch is what “they” call the switch that’s attached to the knob you use to turn on the stove burner. It’s called “infinite” because you can set the heat from low to high and everywhere in between, so it’s (theoretically) infinitely adjustable as opposed to the “Low-Medium-High” switches that have only three heat settings.

A typical condition you’ll see when an infinite switch goes bad is that the surface element won’t heat or it will just go to high heat no matter what the setting on the switch.

Depending on your appliance type/model, access the infinite switch using one of the following methods:

• For most standard models, remove the back panel.
• On models with front-mounted controls, the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws and tilt the control panel. They’s a whole mess o’ wires in there so be careful not to let the wires pull out from the components.
• For models with a removable backsplash, lift the backsplash, rest it on the cooktop and remove the screws to access the components.
• If you are working on an eye-level range, remove the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be located under the front of the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, tilt the control panel towards you.
• On some models, you have to remove the rear panel and front panel before you can get to work.
• If the front control panel is glass, remove the screws holding the glass-retaining trim.

If you’re unfamiliar with your range, come ye and review the interactive appliance breakdown diagrams to hepya visualize your repair experience.

Danger, Will Robinson! Before you even turn the first screw to begin disassembly, you gotsta kill power to the appliance. You can do this by turning off the circuit breaker or pulling the fuses at the fuse box or by simply pulling the plug. Use your light stick to make doubly-woubly sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can fry yo ace, so make sure that sucker is dead before going in.

Awwite, after you’ve killed power to the range or cooktop, we’re ready to break open a can o’ whupass. So, let’s begin…

Legend:
L1 – Line 1 – 110 volts
L2 – Line 2 – 110 volts
P – Pilot Light – 110 volts
H1 – Heater 1 – 110 volts
H2 – Heater 2 – 110 volts

Checking the Infinite Switch:

Set meter to the Rx1 scale, zero your meter, and check the switch with wires unhooked. (Mark the wires before you remove them.) For help using an ohm meter to check resistance and/or continuity, see this page.

With the infinite switch turned to the on position you should read…

• L1 to P ==> Continuity
• L1 to H1 ==> Continuity
• L2 to H2 ==> Continuity

Now, with the switch turned to the off position, you should read…

• No continuity from L1 to P
• No continuity from L1 to H1
• No continuity from L2 to H2

If you get something different than what’s listed above, you got yerself a bad switch! Now you’re ready to replace it. Remove the infinite switch by removing the screws or nuts that hold it in place and install a new infinite switch by following the disassembly instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals.

If you need more help, come start a new topic in the Kitchen Appliance Repair forum.