So you stuff a load of stinky skivvies in your Maytag Neptune washer, get it going and head over to your computer so you can check out the latest cool videos on the Samurai’s YouTube channel. You watch the videos– you laugh, you cry, they become a part of you and they’ve given your life new purpose and meaning that you never even dreamed was possible. Your newfound special purpose informs you to go check on the skivvies in the washer.

You find the washer full of water, stopped in mid-cycle and flashing some kind of weird code, like French, or something. Suddenly, you become aware of another pair of skivvies that needs to go in the washer.

First thing to do is stop and congratulate yourself for coming to the right website. Next, unclench them glutes and swallow that bile burning the back of your throat’cuz ol’ Samurai’s gonna hepya whup up on that ornery washer. Here’s the scoop:

El Problemo:

Current models will stop and flash the error code, “LR” in the display. If you have a model with an LCD display, it’ll show the error message, “Locked Rotor.” Older models won’t show a code, they’ll just stop mid-cycle or won’t re-start.

Model Numbers Affected:

MAH14PDAAL, MAH14PDAAQ, MAH14PDAAW, MAH14PDABL, MAH14PDABW, MAH14PDAEW, MAH14PDAGW, MAH14PDBAW, MAH14PDBEW, MAH14PDBGW, MAH14PDCBQ, MAH14PDCBW, MAH14PDDWW, MAH14PDSAW, MAH14PNAEW, MAH14PNAGW, MAH14PNAWW, MAH14PNBAW, MAH14PNBEW, MAH14PNBGW, MAH14PNSAW, MAH14PRAWW, MAH14PSAAW, MAH14PSAGW, MAH20PDA3W, MAH20PDAWQ, MAH20PDAWW, MAH20PDCXQ, MAH20PDCXW, MAH20PNAWW, MAH20PRAWW, MAH20PRDWW, MAH20PSAWW, MAH21PDA3W, MAH21PDAGW, MAH21PDAWQ, MAH21PDAWW, MAH21PDCXQ, MAH21PDCXW, MAH21PDD3W, MAH21PDDGW, MAH21PDDWQ, MAH21PDDWW, MAH21PDDXW, MAH21PNAGW, MAH21PNAWW, MAH21PNDGW, MAH21PNDWW, MAH21PRAWQ, MAH21PRAWW, MAH21PSAWW, MAH3000AAW, MAH3000AEW, MAH3000AGW, MAH3000AKW, MAH3000AWA, MAH3000AWQ, MAH3000AWW, MAH3000BGW, MAH4000AWQ, MAH4000AWW, MAH4000BWQ, MAH4000BWW, MAH5500AWW, MAH5500BWQ, MAH5500BWW, MAH55FLBWQ, MAH55FLBWW, MAH6500AWQ, MAH6500AWW, MAH7500AWQ, MAH7500AWW, MAH7550AAW, MAH7550AGW, MLE19PDAGW, MLE19PDAYW, MLE19PDAZW, MLE19PDCZQ, MLE19PDCZW, MLE19PNAUW, MLE19PNAYW, MLE19PRAYW, MLE19PRAZW, MLE2000AYW, MLE2000AZW, MLG19PDAEW, MLG19PDAGW, MLG19PDAWW, MLG19PDAXW, MLG19PDBGW, MLG19PDCXQ, MLG19PDCXW, MLG19PDSAW, MLG19PNAWW, MLG19PRAWW, MLG19PRAXW, MLG2000AWW, MLG2000AXW, MLG23MNAWW

What’s Going On?

There’s a bad connection in the neutral wire (the white one) that runs from the power cord to the Motor Control Board. This neutral wire is routed across the water inlet solenoid valve via a terminal connection on its way to the Motor Control Board where it ends in another terminal connection. The problem is basically a crappy crimping job anywhere along this neutral wire’s path from the power cord, through the water inlet valves, and finally ending at the Motor Control Board.

Whaddya Gotta Do?

Start at the point where the power cord wire enters the washer and locate the neutral (white) wire. Follow it throughout the machine– this is the fine art of wire chasing. Tug on each terminal of the white wire wherever it’s connected at a terminal or wire harness, such as the water valve solenoid, and make sure that the wire is in there goodntight. If it comes out in your hand when you tug on it then– ding-ding-ding!– we have a winner. You’ll need to apply some wire-working skills and get that wire securely re-connected. That’s beyond the scope of this article but we can hepya with that in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums.

Maytag has since changed this wire so that it by-passes the water solenoid valves and goes across the pump only, reducing the number of connections.

This little pearl of appliantological wisdom applies to Maytag’s later model, “new and improved” Neptune front load washers. They have model numbers like MAH6700AW*, MAH8700AW*, MAH9700AW*, MAL1800AX* (the “*” is a wild card character, like in a Google search, not part of the model number).

I like this machine. It’s German-built and you can almost tear the whole thing down with a #10 torx bit. Now, Whirlpool sells another front loader that also bears the name “Duet,” it’s the Duet Sport. The Sport is made in Mexico and, while it’s not a bad machine, it’s just not at the same level as its German big brother.

Here’s some basic anatomy and component locations:

(click for larger view)

And here’s a handy list of commonly replaced parts on this machine. For each component, I’ve also included some things that may indicate that part is bad. Notice the emphasis on the word, “may.” These are meant to point you in the right direction but you should still confirm the part is bad.

Awwite, grab ‘hold of those two squishy lumps at the base of your spine and let’s do the Two-Step Tango on this bad boy:

Step 1: Buy the new transmission

Step 2: Watch this instructive video

Nuff said!

Q: Undocumented error code? Does that mean it’s illegal?

A: No, but you’ll wish it was.

This refers to the Frigidaire Affinity front loading washers, example model number LTF2940EE0. The E6E error code that you may see on the display isn’t listed in the service manual or the tech sheet, like the one below:

Frigidaire LTF2940ES1 Tech Sheet

So, what does this mean? He IS the Kwisatz Haderach! Oops, sorry– had a Dune flashback, must be too much spicy food.

*Buuuuurrrp!* OK, I feel better now. Thanks for your concern. I’m feelin’ the love, yo.

One note on tech sheets before I get back into the nittiest of grittiest on this repair. Tech sheets are really handy things to have when you’re troubleshooting and indispensable for over-electronified appliances that flash weird codes and make space-age beeping noises. It has the error code listings, key sequence for entering service/diagnostic mode, schematics, and lots of other fixit goodies. I hate it when I’m on a service call and go to get the tech sheet only to find that some sleazeball had “borrowed” it on a previous service call. There’s a special place in Hell for parts changing monkeys who do this and you know who you are!

If you’ll be using the schematic or wiring diagram for troubleshooting, you should always use the specific tech sheet supplied with your washer, located behind the bottom kickplate. That’s because the wiring will vary slightly (just enough!) depending on the features built into the specific model you’re working on. The manufacturers will even say that in the service manual, which is intended to cover a family of models.

OK, OK, enough yada-yada. So, what’s the deal with the undocumented E6E error code in these machines? Ain’t but one thang, Hoss: bad interface control board. Come git you one:

What, you don’t believe me? Do you mock me, sir? Do YOU mock ME? OK, how ’bout this: if you buy the board here and replace it and that doesn’t fix your washer, you can return it for a full refund within 30 days, no hassles, no questions. Yeah, uh huh, who’s yer Daddy?

If you have an Asko W640 or W660 front loader that’s acting flakey, one of the first things you’ll want to do is put it into diagnostic mode. This will let you test various functions such as the drain pump and drive motor and other sensors and functions in the machine. You won’t find this in your owner’s manual though they really should include it. What possible harm could it do? But the Samurai’s gotcha covered. Go git ’em!

Asko W640 and W660 Service Test

Here, in this post, I present to you, my beloved Grasshoppers, a complete repair reference library for the Frigidaire-built, front-loading washer, also sold under the Kenwhore label with the 417 model number prefix. This is for Frigidaire’s “Affinity” line. Consider it a Paschal gift. Христос воскресе!

Owner’s Guide

Wiring Diagram

Installation Instructions

Parts Manual

Replacement Parts

Operating Instructions

Service Manual

Yeah, wash enough tennis shoes, dog beds, and iron jock straps in your front loader and, sooner or later, you’re gonna break one o’ them drum vanes. The fix is easy as pie… once you know the secret handshake. This page will help you do that in the Frigidaire-built front loaders, which includes Kenmore’s with a model number prefix of 417. And you can get the replacement drum vane ratcheer.

Sooner or later, you’re gonna need to get into the guts of your Maytag Atlantis or Performa washer to do stuff like replace the pump, adjust the motor tension, and replace the transmission, among the more common repairs on these beasts. One question that comes up frequently in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums is, “How do I get inside this thing.” Piece of pie, tovarish! Behold:

First, pop the top:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Using a stiff putty knife, press the locking clip in the seam between the “hood” and front panel, as shown below. There’s a clip on each side. Raise the top panel up and out of the way. You may want to tape the the lid to the top panel so it doesn’t slam into the wall, thus evoking explicit language.

Now you’ll see two screws, one on each side. Remove ’em and pull the top of the front panel out toward you. Then just lift the panel off the bottom hinges and there you be.

Ain’t nuttin’ to it. Now whup up on that bad boy!