Hearing a squeaky sound in your Maytag washer? This forum topic has a sound clip you can listen to and compare with what you’re hearing and explains a common cause and cure. See also this article for more information on noises in the Maytag Performa and Atlantis washers.

One of the Master Appliantologists at the repair forum posted this handy tip for fixing this little annoyance.

I have an ancient GE Filter-Flo washer that just died. Since GE discontinued the Filter-Flo system of lint trapping over a decade ago, what new washer can I purchase that does as good a job as the Filter-Flo at keeping lint off my clothes??? Thanks. – Nunya

The Staber washer is a horizontal axis washer (commonly referred to as “front-loaders”) but with the unique feature of loading from top. It has all the advantages that come with horizontal axis washers: uses much less washer and electricity, no inefficient, clunky transmission, needs less detergent, and clothes last longer because they’re not whipped back and forth by an agitator. You can read more about the Staber here.

Recently, one of my site users bought a Staber and I asked him if he would share his honest first impression of the machine. He was gracious enough to write the following excellent report on his first impression upon receiving, unpacking, installing, and running his new Staber. If you’re considering buying a Staber, this report is required reading:

John wrote:

It came nicely packed, but after opening it, my neighbor said, ‘is it used?’. There were greasy fingerprints, dust, etc. Since I know you are into the Apple packaging thing, you can unnerstan what I’m talkin’ ’bout. It didn’t bother me much. I read that they test each unit, etc. which is comforting. I also would give the ‘fit and finish’ a B-. I like the overall look of the machine, but when you look closely, the sheet metal does not match up to the plastic top very well. Again, not a big deal to me.

I installed new filter washers because the old ones had started to fall apart. I tried to scrape the remnants out of the valve before hooking things up. I really should replace the valves, but was very excited to hook things up and blew it off.

With my wife’s help, we had it leveled on our uneven, poured-concrete floor in about 15 mins. The manual indicated that each adjustable foot also had a locknut, which it did not (design change?). Also, it stated that we should install the rubber feet onto the metal feet, but they were already on…

Following their advice to wash our clothes sans detergent a couple of times because of residual soap residue due to our old, ineffective washer, we threw a colors load in to use both cold and hot water on a warm cycle. I was amazed at how quickly it started to agitate due to the short time needed to add water. I’m not sure I get Staber’s logic when they state that it is gentler than traditional washers yet cleans better. Do they mean that it is tumbling rather than tugging on the clothes?

Anyway, it sounded like it was really agitating things nicely. Could be a little quieter, but not bad. I’m glad it isn’t near our bedrooms, tho. I made sure to be in the room when the spin started. I was surprised by the long duration of the spin compared to traditional washers, but their slower spin speed (750 rpm?) probably explains this. It does, as others have noted, sound like a plane taking off. I
didn’t time the dryer duration for this load, but the clothes did come out ‘feeling’ dryer than our old 10 Y.O. maytag POS’s spin.

I guess I’ll reserve judgement on cleaning ability until I wash one of our heavily soiled, kid’s clothes loads with detergent. Some of their pant’s knees and socks have mud stains that are still obvious after a dozen washings in the maytag.

So, I guess I’d say, ‘So far, so good’ at this point. I’m more hopeful now that I’ve interacted with it a little. I felt like we took a gamble buying it without actually being able to inspect it like one could in a bricks and mortar. A suggestion: why not use quicktime to create an image of one which you can inspect online?

Thanks again,

John

Good suggestion on the movie! I’ll find one and add it to this post as an addendum. Also, if John has any followup reports on washability and usage issues, I’ll post those here as well. Or John can post it as a follow-up comment. 😉

UPDATE 12/13/2005: Here, now, by popular demand is the long-awaited Staber video. Be forewarned: it’s a 139 mb mpg file, could take a couple minutes to download on broadband, couple more if you’re on dial-up connection.

UPDATE 12/22/2005: I’m getting killed on bandwidth so the link in the previous update no longer works. But, never fear: The Samurai has come up with a mo’ bettah solution. If you want the video, just email me and I’ll send you the access link: samurai AT Fixitnow.com.

Michael wrote:

I have a whirlpool washer. I replaced the transmission with shaft about six months ago. It was working fine.

The agiator goes back and forth but the top agiator that is suppose to turn the cloths down in the tub is not working. I removed the softner cup and o ring lid to check if the nut was tight inside. It was. Any suggestions.  system is about 10 years old. Also replaced the plastic coupler and rubbers.

regards

M. Hudson

If the lower half of the agitator is doing it’s back and forth thing but the upper half ain’t, then you need to replace the agitator dogs (or “dawgs” as they say at my alma mater, the University of Georgia).

Sue wrote:

We saw what you said about a Leak from a Frigidaire (Kenmore 417.xxxxx) Front Loading Washer. It appears the door is holding water. There is a slow trickle of water leaking out. Would this more likely be the door seal boot?

THANK YOU!!!!

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In vexing times like these, I turn my furrowed brow to Samurai’s 12 Laws of Appliance Repair. In accordance with the 7th Law, “All leaks are visual.” To aid your visualizations, click the washer breakdown diagram shown here for an interactive tour of the very bowels of your washer. Go ahead, I’ll wait …

Back so soon? Ok, with that crash course in washer anatomy, let’s light this candle with the simple stuff, first.

We’ll start behind the washer… oh, cut it out! … where the two water fill hoses connect. They’ll connect from the shutoff valves at the wall to the water inlet valve on the back of the washer. Lay some heavy-powered eyeball action, aided by the brilliant illumination from the halogen search beam you’re using, on both ends of those fill hoses looking for any sign of water. And, by the way, if your fill hoses look like this, well, you and ol’ Brother Noah ’bout to have something in common… ‘cept he had forewarning; but now you do, too!

Awwite, ever-thang looks good with the fill hoses, so now we pop that front kick plate, like ahso. We’re looking for evidence of leaking from either the tub boot or from the tub gasket. Here’s a thought question: since the tub boot is right up front, and if it were leaking, where would we see signs of leaking? Ooo, you’re good! If your tub boot is leaking, this excerpt from the service manual should hepya replace it.

Ok, here’s a tougher one: given that the tub gasket goes all the way around the tub, where would you expect its characteristic leak pattern to be? That’s a little less obvious, but this post explains what to look for and a minimally-invasive procedure that may fix it.

Finally, I have also seen, on rare occasions, where a bra wire pierced the pump suction boot and created a leak.

Smile! It’s a Friggidaire! (yes, I meant to spell it that way)

A handy compilation of water inlet valve replacement procedures from our friends at RepairClinic. Tear ’em up, Hoss!

Maytag, Top Loader
• Remove the screw holding the inlet valve mounting plate to the washer.
• Remove the two screws holding the valve to the mounting plate.
• Lift the plate up slightly and pull it out of the washer.
• Label the wires and remove them.
• Disconnect the water feed tube from the valve.
• Install the new valve.
• Flush out the water fill hoses.
• Reassemble in reverse.
• Turn on the water supply valves.
• Check for and correct any leaks.
• Restore power and test operation.

Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Kenmore, Roper, Estate, after 1985
• The valve will be mounted to the back of the washer with two screws. However, you must remove the valve from inside the washing machine, and this requires you remove the entire washer cabinet, which consists of the top, front and sides.
• Remove the two screws in the lower corners of the control panel.
• Lift the control panel up high enough so it stays up and back.
• Disconnect the wire harness connector.
• Using a flathead screwdriver, snap out the two gold-colored spring clips at the top of the cabinet on the left and right sides.
• The cabinet will now lift up at the back. Pull the cabinet up 10-12 inches and then slide it forward 2 inches.
• Remove the cabinet completely and set it aside.
• The valve will be on the right side of the washer at the back. It’s the device to which the water fill hoses are attached.
• Label the wires from the valve and remove them.
• Remove the water feed tube(s) from the valve.
• Remove the screws holding the valve to the back panel.
• Install the new valve in the reverse order.
• Reinstall the cabinet. (Note: As you follow this procedure, do not force the cabinet in any way. When done properly, the cabinet will go back together very smoothly.) First, tilt the cabinet toward you 10-12 inches while you “walk� the cabinet back onto the lower frame of the washer. (This will be easier if you have the washer lid open so you can see inside the cabinet at the same time.) The front edge of the cabinet slides underneath the base frame, and the sides of the cabinet rest on top of the base frame.
• When the cabinet is resting on the frame squarely, check to be sure the back of the washer is aligned with the cabinet. There are two plastic strips attached to the back of the washer that must line up with the sides of the cabinet as you set the cabinet down.
• Reinstall the two spring clips at the top.
• Reattach the wire harness connector.
• Rotate the control panel back down and reinstall the two screws.
• Flush out the water fill hoses.
• Reattach the water lines.
• Turn on the water.
• Check for and correct any leaks.
• Restore power and test.

GE, Hotpoint, (valve on middle right side of washer)
• The water inlet valve is attached to a metal plate, which is attached to the washer.
Remove the screws holding the metal plate to the washer.
• Remove the screws holding the inlet valve to the metal plate.
• Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
• Remove the water feed tube from the valve.
• Install the new valve.
• Flush out the water fill hoses.
• Reassemble in reverse.
• Turn on the water supply valves.
• Check for and correct any leaks.
• Restore power and test operation.

GE, Hotpoint, (valve inside upper control panel)
• Open the main control panel by removing two screws.
• Remove the two screws holding the valve down.
• Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
• Disconnect the water feed tube.
• Install the new valve.
• Flush out the water fill hoses.
• Reassemble in reverse.
• Turn on the water supply valves.
• Check for and correct any leaks.
• Restore power and test operation.

Frigidaire, Top Loader – Valve Inside Upper Control Panel
• Open the main control panel by removing two screws.
• Remove the two screws holding the valve down.
• Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
• Disconnect the water feed tube.
• Note: The new water inlet valve mounting screw holes may not be threaded. That is because the screws that hold the valve in place are self-threading. It may be easier for you to twist the old screws into the valve while the valve is out, rather than wait until it is in place. Then, remove the screws from the valve for installation.
• Reinstall the new valve in the reverse order.
• Flush out the water fill hoses.
• Reinstall the fill hoses in the proper order.
• Turn on the water supply valves.
• Check for and correct any leaks.
• Restore power and test operation.

Frigidaire, Top Loader, Valve in Main Body of Washer (not in control panel)
• Use a putty knife to press in the two spring clips at the front of the washer top near the sides. (You may need a flashlight to see the clips.) While you’re pressing in on the clip, lift up on the top, and will lift up like the hood of a car. Be sure to support the lid properly so it doesn’t fall backward or forward.
• The valve will be to your left behind the washing machine tub.
• Remove the two screws, which are on the back of the washer, holding the valve.
• From the inside of the washer, carefully pull the valve up toward the top with the wires and feed tube still attached.
• Label the wires to the valve and remove them.
• Remove the water feed tube from the valve.
• Note: The new water inlet valve mounting screw holes may not be threaded. That is because the screws that hold the valve in place are self-threading. It may be easier for you to twist the old screws into the valve while the valve is out, rather than wait until it is in place. Then, remove the screws from the valve for installation.
• Reinstall the new valve in the reverse order.
• Flush out the water fill hoses.
• Reinstall the fill hoses in the proper order.
• Turn on the water supply valves.
• Check for and correct any leaks.
• Restore power and test operation.

Others:
If you didn’t see your brand and model above, and you’re sure you need to replace your water inlet valve, come see us in the Samurai Appliance Repair Forums. Fix ya up. Whatever.

1) If the machine has a dryer stacked on top of it or is positioned in such a way that it would be too much bother to move, just leave it where it is. However, if it is possible, it would be easier to do this job if the machine could be leaned. If leaning it back is not possible, then a 6 or 8 inch block of wood will be handy to use to wedge between the front panel and the tub to hold the tub back out of the way.

2) The boot is attached to a lip around the perimeter of the opening in the front panel and is glued on in spots about three inches apart, all the way around. Use a razor blade as shown in illustration #1 to carefully slice the glued spots on the boot away from the front panel.

3) Once the boot is loose from the front panel, push it into the opening of the tub and out of the way as shown in illustration #2. At this point, if the machine is not leaning back, take your block of wood and while pushing back on the tub through the opening, wedge the block between the front panel and the tub about ten inches to the bottom – right of the opening. This will give you more space to work with the boot.

4) Notice that the boot is still attached to the duct that is located just inside the front panel at the upper left corner from the opening. This is where the water, soap, bleach and fabric softener enter the tub. To remove (and later on, reattach) the clamp holding this in place on the end of the duct you will have to make yourself a tool from a three inch piece of 3/8 inch soft copper tubing. In illustration #3 you will see that the end of the tube is flattened somewhat so that it can be slipped over the twisted ends of the clamp as shown in illustration #4. Twist the tube counterclockwise to slip the clamp and set both the tool and the wire clamp aside. Pull the boot free from the duct.

5) Using both hands, grab onto the boot at the top of the opening to the tub and pull downward and toward you with slow steady pressure. As the boot is pulled free from the outer lip of the tub (at the top), the coiled spring that holds the boot from the groove behind the lip around the opening to the front shell will become visible. You can either continue pulling on the boot until it comes off or you can hook the spring (with a piece of coat hanger fashioned into a hook) and pull it off and then pull the boot off separately.

6) Once the boot is off, examine the lip that extends around the entire perimeter of the front opening of the front shell of the tub (the front shell and the rear shell are so named because when bolted together, form the outer tub that surrounds the inner tub). The boot has a lip that will have to be folded into the groove behind the lip on the front shell. To start this, examine the new boot and locate the groove in front of the lip that corresponds to the similar lip and tab on the tub shell. It will make this job a lot easier if you can get some liquid dishwashing soap from the consumer, and sparingly lubricate this groove on the boot to make it easier to slip onto the lip of the shell (see illustration #5). No soap is preferable to too much soap. Have a cloth handy to wipe the soap from your fingers.

7) Once the groove in the boot is lubed with soap, locate the arrow as shown in illustration #6 that is located on the top of the boot (located to the right of the extrusion that slips over the duct). This arrow must point up when the boot is installed.

8) With the boot in one hand and the other hand spreading the lip and groove (on the boot near the arrow), force the lip into the groove behind the lip at the top of the opening on the tub shell (see illustration #7).

9) With one hand holding the boot so it does not slip off, use the other hand to continue spreading the lip and groove of the boot further to the right. In this way, you continue this action 360 degrees around until the boot is mounted onto the front shell ( illustration #8). Your fingers will take a beating while you do this and may become quite tired. Do not give up. Just pop a cold one (without letting go of the boot) and keep at it. Rest one hand at a time if needed. Whatever you do, do not remove both hands until the boot is on (unless you want it to fall off and then you get to start all over with it).

10) Now is the time to put the spring back on. Included in the BOOT KIT is a set of three spacers (an example of which is shown in illustration #9). These spacers are to be used to hold the spring in place in the groove on the outside perimeter of the boot. As it will take both hands to stretch this spring into place, these spacers will prevent the spring from popping out when you let go of it to use both hands to stretch it further around the boot. Begin by pushing the spring down into the groove just forward from where the boot contacts the front shell at about the 12 o’clock position. While holding it in place with one hand, use the other to tightly wedge the spacer above it, between the spring (in its groove) and the weight ring above it as shown in illustration #10.

11) Working your way to the right, push the spring down into the groove. When you have placed the spring about 90 degrees around the opening from the first spacer, the spring will begin to get tight. Push in another spacer at that point (making sure to keep checking the first spacer, if it pops out – the spring will pop out).

12) Continue working your way around (while checking both spacers, you don’t want them to slip out) until you reach 180 degrees from the first spacer. Install the third spacer.

13) The spring will be extremely tight now as shown in illustration # 11. Once you have gone more than half way around, the spring will be easier to roll into the rest of the groove (so long as all three spacers are holding tight). When you have the spring in place, make sure to remove the three spacers before proceeding to step # 14.

14) Replace the boot extrusion back onto the duct and pull it up over the ridge on the duct near the top of the opening. Reinstall the clamp in such a way that the clamp sits between the ridges on the extrusion and above the ridge on the duct. Snap the clamp closed with the copper tubing tool that you used previously.

15) Before attaching the new boot to the front panel, clean the surface of the front panel with alcohol or household cleaner. Also clean the flat surface of the new boot that will be contacting the front panel. This step is needed to remove the mold release material used in the manufacturing process and will allow the adhesive to stick.

16) Remount the boot onto the front panel as shown in illustration #13, making sure that the boot is not wrinkled. If large wrinkles exist, they may pool water in the boot and dribble onto the floor when the door is opened. If this is the case, pull it loose from the front panel and remount it slightly more clockwise or counter clockwise as needed.

17) Using the adhesive supplied in the kit, sparingly apply dots of glue under the edge of the boot as shown in illustration #14. Spot glue at the 12 o’clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o’clock positions around the opening. Caution: you will need to wait a couple of hours before using the washer to allow the adhesive enough time to dry.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.

Went on a service call the other day for a refrigerator. And, in one of those, “While you’re here…” things, I ended up checking out the washer and dryer. Something I always, always check when working on a washer are the fill hoses. The cheap, stamped-brass fittings on the black rubber fill hoses were badly rusted and, in that weakened condition, were more prone to snap or split, causing a huge flood in this million-dollar lake house.

So I pulled those hoses off… actually, the fittings were so badly rusted that they no longer rotated so I had to cut ’em off with the big serrated-edge knife in my Leatherman Wave that I keep on my belt when I’m running service calls. Then I installed a beautiful, brand-new pair of stainless-steel braided fill hoses with stainless steel fittings. The only additional charge was for the retail price of the new hoses. Cheapest flood insurance you can buy!

Recommended Reading: Three Easy Steps to Total Washing Machine Flood Prevention

Doctor K wrote:

Your holiness,

washing machine question. (KitchenAid model#622874) I suspect the water inlet valve is faulty since water is dripping when the machine is “off”.

Where is the valve located? How do I access to replace?

With all do admiration,

Michael

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Message sent from IP: 67.117.147.242

Yep, sounds like your water inlet valve can’t quite pinch it off anymore. The valve is mounted to the washer’s rear bulkhead (that’s Navy talk for “wall” or “panel” — don’t let it throw you), as seen here to the right.

Hey, don’t run off and start taking off the back panel like a kid opening a Christmas present– take a breath and read this short missive on how to disassemble your washer. You’ll be glad you did.

As you probably suspected, the valve can no longer be trusted to control 40 to 60 psi of water pressure every day, all day long; you have to replace the valve. And, if you purchase the new valve here within the next five minutes, I’ll confer a special blessing upon you.

Nolo contendere, e pluribus unum, my child.

Doc wrote:

How do I open a Kenmore Washer
Model# 110.28932790

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This is a Whirlpool-built direct drive washer. It opens up a little differently from what you might expect. Many people, thinking the top panel pops up, begin ruthlessly prying on the seam between the top and front panel and only end up with a disfigured washer. I’ve seen more adventurous types actually remove the entire back panel, getting them no closer to what they were trying for. Let the Samurai enlighten you.

The entire cabinet removal procedure is illustrated in this diagram. Even though the procedure is very straight forward, a couple of fine points are worth mentioning:

• Some Kenmore-branded versions of this washer use plastic endcaps to cover the console screws. Just remove the console end caps and the console retaining screws are right there. This technique is illustrated in this photo.
• Once you’ve removed the console screws, flip the entire control console up and back to reveal the cabinet retaining braces, shown here.
• After you pull the cabinet back and away from the washer, here’s an illustrated anatomy of your naked washing machine. The lid switch is screwed to the inside of the cabinet top panel and is easily accessible with the cabinet removed.
• Replacing the cabinet is usually very straight forward but sometimes little snags can arise. Some helpful hints for replacing the cabinet are explained here.

To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here.